WIP: Work in Progress Thread

I like the color choices, except maybe for the super-blue orc. I think a more greenish-blue would have worked better.

I think the boar beard and the orruk sculpts in general look like shit
But the painting is clean and well thought out
Is that glow from his eye, or a tattoo? If it's glow, it's not bright enough at the start, it looks like the same colour all over. If it's a tattoo, it's too faint.
The chainmail could do with a little bit of definition from a wash
I'd also say that the boars mouth looks, well, dry. I don't know if adding a glaze would give it the right amount of "wetness", but that's all I can think of to change it

Any suggestions on painting scorch marks over dark areas? Would love to give the hull a couple laser burns.

Also first vehicle I’ve ever painted, feedback welcome (although the lighting is poor and I overdid it on the corrosion).

Who else /Comfywithabeerandabigpotofsoupsimmeringwhileitscoldoutside/?

Painting some more of my bearers, parts of my first ever army that I'm calling "Gurgoopulplex the Plague-hued and his technicolor horde." G-plex will be my GUO, whenever I get one. These are grey-blue with a makeshift coelia greenshade. Gonna have greenish innard bits and good amounts of rot

TOP
FUCKING
PERCENTAGE

>Assembling SoS
>Accidentaly glue right arm on before the left
youtube.com/watch?v=WWpZC1bKfX8

Has anyone ever painted or modelled a space marine with decorated parts in a wood effect?
I was wondering specifically if a bolter with wooden trim would look interesting and whether there was any clever or inventive way to relate the wooden "furniture" of the bolter to the rest of the model's trim and so on.
If so any pics would be appreciated.

Starting to paint this.

Holy shit its my first time with 1:72 scale infantry, vehicles are one thing but man doing the cammo pattern in models the size of a coin sure will be a bitch.

wish me luck and also is welcome.

>start painting left breast
>She gets assblasted
>Start painting right breast
>She wants the D

>eye
I wanted to make it a eye glow, but not much of an idea on how to do it better? can you maybe eleborate on how to improve it?
>chainmail
on it boss
>mouth
probably gonna smear some ardcoat into there

thanks for the good response

*advice.

Also don't mind the cammo the worst part are going to be the faces.

The way I know to do osl is to take some really thin paint of whatever your chosen colour is and paint it around wherever you want lit
Then you take a wet clean brush and smooth the paint into nothingness as it gets further from the source
You start with a medium-light tone and gradually add more layers of thin, thin paint until you're happy with the effect or you feel like you need to make the paint more pronounced at the source and use something brighter
youtube.com/watch?v=UDtCzRfzMpo
Basically I just do this but use different/less colours and apply it to a way smaller area
I also make it look way worse because I'm retarded and have the shivers but that's neither here nor there

I painted up some Hasslefree models recently with a thought of using them as proxy stuff in either Malifaux or Inq28.
Now I'm angry that well-sculpted humanly-proportioned miniatures are effectively unuseable with my games of choice because lolaesthetic.

Looks bretty gud man.
Even better, you actually delivered - top cunt.
What's the model/bits?

I wish I was comfy with soup.
It's so fucking cold in my flat that I can't actually bring myself to sit at the table and paint.

It looks great for a first attempt, much better than my hideous rhino (though apples and oranges kinds of models tbf).
No particular criticism, except the usual "drill your barrels" and "thin your paints" kneejerk responses. How would you describe how you approached this model's paintjob, and how conscientious you thought you were with the building up of the layers? Might just be the pic, but it looks just ever so slightly grainy. That however does work to its favour as a vehicle in my opinion, especially the combined wear/shading effect on the lower plate, because the layering itself is thin enough to keep it on the right side of the uncanny valley.
Now for the praise:
>good control, good placement of paint
>the scheme works
>the glowing effect on the gun (very nice, well done)
Suggestions: I think you were very conservative with your highlighting and the tones in general. You could afford to be bolder with your highlighting, especially on the red lenses, the metal rivets (they need to stand out IMO), the flat panels, and the tan/khaki legs.
The leg colour might work better if it was a brighter base colour, with more pronounced highlights. You could also put washes on it to create an effect that is *overall* a similarly dark shade of tan on the legs, but have more room for effective dirt, rust, and damage.
The flat face panels definitely need a sharp edge highlight along the plates, and (though it might be shadow from the way the picture was taken), the red stripe seems very dark and not really "cut clean through" the underlying blue colour. You might consider brightening that up to contrast with the nice dark blue-grey main colour, or at least highlight the border of the stripe.
The OSL effect on the gun is good, but the gun could more effectively draw the eye if the OSL effect was more pronounced. You definitely have the skill for it, from what I can see of it, so I'd suggest making the light "bleed" a bit more onto the surrounding area.

The boar looks phenomenal and I love the ork skin. The highlights look really sloppy though like you struggled to paint straight lines. I would definitely use your layer colors to make the highlights thinner.

How do you paint skin colors other than brown and caucasian with out it becoming a racist caricature? For example, if one was going to paint samurai, would you do a paint mix of 1 flesh color and 1/2 yellow?

I paint them with abbadon black and the lips mephiston red with ceramite white eyes.

Starting to paint my fyreslayers. Any good tips for cleanly painting their runes?

Work with super thin glazes of yellow/red/purple over something close to the shade you want. Skin benefits from some variegation and as long as you don't paint your samurai Simpsons yellow no one you want to talk to will shit on you for the effort.

>What's the model/bits?
Its the Oniwaban dude from Infinity.

Let me tell you dude, there's nothing like a huge pot on the stove for hours to heat up an apartment. I've got windows open and I'm sweatin my damn tits off

Here's a palette breakdown someone did specifically in reference to painting scale models:

coolminiornot.com/articles/1310

Should I stop opening my mailbox every day hoping to find my SS at this point? I was part of the first wave and I'm starting to think I got grinched. Plus Santanon didn't respond.
>tfw another year, another grinching.

Yeah, it's a tough question.
With the official citadel paints there seem to be only four skin tones:
>pale white
>tanned/mediterranean
>black (literally one highlight away from leather)
>grey vampire
Everything else takes a lot of effort to get right. I tried doing Indian colour and it turned out halfway between Trump halfway mulatto. I wouldn't even know where to begin with Asian skin.

I would say the same, but I was informed mine would be shipping late and canada post is a bitch.

whoever is shipping to Winnipeg for initials SW though, is it on its way?
Also slowly making progress on my IG, I am not in any way going fast as I almost have 3 complete models in 2 months.

Does someone know a decent way of taking pictures of 15mm and smaller stuff with a phone cam? I mean outside of buying a stupid magnifying lense for phones.

>I want to put tiny LED screens in my Kastelans to put emojis on them.
Do it.
I'm going to pick some up soon with that sweet Christmas cash.

>Crossposting old thread
>Cool Kastelans
I'm hoping to do pic related with them.
Actually a similar colour scheme to , Going to test out doing a black undercoat and as light a white spray as I can manage over the crackle, then sepia, see if it works.

I'll have to actually assemble them and find a suitable batch of test models, of course...

To get that wear effect on the colour blocks, would it be a matter of drybrush-stippling the colour on?

Do you want scars or magic/fine glow?

Very cool model.
Now I'm trying to think up ways I can justify buying it to use in Malifaux...

>mfw I got monday off for MLK day, yesterday off for weather, and tomorrow off for weather
I can get so much shit done

Ten Thunders?
Asian Lady (male) Justice?

I was thinking Torakage, but I guess he's a bit chunkier than the average Malifaux mini, so making him a Henchman or Master would probably look better.
Interesting that I can't bring any male ninja characters to mind.

he'll probably actually be smaller than most malifaux minis since they're on the larger end of 32mm scale.

Now that you mention it I picked up the Dragon Lady Imperial Judge for use as an Oiran (I'm someday going to go full S&S with Misaki).
She looks ok in the blister, but she got packed away in a tidy up, haven't gotten around to her.

Like a fine glow from some of the metal bits

After cleaning up his feet from drybrushing the base and giving him some toe nails, I think I'm done with this. I need to get back to my Mailfaux stuff or else my unpainted pile for the game is going to grow.

...

I actually meant fire glow, so:
Paint the inside of the brazier staff bits yellow, then fairly deep in orange, then red around the rim and the brazier.
Black over most of the red, leaving a bit near the gaps for the fire, then silver/brass over the black and the edge of the red.

If you wanted to do the scars as fiery glowing inlaid runes you could try the same progression from the edges/corners to the middle, though I'd be tempted to start at orange.

Looks like you're right, probably shorter and not much stockier.
Fine for a ninja though.

Decent.
How do you do your battered metal?

Leadbelcher, agrax earthshade and p3 quicksilver
Apply belcher, hit with agrax, reapply leadbelcher and highlight with quicksilver, reapply agrax in certain spots to ease the blend

Finished up with my Weirdboy conversion.

I tried to go with a stormcloud look, where only parts of the cloud are bright. How'd it look?

Not bad my man, Maybe check out a gemstone guide and give a little pop to the monocle and gemin the staff.

>monocle
That's supposed to be an eye...

Something feels missing

shading and highlighting? I don't see much depth to the minis, maybe cause of the lighting/color

A nice agrax earthshade bath

They look great. But I would suggest adding another dry brush step to your bases, and perhaps some grass tufts.

Prepare your bases the way you have been, up until you dry brush. Put a heavy dry brush of Fenrisian grey, and then do your final dry brush with your light grey, or swap it out for a warmer colour, like Tyrant Skull.

Gamer Grass make a burnt grass tuft that will look perfect on your bases. Go check them out.

Have shaded and highlighted to the best of my shit abilities.

Aim of the models was to create an easy scheme that is super quick to do.

Feel like another colour could go on somewhere.

Oh this is great, thank you user!

Didn't even think about the base

Needs a recess shade of Agrax or Nuln.

You're welcome.

Here is the base of an imperial knight that I did recently. This is using a mix of cold blue greys and warmer beige colours. It also has the gamer grass tufts on it.

Can see what you mean with the grass now, really gives it a lot.

Interesting that you've used blue and beige, but guess the slight colour really stands above a plain grey

It's hard to see in the photo, but it really does make a difference. Don't be afraid to try different colours. Sometimes, making things look interesting is far better than trying to make them look real.

>Sometimes, making things look interesting is far better than trying to make them look real.

>implying grey is realistic

I tihnk the good thing about 40k as a setting is it's so large basically anything is possible as far as planets go so 'realism' isn't really that important

yeah just saying. Even if you limit yourself to our own dirtball there is an insane amount of variety.

Basing your stonework with any off white, blue, brown, green etc before moving in with a grey drybrush also helps make them look more natural.
Black-grey-white tends to look pretty dead. visually just not very interesting.

What reading/videos would you recommend to a complete beginner? I just got a decent set of brushes and paints for Christmas and I'm trying to git gud.
The paint is Testors (enamel), which I've heard isn't quite as good as arcylics, but I figure I can still use them to get the hang of basic techniques.

The stripe and highlighting is certainly quite dark; the stripe itself something of a failed experiment. Overall I’ve been dry highlighting because I’ve wanted a more muted tone, but doing more washes for the khaki is a fine idea. Lenses have been a challenge; these were red glaze on a white base. Perhaps a darker center would give the outsides more definition?
Thanks a ton for the feedback, this helps a lot.

Onto the backpack next then I can finally do some edge highlights then base this guy. Not too proud of the scratches I did for the helmet, though not exactly sure on how to make it look more convincing.

Well at least the turret is done now. When I get home I'll start the repair process.

What happend?

I dropped the case it was in and somehow managed to snap four legs

don't forget the repair prayers and rituals, don't further anger the Omnissiah

get well soon mecha scopion

I can imagine how it felt, to die a bit on the inside, when that happened.

Oh god I can feel the anguish

Hey /wip/
I have broken two chinesium airbrushes by over tightening the nozzle.
i'm going to get a Iwata Neo CN.
How do I not over tighten and not under tighten it?

>slannesh symbol in skulls.

Babby's first vehicle.

Front view. I spent too much time on this teebeehaitch. Forgive the shit-tier camera , fellows

Shit, forgot to mention that it is still technically WIP.

>I dropped the case it was in and somehow managed to snap four legs

I know that pain, user. The display board in slid out of the back of my car while it was in my driveway; I had to reassemble and touch up nearly an entire Space Marine Battle Company. The Emperor was watching over me that day, though: I found every gun, every combat knife... every pauldron. The only bit I never recovered was Brother-Sergent Vincent's head, which was magnetized.

Who knows ... maybe some day I'll find it clinging to something metal that I'd neglected to look at before.

Haven't had experience with that, but shouldn't parts of that scale be just a bit over finger-tight? I can't imagine the thread is too strong.

Looks pretty gud to me user. The fig has a lot of character

It's rather rough around the edges, but not lacking in color and character- the way you did the mouth and eye really makes it better than the sum of it's parts.

Painting up Helbrecht right now, is Retributor Armor too 'cartoony' of a color for his armor?

Best of luck man, I hope it doesn't break again.

Poor hurt machine-knees

>"thin your paints" prepainted loot crates
>pre primed with moldlines
>bones
Why are all D&D models objectively shit?

I think it's because most of the money goes into the books. Correct me if I'm wrong (since this was "before my time", but I think 2e / AD&D put more of a focus on discussing things, i.e. without a game board and just papers and dice. I remember when 3e came out, there were miniatures in every box and a whole series of monsters, but then WOTC tried to cheap out and gave us "tokens" (cardboard crap) instead. I think there was a few years where no new figures were being released, it's only in the past year or two I'm seeing Pathfinder and DnD figures in my LGS.

thing is, if it's not tight enough, air don't go through it

Got rid of some of the shine on these guys, still a little bit left so I might try another coat.
At least they're almost done now

Seems like with as popular as dnd has become recently there would be more "gw quality" minis. Don't get me wrong, bones are pretty nice for the pricepoint, but even reaper pewter leaves something to be desired.

In the spirit of wip, I'm still sucking at skin. What am I doing wrong?

looks great, can't wait to see it finished

OH NO

>making assault marines out of tacticals
>scavenge up all my spare bolt pistols and chainswords for them
>mfw I would have exactly enough if 90% of both weren't left-handed
Welp, this is what those holsters and open/clenched/pointing hand bits are for.

>posting any of LordLysander's abominations

But what is it?

Sorry to be THAT guy.

Suggestions for someone starting out?

Should I go with Vallejo Game Colour or will the brighter colours look out of place with the quasi-realistic tacticool style of Infinity?
Should I try and buy a bunch of shades within the colour scheme I'm going for or go more broad and maybe buy one of those starter sets? I figure I won't know ahead of time all the colours I will need. Also inks and shit?
What kinds and sizes of brushes should I go with for just starting out with a few basic infantry models?

I want to get as much of this right as I can in one go since I live in the Outback and can't just duck in to a FLGS and grab what I need. I picked up pretty much everything else I think I need a few years ago (cutters, x-acto knife, files, sculpting tools, pin vise) and never got around to doing anything with them.

Cheers m8s