WIP - Work In Progress General

>tfw Black Library will never write a book about two estranged Alpha Legion cells going Spy Vs Spy against each other

His Legion of the Damned and Redemprion Corps are what sticked with me.

So I think I finished this (ocean) man. And then promptly stuck him in the fridge, of course. Tried to make his base kinda beachy! He looks a bit messy up close but far away looks decent I think.

>Coral themed Death Guard
That's fucking awesome user. Keep posting these as you paint them

say i want to get an upgrade on my brushes, what kind of (not hard to get) brushes should i get? im tired of using goy w brushes that fray after a couple weeks
not too expensive and still attainable but still -good-, yknow

Unfortunately this is a one off! I just paint, don't play. Here's a pile of things I'm gonna work on as well as an orange DG

Hickam Bro! Your shit's on its way!

take me by the hand

Working on this "Silver Dragon" mini that I decided to turn into either a Sapphire Dragon (Eragon was the shit as a kid.)or Ice Dragon. Anyone have a guide as to how I would go about painting the rock it'll sit on either as a giant gemstone or a hunk of ice? Preferably with GW paints.

Buy W&N series 7 brushes. You won't regret it.

I actually bought the Slowfusegaming Bombwick brush set and they're really good. 5 for $33, all sable and really good sizes.

I thought it was a great look at how an AL unit that rejects the gods would operate. I really liked it.

>I'd seen a recipe posted around here a while back.

Is this related to that? It's the only one I could find in my bucket o' fingz with both text on it and the word "alpha" in the file name.

...

That is indeed the picture the user used to illustrate, though the top half is new to me.

This was posted a while back by an user who I believe used the guide above.

To add onto this. I'm not sure if I want the wings to be a brighter shade(Like Baharroth Blue) of blue or darker(closer to the hue on the underbelly). I'll be applying a super diluted wash to tint them. The spines will definitely be the brighter blue color.

Sorry for the stupid question, but how do you get the initial metal base coat? Is there a spray for that shit?

Anyone have experience with the new d&d mini line? Been painting a few for my siblings for Christmas and am really not liking the minis. Even though they come primed, they aren't taking paint (using GW paints) as well as other models that I've primed with a different material and the models just aren't consistently designed in a way where you can reach all the areas that need paint easily. Also, fucking moldlines every where and kind of low detail models.

Did a little more work on the bloat drone. Committed to a black eye lens, and washed the green, silver and flesh. Next is highlights on everything except the white

GW sell leadbelcher spray, but you'd probably want an airbrush for this I think

The one I'm working on here is one of the "Deep Cuts" Pathfinder minis and I also have some Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures Dragonborn Fighters, haven't opened them yet. But the dragon seems to be holding GW paints just fine. It's just me handling the mini that's rubbed the paint off.

SHEIT. Thanks user. I just started to finally play 40k proper, and I was looking for an easy way to do Alpha Legion without fucking up all my models.

Yah it's the nolzur's stuff. The paint jobs don't look bad, it's just I'm actually sad that I can't seem to paint these at the same level as my warhammer stuff.

Short answer, yes. Longer answer, yes, but metallic sprays tend to clog up the spray nozzle really easily so you might end up wasting a lot of money when your mostly-full can stops spraying.

You probably won't be able to just because how the details int he minis are shaped. there's no real crisp edges like on GW minis, even the sharpest points are rounded at some point. They are great for practice because of how damn cheap they are. Sidenote, I actually cut the dragon off the rock because of the issue of unreachable areas.

I did the blue on these guys(still WIP) by spraying leadbelcher, glaze x2 of thinned guilleman, highlight storm host silver, and then glaze x 2 of 4:1 lahmian medium to green gemstone paint. If you want it to be dull at the end instead of shiny do one less glaze of guilleman before your highlight, and do a glaze of guilleman after youve applied your coats of green gemstone

I'm thinking of putting some glyphs on my boss, what are some good bits to pick up for this purpose? The boar boyz command banner looks like a nice idea. Suggestions?

Holy shit. I want to try this with the blue gemstone paint for the hunk of Sapphire in the dragon I posted above. That looks incredible.

That's awesome! I hadn't even considered gemstone paints.

needs a lot of touching up and finishing off but I've got a big chunk of the sargent done.

Don't thin them

Those are really beautiful. Have you considered making their eyes glow blue like Celestant-Prime's?

I screen-capped your post so I can try something similar on my Tzeentch dudes.

If using the crackling formulas paint your base the colour you want your shadows to be before applying the texture paint. And you should apply it a little thicker in the areas that you want bigger cracks.

Flash Gitz come with lots of glyphs and boss poles.

I want to do some swamp themed bases. I'm probably going to mix sand and PVA to get a texture going and add muck pools on a few of the units. Has anyone else done a good mud effect without buying the GW Stirland Mud?

What's a good brush on primer that you guys recommend for GW minis? It's far too cold for me to go outside with a spray can.

Also, is there a primer you guys can recommend for resin minis, either spray or brush on?

Just reposting this so it gets added to the gallery! It was at the very end of the last thread.

As long as the paint itself isn't too cold, you should be able to still spray prime your stuff. If not, GW makes some paint on primer, army painter, you can't really go wrong.

You're better off using Stirland Mud or Stirland Battlemire.

PVA and sand is just going to look a lot like a regular sand base.

Welp, looks like Christmas came early for me lads. It's actually a gift from myself for my birthday, but w/e.

Time to make some Assault Marines, a Lieutenant, some Heavy weapons lads, and another Dreadnought.

You're probably right... I'm just worried that I will have to buy a good amount to base a whole army including larger beasties.

I think Lukes Apps had a tutorial how to make mud texture paint a lot and quite cheaply. Check his youtube channel

whole chaos crew form Dark Vengence? Noice, that's hell of a start for a cultist gang for Necromunda!

There's something you can do with fine sawdust, PVA and water. I think I've got some infographics on making mud/trench bases that should be useful for you.

Yeah, my cans are in the house, so that's fine. I haven't tried spraying in super cold weather though, it won't come out grainy at all?

As long as it isn't below freezing outside, I would think you would be alright.I haven't tried doing it below freezing myself

Nope, fuck, no infographics. Sorry.

How do you guys get out of hobby crud? I don't know what to focus on and I'm really trying to clear my backlog of space wolf stuff before hopefully russ comes out, but I also just have a ton of shit to work on.

Sorry for a big photo, but I didn't want to post 15 of them separately.
I've used chipping tehnique utilising spraying colour over rusty-like basecoat with salt covering several parts of the models. For a first try - worked better than I've expected.

Rotate units to keep up the variety. Write up a list and work on getting everything on that list painted, then models you like. Beer.

I've worked with a few of them that I don't currently have on me. You don't really have to prime them, though since they're pre-primed that means they still have mold lines so you'll have to prime the bits you cut.

Besides that the detail is nice and the options are great. The primer works greats after you give the entire model a good sudsy bath with a toothbrush.

I might pick up a shadespire skeleton box and turn them into draugr and see how I feel about it then.

There was a related effect I wanted to try sometime. Someone did a Green, Jade looking effect on the armor of some sigmarines. Anyone have a guide for that?

Have a side project. Painting an army is sometimes a chore, so paint something elese from time to time, model you like (not nesesarely need) to treat yourself for a hard work.

>waiting for your match to post his ss
>checking the thread everyday

Your pic is related, I was reading Devastation of Baal and now I'm working on my Flesh Tearers

Anyone know if there a olive drab wash like Athonian Camoshade but.. well less pathetic in tone strenght?

I find having to do 4-5 layers for coverage is tedious and leads to overshading.

Wat the book isnt even out yet

I mean just reading BL stuff made me want to paint up some of my backlog, helps me get inspired sometimes

well user, I've been doing similar testing back in days when I was starting with orks.
If you want to have bright, juicy green colour, paint those git skin in yellow, either by using layer of yriel yellow over white, or one layer of vallejo yellow ink. Then go over it with biel'tan green wash.

There's been an .EPUB floating around for at least the last week or so. It's in one of the MEGAs in the 40k general

You got it! I hope you like it user!

>well less pathetic in tone strenght?
You could use real inks.
You may have to mix your own olive tone, but inks have much more vibrant colors and stronger pigment.
The only thing to consider is that they tend to dry glossy, so you'll have to matt varnish the model if you don't already do that.

I like mine a dark n muddy olive drab, more a yellow brown with green tint really.

SImilar to the GGY in the examples but the "shadows" get more and more extreme and under good light it get too yellow.

Best result I've had was a GGYGG but that afer a shitload of wash and was a dirty and time consuming affair, entirely inefficient for a full army.

Glossy skin is ok for orks, sweat n shit.
Didn't consider inks actually, I was nearing the point where i was considering getting pipette dropper and pre-mixing washes.

Might have to see if there any craftstores nearby that sells inks.

Not the user that suggested this, but P3 and Vallejo both have ink lines. As do a number of smaller paint peddlers.

Some inks are even airbrushable IIRC.

It needs to be brighter

Yo /wip/, Haemonculus guy here, just thought I'd share some of my improvements and look for more feedback.

Hope everyone is having a happy holiday!

Pic 1/2

Glazes

Pic 2/2

Pretty solid, I'd consider a sepia wash to tie the cloak together, hide the paints texture and deepen the recesses between skins.

Buy some Vallejo surface primer. You can brush it on, doesnt need thinning and comes in wide variety of colors.

regular calligraphy inks work too. Same stuff basically.

Here's an example from the GW painting guide from back when GW used to sell inks.
As you can see the effect is quite different than using a wash.

Stil gotta find a store that sells it, sadly my local craft-store seem to be of the "paper, styrofoam, glitter and beads" variety

So... bronze horse effect? What was this for?

>bronze
it's a mix of brown and red ink. There is not metallic pigment involved. What are you talking about?

The white over black looks metallic on my screen.

Perfect. Thanks.

user, I cant really answer the question with wash, but maybe I could help you pick a way to paint ork skin:
>Prime model black
> layer of Steel legion drab
> Layer of Elysian camoshade. Bonus points if you manage to keep steel legion drab in recesses
>Highlight with Uriel Yellow + Elysian camoshade
>Don't wash it, use glazs instead

Don't have a finished pic, but I take 1:1 of lahmian medium with steel drab and fill recesses with it. Looks kinda like DoWII ork skin.

I've tried regular panting with glazes and highlights, it just ain't for me too cartoony, I much prefer the desaturated look.

This being a YGGGG skin.

This being a YGGGGB skin.

Thanks to the user who suggested this miracle-in-a-pot. Goes on in one coat (except big, flat areas, but whatevs), don't even need to thin it. Duncan/10.

They aren't made for people with high standards, they are game pieces.
Also, I'v never painted a model that is 'ready to paint out of the box' that is actually ready to paint out of the box.

If it's that cold I'd recommend standing the cans in a mug of hot water (the warmest you can stick your finger in for twenty seconds) for a couple of minutes and then shaking for a full two minutes before use.
Too cold and it won't dry and settle properly, you have to compromise between shit coverage and pooling.

>with salt covering several parts of the models
wut? Can youg ive a bit more detail? That sounds interesting.

...

Saarbrücken user, wave 1 SS here, it's still on its way. It's currently with the international courier, not sure if its actually in Germany yet but its getting there.

What does YGGGGB mean? And this looks yellow, too much for my taste. (It is silly to argue over tastes, so I'm just pointing out that it does not pass as classic green orks for a bystander).

And yeah, I know what you mean by cartoony. I also dislike over the top bright models. I came to realisation that it is not a very good thing when your models get lost on table due being too dark. It is easy to tone down a bright model, but making dark one pop out is way harder.

Aaaaaaaaaaand fuck, didn't save part 2.

shit I might just go read some then