WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Heed His words!
youtu.be/wxWgsqSf74s

>Previous Threads:



Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.com/gp/product/B0015IS6K2
amazon.de/Northpoint-Vergrößerungsglas-Vergrößerungslampe-Arbeitsplatzlampe-Farbtemperatur/dp/B01N13ZBF1/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1519167340&sr=8-13&keywords=Arbeitslampe
amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUTAFR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
youtube.com/watch?v=FMiblhqhFxg
youtube.com/results?search_query=painting grots
twitter.com/AnonBabble

>Battlewagons
I have most of them. In one form or another.

Still need some Giblet Grindas and Squig Catapults though.

Finalized my diorama base, time to start painting

Finished my herald.
What do you guys think?

How compatible are IG/Scion parts e.g. power fist with the metal Cannoness model?

That's a really nice paintjob.
Like the skintone you've chosen. The mushroom cap overshadows the face a bit though, because it is much lighter.
If you look at the model from a gaming perspective though you wouldn't see the face anyway, so I guess that's fine.

Not a fan of the model, though i'm curious what they are gonna do with the goblins.

Very nice work muh dude, the scales on the back and the liquid vial in particular. The shroom "caps" it off very nicely :^)

Not at all really, scion arms are too big to fit with her.

>what they are gonna do with the goblins.

man i really hope they give them a soup book too for night goblins/normal goblins/spiderfang combined

Also some updates to older models especially these squigs and maybe some new plastic kits

Had to finish this guy tonight for a game tomorrow, so I ended up rushing the cloth and weapon a little but I think it turned out alright.

He's going to have a cleanup pass after the game though, hilt and cloth especially. And the helm.

What does /wip/ think of my big boy?

Tried to do some work on the spear, the results from it getting covered in super glue should be covered on it, nothing I could do for the arm itself, as I can't replace it like I did with the blade. You are seeing the side of the spear that will normally not be visible on the model, so I ended up being a bit lazier with the sculpting work than I should have been. Not perfectly happy with the "roots" on the blade, have yet to do the other side.

I also put a slaanesh symbol on her coat, tried a few different ways to do it, result isn't perfect, but should be better than me trying to freehand it on there. If I can't cut along the edges after it cures, I might try one more attempt, but it gets really tiresome after a while.

It's certainly big boy season.

Looking good. I'd consider going for slightly stronger edge highlights on the red, but it's more than ready for the table.

Very nice conversions as usual, really like the vines around the glaivestaff

Excited to see it finished on the third :^)you will finish it right?

The camera washes everything a little bit but it's true that I could give him stronger highlights. The problem is doing it without using orange which I want to avoid

Thanks, and yes. This model should be fully painted by then, including the base. I simply ended up with less time than I thought I would have in the last week. For the content of the SC, I planned to finish the bases in batches and have to look how much time I have left afterward.

Try getting a photo in daylight? I find that my stuff always looks better when it's in the sun.

I'm setting upon a project to kitbash my own Eldar Craftworld models using my Dark Eldar spare bits. The only Craftworld bit I'm going to use it the weapons carried by the original models, which I will recast and cut up to suit the dark eldar bits.

So far I've built 5 Dark Reapers (recast 5 Reaper launchers from the Made to Order Autarch) and I'm planning on getting this kit for Warp Spider jump generators, Striking Scorpion swords and Fire Dragon guns in addition to some shining spear lance arms. Is there any model that comes with howling banshee weapons or warp spider weapons?

looks nice and clean, though maybe paint the gems when you have a little more time

Looks good man

Maybe select ones, I tend to think wraith units look tacky with all the gems painted, so I tend to only paint clasped ones.

Plastic Contemptor reminds me of Kramer wearing skinny jeans.

some progress with my salt-chipped deffdreads

Looks like actual metal

So what do you guys think about edge highlights with watercolor pencils. A buddy of mine at my local shop told me about it and brought one in for me to try. I was extremely impressed with with the results and stupid easiness.

Then I thought "Im sure Veeky Forums hates this for some reason" and I'm curious to find out what that reason is.

...

never seen it done before, i'm dubious until I see some results

Don't just say it looks cool, post 'em!

Pics pls

I'm sickened, but curious.

They look great lad. Like it's been in the sea.

...so any tips on how the hell I am supposed to paint a xenophase blade? with citadel colors?

Here. I didn't have anything that currently needed to be highlighted, so I tested it on this second-hand libby dread that I'm repainting soon.

See the shoulder area. Literally took like 20 seconds max. It can be made wider by using a shallower angle, it can be smoothed a bit by smudging with your fingers, and if you mess up you can just lick your finger and wipe it off instantly.

Finally worked on my Archmagos again after 8-ish months. Did the arms and his backpack.

Decided to give his "free" hand a hanging cannon and decided to magnetize his staff arm for ease of transport. Leaves me in a bit of a conundrum because the skull is heavy as shit and means that I'll need to jam a magnet into the base and some metal on the bottom of the staff to actually make it possible for him to hold it.
Upper and lower body are still separate to make paintint easier.

it's a common technique for historical scale modelers.
Basically the same as using pigments. You just have to make sure you varnish the model before it rubs off.

I was thinking about trying to convert the metal cannoness model anyone got any good ideas? sorry

broadly speaking the body is a big chunk of metal with an inset sculpted head, all you can really do is some weapon swaps or possibly a headswap if you wanted to carve it out.

>You came to the wrong neighborhood, heretek

Looks solid. I've seen other anons do similar. Tried it once, but didn't like how easily it would rub off when using minis for games

You're supposed to varnish after

Reposting from last thread:
What color should I paint his cloak, /wip/? He's a Tzeentchian disciple/traitor guardsman, and a wip. I'm a pretty new painter and am open to other C&C, too.

yo /wip/, what bases would your recommend DKOK arty pieces, like the thudd gun and whatnot? Been looking around and I think 80mm is the right size, but I don't want stuff too cramped either

something to contrast with the blue of the cloak, magenta maybe

Fug, forgot the image.

I'm a slow painter and will play with models that aren't finished yet

Has anyone told you about paint thinning yet? I'm sure they have.

TYP for christ sake

I assume the main issue would be easy removal through transport/ touching.
Seal it?

I do thin my paints, I think that's actually from the spray primer. It seems to have went on chunky for that batch.

Same. But I usually do a layer of gloss right after the highlight so I can then apply decals and nuln/agrax wash without staining the mini darker. So it will work for me since it gets covered immediately.

Yeah you need to cover it with something. I don't understand why anyone wouldn't varnish anyway. Paint comes off super easy without it... especially if you're grabbing wads of casualties to remove from the table.

I have a bit of a lighting problem in my workspace. It's too damn dark, even with 100 watt bulbs. I often have to squint to pick out details. How can I fix this?

multiple light sources, open your blinds to let in sunlight. LED bulbs tend to be brighter

One of these with a cap light attached to the top.

amazon.com/gp/product/B0015IS6K2

more lamps, daylight bulbs

I bought something like this: amazon.de/Northpoint-Vergrößerungsglas-Vergrößerungslampe-Arbeitsplatzlampe-Farbtemperatur/dp/B01N13ZBF1/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1519167340&sr=8-13&keywords=Arbeitslampe
It's basically a lamp for soldering or other craftwork. Comes with a magnifying glass (Although I've never really used it) and a ring of bright LEDs. Might want to keep up your regular light too, but it's a good start.

Strip it then. I've had fuzzy bois before and its a result of either temperature issues or you holding the can too far back.

I did a shit prime recently, then stripped and warmed up the primer can in water first on the rec of user, turned out great no fuzzies

Forsooth, I did not chooseth the life of a degenerate, alas the life of a degenerate chose I.

Okay, seriously. How hard is it to dip your brush in that mug of that water sitting on the table?

the colour is nice but it honestly looks like you've used marzipan instead of paint

T H I C C

I thin paints religiously. A huge problem with that model is that it's a somewhat badly-filed-down old AobR model with some sloppy greenstuffing (neck area f.ex), which gives it lumpy surfaces to begin with (like the chest area, the aquila wasn't filed down right).

It's barely noticeable face to face but unfortunately macro setting makes it look a bit yucko...

amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUTAFR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this Taotronics lamp and its great. You can change the brightness and color of the light so it also works as a nice warm desklamp in the evenings on top of a bright technical white light.

I like it a lot user it's got that bright goofy Emperor's children look to it and love the thicker gaps in the recesses. Powerfists are always fun.

...

I asked last thread, but didn't get many responses. Other than the big 4 paint lines(GW, Vallejo, P3, and Reaper), what are some other brands you guys would recommend?

>looking up how to paint up grots
>get this youtube.com/watch?v=FMiblhqhFxg
>it's the exact same as the ork skin tutorial
DUNCAAAAAAAAN

...

Thank you, I appreciate it. Powerfists are really cool on Exalted Champions. Cheap character/tank hunters that you can sneak through enemy lines.

Base rhinox hide and dry brush ushabti bone then screaming skull. Wash with agrax and call it a day

>warmed up the primer can in water first
tell me more

>Orks and grots are the same species
>WHY DO THEY HAVE THE SAME SKIN COLOUR REEEEE
user, I...

Scale 75 comes to mind. Warpainter has a paint range, AK has some for scale modeling, those should work too (Although you might need paint thinner). Don't know about the quality though.

I'm a super slow painter and have already mostly painted this squad, but I'll do that in the future. Thanks for the advice!

>Warpainter
Meant army painter, duh.

Any thoughts on how to mimic ushabti bone by mixing basic colors? GW paints are so expensive that I try not to buy too many and mix instead.

You can fuck RIGHT OFF
Ork and Grots have noticeably different skin color in 'eavy metal paintjobs

Well, there's like a hundred different tutorials on how to paint them. Surely one of them fits.
youtube.com/results?search_query=painting grots

>Not having levels of autism high enough that make you strip an entire squad and start again
I stripped my Scions 3 times until I was happy with them.

>warpainter
did you mean Army Painter?

>can't afford to buy a $4 pot of paint every now and then
>somehow affords $25-100 boxes of models

This. Cut out junk/fast food once or twice a month and you can get 3 more paint pots.

What's the best undercoat for dark angels? White,grey or black?

Ditch the ugly oversized cartoony skull-on-a-pole. The rest of the model looks good. Don't ruin it with an elaborately bad part.

>not being stingy on random, unimportant nonsense
It's like you two are neurotypical or some stupid shit.

Plus, mixing paint is fun

For Raven/Greenwing go black, for Deathwing take White.

>being stingy on random, unimportant nonsense

>unpredictable results
>more effort
>but at least I saved $4
>this is so much fun
k

At the moment, I just want to get painted models on the table. Tired of having a grey hoard.

>cover thumb tip with thin layer of glue
>have the most flexible of cutting boards
Good thing my knife is as blunt as it is.

Good paint job, but you wallet is crying about the fact you just paid $35 for a single grot.

>tfw suck at thinning paints
Should i just buy the air paints instead?

Use airbrush medium. It's more forgiving than water.

All you have to do is add a bit of water to some paint on a wet palette, which is some baking sheet paper on a wet paper towel.

Thanks for your recommendations user, I'll do some research and see what I like best.

I know that but i can never get the same consistency multiple times. Should i just get the citadel air range?

It looks like they just ripped a whole smurf village apart.

Like painting a masterpiece, its a work of heart. You just feel what works by how your brush interacts with it over time.

Motherfucker did you just quote Hercules?

>he didn't learn painting from Hercules
What are you, a faggot?