Got pic related for Christmas, how do I go about sculpting greenstuff spikes onto the shoulder pads to make them more chaos for an Iron Warriors army?
Jacob Anderson
Did you get any models from family and/or friends, outside of the Secret Santa?
Made out pretty good this year. Working on a portfolio to get a commissions business going. Also just had a hankering to do some Guard, as I used to play them back in 4th/5th.
Joshua Nelson
the beauty of iron warriors is that you really don't need to add loads of spikes and junk to them. If you do make spikes then I'd recommend avoiding greenstuff, it won't come out that well, instead I recommend carving up excess sprue, plasticard or coctail sticks
Juan Nelson
Cultists and assorted goodies in bottom right are my SS, the rest is from wife/family.
I've got a hell of a backlog now, but I'm especially excited to crack open those soviets. I've never painted anything other than GW models before so it's going to be very new to me.
Jordan Cox
Got a Space Marine Librarian from the GF.
Michael Turner
Holy hell, what a haul. And yeah, backlog is why I only asked for three model-related things this year. I'm hoping to get the Plaguebearers I asked for on my Birthday in two days.
Models and a girlfriend. You lucky fuck.
Nicholas Parker
Slapped together yet another big mek
Sebastian Green
first full unit complete. have another ten chaos warriors i'll have to do but fuck that. gonna do knights or something first. i still love all the extra bits you get on the CW sprue, all the little spikes and skulls and topknots and shit
any tips or exercises for getting steadier hands? stretching my fingers and wrist backwards helps, and i can usually manage a little jitter, but it's annoying
Adrian Ross
Guys what the hell is wrong with me? I have painted an entire flames of war army, and at best they look okay. I have a BA Italian army that is also just okay. I have moved on the 28mm Prussians for Black powder. Again they just look okay.
I have followed the guides, thinned my paints, gotten the paint on smoothly and so forth. But i just can't make my models look very good. I am not even going for amazing quality. Just good enough to play. But honestly i feel almost ashamed to put my models on a table looking as bland as they do.
Christopher Foster
Post pics you clown
Robert Baker
Got a voucher to my flgs so technically?
Easton Green
i am gonna regret this
Jackson Reed
>remembrancer sculptor of an early pre-unification age psyker gifted with foresight, widely regarded as having seen through the veil and into the immaterium
They honestly don't look that bad user, you're being too hard on yourself.
As for advice, the biggest one seems to be that they're lacking in highlighting, as well as the patchiness in certain areas like the white belts, the skin, and some of the trousers.
Are you just drybrushing them? Because that could explain a lot for why you've plateaued in your painting abilities. Edge highlighting can be tricky at first, but you'll see the quality of your painting expand massively once you get the hang of it.
Skin is tricky, but I think that's the area of the mini that's letting you down the most. I don't see much consistency between the two figures, though the guy on the right is definitely the better one. A simple way of doing skin is putting down a consistent basecoat, layering on your mid-tone, giving it a light wash, re-add your mid-tone, then finish with an extreme highlight on a few select areas like the nose, brow, and chin.
Zachary Walker
You were right! Staying at the back of the party with your eyes closed *does* work!
Merry Christmas, /wip/. I'm sharing a guide I bought from a Golden Demon winner.
Aaron Butler
I've got a redemptor dreadnought coming soon so I'm doing some planning on how I'm going to pimp it out
I run my own chapter that some of you may have seen posted here before (Space wolves models with as much of the wolf shit removed as possible and more runes instead) and I'm trying to think of what I could try and greenstuff for iconography on the redemptor to make it more in theme with the rest of my army
So far I've been making some greenstuff runes from the venerable dread kits axe/shield but I'm stuck on what else to make. Thoughts, ideas?
Grayson Lopez
You'll always have us, brother.
Mason Wood
aaaaaaaaaay
Anthony Thompson
big slab of rock with some runes carved into the front maybe?
Isaac Long
Always interesting to see how many Golden Demon winners recommend fully assembling before painting. Seems like people have such polarizing opinions on it. Thanks for sharing, user!
Ian Adams
on where, the "nose" of the sarcophagus or one of the side armor plates
Christian Watson
i got 50 bucks, plus a 25 dollar amazon gift card from my contracting agency by way of a bonus. the job itself pays almost twice what i was expecting entry level in my field so i'm not gonna bitch
might buy some brushes or something on amazon, and gonna head down to the hobby shop tomorrow and spend the 50. backlog is big enough not gonna get any gray plastic, more looking for hobby essentials beyond the very basics since i'm a dipshit noob. hobby knife, bluetac, greenstuff, maybe a buttplug, some edge paints, maybe blood for the blood god.
what else would be some less obvious essentials for somebody just getting in? i asked this yesterday but still filling out the list.
Gavin Campbell
I don't usually drybrush unless there is a huge area i need to do and there is no danger of getting the wrong colour on the wrong part. With Napoleonics there is not much room for drybrushing.
I had been using a dark prussian blue as the base coat and moved up to just plain prussian blue. I then mixed a little white in with prussian blue for highlights but it looked too stark a contrast so i ended up washing them to dull it a bit.
I think my choice of colours is part of my problem. I am bad at choosing what to highlight etc with.
Zachary Turner
Makes sense on a model like this - there's nothing really blocking anything else, like when you're assembling regular Space Marines (fucking Boltguns) or Cadians (fucking Lasguns).
Colton Morgan
Consider how you're going to base your guys if you haven't already. You may want to pick up some flocking material or texture paints.
If you don't already have it, brush cleaner. I recommend Masters brand, it'll help extend the lives of your brushes greatly.
Jacob Parker
Tools for working with greenstuff (look like shit a dentist would use), bluestuff if you're going to be casting small things, small drill and bits for drilling barrels and magnets and what not, also magnets. Otherwise basing supplies, while its the most expensive I swear by the citadel texture paints. Stuff for cleaning and maintaining your brushes is also a plus. Jewelers saw, and those fancy shaped blades you can get for xacto knives can be handy as well.
James Thompson
Yeah lad I got 40 mantic zombies and bought myself some spirit hosts with gift money, this is the wip of my spirit hosts so far! jesus christ they were weird to slot together
hey user, try using the following, a smaller brush, a bit of the model stuck on the end of a stick (blu tac works fine for this) or bracing what you can against a table I additionally a wash applied to those chaos warriors in various spots would certainly improve their appearance. eg for fur cloaks(if you dont have a wash just mix a like 20% black paint with 80% water, put a dab of dishwashing detergent in and shake liberally. apply to crevices on cape then either wipe off with your finger or the brush the stuff sticking on top.
Got some models bigger than a Chimera now, also used my Amazon gift card to buy a Valkyrie.
Owen Cruz
The Citadel moldline remover is pricey but worth it because you can't cut your fingers with it and the unusual shape helps you reach odd angles.
Robert Martinez
I actually do wash, but looking at some close-up vids of people washing, I think I'm way underdoing it.
Ayden Reed
i wouldnt recommend someone on a budget spend 30 dollars on a tool you can either ebay an industrial version of for $2 or use a blunt knife
Josiah Mitchell
Got some ork shit to work on for my grot-mek army at the GW Boxing Day event, won the my new waifu at auction
Caleb Wood
Spent Christmas assembling cultists
Carter Smith
Please tell me they arent official gw
Jordan Reyes
The torsos and rifle arms are forgeworld renegades, the rest is from Victoria miniatures.
Isaac Murphy
what are you on about, forge world can do no wrong and every model is amazing
Bentley Gonzalez
Well these are recasts.
Hunter Barnes
GF got me a box of Necrons so I guess I collect Necrons now. I'm thinking a really funky color, maybe candy apple red
Julian Anderson
You sure that's not china-cast?
Nolan Thomas
>tfw got a repulsor, Redemptor Dread, and a new Librarian in Termie armor from family for christmas Lads, would it make sense for minotaurs to have a repulsor? It's cool as shit, but I haven't a clue where to start
Gavin Lopez
100% certain, even got replacement stuff from FW, it was better but not by much. I'm never ordering anything even slightly old from them again
Nathan Gutierrez
FW and other weapons. GW cultists are notably different
Nicholas Myers
you should get the first set of color changing metallics from greenstuffworld and paint them with one of those colors, they'd look badass.
William Harris
>The Redcrons do it
Gabriel Anderson
Hot rod red armor with a high-gloss finish, bright gold skeleton bits.
Dylan Williams
>color changing metallics That's a thing? fuck! I'm set on my Redcrons, but that'd make for a bitchin' active camo effect.
tried to add some more detail to the tabbard, could be worse but I don't think it's quite right
Ryan Cooper
Mein gott. Remind me to never order old stuff from FW. They use the molds to the breaking point.
Nathaniel Powell
There really isn't anything polarizing about it. The model has an open pose, you can reach anywhere without problems. No need for it. Doing it just for the sake of is pointless.
Angel King
Nah, they’re recasts. Thought you were talking about the sculpts.
Jeremiah Anderson
>forgeworld renegades, the rest is from Victoria miniatures Nice combo. Looks great.
Parker Taylor
Yeah their DKoK stuff is pretty jankey at times but it's pretty much a roll of the dice, I think the guardsmen at ease is better because I think they are old moulds but freshly cast as of recent
Jonathan Smith
This is what you get when you fall for the Z meme.
Jason Cooper
Either too many folds, of that the folds don't match up to the legs? Eh, looks just fine though, wish I had your skill.
Nathan Gray
>Either too many folds, of that the folds don't match up to the legs? I think it's mainly the position of the folds, I'm thinking I might lose a few and that might make the shape a bit more natural. This is my first propper attempt at doing anything other than gap filling or sculpting fur with green stuff, it's pretty fun.
Jack Smith
Nice work for a first time. Whats the plan for the model? Also, how does one sculpt fur. I have a project that may warrant it, and I have no idea how to do it.
Thomas Bell
Redpill me on the easy to build snap-fit stuff GW is pushing
Hunter Brooks
you'll have your shit painted and on the table faster, helping you eliminate that backlog easier
Adam Bailey
Cheaper than the standard kits, no in-built customization, but can still be converted if you know what you're doing.
Probably loads cheaper for GW and helps pull in some more of the younger and "casual" crowds. Is nice to get a discount though on certain kits. Wasn't expecting a $25 price point on the blight hauler.
Daniel Martinez
>ebay an industrial version of for $2 Link please?
Evan Garcia
Thanks. I'm thinking of trying some because these Aggressors are a bitch to put together, specifically lining up the cables so they fit just right. Then I saw they have an easy to build option for those so I am considering trying that but I was worried the quality might be a little worse or they would have a reputation as being too casual.
Owen Harris
i cant find them, but i remember some user talking about being able to get the ones they use to remove mouldlines on shit like plastic bus seats, and you could get them dirt cheap
John Turner
Shit, you might as well cause the easy to build kit for those guys has one of their best load outs anyway, and they look exactly the same, only way to tell is the static pose.
Bentley Sanders
>Buying more kits from GW will help eliminate your backlog Wow, really makes you think!
What do you guys do for 3D printing if you dont have a 3D printer...
Sebastian Hernandez
Whats your favorite/best model you've painted this year /WIP/?
Lincoln Harris
Well, do you have an colleges nearby with some kind of engineering, 3d art, or computer degrees? They might have a 3d printer they'd let you use for the cost of the materials, thats how I usually print stuff.
Isaac Roberts
Probably this.
Hudson Gomez
Check if any of your local libraries have a 'maker space' or similar setup. The library wehre I used to live had a separate room with 3d printer, photo-editing stuff, button presses, and all kinds of cool shit you could use at materials cost.
Isaac Hall
Maybe a user can help me, I'm new to the island of Oahu and looking to get back into wargaming.
Blake Powell
Isnt blight hauler kinda tiny model? Almost as big as a death guard termi?
Daniel Watson
Either this shit picture of my Mortarion
or...
Luke Ortiz
My GUO.
Was happy with my Cawl and Nurgle daemon prince too.
Currently painting the AOS snail guy
Thomas Long
Damn, that looks really nasty. Nice.
Kevin Martin
Thanks, it’s my first time working in resin so it’s been a learning experience. Hopefully it’ll look better painted.
Andrew King
I thought id be adventurous and paint the thigh panel like a piece of wood, but it looks so out of place now.
Whats the best method for taking the paint off a specific surface? Im thinking of using a toothpick dabbed in nail polish to break down the paint carefully and get it off.
Ryan Torres
Got me some more Guardsmen, a Command Squad, and a Valkyrie! Merry Empsmas, everyone!
Jonathan Morris
you do not want to use nail polish, acetone free or not, you'll melt the plastic. Just paint it black and layer the green over.
Angel Mitchell
I love that model, suitibly disgusting paint job too, he's really impressive. The only minor thing I'd change is the teeth are a bit too pristine and nice compared to the rest of the model, I think they'd look nicer the same dull bone colour as the nails
Aaron Roberts
Do not dare change it. It looks awesome and I demand you tell me how do do it. I suggest you make one of the banner panels wood too
Jackson Turner
I made sure to make the teeth as white as possible. I really wanted that big shit eating grin to stand from the rest of the model. I've been trying to thinking up a suitable name for him based around his smile.
I'll probably paint the the tuck like teeth of the new GUO in a yellowy bone colour
Isaac White
Either this big guy.
Noah Lee
Or this fella.
Isaac Long
Smol klaw
Jacob Martinez
I really like this bone, whats your secret?
Blake Johnson
This poor soon-to-be-dead bastard right here.
Jordan Harris
wait a minute, that face-
Oliver Harris
> rhinox hide basecoat > medium brown lines > go over some of those lines with a very pale brown like zandri dust > light wash of agrax all over, and deeper on the grooves.
Jacob Hall
Okay I have some kind of delema: I have a vampire count army fairly finished. Peinting scheme: -Black and Red (classic)
I now have 3 armies on the to do pile. A Highelf army, a Dwarf army, and an Empire army.
I wanted to paint my warf army blue and beige-white. My empire army as blue yellow. But now how to paint my highelf army? The classic would be also blue and white but that would be the same as my dwarf. What do?
I could paint the HE lilac and white ...or red and white. But That wouldn't be the classic image of the HE 5th edition armybook. It was the very first warhammer book I bought. So It has a very special place in my heart.
Soooo ...should I change the dwarf colour scheme. Could do. But into what? Beige red? That would be something different. So yeah. I would need some ideas.
Gavin Price
Black primer, zandri dust, thick layers of Agrax all over, cover in a generous amount of Ushabti Bone everywhere but on the deepest recesses or in places you want to keep brown like the beak, apply washes of sephia on the remaining recesses (this last part is crucial). Put in layers of 50/50 screaming skull and ushabti or use them as highlights, it all depends how dirty/polished you want your skull to be. Use the Sephia wash to blend the darker Agrax with the lighter parts of the bone. For extra clean skulls, add a thin layer of screaming skull.