/wip/ thread

Neat red, how'd you do it? Shame you didn't end up going for the helmet, though.

I've been thinking I probably will go for brown on the tabbard.
The red is mephiston, carroburg wash then a mix of wild rider and mephiston with an edge highlight of pure wild rider. In the end my enjoyment for painting faces just got the better of me, there will be a helmet on his belt though

Not a lot of progress but I should ask before I proceed I feel. Finally painting Malakim Phoros and his golden armor. I think I overwashed it making all the gold look like bronze so I am hoping all the highlighting will bring back the gold colour. I got most of the left leg done, thinking I need to add more silver streaks. Also thinking of adding the Lementers Heart symbol to that kneepad. Not sure how I want to do the robes and in what colour but I feel like it needs some sort of checker pattern.

Also is it just me or is the paint too thick?

Flayed one Flesh maybe better for that colour than Ushabti. Looks like Agrax was used to the wash as well as Seraphim Sepia. As for the sponge? It really looks like they just sponged on more Flayed One but white would be a good choice. The more egg colour though better represents primer I think.

Doing some old figures but don’t know how to base. Do people use sand, kitty litter? How to do basic ground?

upside down...

weird

Little bit of fine sand, and static grass. Paint the sand first then put patches of grass down. It will look nice and varied and be super cheap and easy.

Just finished my first ever mini!

Turned out far better than I had even hoped desu, really proud of it. A lot of the detail is lost in the pic, it's not as bright yellow irl (it's averland). Wish I could do the cannons better but hey-ho, it'll come with time.

Well done lad.

You're either an idiot or very brave for your first model being something like that, it's turned out great though, you should definitely feel proud of that. looking forward to seeing more

Thanks dudes

>You're either an idiot or very brave
Can't I be both? I think I've found so far that I'm better with the larger models, I've had to do more corrections on my fireblade's rifle than I had to do on the entirety of the ghostkeel. In any case, the ghostkeel was the model I fell in love with so I wanted to get to it asap, I love the design of it so much.

many ways to do this, just my suggestion:

put fine gravel on the bases using PVA glue
give plenty of time to dry then paint it black
then base coat in whatever colour you want it
apply shade/wash or ink or whatever
finally highlight with a drybushing

great job

good to see so many firsttimer painters posting their stuff, very welcome to all

Same user, doing old necro stuff too. For bases would the best route be the same material painted grey? A little balsa wood to look like metal plates?

how in the fuck do you edge highlight
do I need a finer brush?

my second trueborn guy. Thank God the Google phone has a good camera so I know where to cleanup. All I've really worked on is Chad's and
DG so The kabal/ dark elf fantasy range is gonna be a blast to work with.

Yes

okay, thanks user. i appreciate it.

I once was making an Eldar Corsair force and had a lot of fun mixing eldar, dark eldar and dark elf bits. You can make some pretty cool looking dudes and it looks like you're on the right track. Just make sure to clean up mold lines.
Ended up stopping and selling the force to someone in Japan, though. RIP.

nice splinter rifle ontop of the hand crossbows, might have to try that for the squad leader. and yeah i do have a bunch of mouldline cleanup here before i prime. though its been so cold recently i dont even know when i can prime.

Dude just shave the gorgut on the chestplate down if it's giving you issues.

Please add Work in Progress to the thread name next time.

tried freehanding some symbols onto the helmet to match the patterns on the armour, think it looks alright?

Yout technique is good but i dont think those symbols are appropraite for the space marine aesthethic. It would look good on eldar or tau though.

Back looks good. Front looks like you stroked out.

it's based on the word bearer 30k transfers (pic related), most of my guys are covered in them, they definitely work better on larger flat areas.
yea I agree

ayyyy

Working on my weirdboy. Yes I know this is a conversion nine gorillian people have made, but I tried to make him a bit unique. Any other ways I might be able to make him look a bit more 40k-ish and less AoS-ish?

...

maybe give him shoes, or some armour plates.
I think the big metal head think makes it look pretty 40k as it is though

Bolt plate to the head and a plasma reactor on his back. Make the color flow from his hand magic to his back pack plasma coils, like he is trying to contain it. Add in some wires zappin around. Ded orky techno grubins and da shooty bitz.

And the classic spacemarine helmet on the base.

Remove the huge tusks on the hood.
Remove all the oomie skulls and replace them with glyphs or other gubbins
Maybe a grot or snot under foot.
Don't be a git.

I think I'm okay with the robe, and the no-shoes as well.
The reactor would look a little weird over the robe, but I do like the bolts in the head idea.
And alas, I have no spare Space marine helmets.
The tusks are gonna go probably.
I already replaced the metal bits with glyphs, I think the skulls will stay.
Don't have any spares sadly
sayz you, you stinkin runt

I'm making an exarch for one of my dire avenger squads based off of this picture. I should really just make copies of this head because it's really good for female Eldar.

Where is the head from? It really is a damn good one.

It's from the Sorceress on Black Dragon kit

hows my Ahriman looking /wip/? not the best lighting, or painting, but im happy with it so far.

Thanks

Hi /wip/, any idea on how yo convert this fella into a primaris?

to* ffs

I'd base him off a primaris model instead, just swap the head over, sculpt all the detail again.
it's far too much effort and to even attempt it is madness

I tried to do the fw scheme for the aquilon, how does it look ?

gold looks nice, looks quite old.

I'm gonna test an idea I had. Streaming myself painting at twitch dot tv/spurdozeppeli
Come if you want, don't if you don't. I'll probably test this out for an hour or so

You don't, Pedro is perfection.
I mean, you could take a primaris captain and work with some greenstuff if you want, the backbanner and some of the detail may be copyable with blue/greenstuff.
But please don't be the git who cuts such a great model up.

Does anyone here have experience with sculpting using putty (on armatures)?
I tried it recently but it ended up looking like the Thing because everything stuck when I didn't want it to and didn't when I did. Extremely frustrating, with none of the gradual gratification you get from applying even the thinnest coats of paint to the trickiest models.
What advice would you give someone who wants to start learning how to sculpt? Any online resources would be gratefully appreciated too.

People cutting up old OOP metal models need to be crucified. I'm fine with replacing certain parts if they are made to be detachable, but cutting up stuff? Big no no from me. Get a resin cast for that, don't desecrate the model.

Pedro isn't OOP is he though?

He's still being made, but in finecast. So technically, his metal model is OOP, hence the sacrilege of cutting him up. Better to do that with a resin model.

Alright but I don't think user was talking about the metal.
Resin is easier to convert, and easier to get ahold of.

today, I got these things.

Well, similar to painting you want to work in layers. When using an Armature or even regular green stuff you want to make the base layer let it cure completely and then start on the next layer. Work in small patches and let all of your work dry completely so you don't put a finger in something you just sculpted.

You motherfucker. Do you live Japan? If not, how did you do and how much did it cost you?

Also, see if you can find some silicone clay shapers, extra firm. They are excellent tools excellent tools and do not stick to the putty.

I live in Korea, and I received it for free as an event.

Definitely jealous.

Spending a more time doing this than I expected, still streaming now if anyone's interested.
twitch dot tv/spurdozeppeli

Thanks for the advice.
I know I fucked up by mixing several different bundles of putty (the same type mind you, I'm not that bad) for the arms, legs, torso, etc. Only the torso stuck well, but the arms and legs were a nightmare and kept falling off.
Would you say it's best to put one layer on the whole body at a time, or layer by layer the portions of the body?

And good to know about the silicone. I have metal and plastic dentist-looking things, never considered silicone.
Thanks again for the advice, I'll just keep cracking at it.

You are acting too purist. It is not like he is destroying the last OOP model in the world.

So I've used the same bottle of super glue for like two years now, and it's letting me down now. Glue has caked up around the needle nose to such an absurd extent that I can no longer apply small amounts of glue.

What should I upgrade to?

another bottle of the same brand?

Hey Brothers, SSanon here.
Sorry for the late reply, I've been really busy the last days. But now I'm back to work so I can focus on important stuff again
I answered lots of emails so far, if you did not get an answer to your inquiry, please resend it. Also if the dudes who didn't receive anything so far could shoot me an email, that'd be great.
Also updated the imgur, hope I didn't miss anything.
Hope all of you guys had great holidays and I wish you all a Happy New year!

Pattex gel never failed me

Loctite gel if you can get it. Much prefer it to runnier regular super glue.

This is the same glue btw, I once opened the plastic packaging of a pattex glue and there was a loctite tube inside.
Best glue!

Priming my Bloab Rotspawned today and I'm wondering on how to paint him. Do I go for his original colours or do I paint him to match my army? My army's colours are based on Horus Heresy era Death Guard (bone white with dirty green).

...

seems like the studio scheme is a pretty good fit already then

those little squeezy things on the side are irritating though

>Bloab Rotspawn
Goddamn these nurgle names keep getting more and more silly.

Gotta avoid those copyrights issues. At least 40k got a few Latin sounding names.

Make him Mr Bloabby

Damn good model there user. Especially for first go

THat looks decent.
How did you do the weathering?

I've seen a bunch ofmasterclass-type guides recommend you go:
Stick figure
Tiny bit of bulk (to provide a working surface)
Shape basic musculature (so now it looks like an artist's posing mannequin)
Layer on specific musculature (so bulging biceps for a strong man)
Fat layers (so a big belly if fat etc., in the same sort of order and repetitiveness)

Only once the model is basically in the right shape for the person you want to sculpt do you start putting in serious work on making him actually look like a person with a face and fingers, and then clothes pretty much last.

Why do retards think shouting "thin your paints" at every mini they see makes them a better painter?

Because it will actually make a difference. It is very important to thin your paints after all is said and done.

Heresy! The squeezy things are the best part! Such control!

Also keep led dit at led dit

looks like wordbearers daemonic sigils

Because that's what they're inspired from, as user said.

Sounds good thanks.

Hey /wip could you give me a hint how to highlight this guys robe? I used vallejo stonewall grey, should I use plain white for this?

Also I retouched it with the base color after nuln oil application, seems like I should reapply some of it on his knuckles. Is this a correct way?

Because most of the time a bad paintjob is a result of paints being so thick that they destroy the detail of the model.

It looks close enough to white that a plain bright white would probably do. If it's too bright, mixing bright white with that shade of white-grey is the answer.

And no offence but you should think your paints. It's passable enough in most places but the skirt and the axe especially need thinning, Not to condescend either but did you shake the metal paint before using it?

You inadvertently also just helped me figure out what the fucking that weird torso I had laying around was. Been too long since my Dark Elves have seen play T.T

Well then, painting intellectuals, can you actually give us a bit more than a Duncan meme and give some good tips on loading your brush and controlling flow correctly?

Thin paints with water, use a wet palette to control how much paint is on your brush, paint with the stroke, not the tip.

Use a palette and get a good bit on the end of your brush like this, not too much, now you'll just want to be as neat as you can with this next bit... like... this...

I didn't really pay it much mind until I actually painted a figure with the intention of needing at least four thin coats of everything after the first base skin'cloth/metal layers.

It really does make that much of a difference.

Might just be the bright light, but I think it looks plenty light enough.
Maybe shade/wash and then re-hilight?
Might just be my plebian over-reliance on skill-in-a-bottle talking though.