WIP - Work In Progress General

Hat looks great.

I just can't get the hang of thinning my paints.

If I add water the paint will always dry out before I even finish the coat, will still leave brush marks and seeps into cracks, filling them but if I add any more it turns straight into a wash.

I just can't get it to apply smoothly without marks and I feel like I'm racing against time with it drying.

The little hanging moon would make sense yellow I guess? Maybe the chicken foot looking thing too.

plastic glue is easier to work with. The bond is not immediate so you can move the piece or tear it off, even after it has settled for a while. Super glue's bond is usually immediate, but it doesn't melt the plastic so breaking it off doesn't damage the mini, only breaking it off is much more difficult.
the codex will have the equipment labeled, when it comes out

Thanks
I think I want something on the shaman himself though, I was thinking maybe the rope across his belly or freehanding a moon on how hat

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Watch the DIY wet palette video in the OP and start doing that. It will solve your thinning problem and your paint drying too fast problem.

Any tips on how to do eyes properly on grey knights/space marines?

I've been looking into a wet palette but I don't have any of the baking paper it needs and it's 3 in the morning.

I couldn't find anything about a substitute for it

White background, layer in whatever color you want. Then, IMPORTANT, carefully paint the interior edges around the eyes with black. That way, you get nice bright eye lenses and a striking eyeliner effect for maximum contrast.

c u t e
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Get paint out of the bottles in small batches. You're always gonna waste almost as much paint as you put on the model, it's just a fact of life.

Also caved in an ordered some metal minis to add to them.

Easy-to-build Primaris ready to go!

Saving up now for Dark Imperium set which will be a good project for a few months :)

Not bad, but I think I see nubs and mold lines. Work on cleaning those next time when you're building.

reposting from yesterday.
Going to be painting up the axe next, trying to decide on what sort of effect to go with

Damn, that’s a smooth paint job. Clean and simple. I like it.

Hell Cowboy hat complete!

Made some progress on this only 3 more nurglings maybe a little more on the base aswell

Asking again, any idea which paint might suit that purple?

Noob painter here with a question:

Citadel has this base/layer/edge system where they base first, then layer, edge etc.

Why is basing necessary? I often prime white and the layer paints seem good after ~1-2 coats. Does it make any difference?

ALSO, regarding that system, what if I want my middle color to be a base color? I would simply highlight with the next layer paint, yes?

Oh man, I'm tempted to try that. Would it look too dumb though?

The base paints are usually thicker/have more pigment than the layer paints, so it's easier to get a good finish with them. They're also good if you leave some of it exposed, as since the base is darker than the layer it just looks like shadows. You don't need to use them at all though, especially if you're priming white.

I don't think it would. Just don't do too many and overcrowd it.

Their base paints are primer.

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I'm thinking of picking up some cheap minis from www.em4miniatures.com/acatalog/Copy_of_Fantasy.html

Why aren't they included in the Paste Bin of mini makers?

What
I dont think their base paints have any of the qualities of primer.

she has crackhead teeth

she's a savage and more than likely been smacked in the face multiple times, her having decent teeth would be even wierder.

can anyone recommend me where to proceed in looking for alpharius' contact info

i have every other recaster but I want his tanks :(

Base coating on two leman russes completed. Next up...

...dipping!

fug wrong before pic. Not too much difference.

how are the Mars-Alpha kits, in terms of handling, resin, sanding/greenstuffing and whatnot? Really tempted to get an Annihilator from cheap-n-fast

dipping looks good on that. How big a dipping jar do you need for a Russ? What brand did you use?

Base is not primer at all, but is a good undercoat that is opaque

I go primer, base, wash with nuln oil, rebase leaving shaded areas dark, layer, highlight

and it looks f-ing awesome

They're pretty good. The hulls are a little bearish to get together and they don't come with track guards or sponsons or anything. Beautiful kits, though.

Thanks! For tanks, I actually just brush it on.
Actually dipping these guys would be a recipe for an ocean of half-dried stainglob inside of the body. Minwax polyshades antique walnut.

Pic related is how the infantry look dipped.

More to the point I guess, there's a little warpage in everything and you should expect to sand and bend a lot of things. The trench rails are super flimsy and the warpage they're prone to makes them really hard to set properly.

Welcome to the greater good brother.

For the turret the SMS is the double stacked missiles, the single stack is the normal.

For the crisis suits just google it.

Also, try to prime in paint the suits in sub assemblies. This shit is hell otherwise.

Is it okay to post Kingdom Death: Monster minis here?

Finished him up a week ago. Leaving the base blank for now, looking for some plastic vegetation to make a little garden underneath him. Any recommendations?

tried out an obsidian effect for the axe, it's pretty tricky to get a decent photo of it since it's quite shiny.

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This thread is for all hobby stuff. I have no idea what that is but it looks cool

Not op
But

Kingdom death minis are pretty cool and pretty common

You see alot of them on coolminisornot

I'd look there or Google for ideas

I had to stop doing that because my paintjobs were rapidly turning to shit after about 01:00.
Sort your sleep cycle out user.
Also eat your vegetables and do 30 minutes of exercise a day.

Got to be honest with you, preferred it without the additional gubbinz.
Looks good as is though.

Lookin' noice.
Are you going full vegetation, or stone faces with some sprouts?
Either way, your FLGS is probably the easiest for actual plant-looking things.

Is this a meme now? I'm sure it's been like 6 months, normally a phone screenshot.

Was thinking one stone face, and then loads of vegetation growing outwards from the face. Maybe one skeleton of some poor survivor long swallowed up, spat out, and stomped into fertilizer. But yeah, the FLGS is where I'll look, or maybe an arts/crafts store. Or I can always check online for some Chinese knock off recaster for some decent alternative terrain pieces. Here's another angle showing the mouth. I wanted the teeth to be pure, clean and white to contrast with the bloody, sinewy flesh. Took that idea from some of the imagery in Silent Hill 3

Send your work to GW, they will publish it.

>Obsidian Axe

Krell in Drag?

definitely needs a smoother transition. Would be a shame to leave it like that.
For the hair, I'd suggest drybrushing. You could pick any colour really, so it'll depend on what you're gonna do for the rest of the mini.
But try to take a different hue but same value and drybrush that and you'll get a nice colour shifting effect.

Don't forget to post your finished job to the KD thread, I'm sure they'll enjoy it.

Alright user, I know one of you saved it to your hard drive, so would you be so kind and find me that tutorial on how to paint many ork skin tones? I'm pretty sure it was here I saw it ages ago. Some dude got like fourty orks and based them in a few tones, added a few tones of ink, highlights, etc. And lo! He had a fantastic bunch of orks who didn't all have the exact same boring colour.
Anyone know what I'm on about? Can't find it again for the life of me.

Sup Veeky Forums, I've never painted gold before, and I couldn't help myself when I found out that the Custodes were being released. Now that I'm painting them, I'm finding that my washes make the model too dark, and sometimes they pool in places. Would spraying it with Purity Seal help fix the pooling? Also, I'm trying to achieve gold with some depth, would doing a drybrush in silver followed by a brownish wash (either Reikland or Seraphim) help with that? the silver drybrush would pick up the high points of the model while the wash would make it look gold, or am I crazy?

Basecoat Retributor> Wash Reikland> Layer Auric Armour> Highlight Liberator> Highlight Stormcast. Is this what you're doing?

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Yeah, that was the theory, but I feel like when I layer with Auric Armor, I didn't really do anything in the previous steps, and I'm not noticing the Liberator Gold enough, and too much silver ruins the model.

Liberator gold gives a really peachy colour, I generally dont even bother using it and go straight for stormcast silver, if it's overpowering just use less of it, either thinner highlights or on less surfaces. You can drybrush but that will have the same effect and you'll have to do some more washes to bring down the tone.

normally i don't like gloss varnish, but this guy makes it look good. really cool work!

Dude on the right reminds me heartily of these guys.

i swear the only thing this dude is missing is a baseball cap.

オルクは種族として植物だったはずだが

Ignore the shit priming, it's a test model.

Any advice on how to properly highlight so it doesn't look like shit?

drybrush?

I heard it's lazy and doesn't look as good.. I want to do it right

Are you talking about doing a varnish after your base coat so the wash doesn't pool?

Thin paint, small brush and angle to just catch the edge.

what colors did you use for the ground?

So while I'm waiting for my primer I thought I'd reward the progrss I've made so far by working on another miniature; this is one of the old Grenadier Dwarf giant crossbows. I was previously considering getting a Foundry Bombard for cannon, etc, but I just loved these miniatures and the idea of them, and they fit with the aesthetic a lot better. Plus, gotta love bolt throwers.

Didn't have the bow, so I carved one out of some plastic and wrapped the center in green stuff. Looks acceptable to me.

英語でおk!

I also want to talk a bit about my concept for this army.

This isn't intended for any one system. Warhammer Fantasy Battles, Kings of War, Dragon Rampant, Swordplay, etc are just a few of the games I intend on using these miniatures for. They'll be multibased, with four or three to a base depending on how I model them, etc with some wound counters I'll convert up from the plastic dwarves.

However, the way I'm going to get around base sizes for games like KoW, or to add another two to a rank easily is these little side segments. For now, I'll leave them blank, but the plan is to add interesting things on them; character models, terrain pieces, accessories, items of interest, etc. This will allow me to basically form up whatever size units I want (I'm also considering using some and mounting them horizontally if I ever get some units I want in a single line).

However, as you can see, I can basically make the basic base sizes for units, so I can rank up 5, 7, 10, 13, etc giving me a lot more flexibility when it comes to playing other wargames.

No no, this is brand new and official (but thank you anyway).
I'm talking about an user posting a photo tutorial of his experiment. He had like four base colours, four inks, four highlights and he'd pick one of each at random and just let it happen.
It was a great idea but I just wanted to see the final results with all the orks again.

Any recaster sells Johnny?

Wait... Is that from 4em?

I dunno, does that look lazy to you? Because that's 100% drybrushing.
The laziness is in the painter, not the technique, user.

Yes they are. The bulk of the army is going to be these Nick Lund Grenadier plastic dwarves. I've carved the bases down and clipped some off to give some variety in height; I've also done the basic flash remove and carved down the injection ports on the backs of the Spear and Axe dwarves; I plan on hiding the injection port on the back of the crossbow dwarves with shields.

I actually really like that old school monopose look a lot; it's got a real charm to it, it sort of makes sense when you consider that most people in formation will look similar/similar pose etc and it'll give the army a nice unique look when done in this day and age of multi-pose miniatures.

I do also plan on including some more metal miniatures though. I bought some of the old Grenadier metal dwarves (12 of them including command) from Folorn Hope Games; 8 of these will be front rank miniatures for four bases, while the command group will be their own stand. I could just convert some of the plastics into command figures, etc but I decided that I rather like the metals. I might buy some more from Mirliton or pick up something like the giant cannon kit for a set piece, but I'm just taking it slow for now. Right now, my plan is to get these painted up; what you see there in the pic is enough to play a game, whether it be Dragon Rampant, or a small game of KoW (with the base system) or WFB. Then slowly build up and up as I go and get through the 116 plastic dwarves I have left over.

Drybrushing is quick and easy, it is not inherently lazy. It's good for quick highlighting and especially for metallic paints. If time is not an issue or you're not going for an effect drybrushing can give, then use edge highlighting or a different technique of your choice.

Stop falling into traps made by elitist pricks. Use what products and techniques which work for you.

WIP Wardens. Im unsure about the green gems and power axes, but too late now.

Man the laziness is steaming off that wing.

haha, nice!
What game do you play?

Getting there on this hsien. Gotta get his second arm on today after work!

They look really nice, but the green with black makes them look kind of... evil, I guess. Seems more like a magical/corrupt theme. Looks cool and unique though.

drybrushing can look great.

but i recommend going basecoat, drybrush, then washes.

usually you would wash in the middle, but by washing after, you standardise the colours and hides any drybrush that got into crevices.

I'm working on pic related, trying to decide if I want to weather it up a bit.

And here's the tank commander himself.

It's certainly different from what everybody else is painting, but there is nothing inherently wrong with a gold/green scheme. Maybe if you paint the plume and robe and leather bits with a green tint it should keep things consistent and they'll stand out as a clearly different unit.

Nothing at the moment; I've been out of wargaming for a while; so my thought was to do this to get a nice cheap army that I can use for lots of different systems or even soloplay, so if I turn up to a club and they play WFAB or KoW, I can play that, or if they use other system, I can play those with a bit of bodging (unless it's something like HOTT, but meh) or play things myself.

It's also a good way to basically relearn miniature painting as it's been ages; nice simple monopose miniatures with some metal ones to add character should be good to get back into things.

Nice. Factory fresh is best.

Black base, Martian ironearth, drybrush orange.

Looks fucking incredible.

Beautiful work. Only issue is that when the paint job is so clean, the mould lines really stand out and bother me.

2nd for the wet palette. I use craft store paints (and get constant shit for it) and I have to squeeze it out of the bottle. I was always having to add more water to my paint on the dry palette as it slowly dried, and it was really hard to find a balance. The wet palette makes it so much easier to keep stable.