/wip/ thread

Well the store is closed today so I can't go get the paints I need, might as well ask some more questions so I don't fuck it up.

original post chain (first post has the scheme shown on infantry)
Since the fatigues are going to be white/greyish should I use a white primer or just go with Chaos Black? It's throwing me off since the armor plating is going to be non-white but I've heard painting white/grey onto black primer is a bitch to get it good.

Any tips for priming in cold weather? It's been averaging 20 degrees Fahrenheit here for the past few days, peaked at around 30.

I have an M Base brush, S Layer brush, and M Layer brush, that covers everything I'll need right?

I've found a bunch of paints from my brother who tried picking up 40k about 10 years ago but didn't stay, they've been kept in a basement ever since. Can they be salvaged? I'll make another post with a picture of all of them lined up.

Doughnut Steal chapter, minor nautical theme but trying to not go too over the top with them...
I hav to replace my old ne that was made obsolete with 8th

I was thinking of of just greenstuffing up the most obvious gaps and calling it a day

I'd recommend changing the feet a bit, at the moment it's very stormcast. cut the end of the feet off replace them with the end of standard marine, greenstuff the gap then do a really thin plasticard rim around the whole thing

>trying to not go too over the top with them.
He has hooks for both his hands, an eyepatch, and a beard, I wouldn't call that toned down, not that there's anything wrong with that, I think it'll be neat.

I use a W&N series 7 size 0, Cawl's been the first model I've started using a W&N brush on and I feel like it helps a ton. I paint most highlights using the side of the tip, and make sure to have very little paint on it so it has no chance of blobbing anywhere.

Here's the paints that I found, not pictured is a can of Chaos Black primer, not sure how much is left or if it's still good.

i opted away from the pegleg at least, but yeah...

Getting the clippers

I want to paint an army of these guys, because the edgy lore and colours appeal to me.

warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Charnel_Guard

What do you think their actual space marines look like? I'm guessing black with red pauldrons.

He could've had a machine gun peg leg
missed opportunity.

Mix them with some water, stir them to break up any solid parts and then shake them very vigorously.
Worked for mine, though obviously it depends on how well they kept.

I've been using the old shadow grey for the fatigues on my tau and the scheme you posted is pretty much the same color, black primer is going to be fine.

If they're sealed well they're probably fine. Recently stared hobbying again and most of my 15 year old (or more) paints were okay.

Are you comfortable painting an army knowing that GW could release their color scheme at any time?

i can't for the life of me come up with a color scheme for my oathmark goblins.

so far i'm planning two or three types of skin to be mixed in randomly (from the citadel paint app): sylvaneth bark, ork skin, and salamanders flesh.

the armor/clothing of the units are a mixture of cloth and chainmail. the chain is easy, it is the cloth that i'm stuck on. i'm trying to avoid black and red. my "best" idea yet is steel legion drab and incubi darkness, but worried that's unreadable.

i've got black, white, light grey, and skeleton bone colored primers.

pic is example mini.

So they've been fleshed out more? Last time I checked they were just the guys who got away from badab before shit hit the fan.

>Basecoat colour argument
I'm going to try black with a cover of white, see if it works for best of both worlds.
Not actual zenithal highlighting, just spray black on the sprue, then a less thorough white after building.
Should do the hiding crevices thing the black is for, but give me a light base to colour the rest of the model.

You should probably try to think of an army color. Something to put on the shields and banners etc.

More work on venoms today. Am excited to finish and switch to infantry

i think that's where i'm stuck. i can't think of an appropriate army color for goblins.

i've dark eldar in teal and dark grey, dark angel marines (dark green, bone, black), sept sa'cea tau (ice blue, black, orange), a whole white, blue, orange frostgrave warband, and a while red, green, brown frostgrave warband.

i'm having trouble picturing a banner or shield beyond my initial idea of tan drab and dark black-green checks. does that even work? looking for ideas.

with the pictured skintone it likely would be, but would probably look good with lighter tones and suitable highlights. Would blue/cream be too bright for you? Mini looks awesome btw

i wish i had painted that mini. the skin color is pretty close to what i was thinking; that medium grey with blue-green undertones.

>i'm having trouble picturing a banner or shield beyond my initial idea of tan drab and dark black-green checks. does that even work? looking for ideas.
That can definitely work. Just stay away from the greens in your skintones and you are good to go.
Tan and dark green is a nice combo.

Started painting minis after a 10 years break, knowing that my 13 years old self was the worst painter ever.

How badly did I fuck up, /wip/ ?'

This monstruosity's back.

Looks pretty decent.
The wash on the armor plates is a little splotchy, but pretty solid over all.

Looks cool, but the white balance in the picture is off which makes the whole figure more yellow-toned than I think you intended. Neat stuff, though.

Generally at WIP, we value solid flat base colours, that have been highlighted and shaded. Your model looks muddy, but if you like it, then it's awesome. What do you want them to look like?

I think it looks pretty good. but it needs work on the agrax and keeping colours within their lines.

Would have gone with a bit more contrast between armor and fatigues but otherwise it's clean enough

Yeah my lamp gives it a very yellowish tone.

Thanks, I need to work on the washes, I haven't perfectly wrapped my head around it.

I'm afraid I've thinned my paints too much, I had trouble with getting an even layer of colors. Thanks tho. I also realized the picture I took are out of focus, which doesn't help.

Sup /wip/
Im building a IG army right now, and I'll probably be buying some Scions soon to fill out the force. Im just wondering, do Scions look good in traditional Cadia Green fatigues?
Also, what color paint exactly would you use to base, layer, and highlight the orange camo blobs on a traditional Cadian Kasrkin?

If you care to get it, GIMP lets you auto-balance the white levels for a "cleaner" image

Recently saved about 80% of my 15-year old paints. I'd say you're fucked on the metallic ones. The others: add (bottled/distilled) water drop by drop and stir with 2 toothpicks held together (that's how I did it at least)

In Vallejo colors, since the GW ones are oop it would be:
Cayman and camouflage green for the greens and terracotta/dark flesh for the patches with a bonewhite outline.

And I would like to ask what's that model.
I like berets.

This sucker came in the mail. Aside from being awful to fit together with only 4 pieces, I'm very pleased to finally have one. I think I may build it with exposed road wheels and running gear. This old russ kit has such nice wheels to be covered up.

I probably will just grab a white lamp next time, I should have one lying around.

It's a Tempestus Scion, they have a bunch of heads with berets and they're pretty cool. I decided to put one only on the sergent though, or all of them would end up without helmets...

Is that the OOP tank destroyer? Where did you get it for not £300?

40k has a severe lack of WW2-esque derpcannons, and my shock trooper guard need more firepower.

Thanks anons, I was planning something like a desert settlement lost to the elements or something like that.
Maybe a bit of a industrial, western feel?

So should I continue the sky blue marking? I'm not that good at it, but I also think they look ok without it.

>Finally get around to building my Primarch/not!Chaos Lord Perturabo
>Everything cleaned up, body and legs glued together
>prime
>want to stick him a bit into styrofoam to dry
>push a little bit too hard
>legs break off
fug
Tell me about your last mistakes, /wip/.

It is! I got it on ebay, I still spent 120$ on it. And, even if it's stats aren't the best I'm so happy. I've wanted one since they came out.

Been looking for that for quite some time, lucky you. I'll probably have to kitbash it from different kits and the irony is that buying 2 kits to do that is probably going to end up cheaper than buying one of the originals at this point.

How the fuck does my mini looks good and smooth with my eyeballs but all splotchy and segmented with my camera. What madness is this? I swear his skin is much better than how it looks like on the pic.

>Approaching final dry fitting of kitbash mech for Fools on Parade
>Scraping moldlines
>Cleaning flash
>Trimming bits fits
>Top of ankle needs to be clipped off to fit into foreleg knee hole
>Clip off top of foreleg
fug

I glued it back together and wound a load of thread around it to look like a bodge repair.
If it looks terrible at the end, I can greenstuff a leather wrapping or something instead.
Not best pleased about it though.

First space marines I've ever done. I'm going to get some transfers for their pauldrons as I can't free hand very well as you can see by some of the Roman numerals and such

what light do you paint under? sometimes that can make a big effect when looking at a mini under different conditions. for example, daylight lamps compared to standard bulbs can really change the contrast of your highlights

Harsher contrasts.
To eyeballs under normal light that will look great.
As it is, there's a certain cel-shaded look that is actually pretty cool.

Put him in the fridge, take another picture, post again. Or maybe it's just the setting of your camera.

Also trying to decide boltgun colors. 1, 2, or 3?

Have you sealed it yet?

3 manages to be a better contrast than 2 while blending in better than 1

I wonder if an olive or camo green color on the weapons would be better...

Wouldn't fit that much with the rest

If you're taking the picture with flash, it sharpens the contrast a lot and adds glare in places you don't expect.

The same light I took the picture in. Two monitors, light of the room, light on the room behind, and sunlight behind.
Yes, it looks cel shaded with my camera, but it's smooth with my eyes. I'm confused.
I wish, but I'm a student with a tiny, one light fridge. Well I took pic related with my friend's phone on the same setting and their skin looks identical to the naked eye, so perhaps it really is about the camera. But this is the best my phone can take, any other and the contrast is worse or it's too dark.
Noo, I'm far from finished with him. What does sealing do to the colours?

>Yes, it looks cel shaded with my camera, but it's smooth with my eyes. I'm confused.
Keep in mind that camera CCDs don't always see transparency and such the same way our eyes do (which is why many candy paints on models are really hard to capture in photos).
It could simply be seeing "through" partial layers and blends, paints are far from 100% opaque after all.

Image related as an example, this is pretty light and simple shiny looking, IRL it's a much deeper color and the blue turquoise has way more depth to it.

Post backlog
>tfw every day this week and next is below zero
>tfw had to drive through ~6in of snow
>tow still have to put a Mawloc together

what colour did you use for that bronze/gold trimming on the armour?

I've found that doing a gloss coat and then a dull coat of sealant tends to make blends appear less noticable and smooths out paintjobs as a whole. Unfortunately I don't have a before and after picture but I could try taking one sometime.
Except my local michael's hobby store is out of dull sealant.

Don't shade on flat armor bits, shade in the recesses where you won't notice the shade dry like a coffee stain

Can you prime/base coat plastic minis with a brush ? Been doing it on metal minis and it's been going fine, but I wonder if plastic or resin would work

Keep going, it's the only way your going to improve

For what purpose

i'm not under the impression that surface material matters that much for brush on primer. i've used gesso on different grades of plastic and metal with equal results.

Because it's a pain in the ass to have to set up a spray booth by near zero temperatures for a few minis and then having them take hours to dry because of humidity
Also with sprays I tend to miss spots and use too much paint, so some minis end up half bare, half clogged
So far I've been using the Citadel base ones on metal (ceramite white, charadon granite, something grey I don't remember which)
Guess I'll have to try it out to check

Thanks! I'm still newish to painting.

oh sorry, should mention my plan is to do a blue to purple to black transition on the tassels. Also haven't shaded the bone areas with sepia yet.

15mm sculpting continues.
Shield needs surface texturing,sword needs doing and he needs some hair but he's almost done.

I like the idea of a spaghetti western setting with steampunk highlights. Please post pictures when you finish it.

Leadbelcher, washed with agrax eartshade and highlighted with stormhost silver. I suspect my yellowish lamp lightbulb is making it look far more bronze than it actually is.

>Dunnmahglass

If you are looking for a roleplaying game like that but also with a fair bit of supernatural, check out Deadlands.

I also just started painting minis as well. My first tac squad Blood Angel is the worst. All I did was thin my paints and follow some guides and youtube tutorials. It helped me out a bunch. Good luck, user. May your coats be thin, your metallics be full of luster and your neck be bearded.

I have trouble properly painting detail at 28mm and here you are sculpting little tiny details at 15mm

For metalics, I've been using the Vallejo liquid metals. So glad I am, the coats are super smooth!

Mostly just been using washes and dry brushing. I got my energy effect by stippling turquoise over black and painting nuln oil over it. Then I went lightly back over it with turquoise and violet. Pretty proud of how it looks.

practice user. I'm sure your mini's are great.

Try emailing Geedubs or Warhammer TV for answers?

Which stripper is better for metal models? Got some sisters not too long ago and was wondering if Simple Green or Non-Acetone nail polisher would be better.

Where on the belt do Tau Fire Warrior customization bits typically go? is it closer to the front belt buckle or more under the armpit, or all the way beneath the backpack?

Dry fitting them is a bitch since I haven't done any gluing at all yet, so I'm not sure where they can go without blocking other parts.

When dealing with metal models, shouldn't any strong alcohol suffice? Not like you could melt something.

Hey anons got a question about green stuff sculpting.
I read the guides; I was just wondering if the details circled in red on my pic would be too finicky to be captured in a green stuff/mill putty mix... also the best place to buy liquid blue stuff and the mill putty. Thanks!

>What do you think their actual space marines look like? I'm guessing black with red pauldrons.
Black and Maroon, according to the wiki site. The Lexicanum on the other hand says "Sombre grey", and gives a source: the Devastation of Baal novel, Chapter 10. So I'd guess they're right.

Also, there's apparently a picture of one of their Fellblades from the FW books, which looks more like having "traditional" colours for BA successors, namely black and a dark red/maroon.
warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/File:Charnel_Guard_Fellblade_Mori_Drakka.jpg

Greenstuffworld has all of this kind of stuff, and isn't really expensive. Don't know about transport to the US/UK, if you're from there.

Hair motherfuckers.

My eyes hurt.

>Casting Skitarii parts
Godspeed, user. Not a fun task, I speak from experience. I think Greenstuff would work but it's much more expensive than liquid plastics.

>Lost industrial froniter ghost town
>spaghetti western setting with steampunk highlights
I'm fully down for either option, that sounds wicked.

You mentioned you were sending your figures in for professional molding, how'd that go?

Snowy objective marker/tunnel rat deployment marker, along with some landmines. I've had an on-off relationship with GW texture paints, but this snow stuff is incredible - it does a great job of hiding my shitty paintjobs.

Aaaand forgot image.