WIP - Work In Progress General

Happy New Year, WIP!

>WIP Secret Santa unboxings
imgur.com/a/qS7PH

>WIP Secret Santa Poll:
strawpoll.me/14692516

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/oZtE6HWXg0E
strawpoll.me/14692516
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

should i do my bugs as (new) kronos or leviathan?

Does anyone else have immense difficulty deciding on what colors to paint shit like impaled heads and enemy corpses on bases? I can't decide on what SM chapters I hate the most

Awesome drawing for the OP! Happy New Year to my favorite thread~

I’m stuck bored at work so I decided to sketch up my Nurgle display board plans (not to scale but to brainstorm). I’ve been watching tons of diorama/terrain videos so maybe I’ll be able to try some stuff out soon. Hopefully the photo comes out fine since I’m being a dirty phoneposter

Happy New Year Johnny.

Ok /wip/ My new year's resolution is to get through my backlog and not buy anything unless I need it. Sly Marbo

Does grimbindol have rules of any sort?

Holy hell, that's an insane backlog, I thought I was bad having a 16 model backlog.

Pic related

Got more done but unsure how I highlighted the chest. The reflection looks off, I'm not sure if the light would gleam that way off of it. Also not sure if the gold belt buckle is too much, kinda looks more like a wrestling belt now.

He has got mission rules as a objective.

This plastic crack will get you too.

(Childlike vroom vroom noises ensue.)

Inspired by user with the blue and white britonians I decided to get my own knights.

>inb4 evil knight as jousting tournament

Nice.

Is Dawn of War with the Titanium Wars mod the best color scheme tester? Don't have any paints so I can't do test models without going out and buying colors I might not end up using.

>“Daubany! Come out! These men don’t have to die!”

Oh, you sweet summer child.

Nice dubs.

You should just kill your-self with a back log that big. Only the sweet embrace of death can free you from the pain.

...

That looks awesome user. 10/10.

Which parts of a Guardsman are considered the accents?

Just finished up this BB vampire. Wasnt sure if flash was better or worse for lighting but if the pic is unclear I can retake.

Any feedback appreciated.

anyone here use AK interactive basing materials or is it a meme and I should just stick with the GW textures?

I have a six story display case jammed full of grey plastic. And an under-the-bed plastic tote completely full. And assorted boxes around the house.

All in all probably around 3-4 grand in plastic around the house, if not more. I consider it my solid assets.

Great technique, I think it would gleam like that realistically if the light source were directly ahead of the model, but that's not the case for other highlights, the light source for them is from the model's right side.

I wish that was the extent of my backlog.
Hell, I wish that was the majority of my backlog.

>implying he didn't win the belt in the annual Space Marine wrestling match

>I need help.png
I can only wish I only had so few models left.
You should count yourself lucky.

>backlog of 25 but you can't even play until it's assembled cause you don't have an army

Any middle-of-the-road airbrushes you'd recommend?
In the market for a new one

I'm starting the year off with tiger shark deffkopta

Pic now

I bought Prodos Space Crusade Miniatures. The "Amazon" good-aligned bikers.

Happy New Year, /WIP/

Question /WIP/. Is it better to take a photo of your miniatures with or without flash? When I take a photo with the flash, I am not sure if its just me but the colours seem to be slightly off when I do so.

Is natural lighting better or does it make no difference?

im gonna collect dark eldar

Watch this video
youtu.be/oZtE6HWXg0E

The more I see his videos, the more I dislike him. Just babbles and babbles and babbles.

You can either flash off with a few lamps all around, or you can flash on with tissue paper or something over the flash.

The best case is a light box. Which is a box about a foot by a foot with white walls, a ramp, and a semisolid cloth on the sides with lights pointing in behind and above it. Then it's no flash on your camera. Look up 3 point lighting. Basically pic related. By some paper, cut up a cardboard box, and put some napkins over the side with a light shooting through it.

Thanks. I was thinking my miniatures were far more garbage on average when looking at my flash photos but its reassuring to know flash alters view a bit. Guess I am going to aim for natural lighting without flash.

working on my death for the new year

what the hell are the things coming out of the hooves of my cavalry? I also see them on my old Brettonian knights

What I've been up to this holiday season while waiting for my ss package to arrive. Soldiers for frostgrave and finally highlighted and based this terminator. I wish I painted faster.

tuft of grass. old school miniature sculpting trick to stabilize miniatures with awkward poses.

>Actually having photos of your backlog.
Probably a good time to update the spreadsheet before I make big promises of finishing it all this year..

The Poll
>strawpoll.me/14692516

No flash
>Take your mini to the fridge
>brace your arm against the fridge surface
>take photo
>?????
>profit

I have most of a Tau Battleforce box to get through. I think it's 7e but I'm not entirely certain. Haven't been up to date with the hobby until recently.

What are some good washes for yellow? Averland sunset specifically, trying to get a nice cloak going.

...

Quick question, what do I use to seal these guys so the paint doesn’t chip off.

Matte varnish but the paint on the knights face is too thicc. You may want to consider stripping and trying again.

It doesn't look that thick to me, it just kinda looks like a crappy or old sculpt.

It is a really crappy sculpt. I did my best.
Thanks guys.

I used agrax to pretty decent results.

I've got some money from Christmas left over. What's a good brush set to pick up?

Cool conversion user

Seraphim Sepia should also play nice with most yellows.

Hi there, friends.

I'm trying to decide on the color scheme I'm gonna use for my Tyranids.

So far I've decided on purple skin, black carapace, acidy green weapons/fleshy bits.

However, I'm trying to decide what to use for my weathering/secondary carapace color.

What do you think?

I'm thinking either Yellow, Grey, or White.

Pretty good for now.

I recently used methylated spirits to strip my Dark Imperium Plague Marines (which worked pretty well), and that shit actually managed to dissolve some of the plastic glue bonds. Plastic glue is a welding agent, not an adhesive, so how the fuck did that even happen?

It didn't set properly, I'd guess.

Could be. I assembled them back in July, but I think the bottle of glue I'm using is about five years old, so it might have broken down a bit. Still does the job though, and that was after a good 12 hours in the metho.

Think about what SM chapters your models hate the most. Forge that narrative son.

Looks swag as fuck.

you could always use some of the chapters / legions that are played most at your regular gaming space. No need to actually hate them, just your regular opponents.

tfw I live in a two bedroom apartment on campus with a tiny-ass room and desk

Does anyone here have any tips for how to go about painting with little to no room?

>16
>16 models

You are like little baby

I have 5 full sized armies

DaOrkLifeChoseMe.jpg

Amazing user

So I recently made the switch to a Badger 105 for airbrushing and I'm not very happy with it, it has serious trouble spraying at low psi, I can't get it to spray extremely thin lines and if I put a bright color into it, it sprays like a goddamn hose

Fault of user or faulty brush? I'm really not sure, feels like it should perform differently.

Have you tried spraying ink with it first to test it?

>Dryad Deathguard
Sounds hella cool my dude.
Is there a reason not to go with the bone armour, since the wood and leaves are supplying your browns and greens?

Looks bretty gud bro.
How big is that?
A bit under 12" square?
I'm looking forward to seeing these boards.

I ended up looking at a bunch of Blanchitsu blog shite, and I think I'm going to aim for a dusty Ex Profundis-y look on my caravan crew - never really done the "painting for mood" thing.

>You should just kill your-self with a back log that big.
>I thought I was bad having a 16 model backlog.
Oh shit nigga, you a softboy.
Go get some backlog in your backlog before you bring up your backlog again.

But seriously, I have a reasonable backlog that I keep around for painting when I don't feel like working on the shit I'm supposed to be painting, as a productive break.

You'd best start believing in fridge memes, boy, yer in one.
No really, it works.

I'd say grey - yellow would probably clash, white might be a bit stark.

Organise yo shit son.
Get one of those plastic tupperware tray drawer things and a toolbox organiser, and be disciplined - take out only the bits you need to build, the colours you need to paint, and brushes/water/scalpel etc.
That way you can keep enough square footage to paint in, but have easy access to all your stuff.
It's also pretty good training to follow one project through to a sensible stopping point, if not actual completion, because you only have the stuff relevant to that model out.

If you play mob Orks or horde Nids though, you're shit out of luck.

Nah, I'm just starting out, still picking an army at the moment.
Nids and Orks aren't my favourite although in my insanity I was tempted to make a Skaven army.
Been thinking of Death Guard or Dark Eldar, or if the new Death stuff coming out next year is good enough I'd give that a shot.
And I'll give those tips a shot, my only issue is that I also need my computer on my issues tinydesk(TM) and priming would be a bitch unless I can convince the residential department to let me spraypaint out on the grass or something.
Thanks!

>Slaanesh icon replaced with tzeench in last frame.
What did he mean by this?

>Filthy rat-things
Well shit buddy, it's your funeral - if it's college dorms, enjoy your no space to move and no time to study because everything is covered in rats.

The best bit about mini-shelves is that they tend to be light enough that you can stick them under the desk or in the wardrobe until you need them.

Prime inside a big cardboard box on its side - nothing gets on the grass, you just need to stick your d00ds to a separate piece of card so you can spin them to spray from every angle.

I swapped to the big 0.5 needle on a whim and now it sprays perfectly

Which is really odd because the 0.33 needle isn't bent and nothing about it looks defective

Guess I'm ordering a new 0.33 kit

Cheers, I might do that, and there's plenty of shelf and wardrobe space I never use in here so that'll come in handy.
And I've since decided against Skaven, because I hate the Clanrat models and they'll be 90% of what I'd paint. I might get Queek just because I love him though.

Just getting back into the hobby after a long hiatus and painting my old ork army
>mold lines I know
>need to drill barrels

Any tips greatly appreciated
Going to make a wet pallete this week

Does anyone know where I can get some good quality hills for gaming boards?
pic unrelated

Front

Why not make your own?

Anyway, I think if you google you'll find a few. GW used to make some, Zieterdes does foam scenery, and the 'battlefield in a box' range probably has some as well.

I don't have the room to make my own. But I am looking some unpainted basic hills that I can paint up, since the GW ones are OOP I just don't know where to look to get something similar

>I don't have the room to make my own.
Do it on the street, or in the garden, on on the roof.
You just need a knife and a block of styrofoam and some thick paint to cover the bobbles.
Then spray with glue, cover with sand/flock, spray green/brown, spray with glue, cover with sand/flock.
If you have room to game in, you must have room to model in.

Worked on the Stormcast a bit more, still only on the armor, it's turning out a ton darker than the other user but I kind of like it. Camera still has trouble catching a lot of the shine and color variation in the armor but I think this shot captured it a lot better than the previous.

Decided on more of a space theme than a sky theme on the shield due to the models themselves turning out a lot darker, now to find a way to tie them together, might do a layer of very thinned blue gemstone paint to bring the overall value closer.

It's really fun just painting a handful of minis that don't have to look good as a part of a whole army, really lets you test out a bunch of fun stuff you wouldn't do otherwise

I assume you're picking out the metal/decorations on the shield?
Silver or gold/bronze?
Currently I don't think that much purple works very well against the blue/green without something to break it up.
Very nice space effect though.

>Posts a couple months worth of work
>”I need help!”

>Couple months
Either you paint hasty mediocre jobs or you're some kind of wizard

in "a couple of months" I could get maybe one box done (or all the stormcast I guess)
must be nice to be a fast painter

Yeah, the metal parts of the shield will be metal, undecided on the color though, it depends on where the armor of the actual stormcasts land, but I think the hammer and crest will help a lot in breaking up the purple.

Can I make large-crackle paint myself?

For my Fools on Parade I want a Death Valley desiccated mud flats type of thing, but I'm not really sure how to do it.

Cutting out plates of plastic and tesselating and painting them could be done, but I don't know whether I'll actually be able to make that look natural.
This would however have the advantage of concealing a base, so I could pop the models in and out of the display board easily.

The sort of crackle paste that companies sell for basing seems to be aimed at covering a 30mm base, I don't know if the cracks and sheets would be big enough to look right on a big board.

Vallejo sells crackle medium that can be mixed with any kind of paint. Should come in big 200ml jars.

Looks a bit too crackly, as far as I can tell - very very small, that's what I mean regarding the 30mm base thing.

Also, in the process of writing the above post, I sort of talked myself into thinking that the plates would be a better idea.
Removable basing would be great for actually playing games with them

Lukes Aps has reviewed some wargame terrain, maybe check youtube channel.

How thin should your coats be? I'm thinning my paints and the first coat is translucent.

My paint store is closed today.

Rip 2018

Is there any way to prime in chilly weather that doesn't turn out like shit? It's -6 degrees currently and I don't wish to wait 4 months to get anything primed.

Go outside, spray, then bring them back inside to dry

Buy airbrush

For most paints, that's probably a tiny bit too thin, but basically fine.

Pre-warm your cans, prime outside as quickly as you can, leave them to dry in your bathroom.
To be fair though, six below is pretty chilly, it might not work.

Costs money I don't currently have.

Prime by brush or prime with an airbrush.
I wouldn't recommend priming in the cold, even if you immediately bring the model back inside, the paint may not set properly since the solvent can't evaporate fast enough.