WIP - Work in Progress

Post Christmas Blues and huffing plastic glue edition

Secret Santa unboxings at imgur.com/a/qS7PH

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

strawpoll.me/14692516
youtube.com/watch?v=p1EHj3c4e2Q&list=PLX1fXqW4h5RRcMWPdKQaOoskc-XsyeV9Z
youtu.be/ibDaOddULAc
youtube.com/watch?v=bMpkSKmEnqk&t=1045s
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Thanks from Alaska to Mr. AM! I hope you had a great Christmas and/or non-denominational winter solstice celebratory event.

Man I really gotta decide if I’m going to try playing 40k again after 6th poisoned the well, keep sparsely collecting and converting Eldar on the side for hobby jollies, or attempt to liquidate now that Kingdom Death has taken over my hobby life for the foreseeable future.

Danefag here.
SS gift from other danefag recieved, thanks.

I'm so fucking hyped to get back home and convert the shit out of the kits my SS sent me

I'm pretty excited too about my SS projects. I'm going to try and make a nice diorama base for this guy to sit on. I was thinking an old wooden room with a stone floor and skelington arms reaching in through boarded up windows.

What I really want to do is a little framed painting of the creature in the coffin on the wall above a fireplace.

>I was thinking of printing off a small pic of a similar gobliny vampire and gluing it to card then carefully painting over it.
That will probably work, free-handing is quite tricky, but with a template it becomes much easier.

Forgot the damn pic. Pretty cool witch hunter. So grateful to my Santa user. Any advice for trying to do a little painting of the creature?

I was thinking of printing off a small pic of a similar gobliny vampire, gluing it to card stock, thin pva coat then carefully painting over it. I reckon a dollhouse painting or plasticard for a frame.

Yeah, I reckon I can do it, I've been practicing my free hand and jewel skills as a primary focus for a bit now. I'm quite liking this guy as a contender. If it turns out not looking like dog shit I guess I could do a few paintings.

This one is a contender too.

I rather like this one, very stylish

Danefag reporting in, glad to see you got your stuff user, was scared shitless of our Scandinavian postal service.

Sorry it wasn't all Orkz, but I hope you'll find it useful anyway.

Yeah. Also the way he is shaded and highlighted in blocks of colour should make it fairly easy to paint over

I finished my Escher Gang girls.

Help me name this gang, and the psycho cunts in it!

I'm thinking
>Riot Girls

Or something along those lines at the moment. The only one I've named is the blue hair chick at the front, calling her "Rain", straight out of the Underhive rulebook.

Their background is they make their money being paid riot girls, tricking plebs into violence and committing the worst mid-riot crimes, then using female victim status to get off easy. The riots are used to damage rival Houses economies. Occasionally though, other houses crack the shits with their "activism" and send out other gangs to fuck them up.

Try 'Oldhammer' ? Depending on where you live, there are communities that have yet to move one from 2nd ed.... or sometimes even Rogue Trader. I know there are/have been communities in Australia, mainland Europe and the UK.

Siouxsie and the Banshees

>then using female victim status to get off easy.
user I don't think that happens in the Imperium... you are going to look like an idiot if you tell that to other players

just finished my first players for my 2 new blood bowl teams, the Madcap Munchers and the Flaming Phoenixes

I think you nailed it with "The psycho cunts" tbqhfamalam

Those look great user. I love both the color schemes but the mapcaps (assumedly they are called that becaus they are on mushrooms?) Are my favorite.

Benatar and Jett are your champions.

>you are going to look like an idiot if you tell that to other players
Maybe. Or I just won't tell them that part. Are you sure women don't get treated different on Necromunda? Women get different treatment to men in virtually every single culture.

>I think you nailed it with "The psycho cunts" tbqhfamalam
It's a good name, but probably would offend normies.

>Siouxsie
I don't know how to say that because I am not an Apache.

>Jett
Jett's a rad name. Done, that's the girl with the gas cans.

It's pronounced "Suzy", it's akchually pretty self-evident.

Dont forget to answer the poll
strawpoll.me/14692516

Dont reply to OP unless the reply is very important for the entire thread

Where could I find some victorian-ish looking miniatures for putting together a gang of bloodborne-inspired monster hunters in various scifi skirmish games?

I have the old witch hunter with bionic arm and plasma pistol and I love him but he's the only model like that I have.

Get a grip.

Anyone got some pics of tau objective markers, other than the one from chapter approved?

Or even a small diorama, thinking of doing a small squad needing rescue

>Maybe. Or I just won't tell them that part. Are you sure women don't get treated different on Necromunda? Women get different treatment to men in virtually every single culture.
Well, on the other hand there's this whole "Worst and bloodiest regime ever" thing going on in the Imperium, where lobotomising children to make mindless slaves out of them isn't exactly an unusual thing to do. I guess it would be better if they start the riot, then get out as soon as shit hits the fan, but sometimes they do get trapped and have to fight their way outside.
Also, being gangers they probably get rounded up and beaten down as soon as the Arbites rush in anyway. Maybe they're using contacts and/or corrupt Arbites to get out?

lurk moar fgt

Basing question!

So I have generally gone the lazier/safer route with basing, sand + rocks etc. I've done some flocking before but it usually just turns out looking messy, and it sheds like crazy (I just use PVA glue like I do for the sand).

Any tutorials out there for getting good looking ground cover?

And if I'm doing some sand areas and then flocking too, should flocking be applied over any sand or should I keep the flock to just clear areas of the base?

What does /wip/ use for sealing their minis?
I sometimes wind up with shiny guys and want to avoid that

There you go user:
youtube.com/watch?v=p1EHj3c4e2Q&list=PLX1fXqW4h5RRcMWPdKQaOoskc-XsyeV9Z

Thanks, that doesn't look too bad, but I wasn't looking for a tutorial on acid-pool terrain bases. Just some light ground cover, scattered grasses and shrubs and such.

My personal method is to sand and rock the base before priming, then after giving it a wash and drybrush to bring it to the color I want (and doing touch-ups with Valhallan Blizzard since I always prime white), I flock and tuft over the sand base, trying to avoid the rocks obv. I personally like the results of this sort of layered basing, pic related has been done as I described with a light dusting of snow on top of the flock.

Just use some GW technical paints for the earth and some static grass. If you want fully grass plains style looks I suggest flock base with some grass tufts and rocks.

Reposting one of the chameleon metallic paint test webms again. Find the rest here or on the instagram in the filename. It's only the first set of two. I'm considering ordering the other set and doing the whole thing again. Would there still be interest in it, or is enough stuff out there by now?

Assembling dark eldar scourges. What weapons should they have? Blasters, haywire, heat Lance, splinter cannon? What about the solarite?

the meme meta combo is 4 dark lances or 4 splinter cannon and default solarite
solarite should probably be default as 5 or 10 guys in close combat will die anyways, though if you really want to a blast pistol is always nice.

Dark Lances on jump infantry? How does that work?

>Anyone got some pics of tau objective markers, other than the one from chapter approved?

Here are some I saw in WIP several months ago. They even light up with converted tea lights!

Here's what's inside of .

Got started on some guardsmen converted from GSC Neophytes, heads are Victoria Miniatures.

Opinions/Ideas? Also, what paint scheme should I use? I was considering doing one based on E.Y.E Divine Cybermancy with black armour with gold trim and grey robes, but looking at the models i'm not sure it fits.

It's a playlist user, there are other tutorials in it. And the guy has quite a lot of basing techniques.
When in doubt though, you can always put down a texture paint, drybrush in the colour you want and add some tufts or static grass.

Those are pretty much airbrush only, aren't they?

you camp them in a building and snipe multi wound models

You could go with some WW1 based scheme and it would look pretty good.

You can apply them with a normal brush as well. The one review that was posted here did that originally, I did it on a different model when the paints arrived. They are thin enough to be used straight from the bottle, the first layer is kinda like applying a wash on a black undercoat. A little bit can be seen, but not much. It takes 6 to 8 layers to get decent coverage with them when using the brush, depends on the colour as well. Using an airbrush makes the whole affair a lot faster, but isn't neccessray. My precisions isn't that great, so I will be applying them with a brush for models that only need them in a few places.
Eventually I will get to painting one, but I'm still caught up on figuring out a coloursheme.

Just finished this part, really happy with how it turned out.

Would they work better over a white undercoat with a brush? You did post some with white undercoats in the other thread, but airbrush again.

Who's watching this while painting?

youtu.be/ibDaOddULAc

The results on white undercoat would be the same with a normal brush, as they are with an airbrush. The colours react with their background colour just the same. For the ones that show up on a white undercoat, you'll see results faster though. For the ones that don't, only the week shine.

>really happy with how it turned out.
and so you should be, that's some pretty epic armament going on there my man

something like pic related might look nice if you wanna explore camo as an option

Victoria miniatures

how did you make those flowers on the elf's base? fucking lovely!

Your /pol/ is showing user...

>tfw your bits, bases and recasts all send shipping notices on the same day
Truly blessed times we live in

shoo shoo get that weak bait outta here

Too memey, they just need to tone it down by like... 40-50%, I'd love just some chat and discussion but it just boils down to fucking memeing and

OHHH ho ho wouldn't it be great... to have like... a million titans LOL

I'd hate to paint a million Titans LOL

Just... guys, you're all adults 30+ ... just... tone it down, please

It could also be his Paradox autism

Im still painting wholy assemled models but i wish id be confident enough to do as you did. Looks great.

Nicely highlighted and clean, good job

I like those bases, how did you paint them? Looks like something shinier than Leadbelcher washed with something dustier than Agrax?

I'm just getting into the actual tabletop aspect and got these for Christmas & my birthday.

Besides glue, what else do I need? The 2 brushes are Small layer and Medium layer. I also haven't decided on a color scheme yet so I don't need paint lists.

Those are the "Grass tufts flowering" from Noch, a company specialized in rail transport modelling

Army Painter also make them, but if you want to make them yourself, get some grass tufts, add white glue on the top of each little grass and put some colored foliage on it

If I want to paint black clothes can I just use pic related and start highlighting it with dawnstone or should I also put two thin coats of abaddon black?

The outcome would be identical, but dawnstone is a bit light for a 1st black highlight. Eshin Grey would be better followed by Dawnstone.

Ideally, you'd need a brush cleaner - it's about a fiver at a craft store (e.g. Hobby Lobby or Michael's) and it really helps keep your brushes clean and pointed. A small palette would be helpful; I use an old Testors one with dimples the size of my pinkie, I find the round white ones too big for me since paint dries out too fast. You can also make your own out of old lids for sour cream/yogurt/etc. One warning: That paint kit might not have all the paints you "need"; I got one for the Skitarii and it was missing the blue for their eyes and energy, the bronze for their highlights, and the black for their clothes/tubes. Don't forget to thin your paints to keep them nice and smooth.

GLHF, Tau looks pretty cool and I'm sure it'll be fun to paint.

You wwant glue, clippers, some more cheap brushes to destroy them, a hand drill with 10 drills and 2mm magnets - you really need them to magnetize your crisis suits. You can get all this stuff from aliexpress for really cheap (about $1 for 3 brushes, $4 for a hand drill and $1 for 200x 2mm magnets)

You need a tool to remove the mold lines. A hobby knife would be the cheapest, but if you can spend the money get the Citadel mold line remover so you don't cut your fingers. Also when you get your paints get something to seal your models when you are done painting, you can get either spray or brush sealers. You should get more brushes too because you will destroy those fast and you will want to experiment with different types/sizes to find what suits you best.

>hand drill and magnets
I don't think these are "required" for someone first starting out - magnetizing is a hassle sometimes. I also wouldn't cheap out on brushes since they can cause lots of frustration. Honestly, I use a regular exacto-knife for mold line removal rather than the tool.

I also have a mechanicus standard grey - would it do the trick?
>The outcome would be identical
Why are they not named same then? I mean both spray mournfang brown and pot mournfang brown are called mournfang brown - yet we have pot abaddon black and spray chaos black

watch/listen to a real podcast
youtube.com/watch?v=bMpkSKmEnqk&t=1045s

Not that guy, but desu I find it easier to do several sub-assemblies, paint them up untill they're pretty much done and then glue them together, only doing the finest highlights on the assembled model.
On the other hand, Space Marines are easy mode most of the time anyway.
On a somewhat related note, how does one lightbox? I got mine today, but the results still look wonky. By that I mean fucking awful. Can't see one goddamn highlight on it. Their protective dustcoat might not help either but...

I use my Citadel mold line remover and exacto knife about 50/50 to remove mold lines, but for somebody who is new I would recommend the Citadel tool because they are going to stab themselves a lot with an exacto knife if they are just starting out. He should still get a drill to drill barrels, they are cheap and it's a very easy thing to do.

Mechanicus standard grey would be fine too. As for naming, Chaos black pot became Abaddon Black and the spray stayed the same old Chaos black for some reason. There are no differences in shade or hue, they are both black.

Chaos black and Abaddon black have a different finish. It's not that much, but if you have to clean up parts of the black, it can show and give you a result you might not want.

>I don't think these are "required" for someone first starting out - magnetizing is a hassle sometimes
Man, if you play T'au you really need to magnetize your shit. I started playing tau about 3 months ago and I learned it is wise to magnetize even the fire warriors just to make painting them easier
>I also wouldn't cheap out on brushes since they can cause lots of frustration
Nah, I destroyed my GW brushes in a week. Yet, the shitty aliexpress brushes are doing fine and you really don't mind throwing them away and buy the next set for $1. I mean - I just want to have my dudes painted, not to win the Golden Demon

recommend me a hand drill user, i had the citadel one for a while but it's a piece of shit.

You need neutral light from as many angles as possible. It seems as if you only have light coming from the top which makes a heavy shadow on the bottom half of the mini, and washes out most highlights.

>Minotaurs
my brethren

Depends on the glossyness of the prime vs what you want. I'd use an almost black to layer (something like vallejo german grey), use abaddon to shade and do grey edge highlights. Mix a bit of blue into the grey, looks nicer, depending on the army of course.

Good to know
>Chaos black and Abaddon black have a different finish
Then I will try to paint metallic parts as clean as I can and I will see If I need to use abaddon black to cover some mistakes

Well, the lightbox came only with two LED strips, but I do have some more lying around somewhere. Just a bit worried that it might become too bright, I guess. Will post results soon.

I use the Army Painter drill. It's $12 and comes with several different size drill bits.

>stabbing yourself while removing mold lines
I can't conceive of how; you're scraping with 0 force, and I don't know how you do it, but when I scrape, my point doesn't even naturally end up pointing towards my anatomy.

I have tipped my brush in tea for the very first time. Am I the true hobbist now?

Followup, my 'Bulldozers' (Heavy Weapon Team w/autocannon count-as)

Larry kills everything he fucks.
Barry fucks everything he kills.

Well, I guess it is a bit better. I just added one on each side, at the bottom. I guess that's good enough.

Shouldn't they be on 60mm bases?

ONE OF US
N
E

O
F

U
S

Now get a new mug of tea and don't waste your paint on your mug instead of a miniature.

I tried it, but there was a lot of wasted space and I was sitting on a pile of these without any good use for em. We play measure-to-model anyway, so it dosen't matter.

Pretty nice.
These are pretty much exactly what I was thinking about doing. Thanks for showing me what they'd look like.

my brothers!

>Get the Stormraven ready, we've got some heretics to hunt!

Thanks user! It seems to be a pretty popular conversion after chatting with some folks on here, and i'm pretty happy with how they turned out.

I dread painting them though, theres so much detail in there.

Can I use citadel paints with airbrush?

I accidentally used my paintwater as a chaser once. Drinking while painting, never again.

There is the Citadel Air line, but I guess if sufficciently thineed down, you could also use the regular ones. But take this advice with a mountain of salt, I don't use an airbrush.