/wip/

Really like the gloves, maybe have some blood on the snow? Is there blood coming out of the neck of the head?

I'm not familiar with the character, but I notice that a lot of protocol droids like this, have 1 or 2 mismatched colored parts. Like C-3P0's leg is actually silver not gold. You could maybe have this droid have some mismatched panels. Also try cleaning up the base a bit. Notice how the wires that he's standing on, extend passed the base it's own..gives it a sort of sloppy look. But to me, these are mere nit picks. The model and the lighting, and pose are superb...good job.

it didn't matte enough, sadly. i do a gloss followed by a matte spray to mimic satin, but not a lot of luck this round. i'm a little sad with the blood on the sword, i didn't want to overdo it because it is supposed to be from cutting the zombie's head off.

there is blood on the neck, but not the ground. i'll do that under both the blade and head.

working on some dwarves and a squad filler/ treasure token

not bad at all. You did those ugly models justice.

...

what happened to the standard on the treasure token?

Working on Storm of Sigmar box. These 5 are getting there. Almost done building the Khorne and will start painting next week. Then I can begin learning the game.

those look really cool. I always wanted to grab some stuff from Victoria just to paint up for fun.
great paint job on those. what are you going to do with the bases?

Not bad at all. They just need some more layers to make the gold pop and a bit more color on the body

Test model for some crypt flayers

crypt horrors*

What he said. Flayers are the ones with wings

got a bit of texture paint on it and didnt notice
gonna just edge them in dawnstone.
thanks!

Finished my board for armies on parade. First time doing a board/AOP. I regret that I do not have any scenery this year, maybe next year. I'm not really that happy with it, I know I won't win but I dont want to embarrass myself, snow is more difficult on a large open surface than I realized.

holy shit masking fluid is awesome

(its blu tac'd together until I paint it)

Forgot to mention. Red or white for the cape? I'm thinking white would look good with the helmet, but red would look good for a more roman aesthetic

Looks good, but you should watch Duncans tutorial for making blood effects on blades, as another user has already pointed out, it just doesn't look convincing as it stands now.

Red for cape, works good with blue.

What is masking fluid?

I actually like it. Got a painting feel to it

What army will be displayed on it?

Space wolves- Eshin Grey, not baby blue.

You paint it over what you don't want to get paint on, paint the rest of the model and then peel it off again.

It's like masking tape, but you can paint it on, rather than having to cut it into shape.

What!? That's fucking life changing

Don't leave it on too long though, it gets crumbly if you do, but otherwise it's amazing stuff.

Making passable progress, about 2-3 per weekend, realized I work best in the morning.

Sounds great for painting with shades, how long is too long though?

What brand you use, the. One I tried was awful.

holy shit i cant believe I never heard of this shit. What brand do I get? Im gonna get some on amazon right the fuck now

Anyone have any good basing ideas for Dreadnoughts?

...

Second one

And this is the last. Sorry for spamming up the thread with my nought, I was lazy to PS them into one image. The base is the standard venerable base, turned into a little stream crossing using wet blending, some rocks and PVA.

Thanks, that gave me a good idea. Slightly related, but the Dreadnought connects to the torso on a single ball joint correct? am going to buy mine second hand and the previous owner put the legs on backwards with plastic cement, so I'm thinking I'll need to saw it and spin it around?

Yes, but it might be a bit of a pain to saw. If you're lucky then the conection between the ball and socket will be weak and you'll be able to just snap it off, but if you're not then you'll have a bad time of it. There's nowhere in that area where the plastic is especially thin.

More than a day or two. It stays soft and flexible for a good while.

When I looked at it the entire thing was as solid as a rock, so I pray that joint is the weakest.

I personally use Molotow GRAFX Liquid Mask pens (Molotov is an art brand, they also sell acrylic paint pens and such). I also have the Vallejo version, but haven't used it that much, but it works fine too.

Just make sure you get one without ammonia in it, because that will literally dissolve acrylic paint if you apply too much.
So look that they're suitable for acrylic paints.

Art brands will generally get you more for less money.

youtube.com/watch?v=dw0kyZvYb0Y

Those look really good
I miss this game :(
Do you have anyone to play with?

im the guy whos always bitching about losing to lizardmen in aosg

I could use a bit of help in the colour distribution on this one, mostly the large hoses and the Blight Launcer.

Untill now I've done spikes, weapon receiver and flex tubes in black with some steel detailing, but it might become a bit much black on this guy.

Churches.
guy who painted the metallic blue marine reporting in. that other user gave you guys pretty good advice, but, considering I bought mine locally on a whim (because it was cheap and local) and it's better than I thought I'll give knowledge on my experience.

Brand name is Hobbico MasterMask Liquid Masking Film. The guy at the store said he's used it and applies 3 fairly thick coats. Because I used it on the anniversary model I did like 5 or so fairly thick coats over a white prime then sprayed with tamiya light metallic blue spray. an hour later i literally peeled it off, similar to peeling PVA glue off your fingers and it was satisfying as fuck.

The first time I used it was on a test model and i did 2 thick coats and left it for about 2 hours. That was more troublesome to remove, but i bathed it in warm water for a few minutes then just brushed chunks of what I would describe as jelly off. shit's fucking great, gonna end up using this waaaaaay more than I thought. though for good results I will admit it's abit time consuming.

Made this couple weeks ago, but I didn't get any feedback. It's 2nd hand and had pretty thick paintjob from before. Tried my best at making it not look like it's 2nd hand. What could've been better? Feedback appreciated

looks good mate, maybe some brighter edge highlighting but that just could be the camera

Finally finished my kill tank.

> Flock on the side of the base.

Absolutely fucking unacceptable.

even more unacceptable than flock over bare black plastic?

Good morning anons. I am in the middle of a project to convert harlequins to wood elves, and I stumbled upon these hands from puppetswar. Did anybody ever use them? how is the size? Anybody have any pictures of them on a GW model?

They look really good user. Are they the legs and the bodies of the AoS kits?

Does industrial glue like E6000 dissolve when soaked in Simple Green?

i dont think any glues do. you might want something stronger, like mthylated spirits

Actually the goal is to not remove it. I ahve some magnets in place I want to keep affixed while I strip a dreadnought twin lascannon. Thanks user

No, it only wrecks paint and pva, not sure what it does to greenstuff though.

Looks good mate.

How do you find Orks in 8th? Thinking of going for them as a 2nd army.

it looks very unnatural on the white parts

trypophobia activated

Now with all the decided spaces filled in.

I could use a bit of help in the colour distribution on this one, mostly the large hoses and the Blight Launcer.

Until now I've done weapon receivers and flex tubes in black with some steel detailing, but it might become a bit much black on this guy.

Any idea on what colour to use and where?
The ideal would be to stay within the established palette but i'm open to suggestions.

how cold is too cold for rattlecan priming? it's ~10C here, and I've got a LOT of guys I need to do.

Perhaps something the bronze like in this Duncan vid:
youtube.com/watch?v=96RYPJIbJ_k
Not an expert on colour theory but the purple shade should make it pop & help tie together the two main colours on the model

What's the best way to get a shit load of random bits for cheap?

On the tubes or the gun?

If your community has a website or FBpage put up a bits wanted ad.

Was referring to both but I have no idea what I'm talking about - just throwing an idea out there

I rebased and repainted one of my old ass Necrarch Vampires from 5'th edition WHFB.

Now he is ready for AoS.

Wascally Wampire

My chapter is made of scavenging pirates, so adorning themselves with trophies is common practice. Am I on to something here on this dread or is this a no go?

I'll try it out. I'm running out of bits

I think he looks pretty cool.

If it's orks it might work with some fitting

The jaw wont make a good fit without chopping it so much it loses it's style.
Better off saving it for another model.

I do like his Count Orlock teeth.

for the jaw I was planning to add big obvious welds or bolts in an orky style after flattening the piece out somehow. Would help minimize the huge gap and make it look less carelessly tacked on. Well, it was carelessly tacked on by the pilot, but that's besides the point

>Go to arrange my dudes so I have more painting space
>Moving a drone
>Pick it up, move it over near edge of desk
>Flying base falls into the bin
Why are we still here? Just to suffer?

Well I guess you could flatten the top ends of the jaw and slot them into the sockets there the dreads normal sensors go.

Or if you wanna get advanced, do a L cut

I've almost finished the last of my Dark Imperium box. I just need to add battle damage, base trim, black highlights etc.

Trying again this time (hopefully) making more sense:

I've nearly finished my plague-dude but I'm stumped about what to do with his insulated tubes and his gun.

Hos brothers feature flack flex-tubing and bolter receivers, but I'm concerned it might be a lot of black.

Any ideas?

Can primer be a bad batch? I got some vallejo white primer for a change as I usually prime with their black but I'm noticing paint rubbing off very frequently. I never got this before with black but it's like I didn't even prime at all. What the fuck gives? It's taken me 6 hours to do the fucking basecoat on this faggot.

White primer in general is a shit to work with, ALL brands i've tried sometimes come on like fake snow

And here's all the characters etc. with some apothecary and deathwatch conversions.

Then what's the point? I admit it's a ton easier to pick out details but it takes double to triple the amount of coats for most colours and the "it looks brighter and pops more" factor I'm.. not really noticing.

How DO you work with it? Maybe I'm doing it wrong since I'm painting with a "primed black" mindset.

Hot plasma heat-sink, I like it.

Overall very nice, though here's some nits:
Dem barrels mang.
The mud, if it gets up their legs, its gonna cover their soles.
That checkerboard is just too neat, needs something to break it up.

...

Åaaaaand finally all the ones I converted into Deathwatch.

Mostly it goes on well, you just have to baby it.
Only use it in perfect conditions, from correct distance in the right way ect.

I only use white because I'm painting by layering shades directly on white.

he looks awesome - love the muted tones

Sweet, though the DW dudes powefist looks like he can scratch his ankle.

Is that how you're supposed to paint on white primer then? Not the usual basecoat wash layer layer highlight ? You have to layer different coats progressively brighter?

is there somewhere to buy Generic Space Marines in bulk? I want to paint a whole bunch of them but I don't want to pay the price for game pieces if I'm not playing the game with them.

What's the skin recipe on this guy?

It's perfect.

Nah, it's a technique for making desaturated schemes, like the death guard only the metals are "real" paints, the rest are shades.

I'll be damned, ok that looks really cool. Well done!

How do you pin that stuff so you don't touch the paintjob? I have a bad habit of handling them by hand though with clean hands and lightly. any matte varnish you could possibly recommend me?

drill in the feet, paper clips in the hole, also helps mount them on uneven flock bases.

I really should get corks to mount them on though, my hand is raw and cramping from holding unto bare wire.

Thank you very much, like normal pinning then. I had heard some people heat up the end of a paperclip and stab through the feet, melting the plastic around it.