WIP - Work In Progress General

Watch me WIP, watch me may-may Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>Thin ya paints, ladz!
youtu.be/wxWgsqSf74s

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is *ours*, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

pig-iron-productions.com/kolony-ferals-c-3.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Guys, I need some recommendations. What are the best skeleton models for the price?
I'm looking to bulk up on bone boiz. Material is irrelevant but I'm looking for around 28-32mm scale, realistic or heroic doesn't matter to me.
I saw one user make some pretty cool looking doods from Perry Footknights and some asst. skeleton bitz but I didn't save the photo. I don't suppose anyone has it and/or knows what skeleton bitz he used?

He used GW skellie bitz

Working on a Daemon Prince for my Death Guard. Just need to touch up a few details with green stuff and I can get to priming.

Side view.

I will probably regret not taking better pictures, and im sure I will find about twenty minor things to fix in the next few days, but here is the result of the last month or so:
Demon Primarch Lorgar, The Faithful Son.
Standing proud at about 23cm or 9" tall this is the final centerpiece for my Faithful Sons Word Bearer sect. I decided against the horns, because one horn in every cardinal direction just looks silly when its not in 2D and I love the bald look.

looks good that mate

space marine for scale?

Here is a cultist

Trying to make some Borg minis.

bignigga.jpg

He's a big guy.
I admire your dedication to butchering several large kits for this.

Is that really a kitbash?

Seeing as it ended up as the penultimate post of the last thread, I'll post again. Thoughts on my wall made of sprue bits? Should I keep with the crumbled ruin look, or attempt to build it into a full tower?

The only thing I had to buy was nagash himself. There is a bit-trade in a nearby town every year and I usually buy a lot of interesting stuff, that has yet to find a clear purpuse.
Yea, it was build out of Nagash. Bonus points for someone to guess the other bits. Here is an early wip

So my DM 3D printed a Giant Purple Wurm that's about 7 inches tall and I volunteered to clean up the model and give it a paintjob.

Any recommendations for good purple colors to use from the Citadel range? Store only got those and ordering others is more expensive then just picking those up.
Alternatively, think I can get away with a good job by basing the model in one solid purple, give it a good wash and do the edge highlights using blue or red? Only needing one shade of purple would save a few bucks.

The 'halo' is the Chaos Warshrine from WFB, the pauldrons from the finished version seem to be from the maulerfiend kit (daemon prince pauldrons in the WIP). Front of the boots are more maulerfiend armor, I think. The arm holding the staff is from a daemon prince by the looks of it. The shoes are blank space marine pauldrons?

Nearly done applying the metal basecoat on these dwarves; got a few more to go that I'll finish tomorrow, then wash and highlight.

These em4 sculpts are odd; parts of them are great and parts of them are awful, especially in these spear dwarves; they're very soft sculpts in places.

Quite happy with the beards and the faces though.

Mace pole is a tootsie-pop stick.

It's amazing! And even with some of their recent achievements, I bet whatever GW comes up with won't look as good.

Applying transfers next, then weathering.

Nice and clean.

...

Great job, even caught the SM pauldrons. And now for the most obscure part: the gorget.

It'll be a little less neat once I'm done with the weathering and dull it down with matt varnish and powders. Trying to keep it simple but distinct since I have about a hundred more to paint.

the question is will you die before you finish

I don't recalls the exact number, but a box of GW skellies comes with 20+ heads, so if you get a box of perry models and gw skellies or even just buy the skull basing kit you can get a lot of mileage out of those models.

Mantic skeletons are popular as well, but personally I'm not a big fan of them. They are not anatomically correct. Although they do have a cartoony Evil Dead vibe about them.

Some people also put GW heads on Mantic bodies. A box of Mantic+GW skellies gives you the option to swap most of the unhelmeted heads for the - imo - nicer gw heads.
here's a picture of that for reference

A good question. To be honest, once I'd worked out the method and got a pile of sprue bits next to me, the progress isn't as slow as you'd imagine.

But now you're stuck with an axe. Thats assuming thats what you're counting the scythe as.
Unless you're counting those 2 little arms as a pair of malefic claws.

Just finished pinning it, so here's the model in question.
I hate that I can probably not get a completely smoth surface and sharp edges brcause the plastic is way too hard to file down or cut.

What do people generally use to hold smaller bits like heads when painting?

Pretty impressive even with the lines.

On paints, Citadel doesn't have a very even progression of purple; Xereus is the richest, but it's pretty dark, so you'd need Genestealer with plenty of dark wash for a medium color. Which would probably come out rather dull, but I don't know how intense you want the color anyway.

My fingers, if I'm being honest. Either that or attach it to the torso, if it remains easily accessible.

A sprue nub superglued to the bottom

You could use some blue tack with a stick like object, but it might be a little wobbly depending on contact points.

I was thinking a relatively dark but vivid purple, leaning on the red-ish spectrum. The "generic" Tyranid carapace tone was what I was generally imagining, then paint the edges of each individual plate with red.

I have no idea how to get good results with those tones and the carapace look, however, since I normally only paint Black Templars and white Skitarii. Was hoping to get some advice on what makes for a decent grape-y purple look. Not opposed to just picking up a base purple and a good highlight purple/pink if the results of that will be far better than any purple/red plating. My group's probably going to chime in for those paints anyway since I'm doing the job of painting it for the group.

Hm, if it's dark and vivid you want then you'll definitely want Xereus, but I haven't done enough experimenting with shading purple myself yet to tell you more than that, sorry.

Knowing to probably get Xereus as the base is already half the battle, thanks user. Worst case, I'll have to get crafty and experiment a bit.

Any good guides to paining dragons? I ordered a Reaper Bones one for an orc warlord and it's going to be the largest wargaming miniature I ever painted.

Making some progress on this ravager. Everything but the main body is mostly done excluding some clean up. I wanna make the decals not stand out, any ideas?

Nice color bro.

For decals to not stand out, I'll put them on the use a very diluted mix of like 4:1 water to pva glue to help tone down the glossy sheen.

Then I'll throw a wash over it or maube some battle damage.

Here's an example, an M8 I made

Sick of painting my marines, switched back to my FSE bros.

Basecoated the khorne red, need to clean up the black now before washing and highlighting.

Then I need to tackle that ghostkeel

>What do people generally use to hold smaller bits like heads when painting?

A small block of dense foam with the heads on metal posts.It's visible towards the back in this picture.

How do I prime a flying miniature? I'm used to assembling my miniatures, putting them on the base, then spray prime them black. I have a catacomb command barge in the mail and I realized my method won't work for a flying stand

>Failed first test of the semester
>Now feel like I don't deserve to paint minis at all and should be spending all time of all days studying math

Anyone else relate? How to properly manage time and stuff?

I would attach the barge to a separate holder for painting if you had the choice , then attach to the flying base after you clear coat; if you really need to attach it to the flying base prior to paint, you could always masking tape it off before you prime (or just paint it black after).

what do you guys think so far?

This is a problem, user.

Very nice so far. The yellow, apart from a few spots, is nice and thin and the bone white on the chests is well done.

I literally cannot tell what you zoomed in on

I'm digging it, agrax for the shade?

thanks, it's my first time painting in a couple of years and these guys are taking a while lol, the yellow is vallejo which i feel goes on a lot smoother than GW

seraphim sepia

front middle guys left shoulder pad

There's a number of sprue nubs and mold lined that weren't cleaned, which is a damned shame because that paint job is gorgeous

He's trying to tell you to trim yo shit mo betta

As a random smuck, I didn't notice at all

>get resin mini
>super nervous about breaking the flimsy parts
>use my airbrush to just blow it off instead of washing with water
>prime
>start basing
>find a tiny hair hidden in her hair now sealed in
fuuuuuuck me

I get so irritated trying to clean those bits myself, no matter how hard I try they always seem to still be visibly scarred through the paint.

I've found that once you've clipped and filed, switching to one of those Emery boards women use for their nails works wonders on polishing to a point paint will will imperfections

sorry im shit at building

FUCK just realized i forgot the skull on the left guys helmet when I was doing the aquilas

where did the heads come from?

that's damn fine for 3d printing, protip: i nearly blacked out while filing a 3d printed terrain piece, I assume from breathing in the dust, that was a white material so idk if everything has that effect but i'd probly wear a mask if I ever did it again

I'll make sure I have my window and door open to get some ventilation going if I do decide to file it down. Tempted to just leave the surface areas as they are and just trim the spikes a bit, though. Looks a bit like it's just the intended texture for the plates anyway.

do all homework first, then do fun stuff.

alternatively do fun stuff until the last minute then stay up til 5 am the night before the test desperately trying to memorize 47 flashcards you handmade that afternoon

White basecoat? Is that yriel yellow? If so, how many layers?

Thinking I should base white instead of averland sunset because the yriel takes about 30 layers.

Hi all, been nearly a year since I painted. I am trying to paint an Adeptus Arbites cyberhound to match the colour scheme of my enforcers, but I just don't feel that the scheme is working. Aside from the fact that White Scar paint is like dry mud, I just feel like something is wrong with my choice of colours and the arrangement of colours on the model.

Can I save this scheme? When the hound was fully metallic, it was too bland and monochrome, but with my attempt to incorporate the white into the model, I feel like I've made it worse.

Any help is appreciated.

i assumed the surface areas were meant to look like that too, they could certainly work that way. It kind of looks like there's a seam down the middle that might need some filing or trimming but I can't tell for sure. also some gs filling. the piece I was working with had really visible ridges and I wanted it to look like stone, so I went to town with a file

I think the dog is cute.

I require guidance, /wip/.

How do I into layer paints? When I try to apply them it leaves horrible streaks, and that seems to occur even after I've thinned the paint to the point of overthinning. What am I doing wrong?

I would give the white a good recess shade and the metal parts need a strong edge highlight, imho. Other than that it's pretty good.

As far as general color scheme the dog looks fine, honestly. If I had to change anything, I might make the main section of the head metallic with it's lower jaw being the white part.

Do you have any pictures of it?

Yeah there's some kind of seam down the belly. Seems like it was part of the model but I'll probably try to trim it away. The gap in the middle of the model is where the two halves connect, it's still lose and goes together smoothly with glue. I'll try to get it into a paintable state in the next few days and post it again for some final feedback before priming and painting.

Though I might post it before that to get some advice from Tyranid players on how to get some decent purple carapace going.

assuming the arbite's colour-scheme is white and black, then make the hound's painted plates white and black, instead of having white plates with the chrome to "stand in" for the black parts of an arbite's outfit. This will let you cut down on the amount of white and make it more of an accent, and give it a colour that it can contrast with more strongly than gold or silver.

alternatively you could just use black stripes and accents (eye and ear forms, bolts) to create more contrast and make kind of an inverse of the arbiter's colour scheme

As for white scar I tend to thin it down to the consistency of almost-water and just do 3+ layers, it's a pain to work with. this is, presumably, why gw sells so many shades of "almost white" to go under it.

Give me a moment to try and apply it again. The current piece I fucked up on is in a cup of simple green right now.

Best pic I could get of it.

>soak old painted/primed bit in simple green for more than a week
>barely even softened, definitely not coming off yet
Now I'm wondering just what the fuck this guy use as paint
Anything else I could try? It's a plastic bit so I can't go FULL POWER

I hear good things about super clean.

Is ceramite white supposed to be thicker than playdough or did I get a bad pot? It leaves tons of fucking streaks and I need to drown it to get it to thin.

It’s not just you. It’s the thickest GW paint I’ve encountered

CW is utterly horrid and I have the same streaking problem (zandri dust too)

super clean works awesome on metal, and decent on plastic. plastic takes a lot more scrubbing, but with some time you can get it all off.

Are there any white bases that aren't awful?

If not what's a better color for a farseer's helmet?

white basecoat, 3 thin coats of vallejo heavy goldbrown and yriel yellow highlights

I use vallejo model colour white, goes on way smoother than both ceramite and white scar, but you need more layers

Palid wytch flesh is usually my go to for white

Gonna make some corrupted chadmarines, testing out colours

Fabius has been busy

Thanks senpai

I did give the white a heavy wash, and tried to Duncan a new white layer over the washed layer, but it failed because the muddy paint was hard to paint precisely. Could I thin out a nuln oil wash and apply it over the white and just leave it at that? I want nice recesses, but i find that the straight nuln oil wash darkens the surface it is applied to.

Hmmm, I have a bunch more, so I am going to try that scheme and report back with results.

Hmm, I hadn't considered that. I just assumed anything that looked like solid metal had to be metal-coloured. I've got about 13 of these guys so I'm going to try one of them using the scheme you suggested.

Raven Guard Intercessor, went to local GW and they helped me go through each painting phase on how to do it. Highly recommend doing since they teach you tricks when doing precise details and how to thin paint accordingly. (1st model painted from ‘No know Fear’ set)

Damn phone :/

Use a wet palette. that will help. Also which paints are you using?

Thoughts on my kabalite armour paint scheme ?

Spent the last 7hrs "finishing" this thing (I still have to do the base.) It's too big for my light box so sorry for the poor pics. I feel like I could add more to this like some writing on the wings and so on, but at this point I really want to move on and paint something else.

a little more shading in the recesses would do wonders

All hail Lorgash o/

I like it. Is that two different blues in the edge highlight? I can't quite see.

pig-iron-productions.com/kolony-ferals-c-3.html

It's the Kolony Feral Unhooded Heads

This is my first try airbrushing armor. Basecoat castellan green, at a 45° Angle death guard green and from the top a mix of white and the former. Had to wash it since it began looking too white for my taste with camoshade.

First time painting lizardmen, what do you guys think about it?

I made the temple guard with bits from the cold one riders kit, and used aquarium plants for the base

My in my experience my best results came from basecoat then wash then airbrush zenithal highlights, then brush on further highlights then weather.