Got some work done on a post apocalyptic warband that I'm working on for fun, currently not with any particular game in mind. I'm going to be cleaning up some of them and adding some more details like goggles and/or respirators to some. I also have to get a lot more work done on the warboss who I'm going to try to make look like Imortan Joe.
Your conversions are eternal, shiny and chrome, but your photograph is ... mediocre. Any way you could throw more light on the front, or maybe get us a larger picture?
Maybe taking the picture in your fridge would help...
Have you ever painted something before? If not then go to the mega (might be in the 40k general's one if you can't find it here) and download the old ~2004 how to paint miniatures books by GW. Those provide a really good starting point for brand new painters.
If not I've found some pretty decent guys for repainting X-Wing ships after a quick google search. The community for the game is pretty big so there seem to be a lot of guides around.
I can't help you with first hand experience, but I'd say you have three ways to go about it. >strip the model, prime and repaint from scratch Or, after cleaning >paint over the factory paintjob as is >matt varnish first if the paint doesn't stick to the factory paintjob. Think of it as a see through primer
Dominic Campbell
I think the bald primaris Reiver heads would make a good base.
Bentley Collins
Found a nearby game store that actively plays, still deciding on a color scheme to do these guys. For painting things in pieces, what are some materials that help with that? I've seen people stick them to corks with wire and some sort of putty to hold heads and bits in place. I just don't know the materials used.
I've thought about that but I don't actually like the way they modeled the teeth on them, it's kind of cartoony looking. I might try an experimental idea I had where I'll make a push cast of the skull shoulder pad from the Goliath set and recast the teeth with some greenstuff and model the rest around it with more greenstuff. I'll test that out and if that fails I might have another look at the reiver heads.
Easton Carter
>and some sort of putty to hold heads and bits in place. I just don't know the materials used. blutac if you are a britbong or something similar by UHU if you are on mainland europe. I think burgers also have blutac.
Landon Diaz
thanks for the info.
Cameron Adams
>plastic miniatures >superglue stop what you are doing immediately, watch this video youtube.com/watch?v=dSx8ZBQlM_s buy appropriate glue and then start assembling models
Ryan Cooper
Not him, but I prefer superglue in the odd event I fuck up with bit placement and need to snap them off later. I've had a couple models that looked good when bluetacked, but didn't line up properly once I put the glue on.
Gavin Martinez
>Have you ever painted something before? I haven't, but I'll go and find that book to read through.
I've seen a few videos that explained things well, I'm just trying to get as much info as I can't before I start.
Thanks for the help, though!
Logan Kelly
I use superglue on all my models, don't listen to this guy.
Eli Cooper
Reposting from last thread because I'm a vain cunt
Finnaly got some time to finish the bases for these brutes and their shoulder throphies
There's a difference between doing something on purpose for a specific reason, and doing something by accident because you don't know what you're doing.
That difference being that the latter usually results in poorly assembled models with patches of CA glue all over them.
Evan Smith
you seem awfully sure about your opinions
Jaxon Nelson
And plastic glue is messy, leaves strands everywhere and permanently fuses pieces together. And why assume that guy doesn't know what he's doing?
>And plastic glue is messy, leaves strands everywhere and permanently fuses pieces together. Only one of these things is actually true, and that's parts being fused together.
There's nothing about plastic glue that is more inherently messy than superglue, they're both liquids of approximately the same consistency that are applied from the same kinds of tubes, and the only time plastic glue ever "leaves strands everywhere" is if you do something retarded with it, like apply huge amounts of it to something, leave parts together for some time, then pull them apart, if you did the same thing with superglue glue you're left with clumps of CA on one or both surfaces.
The only reasons to use superglue on plastic miniatures rather than plastic glue is if you don't actually want strong bonds or if you wear contact lenses when modeling. Both of those are valid reasons, those two you posted are not.
Andrew Lee
>wear contact lenses when modeling
Is this actually something to worry about? I'm kinda spooked now, about getting contacts again.
Christian Flores
I'd say superglue is messier in general than plastic cement. I buy a lot of second hand models and the quantity of issues I encounter because someone had put a shitload of superglue on something and it has dribbled down the model or overflowed the area it was applied to outnumber problems with plastic glue like melted detail. In either case the problems come from applying far too much glue and bad assembly in general.
My personal most dire experience was a carnifex slathered in so much superglue the arm joints were rock hard to the point where it would have been easier to get them off they had been glued with plastic glue. I had to use actual de-bonder on that guy.
But that's all in the context of doing a shitty job. If you're building models competently with either kind of glue it should be fine. Though using superglue for final assembly plastic wargaming minis seems pretty dumb unless you expect to have to change limbs or something or youre pinning since it's asking for that shit to break in transport.
Ethan Powell
shit isn't common but fumes melting contacts has been known to happen. honestly just don't put your face directly above and 3 inches away from your models while using glue like a sane human being
or just wear your glasses
David Harris
don't listen to this guy! use superglue, ALWAYS. there's nothing worse than plastic glued models. no way to change something later on and a nightmare for everyone who's going to buy these models used at some point to strip and modify. use plastic glue only on little broken parts.
This is just bad advance. You should use plastic glue on anything you want to be permanent, for example tank hulls and the majority of any infantry figure. Assembling those things using superglue will just result in them being more fragile than they need to be for no benefit.
Wyatt Morales
I don’t have a drill. And am also in a unique situation where things can’t easily be shipped to me.
Julian Wood
Another work in progress of mine. Never painted regular Space Marines before, much less Primaris.
Because a huge number of models have nothing to "change out", and in the case of models that do have things I want to change out later I achieve interchangeability with magnets. I also use models for wargaming, which means they're subject to very frequent transportation and handling. That being the case durability is important.
There is no benefit whatsoever to using superglue in this case. Parts which I may want to change are interchangeable and using superglue would just result in weaker bonds and subsequently more frequent repairs. Using plastic glue results in less repairs with no loss of interchangeability.
It's like I said, if you want permanent bonds use plastic glue. I use plastic glue because I want permanent bonds.
Brandon Campbell
Why would you want to "change out" the treads on a tank or the bond between parts of it's hull or an infantry model's legs to torso join?
Stop being retarded, plan your models properly, use magnets or pins if you really want something to be removable.
Sebastian Sanchez
>And plastic glue is messy, leaves strands everywhere Not if you use good plastic glue and aren't a complete tool.
Ryder Lewis
>no benefit. Apparently there is one, see below.
>a nightmare for everyone who's going to buy these models used at some point to strip and modify. Oh, we should make our models worse so that poorfags have an easier time taking them apart later.
I'll be sure to keep that in mind.
Bentley Smith
not super concerned about the feelings of some hypothetical super entitled person to be perfectly honest, also not sure why I'd care what their feelings about glue are since they'd have already have paid for them by the time it even became apparent to them
Dylan Barnes
Careful, he might give you negative feedback on ebay. Which I'm sure you will be very upset about.
Brody King
The guy in the middle that's just oozing shit from his face is fucking disgusting. In a good way of course!
Well done user.
Bentley Campbell
I'm with this guy. Poly cement is no fun compared to super glue. Especially with today's all-plastic GW kits with weird large joints there's no need for a chemical bond between parts like that.
Jackson Stewart
Question for you guys. I'm working on a Death Guard army, and I'm really trying to make every model unique (turning out to be harder than I thought it would!). So I've been doing a lot of minor converting and kitbashing and it has been ok for the most part.
However, Chaos cultists are giving me some trouble, believe it or not. I really want to boost my horde of cultists, and I'm sure I'll order some of the forge world stuff to convert Cadians, but I'm hoping to have like 40 of these dudes with long range weapons eventually. I have the dudes from Dark Vengeance, they are awesome, but I want to do more and do my best to make each guy unique. I wondered if you guys had any ideas for conversions. I was originally thinking Necromunda might help, and I am sure I could use some bits from Necromunda models, but really, after a hard look, I don't think they are a great fit for the rest of my army.
So, looking for ideas on both basic models to convert from, and bits for chaos cultists. Any thoughts appreciated, thanks!
Cooper Hernandez
here -
These guys are cool as hell - what's the kit these dudes are from?
Easton Allen
I've got two minis built and primed and highlighted, ready to go. Anything I should know about trying to use only washes on it?
James Ward
Looks sick! I'm currently converting a bunch of miniatures to fit a Post Apoc theme as well. I've been using a bunch of Chaos and Ork bits and minis. lol
Michael Brooks
I dont paint very well but I wonder if I should highlight it red evil sunz.
really well painted. Does the models justice. nice work user
Hunter Hernandez
>you shouldn't glue together your zero option monopose miniatures permanently because ??? also superglue is more fun than polystyrene cement because ??? this is pretty much the dumbest thing I've seen this thread
Adrian Hill
lol i use superglue on my plastic miniatures most of the time, dries instantly, who wants to have to hold steady a miniatures pose while it dries?
Joseph Hall
you dont have a hardware store near you? a drill bit for gun barells is cheap as fuck mine was $3 only because the cheap ones were sold out
Mason Russell
People who don't want to glue the arms back on to the same guy every time they get home from the LGS and don't want to field a base with nothing but a pair of legs on in it in a game.
Aiden Morales
any highlights will make this model pop, at the moment its all flat colours. Just take your time, dont rush it and it will look awesome when its done
Wyatt Cooper
lol i use plastic cement on plastic miniatures and have never had to wait longer than 2 seconds for them to be dry enough to hold their own weight
Isaiah Young
What do you mean ? I think I'm gonna use evil scarlet sunz to highlight the pit line all around the ship. What do you think?
Luke Kelly
>highlight the pit line all around the ship. I don't think you understand the term highlight correctly. Highlighting is painting a lighter colour on the edges of a model to make the details pop and stand out more, especially at a distance.
That's not to say painting the pits a bright red will look bad, it's just not highlighting the model.
Carson Anderson
>make the details pop and stand out more, You dont understand highlighting. That is not what it's for. It makes the model look sharper and harder.
Caleb Wood
>tfw zero motivation to paint most of the time
Help me /wip/.
I just want to have a nice little blog, a few skirmish warbands and a display cabinet. One or two painted miniatures a week isn't too much to ask when some people can paint a full miniature in a day. I must get distracted.
Might be partially because I mostly paint old stuff and rubbery things like Reaper Bones, which can be a pain in the arse to prepare and paint "well". I've recently replaced most of my brushes and tools to give me the best chance too.
Just copy that, ellipses and all, if you have clickable links enabled it'll break the link.
Elijah Moore
Motivation is a false god, discipline is what gets you to do things. Just sit your ass down and paint, put on a music/podcast if you listen to things while painting and eventually you'll have a shit ton of models done. It works pretty well for me. Another thing I do is organise "painting nights" with my buddies where we hang out, paint models and drink whiskey together. It doesn't get as many models done but it builds a positive association to painting in your mind.
Joseph Peterson
oh I see, I thought the url was cut short, silly me
Henry Foster
>talking this much shit in a WIP thread yeah whatever fat neckbeard
Christopher Jones
I use a mixture of super glue and plastic wield I've never had any issue with super glue other then on my metal models.
Dominic Edwards
>(yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!) Sometimes it helps to read, user
James Fisher
Hi all wip of artillery/heavy weapons this is imperial guard hw teams morter and missile the bases ive put holes in and character feet ive pegged for wound removal
Bloodreavers, various Ork bits, various Orlock bits, various Neophyte Hybrid bits, various Goliath bits, and some ammo pouches grenades and bandoleers from various Space Marine kits
Chase Wood
A few odds n ends pistoliers/roughrider captain, ratlings mauder from a dwarf spur, 2 bullgryns from ogres with carried on theme, bag pipers/vox operators a few odd musket/laslock men and example of blank mortar base
So I'm slowly gearing up to paint my Lord of Change, wanted some advice on colour.
Instead of doing it like pictured, I was thinking of painting the "skin" (so the cream colour in the picture as well as the non feathered parts of the arms and legs) in a dark grey/black, the feathers in bright blue and the beak, claws, talons etc in bright yellow. How do you think that'd look in practice?
>Motivation is a false god, discipline is what gets you to do things. Holy shit ain't that the truth.
I've just about ground to a halt on the centrepieces for my Fools On Parade board (progress: exactly as much as last month) so I've sprayed the smaller bits and I'm going to sit down and do half to a full hour a night every night this week after the wife goes to bed. If thirty minutes of that is working on a side-model, and the drying time is spent mindlessly layering glossy white on the big pieces, that should be comfortably enough to get the small shit to an acceptabel level and the big bits covered.
I just need to finalise the shape of my board and start cutting foam, blocking areas and arranging the bois in a pleasing fashion.
Jacob Lee
>drilling barrels is for autists! >you use the wrong glue! Worst /wip/thread I've seen in a while. Post models or gtfo. will post when I get home from work
Chase Long
Yeah, this is way un-cozy my dudes.
Andrew Watson
Death to those who don't drill barrels and use super glue Jokes aside drilled barrels look better for minimal effort and superglue just leads to unnecessary breakages during transit, though I'd probably use it if I played a game where I'd actually want to change unit loadouts frequently
