WIP - Work In Progress General

nah, you're good, no thread all day

I was at a ladyfriend's house all day with the maybebaby, literally wondering what the /wip/ guys were up to.

Good to know you guys didn't start without me

This thread has been claimed for the Greater Good!

>with the maybebaby
Is that a fancy way of saying you're trying for a child? If so, maybecongrats, I wish you good luck.

No, more of its maybe my baby. But, a story for another time. Her new dude has a rich family, so if anything the kiddo will be better off, even if it bums me out. But thank you for the nice wishes!
It's YOUR Empire too, Gue'vesa'ui!

still working on my helios, and still need to base my first contemptor when my second contemptor just came in today.

...

imperial fist captain colored, had to come up with a way to give him a decent pauldron, happy with how it turned out for my 4th ever mini

Were you the guy posting pics of his guys in the other thread? Why didn't you follow any of the advice given to you? Thin your paints.

Thin your paints dude.

i thought i'd thinned them enough, i followed that tutorial on the warhammer channel, mixed in enough water so it didn't feel lumpy with the brush, used a pallet this time, i posted the base layer in pic related

Watch some dunc and listen to his advice. Thin your paints, and learn to wash and drybrush. Have patience and stay within the lines, and look at your pics before you upload them. You'll usaully spot a number of obvious things to clean up, so clean them, delete the old pics, and take new ones so people aren't criticsing you for obvious mistakes. Also, transfers are your buddy, freehand is extremely difficult to get right.

You need to water you paints down a bit before putting it onto your model. You need to use a smaller brush when applying your paint. And you need to work from the inside out. Work from the joints and work outwards from there. And you dont want to put too many colors on your model. Stick to 2 colors, not including capes and other accessories. You have white, yellow and black all on your main armor and it really detracts from what you are trying to do.
Go yellow and either use black or white to be the opposing color because right now you are trying to put too many contrasting colors on a single model (especially hard to work with colors) and its making your model too difficult to paint.

Part of why I think it looks so thick is because the color is going onto all the surrounding details whenever you go to paint it. Be patient, and make sure you are using an appropriate brush with a nice tip.

Like said, learn how to wash, highlight, and drybrush. Part of the issue is the abrupt transitions you have on the model, which can be remediated some with proper highlighting, but I would look at some other Fists paint jobs to get an idea of where colors should go.

the Duncan tutorial on thinning is actually kind of vague to be honest. You want your paint to be the consistency of skim milk.

this tutorial is a little more in depth
youtube.com/watch?v=EogxYu8dgzY&t

you started out really well it seems, its the yellow that seems the have cause issue here.

what kind of pallet are you using? try making a wet pallet and thin your paints a bit more. especially yellows

>F5ing for the kingdom death holiday sale today
Who's with me?

Who's going to risk sleeping for a few hours since it didn't immediately go up?

i think i may benifit a lot from a smaller brush, as my smallest one comes from some regular paintbrush set, not a specific tiny brush with a fine point
i didn't know that's how thin it was supposed to be, fuck, cause i watched the duncan tuto and apparently didn't thin enough, oops

Yellow is a difficult color to work with even in the best of times. Try not to push your brush into the places you want to go, drag it. You started off well, but you are working with multiple colors that are difficult to put together on a single model. I will give you some advice that has helped me improve a lot when it comes to painting: dont be afraid to make a mistake, you can just paint over it.

I seriously want to get in on the KD action, but a couple days out from payday and I already own so much KD that its hard to justify buying more unless its too good to pass by.

thank you, i actually made a bunch of mistakes, at one point his resperator thingy was black, and i decided i didn't like it so i painted it over

The thing is that you want to apply 2 thin coats to a model. dont try to get it all done in a single layer. Under layers have an effect on how the upper layers are going to turn out. Duncan isnt wrong about doing 2 thin coats per layer. It can be a little tedious at times, but 2 thin coats really does the job.

I'm sitting here with an auto-refresh plugin for Firefox going every 10 seconds. Gonna need an extra large coffee in the morning after this.

i took that to heart, did 2 coats to all of it, but i just apparently did it too thick

the emperor provides

This was my first model that I bought (back in 4th edition). I have rebuilt him multiple times, and have had to repaint him and such a few times over. I still have him, but this was the best of my painting skills about a decade ago.

but after a deployment to afghanistan, getting married and falling out of the hobby in 6th due to just dealing with life.

I have gotten back into the hobby with 8th edition, and I will show you what I can do now (in my next post)

>liquor chocolates

If you wanted that much sugar and even catch a buzz, just drink a fifth of jager like I do.

To add onto this: , you're also starting at the wrong tone for white and black (don't inow about yellow, never tried my hand at that shite). With white, you wanna start with (if using GW paints) Celestra Grey or Ulthuan Grey, and with black I usually like starting with Skavenblight Dinge. These allow for both brighter and darker highlights, and even by themselves don't ruin details all too much.

and this is what I can do now after taking the hobby seriously, and watching A LOT of painting tutorials and getting good brushes.

still wet and needs verdigris and the plague priest on top but shes finally done for the night

meant to upload this one, but anyways. You can see a serious difference between my gadawful skills and paint scheme (red, black and yellow).
I have since decided to repaint a lot of my army, and going just red and black with either gold or silver highlights.

While fun to have completed, the furnace isn't a fun model to paint. I spent my entire christmas day doing one back when it first came out.
Also, next time, make sure to clean your models more. You can see the sprue nibs pretty clearly on the stone pillar.

should I give this guy a helmet or an unhelmeted head?

First blackshield mini I've painted which will be part of a 40K Chaos army. Never painted Mk. III before, need to practice eyes on this armour type.

I put helmets on nearly every single model in my armies if I can. Makes no sense to go into a battlefield without proper PPE.

what color did you use for the "black?"

Eshin grey washed twice with Nuln oil. This is Forgeworld's scheme for black.

Assembling an Eternity Warden to stand in for my Blood Bowl Star Player.

Shoulder pads like the rest of my saurus, or no pads?

Other pic incoming.

Pic 2, with pads

Almost finished with the skeleton group.

Was a skeleTON of fun. Stood oujs aside any recommendations for the color of the paint, I think black would be to boring, maybe a purple?

pads look better

Almost done

Last time i asked FW how to paint Iron Hands they said to base with leadbelcher and wash 4 times with nuln oil.

I finished my first Irondrake.

THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS GODDAMNIT FUCK

White spray came out fuzzy.

I have to paint 95 guardsmen for the 23rd.

I hate everything

nice! i like the red. im boring and just paint mine silver with gold trim. i have thirty of the fucking things to go and i am so sick of basing silver and detailing gold and fucking up and needing to go over again

My warqueen about halfway there.

And the back, first time shitty freehand included. So wip hows your harbinger coming?

Thanks
Heh, that's actually my model you just posted.

Does anyone have any Forgeworld Knarloc Riders? I was wanting to convert them for an AoS army, but I don't have one directly in front of me to judge how well it and various other Kroot units would fit on AoS bases. There are a couple others I was hoping someone might be able to help with.

>Knarloc Riders
Would these fit on a 60x35mm oval, or would they be too fat? If not, would they fit on a 45x75mm oval? Definitely hoping there's a way to get 'em on a 60x35 without looking too awkward, but they ship oin a 60mm round, and I have serious doubts that they'd fit.

>Krootox
Would these fit on a 60x35mm oval, or would they be too fat? Given that they ship on 40mm rounds, I am guessing they would fit barely. Just curious of those big ape fists would be too wide.

>Greater Knarloc
Would this fit more comfortably on a 70x105mm oval, or would it look too small? I know it was shipped on a 60mm round, but it's overflowing the base completely in the front and back.

>he doesn't spray his models with compressed air before priming them.
tau deserve to be covered in your pubes desu

ok. well... Okay. The problem is you didn't prime the model, you painted white straight onto bare plastic. you should never do this, your models will look shit 100% of the time. You need to prime the model with a primer, before putting any paint onto it. Just seeing the white "base" on the backpack screams to me that you fucked up and painted it white instead of priming it.

The good news is stripping paint of models that aren't primes is easy, go strip it, buy some spray paint (GW's is only $20, though overpriced, still cheap) and start again.

oh! ok! i was told by the guy that they put primer in the paint so i shouldn't bother by the guy at the store, will do

and for stripping, i just dunk em in simple green for how long?

What paint is it? if it GW brand, it's not a rpimer and i'd suggest not listening to anything that cunt has said ever.

On the other hand, if it is a paint-on primer of a different brand, then you are OK. Your only problem is that you may have put it on a bit thick (for a first timer paint-on primers aren't something i'd reccomend)
Though, if you get spray primer, test it on sprue first and make sure you follow the directions as you can fuck up spray painting a model. just try to keep your hand moving left - right quickly while spraying the model and keep the spray about 20cm away (speaking from 30+ degree celsius Australia Queensland humid conditions. if you're US/EU it may be different, like 30 cm away from the model.

some people leave it overnight,, but i've left stuff in it for an hour and scrubbed, then repeated cause i'm impatient. (use an old toothrbush to scrub it)

it's GW paint yeah, this is, looking back, the same guy who told me thinning my paint was just using less of it on the brushif i leave it in, will it damage the plastic model like some of those things do?

My warden king for adepticon

...

the cape highlights look a little bit off to me, you've gone from a pinky red to almost yellow, I think if you'd used a more orangy red as a base it'd look more natural

Finished my ironbreakers

Change the legs fod God's sake.

The huge bolter is also the cause of him looking like a manlet.

I'm thinking of converting Astra Militarum. I don't like the Cadians so I'm looking at other options.
Two ideas that I have is using Victrix French old guard with female arms + weapons from Victoria Models. Thing is, Victrix is true scale and that may affect the scaling with heroic-sized weapons and although slighter arms than the male counterpart. Should I focus on converting the existing arms and weapons with the original models?

Second of all, I have been looking at Bolt Action with the new Waffen SS but mostly at USMC. Same as Victrix, want to use arms and las weapons from Victoria Models. Bolt Actions models are almost heroic but anyone knows if it would work using heroic scale arms with those?

thats the point, the guy is making a chapter of manlet marines

Fuck that is sexy. The other guy said the cape highlights were a bit off looking, but I think it'll be perfect in a tabletop setting. Rich and lavish looking, and just the tiniest bit embellished.

Someone r8 my last big piece? Wondering about what I could do to add a bit more depth and what you guys might do for some richer highlights.

Got to paint up a friends character from our DnD game. He was pretty happy about it. Cleaned up the flames a bit after the pic. Overall pretty happy with it.

He chose the colors.

His Necromancer.

you are such a hero

Bump?

Dat inner thigh...

good work man, especially the freehand on the book. how do you have the patience to do all that gold trim?

Working on my contemptor, pose is a bit fucked up but I hope it’s not too bad

the rock needs to be bigger.

Make sure that the cape is dragging on the ground.

I use Liberator gold as a base, as it's really thick. Then a wash of reikland fleshshade, another layer of LG on raised area and auric armor gold only on edge/small detail

It's way faster than the balthasar gold/wash/ghehenna's gold/auric armor gold combo

I'd call it a 5.5/10. The color combo looks good, and the center eye brings the expression to life. Improvements I would make:
- Contrast needs to come up on everything (the low spots need to be darker, the high spots need to be brighter). It looks like you started to do this, but stopped short (why is there a wash on the horns but not the teeth?).
- The eyeballs: stalk eyes need some neatening up and lining, and it would be neat to see the irises given the same treatment as the center eye (yes, it's possible). I personally think they're all a little too white; maybe some red glazes to make them a little bloodshot.
- The base: Waaaay too plain Jane. At least needs a little drybrushing to pick out the rocks or something. Personally I'd mount the whole thing on a round base and go scenic - give the whole thing some more presence.

Posting here too because 40kg is shit. How do I make my mechanicum units look more dieselpunk? Just finished the new wolfenstein and I thought an army of angry diesel fueled hate machines would be fun.

this may be a silly question, but how is that dude meant to open the buckles on his leather pouch with powerfist sausage fingers?

describe dieselpunks aestetic to me in as few words as possible

Shit

Nazi experimental robots and weapons

Greasy, with a whole lotta lube.

Techlet here. Is it possible to resize my Imperial Knight heraldry so it can fit on the tilt shield, but still have the text legible?

you could just buy some minis.
Basically anything from Dust or weird world war 2 games like secrets of the third reich would work.
Or look into stuff from steampunk games that isn't completely tasteless like In her Majesty's Name for example.

That particular artwork you posted basically looks 1:1 like the armored suits from Sedition Wars though.

If you look into reaper they also have some bigger power armored dudes that may pass for dieselpunk.

Then replace the head with a helmet with a broom on top and a bionic eye because it makes the head look even bigger

you mean for printing?
Yeah, you don't need to edit the picture's pixel dimensions at all you just need to change the dpi.
dpi stand for dots per inch, i.e. the resolution of the printer.
A 1:1 pixel to dpi ratio is gonna look crummy though. Standard resolution for quality prints is usually about ~ 300dpi.

If you are using literally anything else than paint, even word, you should be fine. Just use the ruler to eyeball the final size in the preview and print.
Paint is for editing images, it can barely do anything else.

Damn I didn't even think to check out those lines. I'll give them a look.

>Leaves brushes in the mug of water, bristles down
>Pic related

...

Cheers,

And yeah, for printing. I plan to print onto transfer paper.

Cool thanks for the advice. I'm not really hot on basing my minis, I just don't care about it that much honestly, but I'll see what I can do on that front. Problem is that the whole plastic part of the base is a bunch of really smooth, rounded lumps so it's a bit hard to effectively drybrush without it just looking weird. As for the rest of him, believe it or not it's a similar issue with the teeth. The model itself is great to work on, but the top teeth are just real smooth and it's weird and a bit hard to wash properly. You really can't tell but there was already a wash over it that looked like garbage so I soaked most of it up. The rest of him is actually quite dark, my camera is just really pissy about showing details.

At the moment I'm thinking those are my next stops, but I want to try using my ultra fine brush and do some soft orange-red highlights on the scales. I want to get that feeling of light bouncing off his scales coming from a torch or something.