WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Secret Santa unboxings
imgur.com/a/qS7PH

>Secret Santa Poll:
strawpoll.me/14692516

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=POP Goes the MONKEY iron wolves
imgur.com/a/qS7PH
strawpoll.me/14692516
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=POP Goes the MONKEY iron wolves
you could give this a try as well

any sites where I can get chain axes (official bits or 3d party) for cheap?

Ork nob kits have plenty of big choppas, which can work shockingly well

Finished the beige and cleaned up all other details. I'm happy with how the walls turned out, had no idea what to expect before shading.

Now it's time to shade all non-beige stuff with agrax. I'm a bit worried about messing up and getting shade on the walls around the engine compartment.

Looks great!

Some more progress made today on my mymeara autarch, armour is done apart from glazing the green on. Weapons probably next up

>I'm a bit worried about messing up and getting shade on the walls around the engine compartment.

Gloss coat it first and work with a somewhat diluted wash. You'll be able to simply wipe off most of the mistakes that way. You won't get any tinting effect of note to the engine itself of course, unless you keep that in the matte-satin range.

anvil do some

Isn't the disadvantage of thermal printers that the print fades/darkens over time? How exactly would it print white/metallics if it's the paper which has the colorant?

That's a really lovely soft blue
What are you using colour wise for the helmet and belt thingie?

>tfw you thought your toolbox o' bits was pretty comprehensive.
Damn son.

DESU, the top two containers are mostly unpainted metal models, while the bottom container is the "real" bitz box ("PAULDRONS", "TORSO BITZ", "HEADS / DEATHWATCH", etc.). It got to where I was frequently searching three, four, or more drawers just to find the general kind of thing that I was looking for, so I grabbed a package of Avery labels and eliminated that problem!

Tbe paper doesn't have any colorant in the an Alps job; the metallic (or white) runs as a separate spot color.

the blue is Vallejo model colour light turquoise highlighted with 1:1 mix turq + blue horror edge paint, then 1:3 mix and blue horror on the extremes
I've put a green glaze on now which I was nervous, but after doing looks awesome. Better in real life, it's hard to photograph cause it's subtle.

As for the helmet and sash they are gonna be dark grey/black with proper highlighting, I just kind of blocked in the colour for now

Anyone use superglue activator?

Specific instructions for use? Do you need to wash it off before priming?

superglue activator is often just water, so not really. You just spray the glue with a fine mist, rather than flood it, but water will speed up the setting of superglue a great deal, though the bond does tend to weaken a little if you overdo it.

Goddamn going from all those vibrant flesh colors to having to paint all this fucking tedious ropes and netting makes me want to just end it and chug all my solvents and brush soaps.

Not him, but do you know of any way to re-wet superglue? I live in a very dry climate and all of the superglue I bought in a liquid form is pretty much syrup at this point.

whatever it is, it looks pretty dope though.
Keep doing what you do, it's working.

How do i prevent myself from fucking up my model during washing? I try to apply only a small amount in targeted places, but it stains absolutely everything it touches.

the polymerization reaction of cyano-acrylate (the glue in superglue) is as far as I know irreversible.

Was concerned when I saw your initial rough basecoats that you were going to make a mess. Looking really nice though, very subtle. I think you may need to re-highlight the blue though now that you've glazed it as your highlights were subtle to begin with and they've been lost a little bit.

Buy the little tubes, keep them in your fridge. Use them when you need them, toss 'em when they cook off.

Batanon here, I know it's been a while since I posted anything, but here's a couple pics of my latest work.

...

aaaaaand I just realized I forgot to crop the images.

shit

Damn.

I guess I'll stick them in the fridge from now on... I really should get a Garage Fridge like all my American friends have

lovely work on the armor.
Rarely see highlight as nice as these.

here's a resized version

and the other side resized
thank you :D

and the last one resized

sorry for the spam

>dat blue

hnnnngggg so smooth

Very nice crisp edge highlights though, good looking mini.

super job on the black-blue armor. the smaller details seem under highlighted, but i understand that that might distract from the figure as a whole.

what's your formula on the orange?

thanks, and yeah, things like leather and metal (buckles, etc.) only have a few sharp highlights here and there, to make them stand out less and to make the mini look darker

The recipe for the orange bits is actually really simple, I use the same method for painting my inmate's prison uniforms:

- Vallejo Clear Orange
- 2 thin coats of Agrax Earthshad (to make it extra dark, since I was going for the whole "shine" thing)
- Do edges with Clear Orange again
- Do edges again (carefully and only around the sharpest edges) with a 50/50 mix of Clear Orange and Pale Sand/Ushabti Bone/some kind of bone white
- Put little dots of said bone white in the highest edges

Voila, hope it helps. :D

thanks! i need to get better at dot highlights, i always splodge it and leave this awkward puddle instead of something crisp. line highlights are less of an issue, thankfully.

On a white primer coat I presume?

*on the highest edges, damn autocorrect

And the blue-ish armour is even simpler:
- Citadel The Fang
- Wash with Nuln Oil (once or twice, depending on how dark you want it, I used 2 coats)
- Edges with The Fang
- 50/50 mix of The Fang and Space Wolves Gray - edges again, but thinner lines
- put dots of Grey

Done.

I have terrible shaky hands so I feel your pain. The key is to get a steady grip on the mini and brace your elbows/forearms against a desk or something similar.
Try using only the tip of the brush to kind of drop a small dot of paint instead of actually dragging your brush on the mini.

I use black primer (chaos black), mostly out of habit, and also because I paint mostly dark-looking minis, I guess.

>imgur.com/a/qS7PH
My gift isnt there

>I use black primer (chaos black), mostly out of habit, and also because I paint mostly dark-looking minis, I guess.

That is somewhat surprising, as the orange looks like it started out bright and was darkened down, I did not realise that Tamiya Clear Orange had such a strong color on a black base. But it's useful information to have.

...

Yeah, it took 3 thin layers to get a good coat over black, so I wouldn't recommend it.

> looks like it started out bright and was darkened down

You are technically still correct, I heavily darkened the orange with 2 layers of wash and then started highlighting from there.

cool, good to know.
Thanks for the info.

>about to prime some stuff I've printed
>lid of spraypaint can is stubborn and won't come off
>comes off, breaks off spray nozzle
Pic related. Now I have to hope wood glue is good enough to keep it together. Can't almost full, too.

normally the nozzles just slip back on to spray cans; is this not the case for you?

Nope, the stem broke off under the nozzle diagonally. Half the stem is with the nozzle, half is still on the can, and there's not enough stem left that I can cut the broken part off and put the nozzle on it.

oh shit, that really sucks. good luck fixing that.

Super glue is activated by water. All that "Super Special Army Painter Super Glue Activator" is, is just water in one of those mist spray bottles.

...

...

Guys I need help, I just can't seem to get my paints the right consistency when thinning, they just turn to water that acts like ink, I can't find a middle ground between clumpy-unthinned and ink-like thinned.

get some lahmian medium/matte medium. it'll help with that issue. medium is paint without pigment, so it thins the pigment and color but not the consistency of the paint itself. great for maintaining high control over paint flow without it getting too thick. i use it for bone and red colors because those can be so fiddly.

You basically just touch the tip of your brush to the water
It shouldn't leave more than maybe a 1cm diameter circle of paint in the water if you do it right

Do I always assemble a miniature before painting, no exceptions?

Currently using vallejo's thinner medium, if it's anything to add.

Unless it's something big like a Morkanaut or an Imperial Knight yeah always fully assemble before painting. You dont want glue all over your paint job, doesnt matter how good at assembly you are it will happen somewhere.

How I thin my paints is put the little blob of paint on the brush, dunk it in the water real quick (with the paint still on the brush) and put it on my pallet as-is. Works every time.

Thank you!

I wanted to start questioning your choice of paint brands, thinners, etc. Then, it occurred to me: what if you're thinning your paints right, but the problem is with how much paint you're loading up on the brush? That's not an insignificant factor.

Most of the time, I use a cheap plastic throw-away palette from Michaels. I use a junky old trashy brush to move the paint from the pot to the palette, and then use a plastic dropper to drop a single drop of clean water (do not use the dirty water from your brush wash!) into it, then mix with the cheap brush.

Never mix with the good brush you intend to paint with. That's a quick road to destroying that brush.

Also, if I need to fine-tune the mixture for working on gribbly details, sometimes I will drop the water *near* the paint rather than *in* it, and drag a portion of the water droplet into the paint for mixing. This method also works when using flow improver.

Second batch of bikers done.

Your highlighting is blended very nicely.

pretty sure that'll make the paint more watery. medium doesn't let it get watery.

I take exception to this, there are some models (i.e. goddamned Mechanicus) where there are a LOT of fiddly bits that wouldn't be quite reachable after assembly but are still very noticeable/visible areas.

Ive been away about a month now. Did all the secret santa stuff pan out? I never got an email from santanon about it so I'm guessing we did not have many people get grinched?

from the OP

>Secret Santa unboxings
imgur.com/a/qS7PH

>Secret Santa Poll:
strawpoll.me/14692516

Posting in a slightly different timeframe to see if there's any different input:
In the 40krpg Black Crusade thing, there are some different god aligned spawn variants, and Tzeentch's variant, the Firewyrm kinda stuck out to me. It uses fire weapons and can hover like a flamer, and endlessly mutates till it explodes in a pillar of flame upon death. I already have some slightly Tzeentch-y spawn, but I kinda wanted to do something special to represent one of these. Any ideas on how I could try representing these with a model, conversion, or something from scratch? I have had some ideas like adding flamer parts, maybe making it some sort of massive fire like a brimstone, doing both, maybe having some sort of weird organic blob with fire coming from it, etc. but my ideas keep changing and I'm not really too sure on what I should actually go with. I'm confusing myself at this point.

my package made it to user and is in the imgur
never did get anything from my SS though

c'est la vie

wanted to make this emperors children sorcerer a pimp so i gave him a cheetah print cape

i get jealous seeing all the shit yall motherfuckers got from it
kinda wish i did it now

Did you contact Santanon to tell him, so that he blacklists the dude that was assigned your address?

For me the problem was I had a SS for both phases, and in both phases my SS sent me far cooler/expensive/rare shit than I sent. I ended up with like 100 bucks worth of really dope models and shit (celestine's body guards, at least one model from every "triumverant" box, skulls, all kinds of shit) and I just sent out fucktons of GW washes and bits. When I do it again next year some motherfucker is getting a start collecting box

Yep. Figured end of january was the appropriate time to do that.

Proof that a good paintjob >>>>>> clogging models with extra parts and details

...

So, I'm supposed to dilute gesso? What ratio (of water:primer)?

Doing battle damage like that is the next thing I want to learn how to do. I know you just slapped paint on there in the appropriate manner, but it really does like 3d, like those are actually cuts into the ceremite. I need to learn how to do that because mine always look like ass

Nevermind, just noticed the last part of the gesso link in the OP
Gonna try it undiluted

They look great, what are they?

Here's the package I got, don't think it made it in there - just the one figure and a printed note from GW directly, sent after Christmas

Not him, but that's such a ballsy move to grinch someone when Santa-user has your personal information. I know wip is above shit like doxxing for the most part, but being an asshole would be risky.

Needed a chaos Lord in termi armor and had bits sitting so tada. But I feel like he may need more any ideas?

HHHNNNNNGGGG
That precision
Those flat colour blocks
That weathering
This is pornographically good

i don't think it is about people specifically being jerks, but over committing and not realizing their mistakes. signing up for secret santa is easy, but following through requires a bit of effort. if you can't assign the time to assembling the gift and sending it out, then you shouldn't do secret santa because it just decreases the enjoyment for everyone.

>but being an asshole would be risky
Especially since our community is so small, there are less than 200 of us I that frequent /wip/ I would venture to say, (I have probably called everyone of you here a nigger at least once) and by the looks of it most people played fair. The 30 something dudes who tried to play the system should really ask themselves what they are gonna do it Santanon makes the info about the grinches public. There are some of us here that have nothing better to do with our lives than to shit on other people for being faggots. I would love nothing more than to have a list of people I can target and feel good about it.

So im about finished with these guys, only the hair poles left, still pondering their colouring, probably going for bright green or dark blue.

Also what do you think so far? still trying out sponge weathering, i think it came out quite nicely, if a bit overdone

i really like your take on orc skin.

Maybe a spike out of the shoulder or head?

He needs to be holding a greenstuff turd in his open hand. A turd covered in nurgles rot. Make it happen.

I got mine, bit I haven't gotten any confirmation that the gift I sent made it other than tracking info saying it arrived.
But, the post office noted it was an apartment, so I have no idea.

Everything is good if you do it right.

What colours do you use for the skin?

>p3 trollblood base
>drakenhoff nightshade thinned down with lahmian medium
>lighten up the raised areas with trollblood base again
>highlight with sybarite green followed by a finer highlight of rakarth flesh

Are we really that rare? I assume everyone at my store secretly browses tg and /wip/. I will secretly continue to believe this.

There's 35 IPs in this thread currently, I don't think it'll go over 100 over the next few days - I can't check the old thread's data, unfortunately. Yeah, I would say the pool here is pretty small.

Well darn I feel like I really know you guys now

Thanks!

/wip/ and /egg/ is the most wholesome thread I've found on Veeky Forums so far. There's a minimum of shit-flinging unless someone absolutely positively deserves it and we're all friendly and supportive without going overboard with it.

/wip/ is nice. You guys are great.

That looks great.
Trashy, but great.

>Trashy
exactly what i was going for
thanks!