>Battlewagons I have most of them. In one form or another.
Still need some Giblet Grindas and Squig Catapults though.
Aaron Gray
Finalized my diorama base, time to start painting
Dominic Howard
Finished my herald. What do you guys think?
Tyler Hernandez
How compatible are IG/Scion parts e.g. power fist with the metal Cannoness model?
Joseph Martin
That's a really nice paintjob. Like the skintone you've chosen. The mushroom cap overshadows the face a bit though, because it is much lighter. If you look at the model from a gaming perspective though you wouldn't see the face anyway, so I guess that's fine.
Not a fan of the model, though i'm curious what they are gonna do with the goblins.
Adam Adams
Very nice work muh dude, the scales on the back and the liquid vial in particular. The shroom "caps" it off very nicely :^)
Joseph Murphy
Not at all really, scion arms are too big to fit with her.
Alexander Ortiz
>what they are gonna do with the goblins.
man i really hope they give them a soup book too for night goblins/normal goblins/spiderfang combined
Also some updates to older models especially these squigs and maybe some new plastic kits
Evan Johnson
Had to finish this guy tonight for a game tomorrow, so I ended up rushing the cloth and weapon a little but I think it turned out alright.
He's going to have a cleanup pass after the game though, hilt and cloth especially. And the helm.
Julian Butler
What does /wip/ think of my big boy?
Daniel Watson
Tried to do some work on the spear, the results from it getting covered in super glue should be covered on it, nothing I could do for the arm itself, as I can't replace it like I did with the blade. You are seeing the side of the spear that will normally not be visible on the model, so I ended up being a bit lazier with the sculpting work than I should have been. Not perfectly happy with the "roots" on the blade, have yet to do the other side.
I also put a slaanesh symbol on her coat, tried a few different ways to do it, result isn't perfect, but should be better than me trying to freehand it on there. If I can't cut along the edges after it cures, I might try one more attempt, but it gets really tiresome after a while.
Alexander Russell
It's certainly big boy season.
Looking good. I'd consider going for slightly stronger edge highlights on the red, but it's more than ready for the table.
Andrew Lee
Very nice conversions as usual, really like the vines around the glaivestaff
Excited to see it finished on the third :^)you will finish it right?
Jaxson Hughes
The camera washes everything a little bit but it's true that I could give him stronger highlights. The problem is doing it without using orange which I want to avoid
Henry Perry
Thanks, and yes. This model should be fully painted by then, including the base. I simply ended up with less time than I thought I would have in the last week. For the content of the SC, I planned to finish the bases in batches and have to look how much time I have left afterward.
Owen Thompson
Try getting a photo in daylight? I find that my stuff always looks better when it's in the sun.
Jason Lewis
I'm setting upon a project to kitbash my own Eldar Craftworld models using my Dark Eldar spare bits. The only Craftworld bit I'm going to use it the weapons carried by the original models, which I will recast and cut up to suit the dark eldar bits.
So far I've built 5 Dark Reapers (recast 5 Reaper launchers from the Made to Order Autarch) and I'm planning on getting this kit for Warp Spider jump generators, Striking Scorpion swords and Fire Dragon guns in addition to some shining spear lance arms. Is there any model that comes with howling banshee weapons or warp spider weapons?
Chase Taylor
looks nice and clean, though maybe paint the gems when you have a little more time
Easton Reyes
Looks good man
Nolan Peterson
Maybe select ones, I tend to think wraith units look tacky with all the gems painted, so I tend to only paint clasped ones.
Jason Campbell
Plastic Contemptor reminds me of Kramer wearing skinny jeans.
Brayden Davis
some progress with my salt-chipped deffdreads
James Butler
Looks like actual metal
Nathan Brown
So what do you guys think about edge highlights with watercolor pencils. A buddy of mine at my local shop told me about it and brought one in for me to try. I was extremely impressed with with the results and stupid easiness.
Then I thought "Im sure Veeky Forums hates this for some reason" and I'm curious to find out what that reason is.
Ayden Moore
...
Josiah Campbell
never seen it done before, i'm dubious until I see some results
Ryder Young
Don't just say it looks cool, post 'em!
Jason Carter
Pics pls
Hudson Mitchell
I'm sickened, but curious.
Daniel Powell
They look great lad. Like it's been in the sea.
Julian Powell
...so any tips on how the hell I am supposed to paint a xenophase blade? with citadel colors?
Connor Watson
Here. I didn't have anything that currently needed to be highlighted, so I tested it on this second-hand libby dread that I'm repainting soon.
See the shoulder area. Literally took like 20 seconds max. It can be made wider by using a shallower angle, it can be smoothed a bit by smudging with your fingers, and if you mess up you can just lick your finger and wipe it off instantly.
Henry Long
Finally worked on my Archmagos again after 8-ish months. Did the arms and his backpack.
Decided to give his "free" hand a hanging cannon and decided to magnetize his staff arm for ease of transport. Leaves me in a bit of a conundrum because the skull is heavy as shit and means that I'll need to jam a magnet into the base and some metal on the bottom of the staff to actually make it possible for him to hold it. Upper and lower body are still separate to make paintint easier.
Brody Perry
it's a common technique for historical scale modelers. Basically the same as using pigments. You just have to make sure you varnish the model before it rubs off.
Lucas Powell
I was thinking about trying to convert the metal cannoness model anyone got any good ideas? sorry
Justin Sullivan
broadly speaking the body is a big chunk of metal with an inset sculpted head, all you can really do is some weapon swaps or possibly a headswap if you wanted to carve it out.
Kevin Price
>You came to the wrong neighborhood, heretek
Gavin Gutierrez
Looks solid. I've seen other anons do similar. Tried it once, but didn't like how easily it would rub off when using minis for games
Zachary Hill
You're supposed to varnish after
John Morris
Reposting from last thread: What color should I paint his cloak, /wip/? He's a Tzeentchian disciple/traitor guardsman, and a wip. I'm a pretty new painter and am open to other C&C, too.
Robert Jackson
yo /wip/, what bases would your recommend DKOK arty pieces, like the thudd gun and whatnot? Been looking around and I think 80mm is the right size, but I don't want stuff too cramped either
Easton Gray
something to contrast with the blue of the cloak, magenta maybe
Jaxon Ward
Fug, forgot the image.
Ethan Cook
I'm a slow painter and will play with models that aren't finished yet
Blake Murphy
Has anyone told you about paint thinning yet? I'm sure they have.
Zachary Bennett
TYP for christ sake
Alexander Jenkins
I assume the main issue would be easy removal through transport/ touching. Seal it?
Daniel Carter
I do thin my paints, I think that's actually from the spray primer. It seems to have went on chunky for that batch.
Benjamin Fisher
Same. But I usually do a layer of gloss right after the highlight so I can then apply decals and nuln/agrax wash without staining the mini darker. So it will work for me since it gets covered immediately.
Jonathan Foster
Yeah you need to cover it with something. I don't understand why anyone wouldn't varnish anyway. Paint comes off super easy without it... especially if you're grabbing wads of casualties to remove from the table.
Kevin Jones
I have a bit of a lighting problem in my workspace. It's too damn dark, even with 100 watt bulbs. I often have to squint to pick out details. How can I fix this?
Aiden Sanders
multiple light sources, open your blinds to let in sunlight. LED bulbs tend to be brighter
Robert Peterson
One of these with a cap light attached to the top.
Strip it then. I've had fuzzy bois before and its a result of either temperature issues or you holding the can too far back.
Colton Gray
I did a shit prime recently, then stripped and warmed up the primer can in water first on the rec of user, turned out great no fuzzies
Grayson Brooks
Forsooth, I did not chooseth the life of a degenerate, alas the life of a degenerate chose I.
Asher Williams
Okay, seriously. How hard is it to dip your brush in that mug of that water sitting on the table?
William Ramirez
the colour is nice but it honestly looks like you've used marzipan instead of paint
Nolan Gomez
T H I C C
Leo Ramirez
I thin paints religiously. A huge problem with that model is that it's a somewhat badly-filed-down old AobR model with some sloppy greenstuffing (neck area f.ex), which gives it lumpy surfaces to begin with (like the chest area, the aquila wasn't filed down right).
It's barely noticeable face to face but unfortunately macro setting makes it look a bit yucko...
I like it a lot user it's got that bright goofy Emperor's children look to it and love the thicker gaps in the recesses. Powerfists are always fun.
Jackson Sanders
...
Charles Murphy
I asked last thread, but didn't get many responses. Other than the big 4 paint lines(GW, Vallejo, P3, and Reaper), what are some other brands you guys would recommend?
Josiah Wood
>looking up how to paint up grots >get this youtube.com/watch?v=FMiblhqhFxg >it's the exact same as the ork skin tutorial DUNCAAAAAAAAN
Michael Cruz
...
Sebastian Price
Thank you, I appreciate it. Powerfists are really cool on Exalted Champions. Cheap character/tank hunters that you can sneak through enemy lines.
Anthony Walker
Base rhinox hide and dry brush ushabti bone then screaming skull. Wash with agrax and call it a day
Lincoln Richardson
>warmed up the primer can in water first tell me more
Liam Reed
>Orks and grots are the same species >WHY DO THEY HAVE THE SAME SKIN COLOUR REEEEE user, I...
Scale 75 comes to mind. Warpainter has a paint range, AK has some for scale modeling, those should work too (Although you might need paint thinner). Don't know about the quality though.
Brandon Campbell
I'm a super slow painter and have already mostly painted this squad, but I'll do that in the future. Thanks for the advice!
Thomas Anderson
>Warpainter Meant army painter, duh.
Easton Ramirez
Any thoughts on how to mimic ushabti bone by mixing basic colors? GW paints are so expensive that I try not to buy too many and mix instead.
Oliver Sanders
You can fuck RIGHT OFF Ork and Grots have noticeably different skin color in 'eavy metal paintjobs