>Do I receive a confirmation after signup? Yes, I send 'em out as soon as I see the email, shouldn't take longer than 1-2 days. If you got none til then, resend a mail.
>What shall I include in the email? Well, your address, obviously. Also, your name if you're not 100% sure that you receive packages without a name. You also can include what you are collecting etc, but don't expect to get something related to that 100%
>What shall I gift? I don't know, use your imagination! You can check last year's SS here: imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>How much should I gift? Well it should be at least 10-15$ in value, so that it is worthwhile all the hassle. But you can also go higher and nobody will say a thing if it's only 7.85$. It's the gesture that counts. I'm sure you find some cool stuff in your bitzbox, too.
>When do we get our matches? The matching will take place Dec 1st and after that, you'll receive an email with the address of your match
>What about shipping costs? I try to do continental matching, so they shouldn't be too high. If you specifically want someone from another continent, I also try to arrange that!
>What do if I get grinched? Email me and I'll try to contact your match. If we can't sort it out, he'll get put onto the naughty list. Often, we find kind anons jumping in and sending something to you in this case!
>Why the fuck are we doing this? Because /WIP/ is literally the most wholesome online community.
>Do people sign up from country XY? Most people sign up from NA and EU, but also from Australia, Japan, whatever. If you only want to participate of someone else from your country registers, you can ask in advance, just shoot an email.
Caleb Gomez
Signed up for this yesterday. What am I in for?
Landon Powell
>Signed up for this yesterday. What am I in for?
In early December, you'll get an E-mail frum da swell lad runnin' it. This E-mail will have the name an address of another user - probably one in your own country to keep costs down - who also signed up. You send him something nice WIP-related (at least $10-15 in value per ).
Somebody else - who will probably *not* be that same user (unless yer wun uv da too ladz in Singapore) - will send you a WIP-related gift.
What are you in for? Last year, our lad in Beckenham sent me an entire squad of plastic Mk III Iron Armour, a giant stack of Cadbury candy for which my whole family was thankful, and da handsome lad wiv da power cane on da left in this picture.
Hunter Jackson
Why is wip dead? I had so many questions.
Joshua Gomez
I received a pack of snapfit gants and paints for the leviathan color scheme.
Put tracking on your stuff, though. Me, I'm worried my gift never made it because no one posted it on /wip/. Was one of them old reaper Christmas promo minis of their mascot succubus
Jaxon Anderson
I need help /wip/ I wanted to do a toned down "Realistic" colour scheme but it felt way too colourless, I was always going to do the purple vein parts. but the purple claws and hoofs look ridiculous, any ideas for alternatives? I can only think of black and bone that would go with it.
Julian Gomez
lol, it's the morning, and it's a new thread. It'll pick up mate. In the mean time feel free to provide any feedback... I'm going to add the upper highlighting layer by hopefully tonight or tomorrow...
Hudson Butler
Looks ridiculous? Nah, They don't look bad. A bit too bright and shiny. Tone down the purple with a wash maybe? I like them though.
James Brooks
I SUCK
NOTHING I DO LOOKS ANY GOOD. HOW DO YOU ALL DO IT. IS IT POSSIBLE TO HATE WHO YOU ADMIRE, BECAUSE I FEEL IT STRONGLY
Leo Lopez
why don't you post up some pics of your mini's before you jump to conclusions. Don't be so hard on yourself man
Chase Cruz
i suggest bone, try toned down first and then make it pop more if its not colourful enought.
i know lots of people here share my hatred of painting gargoyles but these fuckers right here, painting 4 or more sets of weapons after the model really feels like work.
Camden Lopez
write your questions out, then the magical WIP fairies will eventually read/hear them, and bring you all sorts of easy answers to hold your hand every step of the way, despite all the guides posted for everything under the sun in the OP.
Christian Garcia
Well, i asked the questions to 40kg but user hasnt answered them yet so posting it here
>resin/metal casting
First of all which modelling clay is recommended? I looked at a lot of them and found 2 overpriced clays. LeBeau Tusche and NSP. Both are plastalina which i am assuming is a must for moulds and sulfur free. And they have a few variations (medium,hard etc) that i havent been able to figure out which one would be the best for molds. I have found 3 cheaper plastalinas first one plastilina pelikan, second one jovi plastilina and third koh-i noor plastilina. But i havent managed to find any info whatsoever about if they contain sulfur or no. What would you recommend and do you have any info about them?
Second question, i am thinking about casting metal with model metal from prince august. Since it is not resin i am assuming it wont have that much bubble problems. Am i correct? Or should i stick to resin
Lucas Anderson
Finished my inquisitorial scions. Opinions?
Zachary Stewart
And now with all the band together
James Brown
Good paint job and quality of work, I just don't like the models themselves, but that's no bearing on your own work. Good job with the rainbow feather of the moustachio'd lead inquistor. Again good paint work, but the models themselves are meh imo
Jaxon Jenkins
>write your questions out, then the magical WIP fairies will eventually read/hear them, and bring you all sorts of easy answers to hold your hand every step of the way, despite all the guides posted for everything under the sun in the OP.
C'mon, user. Let us have our fun.
>First of all which modelling clay is recommended?
What do you need modeling clay for?
>i havent been able to figure out which one would be the best for molds.
For molds you need oyamaru or RTV (room-temperature vulcanizing) silicone rubber. The only reason I'd use modeling clay is to back the first half of a two-part mold, and the only advice I can offer you there is not to pick one that is really messy, and don't pick one that will try to bond itself to your master (if the master is plastic or resin).
>What would you recommend and do you have any info about them?
If we're still talking about backing the first half of a two-part mold... I can't remember the brand I bought at Michaels, but it was a big green brick for about $8.00, not messy, and (most importantly) did not bond with the plastic masters I was using.
>Second question, i am thinking about casting metal with model metal from prince august.
Sounds like a good way to start.
>Since it is not resin i am assuming it wont have that much bubble problems. Am i correct? Or should i stick to resin
I have a *lot* more bubble problems with resin, and it tears up the softer molds I have, but I don't have a very fancy setups like da ladz who do this for a living. I just cast in the garage occasionally.
Easton Cox
I didn't tell him to "fuck off and read the OP", did I?
Evan Jenkins
Well i like those for inquisitors, but thanks mate.
Tyler Hernandez
Doxing, fraud, the usual when you give your information to an anonymous stranger on the internet. Just please don't send anything nasty in the mail, it's my parents' address as I'm spending the holidays there.
Asher Anderson
Very nice, thank you for your answers. I have read the casting miniatures pdf and watched lots of vids and everyone used modelling clay to prepare the first half of the mini. Than they poured silicone, and after that they removed the clay and done it again to complete a two part silicone mold.
Are you doing it in a different way? By what you have written i am assuming you are doing the same thing with oyumaru.
Any other tips to work with metal? I have read that you need to open air vents and heat the molds before casting but i am not sure.
Oh and local cheap silicon rtv 2 has 350 degrees heat resistance so it will be okay right?
Chase Myers
looks really nice user, digging the colour scheme. the gold looks awesome
Caleb Adams
Looks good but the gold is flat compared to the other colours I would recommend edge highlighting the gold round the trims with silver
Nathaniel Morgan
Sadly OP did not contain the information i required.
Kayden Perez
liquid metal is hotter than 350degrees
Elijah Peterson
Does the plank look like wood? I already redid it 3 times and I think i'm going crazy.
Samuel Lewis
you can't generalize like that - quicksilver is liquid at room temperature
David Phillips
please make me a stable model out of mercury then.
nice virtue signaling.
Ian Brooks
fucking lol
Brody Price
Hey friendos, does anybody happen to recognize the sword and pelt on the back of this converted model?
Leo Morales
It does and it looks really good.
Grayson Torres
350 degrees celcius. Now that i checked the mold max 60 has 294°C heat resistance. A mold which is advertised as heat resistance. So it is safe to assume that while local company is probably bullshitting it is in the safe levels of bullshit.
Camden Stewart
Makes me think of pic related.
Anthony King
I mean, that is better, but still not that good. What metal are you planning to cast with?
Blake Peterson
Funny thing is prince august states its metal melts at 138°C, and should be cast at 300-320 °C There is some bullshit going on with those numbers. They probably mixed fahreneit too.
Andrew Howard
>I didn't tell him to "fuck off and read the OP", did I?
No, user. Your statement was cleverly written, amusing, and not out of line at all. I hope you didn't think I was taking a shot at you. WIP really *is* the most wholesome community here on Veeky Forums.
>Are you doing it in a different way?
Nope. That's why I was trying to explain backing the mold. The first half of the mold is made with clay on one side and RTV silicone on the other. When that rubber cures, you pull away the clay and use the first half to back the second half, resulting in a two-part mold made entirely of silicone.
>By what you have written i am assuming you are doing the same thing with oyumaru.
I have used the western version of oyamaru, but not for anything I've ever showcased here.
>Any other tips to work with metal?
Dust your molds before each pour. I've heard people say to use graphite dust, but I honestly got better results using plain old unscented talcum baby powder.
>I have read that you need to open air vents and heat the molds before casting but i am not sure.
Vents are essential. Without proper vents and gates, you will end up with voids where the air can't escape and will thus block the incoming metal. This sounds like bubbles, but it can actually be a lot worse, as a void like this could block off a flow route resulting in a significant portion of your mold not getting filled - and I dare say you're not going to be forcing molten pewter into a mold using a plastic medicine syringe!
You can heat your mold by doing a "practice pour" at the beginning. It will be plenty hot after just one pour.
>Oh and local cheap silicon rtv 2 has 350 degrees heat resistance so it will be okay right?
It might. I know Alumilite High Strength 3 does not claim to be able to handle molten pewter, but I can attest that it does.
Henry Murphy
54% Lead / 11% Tin / 35% Bismuth mix , as stated in their website.
Robert Carter
oh, well then have fun.
Mason Moore
Hot diggity, I really love the quick shade from Army Painter! Makes me look almost competent!
Logan Hernandez
Is it acceptable to send a box of dudes? Pretty sure no one my shittily painted shit.
Eli Hall
why not, you don't need to include painted miniatures, the gift should be \tg\ related, but that's the only requirement, so dudes are perfectly fine.
Gabriel Cox
Thank you so much user. Guess i will get started than , i love metal models so much more than resin and plastic ones, glad i have put the effort to search through all this and gained answers from experienced and helpfull anons like you.
I will start by minis that are already in metal , assuming they will be easier to work with due to the fact that they are designed to be poured that way and already have spots to show where they used vents.
If i succeed in my efforst i will gift some of my castings to anons in the /wip/ to give back to the community.
Tyler Gray
>Avatarposting >read the rules
Nicholas Cook
Do you know what avatarfagging even is?
Dominic Peterson
Worst case scenario the user you sent them will have a great learning experience in how to strip miniatures. And he will be both happy to recieve miniatures and educated for his efforts.
Samuel Butler
I like the way this one came out... I think I goof'd on some of the decals though, some dried without being pushed down into the folds of the cloth..
Robert Roberts
>the gift should be \tg\ related *part of the gift no-one will complain if they get sweets and some little models instead of a bunch of models
Gavin Baker
true, didn't mean to imply it should only be Veeky Forums related. Tasty stuff is always welcome indeed.
Brody Moore
Kinda.
Benjamin Cox
>I will start by minis that are already in metal , assuming they will be easier to work with due to the fact that they are designed to be poured that way and already have spots to show where they used vents.
If you've seen the kind of stuff Citadel has been producing lately with injection-molded plastic, you'd understand the limitations of metal models. Something else you'll probably notice - especially with the older ones - is that they often had a front/back or left/right symmetry (or nearly so). The mold line that divides the model is so obvious then!
>no-one will complain if they get sweets and some little models instead of a bunch of models
Can personally attest to this!
Kayden Smith
>they often had a front/back or left/right symmetry (or nearly so). The mold line that divides the model is so obvious then!
Case in point.
Mason Richardson
Pewter usually melts somewhere in the 170°C-230°C range, as does lead solder (they're both tin, and usually lead, alloys so go figure). Silicon rubbers in general usually survive 300°C just fine, one made for casting could manage more.
Bentley Smith
Powering through some more armour for my beastmen killteam. Trying out different stuff what could work as a armour aswell. Also need to start figure out what weapons I want them to wield.
Eli Smith
Latest project, any advice would be great
Matthew Rivera
ooooooooooops
Jason Diaz
Repostan my Dreadnought since nobody seemed to care about the lil' fella in the last thread Painted all the tubes black since then and nearly completed the purity seals and the bling on his shoulders and the scroll.
Aaron Powell
>what weapons I want them to wield
Maces, and plenty of 'em
Brody Brown
>tfw a bit of doxing will finally give you some attention
Gabriel Diaz
Looks sexy.
Ian Reyes
Need to get my hands on some bullgryn mauls.
Here's some dryfitting of a heavy stubber because I like the look of it.
Ryder Cruz
Too bad that older minis , even with that limitation are better designed than most of the newer ones today.
Thanks ,i will still call the guys selling the silicone to confirm their materials resistance and remind them very harshly that if my mould melts it wont be the last thing i pour molten pewter down through.
Luke Nguyen
What's that thing you have it mounted on? Looks useful.
Asher Evans
...
Jeremiah Johnson
Maybe I'll use some shade cos I think it'll be hard to get a good edge highlight. I am not that precise with my hands
Ok, you lost me mate
Wyatt Sanders
maybe start painting instead of crying? seriously we've all been there
Joseph Cook
First attempt at doing snow bases. Photo is kind of jank, but it's the kind of loops I have to jump through to get decent lighting in my house. How bad did I do?
Anthony Lewis
Haha! I've got a unit of those Dwarves... Picked them up when I was on holiday in Paris. At the time they'd been released on the mainland for about a year but not in the UK (a bit of an oddity). When they did release them in the UK they gave them a plastic command sprue, whilst the earlier versions had metal parts. I keep hold of them because they're a tad unusual.
Ryder Sanchez
Might be the picture, but the model seems flat, needs some edge highlights to really stand out more
Angel Powell
its just one of my jewelers saws. weapons are magnetized so its nice to put them on something other than my lamp to dry so they wont get paint blotches all over it.
looks good and not overdone, also the models look clean and pretty.
i have never seen anyone do this but i would try these things with snowy bases, grass colour to match the base and army ofcourse.
Jaxson Scott
So my dudes, just replied to all of the Secret Santa entries. Hope I didnt forget anyone. Were at 130 participants so far, what a jolly time to be alive.
Tyler Peterson
It's one of those games that are pretty fucking awful, but also so incredibly great, they manage to keep a bunch of dedicated autists on Veeky Forums to generate memes.
It's basically 40k, but on drugs and with brouzouf.
Asher Barnes
>130 jesus h christ. weren't we like 30 last year?
Noah Brooks
back at ya
Jackson Barnes
I didn't even know there that many anons that browse /wip/. Is it possible to get a distribution of country?
Parker Sanders
Seeing the event run successfully last year may have encouraged others to join in this time, I know that's why I joined in this time.
Joseph Campbell
I think we were roughly 50 Not by country yet (will do that this weekend for matching purposes), but it's 75 NA 43 EU 12 AUS/NZ 1 SEA
Liam Perez
Wait, it's still going on, right?
Dylan Davis
time to sign up till december first!
Oliver Bailey
Yeah, I'll do the matching this weekend. Lots of entries, so it's more work than I anticipated, so not straight on Friday.
Robert Richardson
doing god's work user, best of luck
Logan Adams
...
William King
The pictures I'm about to post are honestly a good summary of the game. It's a Cyberpunk game made by some French guys who can't code and are bad at translating to English.
If it doesn't make sense, don't worry - the game doesn't, either, but it's still fun.
Christian Ortiz
...
Sebastian Ward
...
Robert Flores
...
Nolan Brown
And to keep it on-topic.
Ethan Johnson
I believe the sword is from the fantasy chaos sorceror model, dunno about the pelt, though.
Brandon Robinson
Thanks for the effort, mate. I'll be looking forward to shopping and shipping the stuff.
Charles Walker
How bad is shipping from NA to SEA? I might ask to be sending something to SEA user since the other areas are already paired up pretty well
Aaron Parker
I asked late last night and I'll ask again. This is a WIP thread, is it cool if I post some homebrew rules that are a WIP?
If you want ill post the mega link again, really could use some feedback.
Credits are 10x the point cost of a weapon, item, or character. I haven't had a chance to write that section out yet. The reason is because I will have custom made wargear and I think having it be worth .5 points is weird.
I blame the dependence on computers to make things fit. People get more creative when they have to tinker manually. Art through adversity, and all that.
Matthew Wilson
>no user likes getting sweets for their secret santa
I have diabetes and I would be SO DOWN if someone sent me a box of candies.
Colton Bennett
consider the game design thread
Anthony Sullivan
Good point, and thanks.
Jose Ramirez
I don't want to do any work today /wip/ I have so much on my desk, throne! What can I do to inspire myself to push on?
John Morris
A desire to be the prettiest girl at the ball, I mean have the sweetest looking minis on the table. That and for some reason my dude's large, but bad conversions get more attention than mine at game stores so I'm gunning every time totally obscure his army in style. Before someone says maybe his stuff is just better, even my buddy admits it's odd how much more attention his stuff gets when a lot of my stuff is better done
Anthony Hughes
I bought this sucker used for 30$ in it's current condition several months ago with hopes of reviving it. I've been able to get some tracks (and for free too) But it's missing the front left drive sprocket and the whole set of rear left idler wheel assembly. Does anyone have any idea where I can get those 2 sets of wheels? It's all I need!
