WIP - Work In Progress General

H-how?

WIP on some Acolytes

Looking for tips on painting the inscriptions and oaths on space marine armor. I'm ready to hold my breath and make small squiggly lines but I wanted to ask in case someone had a link to a nice how to article for some pointers.

For some reason I always think I'll be able to find a guy who's cornered the market and made a nice decal sheet but I've not found anything like that.

There's lots of ways you can tear your asshole lining. Google anal fissure. It fucking sucks.

>Looking for tips on painting the inscriptions and oaths on space marine armor.

What colours are you working with? I do black writing on white or off-white things with Sakura Micron pens.

MAIM KILL BURN BROTHER

I like the way the red of the lenses go with brown/grey drab. Guy in front looks real fucking good with the blood spatter.

Thanks anons! It took me quite some time to finish them because my dog died when I bought them, then y broke up with my gf... it feels really good that you like them

You could have had a country music career...

I hate dry-fitting, turrets always fall off during the game. How would I go about afixing the turret of a predator without taking away its ability to swivel? I thought about magnetizing it, but it would require a rather large magnet, lest it either ends up clunky or just too loosely connected.

Is it a metal turret?

Those magnets tend to be pretty strong, as long as you don't pick it up by the turret.

Nah, plastic pred. I'd post pics but I am currently at work.

Hi guys. I am looking to buy a basic compressor and an airbrush. What would you recommend in general? What is a must have feature and what to avoid? Cca below 150euro price range. I will only use it for priming most likely.

Hmm that's smart, it works well for you? I'm doing writing over yellow and red, the SM I'm painting is a captain so I think I need a lot of writing on his armor.

Check the previous thread

How much do you care about wargear/WYSIWYG when converting?

>Hmm that's smart, it works well for you?

None of the armour writing is visible in this picture, but I use the same pen(s) to write on and in some cases draw the banners.

Not even a little bit, but I tend to let the pieces dictate the loadout anyway, and avoid playing with chucklefucks.

Any good guides for doing OSL over shiny (white) surfaces?
I have literally no idea how to attack doing reflections from a powerplant glow and such off what is supposed to be creamic armour plates.

>Any good guides for doing OSL over shiny (white) surfaces?
Also related, anyone know how the Kastelan robots look next 54mm Inquisitor minis?

>trying to airbrush anything close to white from vallejo

Why does it spray so damn wide?

With darker colors I always get a nice consistent small spray, but with whites and close to whites it's a fucking hose

What specifically is your issue with Citadel paints in airbrushes? You've mentioned a few times you hate them but I can't figure out why.

Posted my first mini yesterday, was happy to get some feedback other then 'thin yer paints', so I took another shot at painting.
How badly did I fuck up?

For important stuff like weapons it is important but if it's something like grenades or other small upgrades I prefer to see what looks best before gluing.

taking a picture that close is never going to do you any favours.
The paint is basically in the right place but a little on the thicc side, it's most noticiable on the shoulder pad and backpack.
For a second mini it's decent enough, keep practicing

Thanks, I'll have to go pick some of them up and give it a try. Love the font on your banners, do you use a reference when you dry the letters?

Much better than the last one. Paint could still be thinner, but your photography is worse than your painting so it's a little difficult to tell apart from that.

I use that for silly eyes

>just got back from 16 day trip to china
>missed my models a lot, made a lot of painting plans for when I got home
>arrive back, too tired from 14 hour time difference jetlag to paint
>bummed out, fall asleep at 8:00pm

>wide awake at 2:30am because of jetlag
>paint like a fucking production line until 9am
>nearly finished 20 plague marines in one evening, now just on to details and clean up

>have to get back on a plane tomorrow

Was the D good at least?

People are butthurt on here all the time.

>user can finish 20 marines in a single evening
>i can barely finish one kroot in a whole day
how do you guys manage this? holy fuck.

My GW Sotek Green looks so dark, I think I've gotten a bad pot. Could anyone post a pic of theirs please?

What do people use to paint white inscriptions on black armour here? Micron pens don't seem to come in that colour. I was thinking of using a sharpened toothpick, would that work?

Pic related, the left one is more or less the scheme I'm going to go for.

Experience. At this point I plan out my color schemes ahead of time and try to consolidate how many washes I have to do per model.

Anyway not quite done, still got all the gross bits to finish but that's fun on these models. All the armor/trim/metallics are done though.

One part of the equation is practice. I can paint in an hours what used to take me four hours.
Another thing are the models, the methods you use for painting and the standard you are aiming for.
There are a lot of ways to safe yourself a bit of time.

>Thanks, I'll have to go pick some of them up and give it a try.

You can get a package of them at Michaels for about $10 if you use a 50% off coupon. They've been giving some good coupons lately, hoping people will come in and clear them out of their Christmas crap. Sakura pens are inexplicably more expensive on Amazon.

>Love the font on your banners, do you use a reference when you dry the letters?

No, it's just whatever I thought would look cool, yet remain readable. If you look at closely, you'll see variations in letters and style from one model to the next.

The purity seals are completely illegible, but that's by design; there's no way you could decipher script that small at 28mm scale.

I'm doing some crustaceans, and I want them to look like this lobster. How would I achieve this sorta speckling effect on the carapace?

man, shame primaris cant get the black rage eh

They've got the Red Thirst, the Black Rage ain't far behind.

I'd recommend geting a fine brush and using regular white paint. Though I used ink here. Afaik there is no white ink.
I used a 10/0 synthetic brush form davinci for the writing here.
I wouldn't recommend a toothpick cause it has no reservoir. You can do things, but not draw lines with it.

pic was cropped from a larger image so it's slightly out of focus.

crap

these meme-marines look good

Experience makes you faster & sometimes you just get that "flow" feeling where you are just in the zone.

I've found best Duncan tutorial.
youtu.be/0hx9TO4Tao8

...

My vallejo game color bloody red keeps coming out glossy, I don't mean satin or anything but actually glossy. Like the same kind of glossy the old gw inks were. I've tried shaking it, opening the bottle and physically stirring it with a stick Has anyone had similar problems?. Do i just have a bad bottle? Did i get memed?

Well, hey, looks like my SS has arrived.

Thanks mate, love dorfs, particularly with hammers! Gets me an excuse to get into AoS, as well - I'll post painted results soon as I can.

>Oh wow, time to get me some sable brushes!
>Only brand they carry is Da Vinci
>Size 2 is the smallest that's in stock
Fuck.

Da Vinci is as good or better than overrated W&N S7, and size 2 is small enough with any of the top sable brands like W&N, DV, and 8404 to have the same sharp point as a size 0. Going below size 0 with a kolinsky is just stupid, period, especially with W&N S7 and their stubby hairs.

Size 0 and Size 2 are all you need.

0.25 inch neodymium magnets should work for a Predator turret. I've used them for multiple ork tank turrets, and they do the job.

In the process of giving my daemonettes enhanced (and also symmetrical) tiddies and some badass slaaneshi pauldrons because
>muh shoulderpads
Are cool even on daemons. So far they are coming along nicely. I also added some gore to some of their claws and a few pieces of armour here and there.

Nothing against Da Vinci, just lamenting that their only option is sold out. I was hoping to pick up a 00 and 1, or 0 and 2 in a pinch, but I guess I'm just getting the 2.

Lot's of patient stippling and layers thereof

Just finished assembling my warriors. I am using pumice for the bases for the first time, so should I put it on before or after priming?

Will post results once I have them primed.
Also, lore-aside, is it feasible to have a mixed Chaos force with Daemons from more than one Chaos god? If so, are there restrictions? I am noob.

Not 100% sure, but if you have someone bringing them all together you should be fine. A mortal summoner might well call on multiple gods (Word Bearers, for example). A daemon prince might also qualify, being less bound to one god in particular that normal daemons.

Want to make loyalist space marine army, love alpha marine colors and more. Now I see a bunch of people building and paintng alpha legion marines. What do? Stick with my gut or go with a more obscure chapter? Or should i just make my own?

Colors and lore* sorry

WIP of my Blood Bowl Bombardier

Thanks user, that makes sense to me. I'll likely look into getting a demon prince next to bind my army together. This is my very first army, and as I couldn't decide between Chaos Marines, Nurgle, or Slaanesh--I was hoping to cherrypick the 3 and have a solid mix force.
So far I have:
A small squad of chaos Cultists
A troop of Poxwalkers (and some change)
A troop of Daemonettes
A beast of nurgle I homebrewed from Green Stuff
And in the mail is a new blight hauler and a small troop of Plague marines.

So far I'm really loving the hobby! The lore is so-so for my chosen armies, but I really like the models.

Be careful with the clippers! Looks like you took some of the model off with the sprue on the cannon-barrel

Stick with the Alpha Legion, and claim to be the TRUE Alpha Legion when you play.

This is what my gut tells me so I'll probably stick with it. Thanks for confirming!

Have any of you anons used Vallejo brush on primer? Is it thin enough out of the bottle to put straight on the mini?

Yeah, there's a small hole that I will take care off once the model is fully dry

It's thin enough to put directly into an airbrush to spray, so it's thin enough to paint directly from the bottle.

I've had success with the black version, just shake it really well and you can paint it on with a brush. Just watch out for bubbles.

Your Michael's stocks da Vincis? Lucky fuck

I recommend before, I find it helps keep the pumice from chipping off.

More death guard stuff. Still working on this guy, but he's gettiing there. I think the thing I enjoy most about these are the nurglings, they have so much character for such a small set piece.

Thanks

It's not meant for brushing on but you can. Badger Stynlyrez is better. Dries faster, doesn't peel, and can be sanded. Vallejo has a higher polyurethane resin content so it probably is slightly more durable after it cures.

Is Army Painter brush-on primer any good?

Is Kantor blue a good blue for deff skulls or should I go lighter?

Getting back into 40k and looking for general ork paints to purchase

>Your Michael's stocks da Vincis? Lucky fuck

DaVincis are one of their online-only items, which, I should warn you, you normally *can't* apply the coupons toward. This is also true of certain product likes like Copic and Cricut, entire categories of items like things they consider technology (darn! I wanted a Wacom tablet!), and things like books and magazines.

It's all in the fine print.

Yes. It works straight out of the bottle.
It also shrinks while drying, so even if you put on a little bit to much it will kinda shrink back into the details of the miniature.

Really good stuff actually.

army painter has a brush on primer? huh didnt know that

Deff Skulls basically use the same colors as ultramarines for their blues.
Imo Kantor would be much too dark for anything but a shade.

Thanks for the heads-up, user. I've too many brushes already from sniping 3camel watches but always looking for knowledge of deals.

Btw for anyone interested, AC Moore now has a 15% student ID discount that I've used on top of a 55%-off single item coupon to get bottles of Golden fluid acrylics for $2-4 apiece. Not bad to get 30ml of highest-quality single pigment paint for less than a 12ml pot of Citadel.

>Btw for anyone interested, AC Moore now has a 15% student ID discount
>implying any of us are newfag enough to be a student
>implying the newfag students have money to paint minis

clean your mould lines before you glue things together

Anyone know of any UK sales/coupons?

Posted at the end of last thread with no responses
What do you think about my venomthrope conversion

>Golden fluid acrylics for $2-4 apiece. Not bad to get 30ml of highest-quality single pigment paint

Have you actually used them? Because I have. Their pigment density is very low. They won't cover for shit. I can't comment on the actual pigment grind quality because I don't thin with water and I didn't feel like performing experiments or using a microscope just to see if the pigments were quality or not. Pigment density is just as vital as pigment quality. Just buy Vallejo or better yet Army Painter, Scale75, or Warcolours if you must maximize your hobo shekels per mL, and without sacrificing workability.

>not going back to school for engineering in your 30s

honestly i don't know what the fuck i was thinking

I run it straight through the airbrush with only a drop of thinner, for sure you can brush on immediately but I'm not sure about the result you'd get.

As other anons have said, Vallejo primer comes off with a stern look right after priming. You can literally wipe it off with your thumb a couple of hours later.

However, let it cure for 16-24h and NOTHING will get that paint off the mini.

>What do you think about my venomthrope conversion

Probably less dangerous than all the *other* poisonous things there in the Outback.

>snide remark about it being australian
I think you need to do something to lessen the warrior silhouette a bit

Really digging the cracked glass on the side of the tank. Nice work.

Sexy. They look really fucking evil but in a cool low key way. Blood splatter guy looks really good.