WIP - Work In Progress General

>WIP Secret Santa unboxings
imgur.com/a/qS7PH

>WIP Secret Santa Poll:
strawpoll.me/14692516

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

Other urls found in this thread:

wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Dark_Reaper
solegends.com/citrt/Wd106p17EldarHarlequins-02.jpg
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

painting my astral knights primaris, should i go
army painter black primer ->leadbelcher ->agrax->ironbreaker
or
army painter black primer ->leadbelcher ->ironbreaker->agrax
or
army painter gun metal ->agrax->ironbreaker
also agrax or nuln?

If you have an airbrush, do Black primer then metal.

However they have a very shiny metal colour, I don't really get why you want to use agrax. You're better off using Nuln Oil Gloss diluted with Lahmian Medium imo.

agrax was the first one that came to mind for some reason.

Addendum: You could even go for a brighter metal. Mithril Silver, Stormcast Silver, what have you. Leadbelcher is quite dark after all.

Will finish these faggots sunday. Not sure if I should overdo the interior

Arrived this morning, picture courtesy of fiancé, not back until 12th.

Thanks user, having to wait is tearing the child in me up inside, just to let you know it's here!

Also these. Can't believe I almost finished (6 years in the making)
>pls respond

The Imperial Guard Carpark still represent a viable armylist?

lmao I made this list in 2008, when the 5th edition codex was just out. Bought every model at Maelstrom Games.
Actually never played it. Probably will never play it

How is that painted? That's a clean basecoat at best.

Doesn't really show that well here, but there are subtle hightlighting and drybrushing.
Also the (white gas based) washes aren't done yet, I had to finish all the details before (hence the WIP). They will strenghten the highlights after

Not the guy you were replying to but I share his concern.
Have you any experience modelling historical tanks? Those tanks look like that's what you were going for, but as they stand they look, while technically accomplished, like they stand halfway between the stereotypically gaudy wargame style and the subtler historical style.
If you want some inspiration for how to proceed, look that up, it's where the high-end vehicle skill is more than 40k. It's also a good way to practice your schemes, you can get 1/72 tanks (and any scale compared to 40k) for very cheap, and there's always something funny about seeing a teeny T72 in space marine colours.

Fucked up and held them by the edges when I was mostly finished, now I have to go back and fix the chips

>like they stand halfway between the stereotypically gaudy wargame style and the subtler historical style.

kill yourself they look fine

Besides
>Also the (white gas based) washes aren't done yet, I had to finish all the details before (hence the WIP). They will strenghten the highlights after
I should add that they will be gloss varnish to endure the washes. Gloss varnish increases the contrasts
Doesn't really show here, sorry for crap pics. They look bland 2bh

thanks, they'll turn way way better after finishing the details

second'ed

Calm down friendo, I complimented him on his skill, I'm just throwing out a stylistic point in terms of colour for consideration. If you look at the bronze/gold parts on the back they're as bright as Sigmarines, while the camo is notably pale compared to the average 40k vehicle and even historical vehicles.
I'm curious to know his paint choices.

Do you mean white spirits or is that the American name for it? If not, what's the difference between white gas and white spirits?
In my experience, gloss varnish doesn't bring out contrasts that much, but I do know that a pale colour like your main scheme will look a lot more viscerally "complete" than it does now when it has washing and weathering done.

Does anybody have any tips or tricks for making quick makeshift battle mats? Basically I will have the house to myself for 3 months and I'm planning on taking every table in the house to one room and making a mega table. (I've done it before and ended up with and maxed at an approx. 6 square meter table.) The problem is the wood colour is kind of shit.

I have bought a very large dark brown bed sheet and some spray paint today. My plan was to randomly spray the sheet lightly with greys and blacks to break up the uniformity and mottle it. I just need something quick and easy to cover the table since I have enough terrain to cover a lot of the board. Reckon this would work?

>Do you mean white spirits or is that the American name for it? If not, what's the difference between white gas and white spirits?
I'm French, and I use a washing method of "essence F" (lighter fluid) + oil paint (taught to me by "Steel Masters" / "Wing Masters" magazines modelists). Very thin, dry way quicker than white spirit + enamels and also 0 interaction with plastic and acrylics

Again my pics are crappy, here is another one (earlier) where I hope you can see a contrast?

Weathering will be done will multiple layers of white gas + oil paints

>moving to new place
>4 hours away
>don't know about living conditions at friends house
>decide to not bring my 40k stiff until settled in
>they furnished a table for me and everything cause they thought I would bring my miniatures
>fuck
>end up just watching Netflix on my phone and noodling on my guitar
Sometimes I wonder if I'm ever going to finish my army

Impressive stuff, better results than white spirits. You clearly know what you're doing.
Mind if I ask what kind of paints you're using?

Thanks.
I used Tamiya little paint spray cans, and Tamiya /Mr. Hobby acrylics w/ airbrush
One spray can will paint you about 6 tanks iirc

should work, its basically what we did to our playing board, just started with a dark brown and work your way lighter and lighter in random locations

get some wooden blocks and a plastic sheet and you can spray yourself road grids

OP makes me want to see the bestworst botched figures and paints, show me what you got

Pic hopefully unrelated, one of my own and my first

So what's this about a backlog/SS group build?

This is the last thing I did before stopping painting years ago. I haven't gotten around to stripping it yet.

It's mediocre and not table ready, but not terrible. The paint is mostly where its supposed to be and doesn't look thick.

don't look bad tough

solid basecoat

Right, take a look at that photo. Notice anything a bit off about it? Does it really show us how the mini looks? Maybe you should try taking another photograph. Hell, perhaps you should even have looked at your photo before posting it in the first place, and gone straight to the unfucked one instead.

what if I wanted it to be bad so you guys couldn't fully understand just how bad things really were?

Finishing up a squad of Thunder hammers made with the guys from Dark Vengeance. Just a few little things to do here and there.

What do you guys do when you want to sub-assembly your minis arms? I have real trouble sometimes painting mini's chests if they have arms up holding a weapon over their chest. Do you stick the arm onto a pin or something?

cut off a bit of naked sprue

put blu tack on the end

stick spess mahreen arm to blu tack

What does Veeky Forums think of the pooperscooter I made?

My Typhus so far. Had to use flash because the room lighting snd the model itself are too dark now for good photos with my shitty phone.

Anyone know where I can buy some anchors, steering wheels, masts, etc? Nautical themed stuff I can use for some converting.

pinkeye/10

awesome job

He looks very excited to be fighting for the plague father. Also good job, the armour looks great!

I mean, you've primed black, slapped some metal and a blue coat. Where are the washes? Where are the highlights? I've got tons of models in the same state, none of them can be considered finished.

Get your paint and your brushes user, you are not done yet.

these look awesome. I particularly like the chest aquilas/wings. put em in the fridge for a better pic!

great conversion! paintings a little rough

Thanks! It's exactly what I was hoping people would say with the eye painted on instead of a lense.

I think you can get away with it on nurgle units. Tends to seem intentional.

I mean there's "intentionally dirty looking" and dousing a model in every green wash you own... Then again, maybe it's the flash. Shove it in the fridge, flash tends to turbofuck how a model looks, makes the mistakes that'll never be noticed in real light apparent.

My attempt at OSL went way too far and fucked up one of my favorite models.
Looks like his sword is make of cheese now with an aura of dust.

All is cheesedust....

I think it's great user

look at the Krieger though, it's doused in too much wash too - paint is also thicc in a few areas

Just finished my first model.

increase the contrast on the sword to stop it looking like cheddar.

more white yellow on the raised detail/more red orange on the blade

Noice. The teeth and mouth are a great centrepiece, the armour effect is perfectly done, I like the egg look on the missiles.
You're probably aware that the bloodshot eyes are too wide and defined, but the face does hold together because of how good the rest of the eye and face is.
You might want to consider giving the egg-missiles a kind of speckling with a drybrush, and the bone-vent things on the top might look more impressive with a slightly brighter highlight? These aren't necessary changes though.
Good model overall, thumbs up.

Just finished basecoating Cawl's hydraulic claw thingy.

Next up is shading, but I don't know what to do. Nuln for red and agrax for the everything else, or should I just apply agrax to the red as well?

Only using agrax would make it far less tedious but I don't know if agrax on khorne red works.

this It's not too hard a fix to make, particularly when the OSL effect (which is good) has an orangey-red tint that doesn't show up so much on the blade itself. Good luck.

...

Not bad, not bad at all.
The colour scheme is quite understated in terms of contrast, the green is very close to the blue, something you could do that wouldn't be too difficult is to highlight the blue extremities with a brighter shade of blue, the beak could do with a colour like there is on the fingers.
You could also afford to try higher contrast on the rest of the model, the teeth on the gun could do with using some more transitional shades. The browny colour on the front tooth looks good, but something in between that and the majority colour of the tooth would make the whole tooth look more defined if you had the transitional colour as the dominant colour, with the brown in the recesses and the white more prominent.
Keep going on with the rest of what you have, you'll get good soon enough I think.

FUCK YOU, ME NOT WANT ADVICE ME WANT PEW PEW

White armour. Just think about how light works. If the ambient light is bright enough for the armour to look white then adding a bit of glow isn't going to suddenly make the armour look orange. Think about using a projector in a light room, it doesn't work until the lights are off and the white screen looks black. Light is additive, so the area subject to the glow should never be darker than the area around it or it will look ridiculous. This is my main problem with a lot of OSL attempts.

I did notice that the green and blue were a bit close.
I have a shitload of Kroot, so I decided to practice on them, what colours do and don't work together, technique, etc.
Thanks for the advice, and I'm gonna stick to it. If not for the enjoyment I get out of making something, then for my righteous belief in the sunken cost fallacy.
I actually started another model before this one, but gave up when I found out that Fire Warriors are super boring to paint, and Kroot are way more fun and look cooler.

It is too defined I agree, for some reason I can't seem to get smaller lines. I'll have to practice more and i'll definitely add a brighter highlight to the bone vents. The speckling I might add aswell bit for now I really like the snow white. Thanks for the kind words.

Bad

dude be a little more constructive - user is trying

Where is that Hydra turret from?

Forge World, the Hydra used to be resin only before the plastic kit.

>for some reason I can't seem to get smaller lines
A smaller brush, it really is that simple.

Pic related/10

Got some of that cheap push mould material you boil in water, will report back what the results are eventually. Looking good so far.

That's indeed the pic I based my eye on and totally messed up the bloodshot veins. Ah well, practice makes perfect.

Well yeah but the problem I'm having is Paint drying up stupidly quick on the small bristles.

I put my Typhus in the fridge like user suggested. Does he look any better?

Strange, on such a small surface, painting such small lines. If it really is a problem for you, consider getting a fluid retarder, I have a Winsor and Newton (aka Galeria) fluid retarder and it's almost annoying how slow things dry with it.

Here he is. Painted this up last night and woke up with a cold. Thank you Papa Nurgle. Base isn't done, I'm waiting for some mud making supplies from Amazon

Lel looks like it was rummaging in your fridge and you caught it. Good job though

I think he looks a lot better. The wood grainy texture is cool

I'd put him a little farther from the light, the shadows are a bit sharp because of that. Looks pretty cool, though, really like the scythe.

Much better!

I really like it. How did you do it?

seriously dramatic difference! he looks great, and i was critical before

Dear lord it's like a night and day difference. This is so much better.

Its just cutting the scythe from the right hand and closing the left's fingers around it. Very easy conversion.

I'll try the fluid retarder. Thanks for the suggestion buddy.

Gave me a hearty chuckle.

Forgot to add that your Herald looks good with the super purple innards.

almost there

Not sure if this is the place to ask, but it is a SIP, so just let me know if I'm out of lile, but can anyone identify what this guy is? I got him for free from a buddy, I though he was an old metal Dark Eldar, but I can't find any pictures of this model. Help a nibba out /wip/?

(p.s. yes i know my painting is trash)

wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Dark_Reaper

>almost there

Stay on target.

Sorry, I meant the wood-like effect.

That is an old Death Jester from the first Harlequin release

Huge thank you man. I had just assumed because of the skull he wasn't regular Eldar.

99% sure that's a very old harlequin Death Jester:

solegends.com/citrt/Wd106p17EldarHarlequins-02.jpg

GW killing WFB will not stop my Bretonnian army.
I just need to find someplace where IXth age is played.

Really dig the Knight with the two hander, where is that model from?

Fridgeposting works, man. Looks fantastic!

Thought I'd post where I'm at with my bloat drone. Plan on finishing the green and the highlights on the eye tonight after work, after all that comes the brass

MOM miniaturas
They are dirt cheap and have most WF factions covered.

>and others
You guys are such hypocrites. The second photo looks better indeed, but the first one reweal entire paintjob.

What are we supposed to judge here if not that?

The models looks great. Sudden shift of opinions is silly.

Damn. Okay thats pretty good.

who made this model
whats it called
help

seeing something "in a new light" is a commonly used expression for a reason bud. The first pic really highlighted areas of thicc paint and overly pooled wash, but the second gave a better impression of how the overall effect of the paintjob presents to the eye. Don't be dweeb, slav

i love that one on the far left, where he from?

What warband is he? Some sort of malal? I like the colour choices. If you want to 'fix' your osl attempt youd better be careful lest you make what you see as a mistake but most wont into a new mistake that everyone can see. Personally I think its fine really, although most minis dont need OSL