What the fuck were they thinking when they sculpted this face?
Ethan Harris
Going to start work on my Thousand Sons army next week and I'm unsure of colour schemes. I used to be sold on the blue/gold but the codex and other factors made me consider a few others. Got some questions so I can order some new paints.
- How to do the Hermetic Blades scheme? It seems like a blue version of Nihilakh Oxide got put over white, but it's probably not that easy. - Any idea on how to do a nice Sandstone and Egyptian papyrus colour?
Elijah Allen
R8 my 2nd Company Captain. Planning to magnetise his back so he can either use a jump pack or go on foot. Comments, criticism?
Liam Turner
Drill your barrels Pretty dirty, especially on seals Not enough contrast, overall paintjob seems pretty messy.
Levi Martin
Dirty look is intentional, is there any may to make it look better? Same with contrast, how do I increase it without radically changing the paint scheme?
Adrian Parker
Meme your paints - the greaves in particular look a bit streaky.
Consider either highlighting the metal or re-inking the edges around the collar and breastplate skull.
As the other user said, a generally dark and muddy job - fine if that's the plan, but it would look nice with a bit more contrast.
Of course, this is all in the context of a poorly lit too-close photo, it probably looks fine on the table.
Isaac Hill
Not that guy, but I've heard the advice that painting a nice clean paintjob and then weathering/dirtying it up afterwards gives the best effect.
Christian Brooks
Does anyone know what the official citadel paints are for Blood Ravens?
Christopher Torres
Another layer between the brown and bone would make the transition a lot smoother without making it look clean, and also give you better-appearing coverage with the bone. A light drybrush back over the silvers would lift some of it out from the oiled/dark bits. A wash over the reds followed by re-hilighting would help too. At the moment it's all very dirty but as a result it's all flattened into one dirty layer. For pretty much all of your colours, do an extra layer between your base colour and the highest colour you've used here.
Jayden Morris
Thanks for the advice anons. Did a quick test this morning and I think a lot of the problem is with the fact that I primed black, and I had to slap the ushabti bone on pretty thick to get it to stop showing black through. I'll post a picture when I finish the test model (which was primed white), hopefully a little better lit.
In the meantime, here's some of my other dudes (with all the issues mentioned on the captain).
Matthew Watson
What colour would you recommend for the transition between the brown and the ushabti bone? And it's not visible in the pic but I did do exactly that with the silver on his shoulderpads, oiled boltgun to normal boltgun to mithril. I did it only minimally in his front but now that you mention it there's no good reason not to.
Camden Taylor
>I had to slap the ushabti bone on pretty thick
Thus making your minis look like crap. If your technique makes it look like you applied the paint with a sponge, you're using the wrong technique.
Try priming in beige if you want to use light colours. And really you should strip those dudes and paint them again, otherwise they'll drag the look of your army down.
Angel Cox
Khorne red for special heresy points.
Kevin Rodriguez
Kek there's nothing to drag down, they're all that I have painted so far, alongside the captain and one lieutenant. They look ok on the table so I think stripping them is a very long term goal at best.
Easton Lee
Is there an official name for these flyer stem attachment thingiemabobs ? Or does somebody know a place that sells these ?
Charles Allen
Im buying some bases in advance. Does anyone here know what bases go with the Necron ghost arc warriors?
Hunter Walker
Finally started in on trying to white gloss my /ss/ constructs for the FoP thing.
This is one coat over most of the surface. It's difficult to tell where I've already covered when painting extremely thin white onto primed white.
Holy shit do I need to stop working at night by the light of my single desk lamp - I thought it was going ok.
As expected, the gloss doesn't show up for shit, but all those previously invisible grains and mould lines sure do. Also, I think the gloss medium is slowly shagging my favourite layering brush to death. Maybe the next three or four thin coats of gloss medium + Skull White will save it. It won't, stop lying to yourself and do it anyway.
>I primed black, and I had to slap the ushabti bone on pretty thick to get it to stop showing black through. I understand that it's tiresome, and the first couple of coats will look terrible, but if you want to go light over dark and not look streaky, it has to be multiple thin coats unless you are a wizard.
It's not such a problem if your grunts stand out less due to the muddy effect - they aren't meant to be the eye-grabber.
Levi Robinson
Back in the day it was a custom mix of.. red gore and elf flesh (2:1 mix), if I'm remembering right.
Kevin Adams
50:50 brown and bone. Nothing magic, you just want a gentler transition.
I also don't think they are bad enough to warrant stripping yet - just don't enter them into any competitions.
What do you mean? If you want some pre-made bases for your necrons, there are literally hundreds of options - just hit eBay or your preferred online store and look at what they have. If you're asking if there are official GW bases for them - probably, but they'll be awful pricey and look exactly like everyone else's.
Blake Allen
I entered into a painting competition with these today. What does Veeky Forums think of these scythebois?
Asher Cox
>What do you mean? I just want to know which size their bases are.
Tyler Robinson
They look very lovely. I feel the hoods could use some dirt; they look just a tad too clean to me.
Logan Sanchez
THE BASES COME WITH THE UNITS.
Camden Parker
I get what you mean, how would I go about that? I've never tried something like that kind of weathering before.
Ethan Long
I want to know what size they are! 25mm, 32mm, 40mm, 50mm?
Anthony Hughes
That fridge is so clean! Good job, user!
Landon Ramirez
>Necron ghost arc warriors? They look like standard Warriors, so 32mm bases according to the GW site. If you wanted the skellingbones on bases while in the Arc though, then pennies might just fit.
Samuel White
Some light washes/dabs with brown inks?
Cameron Howard
>That fridge is so clean! Aye, I'm impressed. Cleanest lightbox seen on Veeky Forums in a good while. Your boys are looking around like they don't know what to do about it.
Josiah Cox
Sorry to derail /wip/, but I couldnt get an answer on any other thread. And this is kinda related to the thread. Where do you guys get bits and pieces to use for scenery and base decoration (grass, bush)? It there a guide to make my own? Im mostly interested on fantasy (that can be used for games and ttrpgs) and sci-fi stuff. Thank you.
Joseph Turner
owdooguy on youtube (Channel: LukesAPS) has a whole metric arseload of vidoes on making all sorts of terrain-making shit, from the 3D structure of the piece to the flocks and trees to put on it.
Decent instructions, cheap, and delivered with a charmingly regional accent.
Alternatively, buy it for astounding cost from your game supplier of choice.
William Flores
/wip/ I put together a rhino last night and when it was all said and done (and full glued) I realized I put the back panel (the one that opens up) on backwards. The floor is whats facing out the backside of my rhino. I'd never build a warhammer vehicile before so I must have just somehow overlooked its position. Probably focusing too much on how the front/sides looked.
Is there any way to salvage this, or should I just keep it this way. I might be able to clip off the little peg to pull it out of the hole, flip the panel and then glue the peg back into the panel while its already in the post but I don't know if that'd make it jiggly on the sides which I think would look worse.. Worst comes to worst I could just glue the whole door on the right direction but that feels like a waste of a function on the model.
James Ward
Ha thanks for the comments about my fridge and dudes. I'll agree that they do look a bit out of place amidst all that clean white.
Wouldn't that just look a bit like they're just washed? I thought you meant dirt as in some sort of caked on dirt.
A wash in the right places could look pretty bitching though. Might try that out, thanks for the suggestion.
Caleb Rogers
Thats just what I was looking for! Thank you very much, user!
Eli Smith
post pics. tell us what kind of glue you used.
Matthew Howard
Quick question: Is it too late for me to try and bend this staff back into shape, now that it's painted? Staff is from Alarielle finecast model from warhammer fantasy.
Dylan Torres
todays progress
Andrew Cruz
It was just plastic glue. And literally the only difference between my rhino and how its supposed to look is that the back panel is backwards so that the part thats pointing inside is pointing outside.
Wargames General is a discord server with 200 members, that's full of swedes with all the painting skill of a drunk toddler. Please help.
Gabriel Lewis
fuck off
Jose Howard
Anyone know if the Wych crew in the venom kit is compatible with raiders? Seems silly to have my wych filled raiders covered in kabalites.
Cameron Thompson
I'm torn between thinking his tutorials are very good and the fact that he looks and sounds like a gormless simpleton when he's doing it
Jackson Rivera
Heres the bugger.
Angel Parker
>Discords
Angel Lopez
If you're feeling crafty, you could try warming your model up with a hairdryer until you can pop the door out and back in. I wouldn't really advise it though, you might ending up warping the whole model. Probably best to turn it into a joke and blame your resident idiot servitor.
Grayson Diaz
Old warriors were 25mm but now they go on 32mm. But yes the set should come with them. Are you sneakily trying to play with paper cutouts or something and don't want to admit it? Why the obscurity?
Parker Cook
>Where do you guys get bits and pieces to use for scenery and base decoration (grass, bush)? Depends on what you mean by bits and pieces. If you mean general materials for building scenery like cardboard or foam them packaging materials or harware stores. You can get scrap pieces of mdf for very little money for example. If you are just looking for general information on building scenery look either in this threads OP or the 40k one and dl the How to build scenery books by GW. They'll tell you everything you need to know. If by bit and pieces you mean something like old toys or extra bits from miniatures than that is stuff you just collect along the way. It pays to visit dollar stores/Poundland/1€ stores a visit from time to time for cheap stuff you can use as scenery. >It there a guide to make my own? I already mentioned the books. Which really tell you everything you need to know. If you want video tutorials check out The Terrain Tutor on youtube. The guy has a habit of rambling on endlessly, but his stuff is very solid.
John Morgan
lewd
Michael Bennett
Here it is from the front if you're attracted to boxes
Michael Ward
It's written right there on the GW website : 32mm for the warriors, 40mm for the scarab things that come with them. Even a recaster would provide a base, though. don't they?
Luke Garcia
Acrylic is fairly flexible, usually. Primer and varnishes not so much, though. But you can always try, can't you? A bit of hairdryer and see what happens. You'll let us know if you fuck it up, won't you user?
James Phillips
I need some advice. We just got our yearly bonuses at work and outside of some money I'm squirreling away I was thinking of finally splurging on an air brush. I normally just hand brush everything and spray prime out of the can, but I'm planning on doing a lot of larger models this spring and summer and it would take forever to do with a tiny little brush.
Only thing is I've never used one before and I have no fucking clue what I'm supposed to be looking for but I'd like to get one that will do a good job and last a long time. Anyone have any in particular that they recommend or have had good luck with?
This is the one I got, the initial cost is for a decent compressor and tank. It comes with an airbrush to learn on. It serves my purposes for base coating pretty well.
Ethan Martinez
Still working on it but I thought I'd show my progress on my second base Still need to do the guardsmen and apply some matte varnish
Ian Ross
Another angle. Made the space marine an Iron Hand
Matthew Bennett
And the two planes thus far. Need to thing of a pattern for the left one.
Adam Allen
No name to my knowledge. You should just drill a hole in the flyer where that is and use a brass rod to hold the whole thing up. See
Brandon Barnes
>Or does somebody know a place that sells these ? Dragon forge sells bases, adapters and acrylic rods for flyers. But I don't think they go onto the GW bases.
Landon Sanders
For my planes which I posted I sawwed off metal rods from a shelf rack and sanded the edges.
Adrian Walker
Almost there with this big badass boy. Missiles, base and something to become glass in the cockpit.
Is the Citadel Dry range only good for drybrushing? I understand it's thick as fuck but some of the colours are super bright which would be baller if I can thin them down and turn them into layers or glazes.
Gavin Perez
just mix 1:1 white, same thing
Luis Rivera
No it's not, nowhere near some of the tints available.
Jaxon Wright
Warrior demon from creaturecaster wip. Going to be a stand in for a bloodthirster if they brong bacl daemonkin if not its just a fun piece.
Jordan Perry
...
Kevin Martin
they are pastel colors. Of course you can mix them.
What do you think is so special about them?
Adrian Anderson
I heard they put in talc to make them better for drybrushing.
Josiah Myers
...
Logan Foster
>that gaping in the armpit
Caleb Wood
Brand new to 40K. I want to build my Tau using plastic glue. Will I be able to find the right kind someplace like Hobby Lobby, and if so, will it just be labeled as plastic glue?
I don't want to make the two-hour round trip to the nearest gaming store that sells GW stuff.
Jacob Flores
even if that's the case there is nothing stopping you from mixing talcum in yourself if you want to give that a whirl. But people have been drybrushing with regular paint just fine. I don't really see what could be conceivably improved by adding a powder into the paint.
Jaxon Fisher
I've no idea. I just want to know if there are any paints that are super bright like some of the dry ones. Imrik blue is beautiful, is there a layer paint like that?
Also are the gemstone technicals any good or are there better ones in other brands?
Carson Bell
don't use plastic glue. use super glue. super glue allows for taking parts off again. plastic glue doesn't.
Julian Campbell
Heard about putting tiny BBs into metallic paint bottles to agitate them when they are shaken to keep them alive longer. Is it true, and what do I need to know?
Jonathan Moore
polystyrene cement, plastic model glue, yeah
Testors model cement is okay, and should be at those stores.
Cooper Allen
Use glass or stainless steel ones so they don't rust
Landon Johnson
...
Dylan Sullivan
Its not assembled yet just put it in the slot for the picture
Christopher Young
Has anyone ordered any bits from puppetswar? What are the quality and material like?
Daniel Morgan
Just pop the fucker off and glue it back on. I understand the appeal of a functional hatch and painted interior on your space truck, but it just won't matter on the tabletop.
When you get another couple vehicles you can make one your masterpiece with painted interiors and working window wipers and shit.
Jaxson Rivera
With all the Primarines faffing about, I've been tempted to dust off my inspiration folder of realistic IG: lost the aircraft subdivision (it was just putting in all wings backwards so they were swept like mordian7th.blogspot.com/search/label/Vendetta), but here's some TONKS:
Ayy dude, you're a star, thank you for the effort. Really appreciate it!
Easton Thompson
Newfag here who has been having a fucking time with primer. How does this look? I’m a bit paranoid so I’d like a second opinion on if it’s fucky or not.
William Butler
Its fucky alright. Rough finish that will look fucked when you paint. Happens when the spray dries on the way to the model. Spray from 6-8 inches away (about a hang-loose distance from pinky to thumb tip)
You'll have to strip him to fix the texture. Use SuperClean, the purple stuff. Make sure you wear gloves to protect your weak flesh.
Nolan Reyes
Fug. I'll try to make sure it's closer next time.
Incidentally should I try using something other than corax white as a primer? (I heard it's a bit temperamental). Does Krylon work alright?
Jonathan Stewart
How's my SW land raider looking?
Jonathan Lopez
Different user here, I've been using Humbrol white matt primer for my minis and having a grand old time with it. I can't say either way for Krylon though.
Tyler Allen
>Use SuperClean, the purple stuff. How is that stuff compared to simple green? I'm currently using the latter, but I hear good things about SuperClean.
Jonathan Sullivan
Do you guys bother buying colours that you can easily mix from your current inventory?
Logan Cooper
If I'm just painting a single mini, then no. If I'm about to paint an army in that color then yes.
Julian Hernandez
If i can buy a colour rather than mix it I usually do. Just to be sure it's going to be consistent, I don't have to worry about mixing it wrong.
Charles Clark
Simple green is weak soap. Superclean is powerful chemical warfare agent that removes paint like kebob.
When it works its nice, but as you've seen, yeah. It's temperamental. Carefully monitor your distance, consider doing multiple coats to err on the side of putting on less because it loves to dry slowly and clump up detail, and check your weather conditions.
