>decide to clip all pieces of my excess sprue and organize them by faction >going through very few chaos sprues I have >get idea I AM SWOLEDAR DESTROYER OF WORLDS FEAST YOUR EYES ON PEAK PERFORMANCE
What is the best way to get dried glue off your fingertips? >tfw glued together so many models last night the glue fumes started to burn my nostrils and make me lightheaded
Super glue can be washed off with acetone. Or just use hot water and soap and scrub.
Sebastian James
I love it.
Hudson Mitchell
It was plastic glue and I've done several hot water + soap scrubbings already.
Hudson Richardson
Patience and time. Just scrape it off with your fingers.
Dude, acetone is corrosive.
Wyatt Price
FINALLY finished painting the metal on my dwarves. I might go over it with a wash and highlights but for now, I'm just going to take a break and work on another part of it. Still need to do a little golden spot on the helmets of a lot of them, but should be easy to do at the end.
Done the boss chap and some of the command stand and the trim on a few rank and file today on top of finishing the metal.
And by 'done' I mean done the blue. I still need to do leathers, etc. Still, turning out nicely. Might give the back a wash but we'll see when they're all done.
How do I get into blanchitsu styled miniatures ? I was thinking about doing zenithal priming, basecoat on some parts and multiple washes. Maybe there is a better alternative, lemme know.
Alternatively, any idea about creepyfying/kitbash flavoring skitarii rangers ?
>acetone this >Dude, acetone is corrosive. It's an irritant. It also softens superglue. The only other alternative you have is brute force which more than likely will mean you will lose at least the top layer of your skin somewhere.
Acetone won't hurt you, as long you don't take a bath in it or gurgle the stuff. It's the main ingredient of nail polish remover.
Aiden Price
>How do I get into blanchitsu styled miniatures ? Blanche likes his inks. As in actual inks. GW doesn't sell them anymore and consequently you won't find them in their tutorials anymore.
High contrast paintjobs, lots of black and white and red, copious amounts of freehand patterns like checkers, a pallette that avoid cartoony bright colors and stays in earthier tones in addition to some grotesque conversions. A good helping of SM gear isn't a bad idea either.
>Alternatively, any idea about creepyfying/kitbash flavoring skitarii rangers ? Look at his concept art and AdMech sketches. You'll find some pretty interesting stuff, although some of it may not be super practical as conversion for a gaming miniature.
Gavin Robinson
Last night I had a dream where I was painting a baneblade without thinning my paint.
Not that user, but do you know of some good ink brands? I'm having trouble finding some that aren't just washes.
Caleb Ortiz
Are you going to add some ork legs dangling out the bottom of that turret? It doesn't look like there's enough space for the gunners whole lower body to be inside the cupola.
Camden Evans
Yeah. Just use literal inks. Calligraphy inks. Windsor and Newton for example. I can't be 100% sure, but I believe that is what it was anyway. Back then GW had Coat d'Arms make paint for them and the ink was just repackaged too.
W&N is pretty expensive though, any kind of regular acrylic ink works.
John Barnes
Thanks. Any thing you'd do or I should add/work on?
Gonna post my question again since last thread died.
On a painting related note, regarding these boys I wanted your guys opinions on my colour selection for them. I'm going to start today, painting them as Imperial Fists and these are the colours I've currently got available. I'm asking because I'll be heading to my shop today to grab some white spray primer to start them off with.
Base >Averland Sunset, Mephiston Red, Abaddon Black, Leadbelcher, Balthasar Gold Highlights >Flash Gitz Yellow, Skavenblight Dinge, Fenrisian Grey, Gore Red Shades >Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Casandora Yellow
So at the moment, I'd like to pick up a nice gold and silver metallic highlight for Leadbelcher and Balthasar Gold but I'm wondering if I should grab anything else that will be of use?
I'm priming white and using highlights like Flash Gitz because I want a really rich, bright figure, are there any other things I should remember? And are there any things on my list that won't really work together? Will Casandora Yellow just end up looking garbage? Should I use Agrax instead?
>but I'm wondering if I should grab anything else that will be of use? Depends. Which company are you gonna paint (different color shoulder rims) and what color are you gonna use for the lenses? I think green or blue lenses might be nice. You probably should also pick something up to at least do parchment or purity seals with. You'll probably also want a white if you don't already have one. The chapter symbol is sometimes backed white in the circle.
>Will Casandora Yellow just end up looking garbage? Should I use Agrax instead? Cassandora will give you a more orange/red tint, whereas Agrax is brown. You could use either, but it depends on what you are going for. If you want a really rich bright figure as you say I'd say use cassandora. Shading with brown will give you more of a gritty weathered effect.
Chase Moore
Right of course, I was talking about it non-stop last thread but that 404'd.
I'm going to be painting Imperial Fists. That's why I'm unsure about Casandora Yellow. I don't want the model to end up too reddish/orangey.
I'm looking for a more neutral yellow, not super warm or super cool, so I'm thinking Casandora might not be the best now. For the eyes I'm thinking red, however blue could also contrast really well with the yellow while complimenting it. I already have a few nice bone colours for parchments and some straight blacks and whites for insignias and stuff, so that's all good.
Oliver Wilson
Where do you guys buy cheap and good heads and other bits for 28mm guys?
the colour choices are a bit odd and I don't think it goes very well together
Dominic Smith
I love the meme where photos of my minis look 10 times worse than they do with the naked eye
Aaron Wilson
you REALLY need to be more specific. There are literally hundreds of companies that do aftermarket parts for not just GW games, but also historical miniatures.
Also not sure what you are after if you are looking for cheap stuff specifically. This is a niche hobby to begin with, if you buy from 'boutique' shops they are not gonna be super cheap usually.
Wyatt Gray
Sci-fy stuff, like for infinity or GW. Some female heads for imperial guard would be nice. Maybe some stuff to add to them to make them look more unique too.
Victorian minatures is a good start. None of what you are after is going to be cheap though
Christopher Myers
Hey buys, does anyone have a good suggestion on separating 40K miniatures pieces that have been glued together? They look like they've been glued together with plastic glue (the usual Citadel kind that slightly melts each part and seals it together.) and I'm wondering if there's any good ways to pull parts apart without damaging them.
So it just took me three days to finish my tiddy figure.
I'll post pics soon, the last layer is still drying.
When I was buying these figures, I was worried I was wasting money, but at $25 bucks a pop for these KD pinups, which I spend at least 10 hours painting, I can justify more.
I really really need to buy a new airbrush handle though. I started with a cheapo one, bought the whole kit for ~100 bucks to get my feet wet with it. This thing is already cutting out and sputtering and losing flow at random, and the air pump doesn't have a tank which is obnoxious beyond anything I imagined.
Will I damage anything if I put some simple green through it to try and break up the paint before brushing?
Hudson Nguyen
spread more glue all over hand leave to dry basecoat Nurgle that bad boy, don't forget your highlighting
Joshua Butler
You're fucked if it's the kind that melts for a better join.
Isaiah Scott
Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I'm not certain what sort of glues the previous owner of these minis used but I've found evidence that he may have either used both kinds, or he didn't glue them super well. When I was stripping the paint off them yesterday one of the Marine's heads fell off, and another's bolter fell off too. The head looks like it was plastic glued, however the bolter looks like it was either superglued, or it was poorly plastic glued.
I'm mainly just wanting to remove some of the bolters so I can pain the chest pieces easily, however with the big collection of Tau I also have I'm wanting to swap out some of the arms with different poses.
The guy I bought it from modeled them when he was like, 15, so of course 15 year old him thought "If it ain't in a shooting pose, it ain't worth having".
Anthony Ortiz
If I were you I'd freeze the models just in case some of it is superglued, otherwise you'll need to start cutting things up
Thomas Ward
Yeah I've just been looking around on other forums and I've chucked a few in the freezer in a ziploc bag as a test. We'll see how we go, worst case scenario I have some cold miniatures.
If it doesn't work I'll just have to get good at cutting with my exact-o knife.
Camden Campbell
starting to get into this painting business, never seriously painted before. what's the first guide/video(s) I need to check out to get me started on the road to novicehood. You guys have a lot of materials available here, I need a point in the right direction please!
Justin Barnes
What kind of models? The GW duncan videos are very solid for beginners either way but the paints have different names across different brands
Jordan Anderson
mainly rpg type minis for right now, there's no 40k scene here so I'm hesitant on spending my money on them (I live in Japan). The minis I have lined up right now are just pewter Dog Boys from Palladium Books.
Joshua Morales
Sometimes, and only sometimes Castrol Super Clean will de-bond plastic glue (in addition to stripping most kinds of paint) without damaging plastic.
Run a half pint of isopropyl alcohol through it, followed by hot distilled water, repeat.
Less likely to gunk it up.
Also post tiddy.
Ayden Baker
infinity and GW have very different styles though.
Check out Statuesque miniatures. They do some very nice female heads in three different scales that work for truescale aka 25mm, heroics like the GW stuff aka 28mm and Infinity as well, which you could arguably call 32mm I think.
They have some example pictures on the page as well.
>mainly rpg type minis for right now >there's no 40k scene here >The minis I have lined up right now are just pewter Dog Boys from Palladium Books.
Coalition squadboyz? You could use the techniques explained here even if their armour doesn't make them into 8-foot-tall, 400-pound champions of The Emperor's Will.
>I live in Japan
Well, now isn't *that* exciting! No, really! I'm not being facetious here.
Basically any question you have about painting is answered multiple times, in video format, by Games Workshop, with clear step-by-step instructions intended to be suitable for literal children.
If you simply search for the information you want you'll find a video tutorial on how to do it, and if you follow the steps presented diligently you will get a passable quality result the very first time.
Easton Price
Just search for some basic tutorials on YT.
Things to absolutely remember to get you started on the right path >ALWAYS thin your paints. water works perfectly fine and I've always used it, however medium works the same but a little better. Once you're comfortable with thinning your paints you can eventually look into different types of medium for different needs (i.e flow medium, wetness medium, etc.) >ALWAYS use thin coats. This is more applicable with light colours like bright yellows, reds, blues, whites, etc., but is a rule you should follow of all paints really. two or three thin coats of paint will ALWAYS look better than one thick coat. It makes the paint more even and smooth and you'll get a much better spread of pigment overall. >prime your models with an appropriate colour. I generally use grey since it's a very neutral colour, but depending on what you're painting it's usually best to pick a black or white base coat to really bring out the colours and make them more vibrant. Obviously black for dark colours and white for bright colours. Once you're much more comfortable with your skills you can try advanced techniques like black priming, and then doing a top down spray of white spray primer that only catches on the topsides of the model. I've seen people use this method to make their shadows deeper and their colours stronger on top, leading to a really rich contrast. >pick up some really tiny detail brushes. These are essential and you can really do a whole ton with them, so they're always worth having. >pick up the Citadel paint app. It seems silly to grab an app for painting, but this this is the fucking tits. wishlists of paints, inventory of paints, and great painting tutorials for pretty much every scheme under the sun. Also, once you pick a scheme you can tick off the paints you have for that scheme which is great. >speaking of methods, search for tutorials on youtube for drybrushing and washing. These are essential skills.
Landon Young
plastic glue creates a chemical weld. You can try to rip them apart but that will most likely fuck both parts up. Use a knife.
Parker Wright
Test mini for my local stores LoTR campaign. What do you guys think? Basing ideas?
>Basing ideas? My first brainfarty idea was kind of a ruins of osgiliath kind of thing. White stone overgrown with wildflowers or something. Sounds super complicated, I know. But I've been thinking about casting some tiles in plaster and putting them on the bases for another project of mine recently. Mite b cool.
Although in general i feel like a fall based theme could be nice. that would harmonize with the golden parts on the model and the blue would make them really pop.
Can someone tell me how the FUCK to get astrogranite debris to work? It's just a bunch of unstuck grain on my base
Xavier Sullivan
You're all beautiful people, tyvm.
Coalition for life. I'm a huge palladium fan in the market for minis i can use in my megaverse games.
Japan is beautiful, the people are wonderful, you should visit if you have the chance. I plan on moving here full time here when I actually settle down.
Hunter White
Thanks anons!
Levi Reed
While wet or after drying?
Anthony Cox
Thanks man. A fall theme does sound nice, although I dont know how Id do the leaves, and I havent done anything with grass before.
David Diaz
After drying it's just clumps of grain on the base
Wyatt Ortiz
Here's an image, please ignore the shitty quality of the paintjob and image
Birch tree seeds are a great way to do it. If you got a birch tree nearby you can just pick up the seed pods and dry them to get the leaves.
There are also companies that sell them, in natural colors or with a different tint.
And you can also get holepunches with leaf shapes. Greenstuff Industries sell a bunch of those. You can use them to cut your own scale leaves out of actual dried leaves or colored paper.
For the grass you can just buy tufts or flock. Tufts are super easy to use, you just have to glue them onto the base.
Oh, I think Ive seen those before, not in my area though. They look good, but would it be better to paint over them?
Jayden Taylor
This is definitely probably not the place to ask but how can I figure out how long before an air compressor will have to fire back up?
I've got a one gallon compressor with a max psi of 57 which kicks back in after like 20 seconds of airbrushing. I'm looking at a 5.5 gallon with a max psi of 120 and I'm wondering how much longer it would run before clicking back on.
I run my compressor around 25 psi usually.
Benjamin Anderson
I like the natural colors. Depending on when you pick them up you'll find some that are faintly green still, yellow or brown. If you want some that are a different color you can put them into a container with some paint and a bit of water and shake thoroughly.
William Hill
i'd love to but i have no spares to work with. i had a bunch of shit tanks given to me
you can't make it out but he's standing on a platform in the turret
Might be dried out in the container. Biggest problem with the basing stuff that GW sells is that it is only good for a while after you first open it
Thomas Reyes
While there's no doubt that it's dried since I first got it last year, it didn't work back when I first opened it either.
Dominic Stewart
Posted this in the last thread but didn't get anything.
I've got an idea I'm working on for a Malifaux gaming table and I'm hoping to get more suggestions for it. I know a guy who has a Glowforge (google it, it's fucking cool) and I'm gonna pay him to score 9 12"x12" sheets of cork (cuz Malifaux is played in 3'x3' tables) with a giant puzzle pattern. I'm going to paint the Neverborn logo (pic related) on it so it looks like a giant concrete puzzle of the logo. That's as far as I've gotten though. I'm thinking creepy trees and victorian buildings, anybody wanna throw in?
How do you guys make your magic washes? I've seen some different recipes and I'm curious. Some of these products are hard for me to get as they're american and I live in europe.
Christian Ross
The main ingredients are acrylic artists ink and acrylic floor sealer... I can't imagine art supplies are a rarity. Isn't 'Klir' the floor sealant they sell overseas?
Ayden Howard
Any Tyranid (or similar) painters here able to give me advice on what purples to get for pic related (Purple Worm for D&D) to get a vivid and strong but dark purple carapace? Purple is the one color I have nothing of and I'd prefer not buying more than 2 different purples.
Genestealer purple and Xerxes purple are a pretty dark but strong pair.
Adam Roberts
>That's as far as I've gotten though. I'm thinking creepy trees and victorian buildings, anybody wanna throw in? I don't know too much about Malifaux, but afaik the Neverborn are somewhat of a nightmare faction right?
So in theory you could put just about anything on your table.
But starting from the victorian building and trees, another obvious thing would be streetfurniture like carriages and the like. 4Grounds sells a lot of good stuff in that regard. Like a set of gallows for example. I've always been tempted to make a piece of scenery with the corpse piles from the GW corpse cart. A gallows with a pile of corpses would fit the vibe I'm getting. Some freaky fountains that are reminiscent of graveyard ornaments maybe, like a well with a crying angel or something along those lines. Perry miniatures also sell a church and graveyard set, that may be a nice piece as well.
If you can find a 0scale model train set or play set in the right size that would also work well with the victorian setting. You could optionally have the train derailed and just build a dramatic crash site or have a set of houses where it smashed through. Trainstation optional.
Maybe some kind of zoo or botanical garden? Imagine a big cage over a tree in a beautiful garden that's filled with songbirds.
If you are looking for something more crazy in the nightmare kind of way I'd have to give that some extra thought. But you could turn the trees into monsters like in the sequence in Disneys Snowwhite where she is tripping balls and running away after the huntsman tried to kill her. Or turn houses into something spooky. Turn doorways into gaping maws and windows into eyes or something.
Same as what the other guy said, Genestealer purple in particular is great.
My advice is to grab the Citadel paint app. You can paint by colour and it'll tell you exactly how to get a nice complimenting look with paints. It'll give you some good ideas.
Also, sweet Purple Worm. I want to paint one of these some day. I'd personally suggest leaning into the reddish end of the purple spectrum. Because it's not an insane amount of armour plates on the model you could try wet blending a dark purple into a lighter, more pinkish purple? Edge highlight the outsides of the plates with a pinkish-red and you'll have a fucking amazing looking worm IMO.
Bentley Gray
if you look closely at the miniatures you'll notice that the only sculpting done here are a few strips over the rims of the shoulderpads and the groin armor. Everything else is painted freehand. The pergament strapped over the pads is just painted on.
Emperor's Shadows were in WD a loooong time ago and popped up again in the how to paint SM book. Since then there have been a number of aftermarket products been made with these guys specifically in mind.
What I'm saying is the original models were relatively simple conversions. Bunch of marines and a chaplain with some plastic card armor and a bit of GS on the pads. That's easy to make yourself. You can also go all out and buy all the samurai bits you can find. And there are many.
I liked Karate Kid too btw.
Robert Price
Never new such an apo existed, gonna look that up, thanks.
Also thanks about the worm, DM printed it last week and I volunteered to paint it since none of the others have any idea how to the DMs sister tried painting a model with acrylic paint. Was also thinking about trying to blend into pink/red for the edges or at the very least edge highlight/drybrush with that. Going to take a while to paint and still need to clean all those spikes up to not look like absolute shit, but I'll post progress on the model as I go.
Zachary Fisher
>magic washes? Okay I need an explanation here. Are there special washes people refer to as magic? Cause if not >and I live in europe. This works to your advantage. The vast majority of paint brands that sell washes for miniature painting are European.
If you are talking about mixing your own washes then the same thing. Just acrylic medium + paint or ink. Acrylic paint is no harder to get in Europe than the US. You just go to the next art supply store and ask for a medium.
You can check out a few youtube videos as well, there are a few professional painters who share their recipes and process for mixing in great detail.
If you want to slum it the old school way you can also just use a mix of regular paint and water. If you want to make it flow better add detergent, if you want to thicken it up add pva.
Easton Wood
Isn't Badab Black still the most magical easy-to-get of magic washes?
Carson Nelson
Fuck man that sounds awesome. GLHF and make sure to post updates here, I love seeing this like this.
Austin Carter
Thanks, I'll try my best! Might end up having to paint quite a bit more D&D stuff in the near future, though. Dude's going crazy printing props and minis and just posted this today in our WhatsApp group. None of those models existed in our last session on Thursday. I'm never going to finish my damn AdMech models at this rate.
