WIP - Work In Progress General

Work In Progress, "Not the faces collage - the *other* one!" edition.

>WIP Secret Santa unboxings
imgur.com/a/qS7PH

>WIP Secret Santa Poll:
strawpoll.me/14692516

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

mediafire.com/file/lw6ylgz0f88exxd/Games Workshop - How To Make Wargames Terrain (1996).pdf
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Swarm Tyrant

>massive backlog
>more stuff arriving from Kickstarter in the next few months
>still have urge to go spend half of paycheck on more models

Anons, how would you go about removing paint from models to potentially salvage them? I have a couple from when I started basically drowning in huge amounts of paint slapped onto them. Is there any was to rescuse the oldest and most faithful of "my dudes"?

Reposting from last thread, got a couple good replies so want to see what else youve got. Thanks lads

So im about to paint a squig obsessed band of goblins and need some name ideas for the chief and big squigs. Anyone have any good ones? Also what are some good colours for squigs?

Literally anything works.
My favorite squigs have been based with a averland sunset, and drybrushed with ryza rust.

>Anons, how would you go about removing paint from models to potentially salvage them? I have a couple from when I started basically drowning in huge amounts of paint slapped onto them. Is there any was to rescuse the oldest and most faithful of "my dudes"?

When did you start? If they're old enough, and made of metal, you don't have to be afraid to use stuff like acetone, Goof Off, or (Emperor protect you!) methylene chloride. Just don't breathe it or let it get on your skin if you can avoid it.

If they're plastic, you need to look for something less caustic. I've had good luck with non-acetone nail polish remover from Walmart, but there's also Simple Green and, if you're in the UK, Dettol. Soak the models in a tub of the stuff (not too long for the nail polish remover, though), and then scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the caked on stuff.

Reposting as thread was dead. Happy with the mouth position and everything, lots of work to do around the face and neck. Hopefully will get a chance to work on it tomorrow.

Never done it myself but they say soak it in "simple green" for 20 or so minutes then a light brushing with a toothbrush works. That's if they sell that stuff in your area

>Tau 3rd edition, a collective of races fighting together for a common cause
>T'au 8th edition, anime suits piloted by blue waifus

Why did it all go so wrong? What did we do to deserve this?

Ah and I wanted opinions on the eyebrows. Currently he has angry eyebrows, I'm thinking of shaving them down a little and giving him raised happy eyebrows, but unsure and it's a little risky.

Additionally, you can pick up some of these eyelash brushes. I don't quite understand how they work better than a big ol' toothbrush scrubbing vigourously, but they seem to do a good job of removing the hard-to-reach stuff in between limbs and around joints once you've scrubbed off all the big chunks.

Ta user.

>justin got my Cadian soldiers to paint
>Star Wars legion comes out soon
>want to paint and play both but both games will make my backlog too much to handle

JUST

Highlighting is way too inconsistent and thick, the and the other colors used look flat. It always doesn't help that the model is posed like hes tripping on something.

If this is your first venture into painting miniatures I hope it's been a learning experience now go look up basic technique videos for washing, drybrushing, and edge highlighting before trying to proceed. You may benefit immensely by considering what colors you want the finished model to exhibit and asking here about what colors you'll need to achieve that. Good luck.

>trust no one, not even your shadow

First miniature that I've used airbrush. Only for robes, hair and chest piece. I did by brush.

Did you intend for it to lean so far forward?
Otherwise highlights are pretty thick and I'm not too sure about purple and green together

finished a bunch of reaper minis. how'd I do?

His eyebrows/eyes already look pretty happy to me. Maybe I'm seeing it wrong, but it looks like he has some kind of dumb but happy rolling-eyes-into-skull thing going on and I think it's pretty great.
He should look like a happy motherfucker in any case.

Anyone had luck with chinese Adeptus Mechanicus?

They are rarely in catalogues and some models like kataphrons had history of being badly cast.

Looks pretty fine to me. You should give us a better look of the girls in the foreground.

But seriously though, the highlighting on the chest plates looks a little thick. Maybe you can blend it down a bit?
Also, give the rock a few more drybrush layers with lighter colors.

absolutely terrible, user.
strip and start over.
thin your paints and use a smaller brush for detail next time.
I'm not saying this to be mean, just to help you.

>dat ass
Yeah, boi.

>Literally in a light box
>Lights aren't on
user why

Not my best work. I'm relearning everything.

the light is VERY bright. it washes out the picture.

If you're getting any kind of useful stripping effect in 20 minutes what you're using isn't simple green.

Simple green takes hours to do anything at all and usually takes 24+ hours to get to a point where you can brush paint off.

>shows the front
Goddammit, user, you had ONE job, jesus christ.

My apologies fellow assman

dat mold line...

it saddens me. reaper minis are this really soft almost rubber so my normal methods of mold line removal didnt work. no excuses though.

worse than restic? have you tried the scalpel method?

i tried shaving the edge off after attempting to remove it with the blunt edge which works with PVC. ended up gouging it badly. so with a sharper blade and a steadier hand it should work. Ill find out after I buy another batch. Sanding is absolutely ineffective.

the material is the reason I stay away from the Bones minis, cheap as they may be

For Britbongs, which kind of dettol product would you recommend?

None. Use methylated spirits instead it's much faster and more effective.

Painting my first marines, still need red but I finished the yellow on one of Dorn's yellow boys

phone pls, I don't live on the equator

It is a mistake to drybrush space marines.

Heck.

Shoulderpads and Base are still WIP

>Shoulderpads and Base are still WIP

All your base? Who are they belong to?

Looking fantastic so far. Can't wait to see the progress!

for plastics, Fairy Power Spray, if you can find it

Btw... Vinni just sculpted a Dark elf...

That said, not as Thicc as the Anonymous survivor. Hurry up Poots.

I just use Detol. Pine scented. The basic stuff.

Just remember to scrub the paint off in the Detol, THEN wash the model. Adding water to the stripped paint turns it back liquid-ish and causes a mess.

First layer of my daemon prince. Worried i'll fuck it up with my shitty painting.

All Your Base Are Belong to Us :)

>tfw you formulate an idea and it seems cool but the more and more you think about it the worse it seems

Why is it in the fridge?

>Shia.weebum
Start anyway.
Get halfway and it's even worse than expected? Shelve it and move on.
Cannibalise for parts later if you need, strip and repaint if you want, save as a reminder not to do it again if you can't save it.

Ain't producing shit if you only .plan. projects.

where else would you take a picture?

I'm working on my nurgle start collecting, do you have any suggestion in what scheme to paint my next 10/20 plaguebearers? I was thinking of doing white undercoat, seraphim sephia wash, drybrushing averland sunset and doing the guts with a shed of carroubourg crimson.

and this his my herald with his nurglings

Leave it in a bucket of this for an hour, brush it with a tooth brush until the paint has been removed and then try again, this time with a little effort.

I've been getting back into the hobby and picked my Orks again.
On the left is my quick way of doing ork skin, Waagh flesh, warboss green, biel tan wash
Right is the warhammer tv tutorial that I decided to try although i'm not sure if i''m doing it wrong altough its probably a matter of practice
CC needed

Looking nice. Keep us updated on Oogie Boogie.

I'd stay with your method fellow ork user.
Personally, I've stoped using biel'tan, because it's barely visible on green basecoat. It's ok to go with it over white, off-white colour (like palid witch flesh or something similar) or yellow to get something actually shaded and tinted with green.

Wait with layering/glazing the skin until you're more comfortable with that tehnique, atm contrast between base and layer ond your right boy it way too stark.

Also clean those damn mouldlines!

Thanks, I will stick with that for my boys and carry on practicing new techniques, along with any other advice I get.

I am removing mould lines from now on, the models I have at the moment are like 5-6 years old and I knew nothing about good practice back then, when I get more tools I will definately go back through everything.

Got any tips for merging ork clothes with orky colours? It seems to look off when I try brown clothes and doesn't meld well with the blues.

Making scatter terrain for Mordheim games. Anyone have any good ideas for building general medieval fantasy props from scratch?

Try washing it with a different color. Green on green doesn't work out that well

I got you back user! I'm paiting Deathskulls myself, and your models reminded me my own first boyz!
The fact is, that brown you use on belts and straps (and probably other stuff) is more khaki than actual brown. Go with mourfang brown or charred brown (vallejo) as base, and mix it with orange for highlights.
Personally I'm going with black/brown-grey-blue scheme with brown/black used on belts and boots, and blue/grey on either pants or shirt.

wip Breath of the Wild small guardian

>Only 3 helmeted heads in the new Custode terminators
FUCK, I NEED MORE LIKE A MILLION+1

>Anyone have any good ideas for building general medieval fantasy props from scratch?

Immerse yourself in the Stillmanic method.

Somehow, this book doesn't appear to be in any of the megas or mediafire links, yet I have a digital copy. It's 58MB, though, so I'd have to find another way to get it to you.

Finally have a weekend off after 8 months. Start painting an arbites cyber hound. Looks like shit.

What can I do to save this? I started inking over the base colours and it just isn't working for me. Anytime I paint large areas metallic I hate the results. Also, GW brand White Scar paint is like mud.

im an idiot, forgot pic

mediafire.com/file/lw6ylgz0f88exxd/Games Workshop - How To Make Wargames Terrain (1996).pdf

Thanks user

Aww man that's great i'm going to save that for inspiration, could you list your paints for it?

try taping some tissue or plastic bag material over the lights to help diffuse it a bit, or use paper.

Wash it with either nuln oil or agrax earthshade.

Hello weirdos, i wanted to paint some poxwalkers with black skin tone and i want to achive something something pic related, any tips on how to do black necrosed flesh?

I'd like to convert a Yncarne into something like a KoS or Slaanesh DP, however I am struggling to find good bits for a conversion, any suggestions?

It'll be hard to do that splotching effect you see on the flesh in that picture, but here's a pallet.

In a decent fridge built after 1990. Jeez my bathroom shower has better lighting than that.

The fridge meme has gone too far

fair enough, the way he stuck it in the bars doesn't help either

Y'all need to add churches to yo fridge. For scale.

I'll try, but I usually mix highlights form base colour or start with diffrent basecoats because ork stuff is not supposed to be uniform.

For brown I started with Mourfang Brown. Boots got heavy wash of nuln and re-applied base colour, belts only edge highlighted with either Vomit Brown form Vallejo or Skrag Brown form GW.

Blue is Heavy Darkblue form Vallejo, with wash of either Drakenhof (atm I'd go with Duruchii if I painted more boyz right now), highlighthed with my fav blue colour - Magic Blue.Shade

Grey is Mechanicus Standard Grey, washed with nuln and highlighted with mix of mechanicus and Wolf Grey form Vallejo.

Skin is tricky, because I've painted each of 5 man batches in diffrent way, so if IRC it's some bright yellow, with glaze of Waywaycher Green all over skin, and wash of biel'tan after it dried completly. Then added streaky highlight of some light green mixed with yellow to apply muscle-like look to it.
Atm I'm paiting more khaki-like skin, starting with Castellan Green, first layer is loren forest and
then elysian green, last highlight is elysian mixed with cadian fleshtone on ears, face, knuckles etc.

For bones and teef I went with standard combo of zandri->agrax->ushabti->white.

Metal is Vallejo Game Air (yup, airbrush paint applied with brush, it's awesome) Gunmetal, washed with agrax and nuln. For bronze bitz I go with VGA Brassy Brass and wash it along with gunmetal. Then allover drybrush with smething like Vallejo silver or anything bright.

Checkers are easy, go with ulthuan grey basecoat, get a pencil to draw lines and fill gaps with black, or (preferably) sakura micron pen.

Scratches on helmets and buzzchopas are just black splashes filled with silver on top.

Don't forget to give them some warpaints! After I paint skin, i just dip my brush in magic blue and smear it on ork face, to emulate him preparing for waaagh! - he'd just dip his hand/grot in pot of paint and smear it all over.

Thanks alot, got a kult of speed battleforce on order so have alot to paint, keep an eye out i'll post my progress.

do not use methylene chloride, Chloroform or similar things at home. it is just not worth the damage you are doing to yourself. these substances easily penetrate nitrile gloves and skin and then fuck your DNA. try Ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol and make sure to properly vent your working area.

Post whats currently at your workstation, that you are working on

Im currently magnetising a Hellhound, for my Cadians and sentinels for my Steel Legion

sorry for shit lighting

Been kind of low on enthusiasm, so I've been experimenting with how many shortcuts in painting I can get off without it looking completely shit. Painted these two basilisks over the last two evenings. Thinking the bolters need reworking, and I'll probably rework the green camo, but otherwise I'm thinking they're tabletop ready.

I posted last week looking for advice on my fiery legion ghosts. Today I spent 4 or 5 hours with them and a bottle of lahmian medium (amazing stuff) working on layers and transitions for the colors.

This is the result. I'm taking a break to do some stuff on my Librarian instead so I wanted to get feedback on the ghosts. I think the yellow orange is good but I think the red and black need more work. I also applied an additional shade of darker orange like one user suggested. Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thicker wash, then re-hilight.
Don't worry too much about pooling in gaps - you're trying to force some contrast into it.

Ridiculous.
Admittedly, this is a pretty terrible photo, but shakey hand man and old camera phone is to blame for that.

Tonight I'm painting a Ten Thunder Brother from Malifaux.
Orange shoulder pads and details, dark blue clothes, black hair and blades.
Not sure what to do with the mask yet.

Camo needs either a wash and a few highlights, or a thrid spot colour dotted it.

or reworked completely

The red and black have zero transition. Just do what you did for the yellow and orange, but do it to the orange-red and red-black and you'll be fine. Maybe use dark grey instead of a pitch black. You can also just drybrush black on.

Haven't been painting in months due to job issues, so I basically slapped myself and forced me into finishing my Dg.
Which means, for now, completing models I had lying there for ages.
Pic is my morty, needs a few finishing touches(base, nurglins, stitches)but most of the work is done.

>I think the yellow orange is good but I think the red and black need more work.
Pretty much user.

The white-yellow needs a bit of layering to smooth out, and the orange-red and red-black do too.

It's going to take a good while, but if you do the restof the transitions as well as the yellow-orange, they'll look great.
And lesson learned for next time, you'll be so well-versed in the art of layering that next time you paint a ghost it'll take twenty minutes.