How do you seal your miniatures, the matt varnish i used looks very glossy and i am unhappy with it, is there any method or product to archive a real matt finish? Pic related
I take offence to the filename and the your lack of effort concerning cropping your uploads.
Sometimes if you use too much matte varnish it can come out glossy. You are better off - like with mostly anything else - doing several thin passes instead of overspraying.
Personally I use the Army Painter matte and I never had a problem with it. It's ultra matte though. The natural finish of most paints is satin matte, so somewhere inbetween gloss and matte.
I also hear good things about Tamiya brand matte varnish. If you own an airbrush you could give vallejo a try as well.
Tyler Price
Minor warboss/10
Looks good though
Thomas Stewart
The DKoK are based more on the French aesthetic than German.
Mason Cox
What do you think about these colors? I quite like how they came out.
Colours are awesome for the contrast keep it up. Maybe add some metallic colour or weathering effects?
Ryan Hill
maybe making the edge highlights less predominant or cleaning up the corners to be more straight. looks good tho
Jayden Brown
I want to try to do as little metals as possible- the ends of the antennas and the rail rifles clip are silver, for instance. Weathering I'm still afraid of, I haven't tried it yet. I still have so much to work on to build as well, and finish the big guy conversion.
all you gotta do for weathering is get your highlight colour for the blue or orange and lay down a small streak or a bit of a flurry of a corner or something then you just fill in the area inside the bright colour to the edges with a black then metal or just metal so that it comes up to the edge of the highlight but not covering it. Looks like the paint has been chipped or scraped away. super simple
Brandon Howard
Skink heads are rad too
Bentley Reed
How would you go about converting Ork-ish stuff to be Iron Warrior-ish? I know Orks are complete and total shit so I want to make a fluffy Ork army that takes after Perturabo and the Iron Warriors. I know tons of artillery, but I want to make a sort of FW Pert Ork and I'm not entirely sure how to go about it.
Brody Morales
I really like the minis you got and the paint scheme as well.
There is something about the bases though that seems a little off to me. Maybe it's because they are such a drab monocolor metal in contrast to the squeaky clean and bright models on top.
I feel like they'd probably blend a bit better if you'd paint some chipped paint effects and a few bits and bobs on the bases. I don't even want to say rust, cause then you'd have orange on the bases as well.
Nathan Gray
It's common practice mong orks to loot wargear, weapons and armor and even to imitate enemies they have developed a grudging respect for. So adapting weapons and even colors similar for IW is perfectly fine in terms of fluff and official background. So if you say your orks were involved in a whaag for some time fighting IW or got their butts handed to them once there is a lore friendly reason for this to happen.
>ut I want to make a sort of FW Pert Ork and I'm not entirely sure how to go about it. FW? like you want to use the FW model? Not sure what that means. I'd say just use a big mek in mega armor and big hammer with a grumpy disposition and a thing for large guns and you are there.
Landon Ortiz
Honestly, its hard to see in this picture. Take one a bit farther back to give us a better idea of the effect. That beard looks sweet tho
Cooper Young
love them conversions, might have to steal someday
Honestly for me it looks like his face is melting off. I think you went too overboard with the white. Maybe if you had used a ligher flesh tone for the glow and white for the eyes it would look more natural.
I like the jade alot. I went with olive drab/orange for mephrit from a white dwarf. It looks like you drybrushed? or was it coelia greenshade over silver crons?
sweet sweet. only the bases (left one) look a little bit uninspired. make them pop a little more.
Levi Reed
Have been painting a knight, things were going fine until I started work on the top part of the armour. instead of a nice even spray the primer I was using just spewed out huge thick globs of paint. No idea what happend there. I decided to see if it would look ok painting over it or if I'd need to strip it, I think it'll be ok.
What color should I highlight my leather with? I did the leather with a 33/66 Rhinox Hide + Gorthor brown. I was thinking 50/50 Gorthor + Karak Stone. I have lots of citadel range if anyone has any suggestions though. Only 5 more skelegates to go highlight/varnish/clean hahaha :^(
>drill a hole to put a pin in >drill too deep and the pin just falls in >cant get it out the fuck do I do guys. I tried a magnet but I dont think it's strong enough. I don't have a spare part to try again with.
Julian Peterson
other pin with superglue on the tip, touch tips (kek) and pull it out when it dried?
Jose Ross
It'll look amazing when it's done.
Tyler Wood
that armoured truck will be nice hard cover, too.
Noah Edwards
Head is painfully right angled, and please remove the flash from the arms!
Josiah Hughes
Working on a ruined archway for a friend. I’ve found I prefer working on terrain to figures. Concrete and clay composite over a foam frame for this one.
How does it look from two feet away. That stark paintjob probably does the job you're trying to do.
Hudson Anderson
I got this franz and death chicken 2nd hand and he used plastic glue, it's driving me nuts trying to paint this thing. Is there anyway to disassemble without fucking the model?
Alright so I found a spear, means my dire avenger exarch has to dual wield shuriken catapults now though.
Trimmed down the weapon length, changed the weapon head, and changed the angle of his head. Only things I cant change are the legs, and the angle of the spear (because of the legs)
plastic glue works by melting the plastic together, it's permenent, depending on how much glue they've used you might be able to snap it apart but I wouldn't want to risk it.
Carson Reed
Anyone have a good recommendation on a decent brush set that wont break the bank? The set from micheals craft store for $5 has become unruly with stray hairs and snap with a light breeze. I'm starting to really enter mini painting as a hobby and this shit wont cut it.
That looks pretty swell The portal looks goofy, but the rest is really nice
Luis Long
Can you go ahead and prime most unpainted plastics? Most of my modeling experience has been with Gunpla and you're supposed to sand those first, but when I work with GW plastic stuff I can go ahead and prime it OOB, so how do I know when it's necessary?
Cameron Carter
You need to get rid of the mold lines and file down the bits where it came off the sprue before you prime it.
Sebastian Bailey
Working on a Riptide as a one off piece. Thought I'd paint something a bit different to the usual imperial/chaos stuff. Got both arms done, just need to paint the body and base it.
While I'm here, got a discord server dedicated to Veeky Forums things. Come along and talk shit with us discord.gg/bJR3hJf
If that happens next time and you're working on a big smooth piece like that, just wet sand out the flaws. It's not something you can do on minis, but on stuff like hulls you usually can.
Carter Walker
Dangeriously cheesy/10
Seriously it has a nice old school vibe to it. Reminds me of the old chaos conversions where people just went nuts.
James Young
So if I go to Wal-Mart and get a bucket of army dudes, I'll just have to clean them up before priming? Plastic doesn't matter? Sorry if that sounds hostile, just making sure.
Carson Lopez
Those look great.
>square bases It took me a while to deal with the change, but I think I've come around to the idea to get back to my WHFB stuff and finish it. I don't think I'll ever play AoS, as I don't play in general anymore, so I'm just gonna paint the rest of my WHFB armies on squares, as I originally intended.
Christian Gonzalez
>just went nuts. Pretty much what I did with these guys. I assembled a CSM army from random models and conversion I haven't fielded in forever.
Thanks a bunch!
Thomas Phillips
Even plastic army men will have mold lines
Nicholas Long
Drill the barrels on the gun.
Other than that it's cool.
Joseph Jenkins
That's not my point, I'm talking about whether I need to sand them or do any work on them besides cleaning mold lines and scrubbing them with soap and water.
Gavin Barnes
What size micron pen for the recesses?
Ryder Cox
You always need to clean resin with soap and water.
plastic i dont usually clean, but you absolutely need to get rid of the mold lines and any rough bits, usually with a craft knife
without the visible open topped crew bit that suit actually looks pretty cool
Lincoln Lewis
Sweet Tittyfuckin' Aun'va.. I loathe the Stormsurge on principle for being a ghastly model hat is also extremely un-Tau but this is the only way I'd ever field one.
Matthew Jones
Sanding probably helps the primer to adhere better but if you're planning on varnishing models it's really unnecessary
Kayden Flores
"The objective is simple, capture and hold the Pringles™ silo!"
Wyatt Collins
None, just washes. Drakenhoff and Fuegan.
Jack Jones
White seems a tad thick on the mech. It's hard to get white paints to flow properly so I won't blame you there. The highlights seem a bit wobbly at places but overall are well done. Really love the color scheme and the choice of colors to highlight with is great, keep it up.
Eli Hernandez
First time using paint on primer. How’s it looking? Putting on the paint didn’t feel as smooth as with the sprayed primer, so I’m not sure if I primed it less than ideally, or if that’s just because of the type of primer.
I’m also blind and retarded so I didn’t notice the mold lines until it was too late. Please forgive me, /wip/
