I'm still a beginner at watering down and using a wet pallet but it doesn't happen often, I try to keep the edges of the bristles flat before I go over any crevice just sometimes it accidentally goes in.
Do I just try to put a minimal amount of the wash back in the crack and go back over the top?
Owen Gomez
Try to not even put the tip of the brush close to the recess. You'll learn brush control as you go. Personally I think it might be easier for you at this point to paint all the detail and things, and then do a controlled wash.
Ian Barnes
So quick question, I'm considering getting an airbrush. Is it worth it? Do they only work for larger things like vehicles or could you use them on infantry? Do they do fine detail or only broad strokes? Are there any tricks to them or things a prospective user should know before they fuck up badly?
Don't expect to dot eyes with it or anything, and it won't make you a good painter over night. At most you'll probably be able to do pre/post-shading on medium sized vehicles with an entry level airbrush. I use mine to prime and basecoat so I can use more time to detail. Also order a masters set off amazon, it is the best way to start.
Ethan Moore
you probably won't be able to use it for the smallest of detail work on infantry models, but an airbrush is extremely handy for basecoloring quickly as well as painting bigger details, especially OSL effects and gradient shadows. e.g. my skitarii were painted using an airbrush
> the other day > normal day like always, gf is cleaning up the apartment, going through the mountain of old mail >suddenly she comes into the room, pause game, hands me an envelope "I completely missed this one, I assume it's for you" > addressed from "Newly four armed user" , open it > it's a thank you card from the user I gave my /wip/ secret santa gift to this/last/2017 whatever year >he had wanted genestealers to try the hobby, so I gave him a full box of neophytes, a mountain of bits, and some of my own custom cultists, a custom genestealer ogryn, etc >it's a full personal letter, basically says I inspired him and sent him "into 2018 with a sense of wonder" >says I'm one of the kindest people out there >have no idea how long this letter was hiding in plain sight without ever responding >mfw I left user hanging
>mfw it took me like 15 minutes just to find a reaction image that came even close to emulating a heartfelt, genuinely nice feeling
CA user if you're in here I just want you to know you made my whole week with that, I'm genuinely happy and I never meant to snub you, I'm so sorry
if it fits my chapter's theme and I do it consistently on all models of the same rank throughout my army/collection, then yes.
Otherwise he looks fine as is.
Isaac Jackson
Nah fuck that, you made my whole damn year with that user, I'm keeping this card forever
Isaiah Taylor
That's actually really nice user. Can't you send a little OKTHX note back to four-armed user? Either way, it's a really cool gesture you did. Good on you for spreading the hobby.
Christian Thomas
Wow! I really like those colours, user! That brown turning to metallic black cloak is a really interesting effect, too. Looking good!
Nathan Davis
Anyone got that pic tutorial on how to paint white armor?
Christian Wright
Is there something like cling wrap I could use on green stuff to press a shape in without sticking them together? I want to have the option of putting my 1" mini into a 2" base, so I'd have to sculpt pretty tight to the circle.
Magnets come in whatever size you buy them in. I've seen 1mm x 1mm and even .5mm x .5mm magnets sold online.
Greenstuff question confuses me. If you mix in less yellow, it will be less tacky and want to stick to everything.
Jackson Smith
>I want to have the option of putting my 1" mini into a 2" base, so I'd have to sculpt pretty tight to the circle. why not just use a holepunch or holecutter? If you want to build the 2" base up around the small base just trace the small base's outline on the big one and sculpt around that. You can always cut stuff away once it's cured or do a test fit before letting it sit to dry.
Nicholas Nguyen
I think it could help balance him out. Maybe overkill with the banner though.
Angel Price
Want to bash some Psykers for my Imperial Guard since the only GW ones are in metal.
What can I use as a base to build off of?
Jaxon Green
Because I don't own a 1" hole bit, and a paddlebit wouldn't work
I don't want to trace and cut because I want it to be as close to seamless as possible and I don't trust my knife skills well enough
Chase Rogers
>because I want it to be as close to seamless as possible then you should use a base topper for the smaller base that plugs into the big one. Take a look at the FW diorama bases for their Primarchs and the like to see what I mean.
Juan Kelly
I'm relatively certain Kingdom Death uses a unique diameter
Can’t seem to focus on a single army so I’m flitting back and forth between my Minotaurs and Undead while working up my confidence to start on Sons of Horus.
yeah what I mean is to add something over the small base that will maybe extend a few millimeters over the lip of the base and key into the larger base. The small base should recess into the large base so that the floor level of both is even.
Say you have some cracked concrete or something like that on your bases. Just find a piece that's slightly bigger than the small base and arrange the other pieces on the big base around it in a way that it blends in naturally.
Robert Collins
I like the colors on the skeletons, and the basing on the marines is a nice fit for the minotaurs. Nice work, I really like both of those.
Adam Brown
Say I wanted to use salt for some bases, would the salt dissolve in the watered down pva before the glue set?
Repostan blightbringer since I won't have a chance to work on him for good while. If anyone can nitpick, if appreciate it. I know I need to finish the plasma and clean up the nurgling a little
The plan is to sculpt in some rocks and giant stone faces, with him standing atop. So I think I can manage to recess it in. Will take a long time though. Wish me luck.
Jason Lee
Always take 2 claws user.
Samuel Ramirez
I love white deathguard. Such a cool look.
Nicholas Perez
Thanks man.
I basecoated the shields Corax White and blended my way through Gauss Blaster Green, Sybarite Green, Cabalite Green and Incubi Darkness making the colors darker towards the bottom of the shield and finally gave it a thinned down Coelia Greenshade wash to tie it all together. Any shields with holes in them got a Gauss Blaster Green highlight on the lower edge of the hole.
>Say I wanted to use salt for some bases what could you possibly want to use that for?
Just use white sand or paint some sand white after gluing it down. It it has to be transparent you can use crushed glass or a snow glitter effect.
Using perishables, especially if water soluble, is not a good idea.
Landon Stewart
Picked up some stormhost silver layer paint, will this work as a highlight for retributor amour+reikland flesh shade as well as leadbelcher+nuln oil? Using silver for a gold highlight seems counter intuitive to me
Okay, so a friend of mine sent me a shit ton of poorly painted old ass tyranids, I got me a bottle of simple green that is undiluted. I got around 55 models to clean including two old Alien Queen stile hive tyrants, so around 46 of them need a bath, most of that is 18 genestealers, and gaunts. My main question is, since I only got 24 fl oz, what concentration of simple green should I be using for this? 1:0, 1 oz Simple Green:1 cup of water. 1:10, 1:30?
William Perez
Math??!
I would skip the simple green. I used something called "super clean." Came in a purple jug, cost like 6 bucks and it works great in just a few hours!
Isaac Clark
>My main question is, since I only got 24 fl oz, what concentration of simple green should I be using for this? 1:0, 1 oz Simple Green:1 cup of water. 1:10, 1:30?
If a Chaos Engine leaves Chicago traveling west at 50 mph...
I think I'll give it a try with 1 oz:1cup concentration and look for the super clean stuff if I ever get a batch like this again or this doesn't work out. At least I am out at most roughly $4.
Joshua Johnson
So, what's a good way to get a ton of detail off semi-cleanly because I want this librarian's torso, but not that shin bling.
I figured as much, but I thought using real salt for a salt planet would be fun.
Connor Cox
That's gonna be tough. I assume you're talking about the left leg, which pretty much only works if you're Blood Ravens or Blood Angels (the right shoulder pauldron is a separate bit). As you can see from the attached assembly instructions, that leg is a single piece, sharing with the edge of the loincloth. You'd likely damage one trying to remove/modify the other.
your best bet might just be to separate the torso from the legs
David Hughes
Twenty snakes. As many as two tens.
I built the first five each of sisters and stalkers more or less to specifications (I preferred the heads with faces and gave the archers leaders an extra piece of armour or two) and spent time on the next batch trying to mitigate the monopose-ness as best I could.
I dig it. It's unfortunately obvious that its chassis is from a Rhino, but if you look past that it has a really cool feel to it. Would run/10.
Benjamin Gray
Yeah, sadly I wanted it to be technically GW legal so it had to be at least 50% gw garbage. If I was better at making stuff on my own it'd've been cool to make some tracks.
Thanks for digging it dude
Owen Sanchez
It looks kinda orky
Ryan Barnes
Initially I managed to somehow misread it as being a GSC vehicle. I guess it being admech makes the whole combined structure make a lot more sense, given how it happens in lore.
Justin Wood
He should be able to just cut the detail off cleanly with a hobby knife. Then depending on the damage, file it down smooth, or rebuild it with some greenstuff. Shouldn't be that hard.
Levi Hall
Now that's an old school /WIP/ meme
Eli Wilson
Maybe get some plasticard to try to disguise the sides a bit?
Got any examples? Because I'm not exactly good with plasticard freehand. I used some on the thing to fill in gaps and such, but nothing more at the moment, so I've still got plenty lying around.
Isaac Murphy
I googled "tank plasticard" and found a decent amount of added armor plating that seems reasonably simple to do. Just tack on rivets and maybe extra bits and vehicle accessories and you should be good.
Nicholas Rodriguez
Does /wip/ use instagram? Is there anyone out there worth following? Are there any industry painters who post tutorials or the like?
Robert Nelson
googling away now, thanks
Zachary Walker
im diggin the turret. looks real good. as for the body have you considered spaced armor?or some side sponsons to break up the shape? personally i like it reminds me of the KV2
Spaced armor could potentially work work well. The exhaust pipe bulges on the sides of the Rhino would be more or less the perfect spacing. Currently thinking about combining that with some extra plasticard to make the back of the rhino tracks vertical instead of the 45 degree angle.
David Nelson
what colour to paint my BA successors?
Aiden Richardson
red
Nathaniel Jackson
nah I want something different and lamenters while cool, didn't participate at dev of baal.
So...what colours for a homebrew?
Christopher Wright
fuchsia
Robert Davis
Posted these bases a few days ago. I'm currently working on a flyer base in the same style. My dudes' background is they're a chapter of marines especially interested in reclaiming lost planet's and finding artefacts. I'm thinking they could be on a one time shrine world. What kind of subtle signs of life could I put on that nice big base to suggest an abandoned world? Already planning on some rubble, maybe an old signpost. No problem, make sure to show us what you do. Cool stuff man, just got one myself. Knights of Blood!
knights of blood are dead jim, but did have a great scheme
Zachary Jackson
I'm trying to think of what scheme to do my Bundeswehr for Team Yankee in. I'm thinking a feldgrau, as if the tanks only recently rolled off the production line, but I'm not sure.
Whit is fairly hard to get thin. Prime grey and go to a. Off white, airbrush primers, wet blend up, black lining on a white spray prime.... but just layering up from foundation grey to white is really mehhhh
I’m a bit high but getting an thinner/easy white is achievable by heavy weathering. Some low quality tau I mentioned a few post backs but this is brown prime, foundation grey, layer watery off white and then wash pat down paper towel, washes, pigments
Fairly easy no need to mess with black lining or glazed. Don’t use gloss wash or secret weapons washes. Whewwww sorry for going off topic Lizardman tau dude. I like the blue orange combination honestly
Undecided on the chapter for the dead marine. Which is better for base corpses, going with something that contrasts my armies scheme? Something that compliments?
