I especially like the paint job on the second from the right. But the breasts look a little too large and the lump on the first one looks cancerous.
Andrew Rivera
Repostin this here since there wasn't a wip thread last time I asked.
Have any of you guys tried highlighting metalics with gloss medium? I figure it would give it a good "natural" highlight but I want some advice before I try it.
I'm just starting out and had a question regarding paint selection. Picking base colors is easy enough, but without doing one of the pre-determined paint schemes how do you figure out what colors to use for highlights and shades? I'm going to be doing some desert themed guardsmen if that helps.
Wyatt Watson
No, I usually highlight gold with silver and silver with... even brighter silver. I've never had any problems and have no desire to fix what isn't broke. However if you really are just lining the edges with gloss varnish I doubt it'll hurt.
Owen Martin
Alright, what's the deal with gesso? Is it legitimately reliable or is it something that works better in theory than in practice? What are the downsides, does it peel, or chip easily or fill in too much minor detail?
Spraying is not an option for me, because I live in Florida where it's typically 80-95% humidity every day. I need something I can slap on with a brush (not an airbrush) and gesso seems like a great and cheap option.
Logan Powell
I use black gesso, so I may be able to answer some of your questions.
>legitimately reliable I've never really had any real problems with it.
>does it peel, or chip easily or fill in too much minor detail It seems to hold up and chip less than my Vallejo grey primer. If you are careful and don't put on too much at once (since it contracts as it dries you can put on a bit more at once than you would think is safe) it can start to swallow the detail. But once you get used to it you shouldn't have any problems; I actually prefer it to Vallejo.
Logan Diaz
He looks fuckin rad dude. What are you going to do with his fingers? I can imagine them being blended into either a deep red, or into black.
Kevin Hernandez
Slowly mix in ivory or yellow to highlight and black or brown to shade.
If you're painting an army just compare the paints with your eyes, man.
Base color red? Highlight with a brighter red or an orange. Shade it with a darker red or wash it.
It's all trial and error. If you're still a bit confused and you're using GW paints then look at the Citadel Painting app.
Benjamin Collins
You mean real gesso or the fake stuff called gesso that is not gesso at all?
If it's the real stuff, don't know how you'd get it on a model. Complete waste of time for painting with acylics anyway.
If you mean fake gesso...yeah, it works. Just bear in mind it shrinks as it dries so you'll be doing touch ups in places where it's shrunk so much it leaves holes.
Cameron Davis
You can absolutely spray prime in florida.
Jason Price
Finally one that isn't using a fly head...
Jayden Richardson
Look up Stynylrez on Amazon. It's a brush on primer and I swear by the stuff.
Chase Harris
Thanks for the feedback. I've been watching Warhammer TV and some other videos and there were a few where the color selection didn't seem like the obvious choice to me. I was thinking of using Vallejo paints since I've seen people mention them quite a bit as cheaper, but still comparable along with a chart to match colors. Any tips for painting camo? I'd like to do a desert tiger stripe pattern on the fatigues. Maybe not the best thing for a beginner, but I think that would be a cool pattern and the only way to git gud at it is practice.
Eli Hughes
Is Liquitex real or fake then? I thought that was only for airbrushes
Kayden Reyes
I'm not really familiar with painting camo (I don't think I've ever painted camo, desu), but Duncan has a video on it: youtu.be/hgZBQdKse28
Nope. I've only ever used it as a brush on primer. Here's a test model I did years ago. I dabbed (stabbing it on, really) it on with a shitty brush, it was undiluted, and the coverage only looks spotty cause I did it with a single drop of Stynylrez. Absolutely ZERO detail lost and it's durable (couldn't and still can't scrape any of it off with my finger nail).
I should also mention, I've never tried it on metal. Only plastic, resin, restic, and PVC.
Kevin Harris
Oh hell yeah, thanks.
Noah Brooks
If you're not buying it from an art supply store chances are it's the fake stuff. Gesso is used to prepare wood and canvas for oil painting. They call the new stuff stuff acrylic gesso but it's not gesso because gesso is made from animal glue and gypsum and acrylic gesso is latex and calcium carbonate. It doesn't work well as well but no one was going to buy latex-based-calcium-carbonate-ground-preparation so they just copied the name.
Hudson Watson
One Angel of Absolution finished (aside from chapter/company markings, which I'm waiting with doing until later). Looking for advice on specific things I can improve.
Go back and touch up that front corner of his right pouldron as you've got a bit of black on it. I'd suggest more highlights on the red of the gun and the purity seal. Mostly it's solid though, just need practice to get a bit neater.
Nicholas Bennett
Liquitex comes from an art supply store, they don't sell it at places like GW or your LGS. In fact I don't think those places carry any sort of gesso product at all. Liquitex is a brand that was recommended by the guy from the 2005 article on dakkadakka, so it's not exactly new either. Liquitex is acrylic based, but I don't think that's a bad thing considering the paint and most primers we put on our miniatures are acrylic based too. The shit you're talking about is intended for canvas and it probably won't work on miniatures, it could of course, but I don't think it's going to hold as reliably.
Does black work better than the white for some reason? I've read about some issues with white, but I've seen unanimous praise for black. Not a big fan of priming in black in general though.
Adam Allen
finished that scratchbuild eversor i posted yesterday. nothing too flash, just something to use for kitchen table games.
the red looks a little thin in places, but i like it so far!
Hunter Howard
Lookin' good man, definitely tabletop quality, if a little better.
I'd have a look at some richer highlights for the gun. I'm using Wild Rider Red for edge highlights over Mephiston Red. I should maybe be using an in-between red, but it's turned out nicely so far. With a little bit of medium it give Mephiston a really nice worn look.
James Mitchell
It's like Jerry Seinfeld doing the 'Eyes of Hate'.
Samuel Hughes
Not 100% done with this guy as I want to finish the tusks and a few other bits I missed, but I could do with some colour advice.
This little dude is the test plate for my small Deathskulls Dred Mob; colour scheme look okay to you guys? I wasn't sure if it needed a few extra splashes of white or another colour to break up the black, silver and blue.
>I wasn't sure if it needed a few extra splashes of white or another colour to break up the black, silver and blue. I'd maybe add a few checker patterns here and there if you want to do that.
Looks pretty solid otherwise though.
Tyler Young
You should add something to create hotspots on model. Like birght red/green eyes, dripping blood on claws, maybe black/white checkers.
Also, in my opinion - as fellow deathskull painter - blue is too dark. It looks almost like black highlighted to blue, and I thought it's a goff kan.
Brody Morgan
Looks pretty cool overall my dude.
Agree with both of these guys myself, though personally I think some yellow would look good. Yellow complements white and blue quite well.
I'd suggest painting the bottom of the claw in yellow and black safety stripes, that would look cool I reckon.
Landon Martin
Thanks lads, good advice. I think checks/hazard lines is a good idea so I'll test that out next. Still got a bunch of these guys to do anyway.
>It looks almost like black highlighted to blue, and I thought it's a goff kan.
Hah, it actually was originally going to be a Goff but I had a last minute change of heart. It was originally a brighter blue but I gave it a wash which darkened it more than I expected. I have to pick up more paint tomorrow anyway and will probably get a brighter blue then.
Nolan Cruz
Great thing about Orks is that, well because they're Orks you can make your designs a bit sloppy on purpose and it looks fine.
James Jackson
Thats a good thing, because I'm pretty average at painting and take a lot of short cuts.
Haven't painted Orks in a good 10 years at least though, so its fun to go back to them.
Hudson Mitchell
>a few extra splashes of white or another colour if you do any checks or dags on the next one, I suggest using yellow rather than white. It'll fit in with the lenses and glyphs you've already done.
Parker Campbell
Which kind of bits they used for the body? The Tzeech acolyte?
Finished some terrain to block line of sight, it's a bit blocky but I don't know how to get the height without slopes that models will fall off. Should I go for something similar with the other pieces, or keep them as either a hill or a wall? And of course, how does it look? Had trouble with the foam absorbing paint when I left it to dry so took a fair few layers.
Do the rest of the terrain as buildings or outcrops like this and just have a whole set of this type of landscape. With that size it'll be great for creating canyons sets and stuff.
Ayden Johnson
neat idea, but did you used a lego-brick for the light over the shoulder
> I wasn't sure if it needed a few extra splashes of white or another colour to break up the black, silver and blue. looks perfect to me only problem would be the moldline on the right leg
I think so, yes could also be bloodreavers
Josiah Thompson
The one on the left is alright, the rest are too DYEL. I suggest pic related and his Khorne bros.
looking sick. What foam did you use? You can spread some spackle/plaster on there and prime it then paint it. I'd go for more terrain like that and make stuff like rock obelisks
Aiden Thompson
I'll do some more like this then, cheers. Might keep at surfaces low to stop "I'm on terrain so I get cover" but yeah should make nice canyons. Foam is celotex, closest I could find to blue foam in the UK. £6 for a good metre squared so so. Does plaster application help for texture, or for priming it? I'll give it a shot either way. Might try acetone to texture it as well
Jose Adams
Gonna continue work on these today after I get home from work. All that’s left to do is minor details like bones/hair and the actual armor highlights.
Anyway, I don't want to be a partypooper, but aren't the dusty legionnaires the original ones that Ahriman cursed? Or is there a way to make new ones? The primaris armor kind of sticks out, so I'm wondering.
Nolan Murphy
aw yeah insulation foams a classic. plaster helps with both priming and texture cause it covers the foam and holes in the foam from cutting as well as providing a rough texture for the paint to adhere to
Wyatt Foster
The hidden ones were the Thousand Sons' masters of stealth and espionage. Basically their version of the Alpha Legion, except with more sorcery.
And from memory they do create new ones, can't remember the process though. I think they download the souls of dead Rubrics into new armour, actually.
Carson White
>Foam is celotex Did you not have an issue with a weird fabric substrate inside the foam? I have a block of theirs banging around that wouldn't cut nicely
Levi Walker
How do you recommend painting tanks? I usually see them airbrushed and i really don't like the way they look
Jose Cruz
I brush paint, wash recesses with agrax, drybrush highlights, then weather with chipping and dirty it up a bit.
Some argue that this technique does not work on 40k scale tanks, I have yet to try.
Finished the first warrior. The warriors are very easy to paint but the problem is their design is so simplistic so it takes a lot of work to make them somehow interesting.
From what I saw in store, there was a layered version a bit like you said and solid yellow block form. I went for the latter, so no fabric stuff
Austin Anderson
guys, im too lazy to paint over 60 minis (including drones and tanks) of death guard, so i want to get a spray to base coat em, should i get citadel or army painter? and i want to try a zandri dust esque death guard, but a The fang color scheme is itching me, any suggestions?
citadel literally has a death guard green spray can doesn't it
Zachary Green
Well the good news is you're doing a great job of making it work. Have at it, user.
Noah Hughes
yup, but i wanted a different color scheme, all the death guard players here use the same and i want to try something new
Juan White
Started painting a tantalus I got for my Deldar then I was stuck for a scheme until I had a thought, can you gild a tantalus? So I am giving it a go, it’s going to be a shiny bling engine of pain and unspeakable horror... when it’s done
This is seriously work in progress as I need to smooth, polish and varnishes not to mention finish. Anyone else tried to work with gold leaf or similar?
Did the tiniest bit more on this bust but slightly demotivated this week, so starting another project. I've have a bunch of Eldar HQ units sat around for ages so going to paint them up as different craftworlds, starting with a Biel Tan Autarch. Trying to build up a nice white currently.
Paint job looks good, I'm a bit confused by the grey metal poking through under the bronze though (on his feet for example).
I would have started with a little more surface prep (sanding out the tiny bumps you frequently get on resin) and using a self-levelling primer for one. but with enough love and polish I imagine it'll look really cool at least.
Benjamin Hall
Jesus please stop.
Tyler Howard
Hoses and cables are a good place to sneak in some extra colors for variety. Making a dangly hose red or orange doesn't look out of place for orks.
Cooper Allen
Thanks. Was probably going to lighten the fingers up with his flesh tone and shade them with purples. But I could try playing with reds. I don't really get the fly heads myself.
Juan Adams
I have watched this bust for sometime now, it is looking great so far
Robert Sanders
What is the best way to do eyes on a mini without it looking like it's been kicked in the nuts
Adrian Perez
>Painting First Mini >Know that I should check for moldlines >Look really carefully >Don't see any >Start painting >They're fucking everywhere
Holy shit how do I git gud at spotting them before I have to ruin my paintjob to remove them?
generally they follow a line connected from the sprue nub.
Nathaniel Watson
This was a reaper mini, no sprue
Daniel Hill
use a flashlight or something and light the model from different angles. Shadows will reveal the moldlines very well.
Nolan Brooks
i'm building a land raider redeemer, it needs extra armor on the sides but i'm not sure yet if i'm going to do something like fw's or just slap on some thick plating with rivets like on my predator
less is more, massive sclera never look good and always gives that massive surprised look.
Andrew Murphy
>This was a reaper mini Oof, too bad buddy. Going to be tough to properly remove them even after finding them. I got so frustrated cleaning up pic related (Reaper fountain from my ss package) that I gave it a heavy wash just to pick out the lines and then carved them off, gently stripped/scrubbed off the wash and got to priming.
Anyone have a good airbrush recipe for the yellow on imperial fists?
Elijah Peterson
>can never decide on a color-scheme for my forces, nor a good theme for them either >it's gotten to the point that I don't want to buy new miniatures, convert them or paint them until I've figured out what I want to go for >almost a month and a half without progress
it shouldn't be this fucking hard to find something in Nurgle that appeals to me in terms of color-schemes, but I just fucking can't do it. I just don't want greens on my guys, but I'm so indoctrinated I can't think of or make any other sort of worn/pallid/rusted color anymore. Someone please help me, I feel as if I'm on crazy-pills!
Elijah Walker
How about oxidized copper? Green-ish blues with strong contrasting oranges, clearly worn and nurgle-y but not just straight greens.
Benjamin Flores
look at coral. convert up yourdudes so it looks like they've been underwater for ages.
Adam Collins
Kill tank progress. The orks in cupolas are just propped in there for effect, not glued yet.
Does the brand of paint you use (citadel, army painter, vallejo, PP3) actually matter?
I mean, I've heard people say [x color] or [y range] from one company or another is better/worse, but I've always operated on the (unbacked by data) assumption that it was basically all completely interchangeable.
I've more or less got to rebuild my paints collection from scratch do to reasons, so I'm thinking about it for basically the first time.
Blake Reyes
They're different colors. Different pigmentation. They're different.
Gavin Martin
>does it matter no Some paints from different ranges give different colours, it's just a matter of picking what you like best and freely mixing between them. I'm a big fan of P3 because it's got strong pigments and colours really well, a chunk of my collection is GW paint though along the odd vallejo paint thrown in.
Kevin Rogers
I've used some citadels and some reapers and some vallejos and I've felt like citadels in general cover marginally better. Their white was super chunky garbage though.
Blake Hill
short answer no, use whatever
long answer most of my normal colors are vallejo my specialty colors are P3 or citadel most of my metallics are citadel (I really need to buy some damn agitator balls) and I happen to like Citadel shades
>just started a space marine army. >love dorn, decide to go fists. >have to do 4-5 coats of any yellow as opposed to 2-3 coats for any other color ive ever done.
I've tried that, and I never got a satisfying look to it all. the "apostles of contagion" has such a look, and it is one I've been a little curious about, but also one I can never seemingly replicate.
I tried that too, and it never took well.
I feel like I would love to add the color yellow as a good spot-color, but I fear it might be too bright. Dampening it will most likely just make it look brown, more than yellow too. If only they had more robes on them, I really love the idea of yellow and super-dirty robes.
Zachary Gutierrez
looks awful, may just be the picture though.
Gavin Hall
It's not great in the picture, true, but once I've touched things up, added the other colours and get it in a lightbox should be better.
Or I can just go balls to the wall with more chrome and just see what happens. There ain't no breaks on the chrome train
