WIP - Work in Progress General

Just put it in the fridge.

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox

>DIY Spraybooth

>DIY Wet Palette

>How to Moldlines

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting

>Thin ya paints, ladz:

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:

Previous thread:

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First for team rocket

Here goes attempt 2 at a dwarf

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i see you're going for the guild wars 2 school of dwarf design

Decided to go with a blue and see how it looks. I don't think it's that bad, need to clean up the white lines though. Thoughts?

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>celestra gray (~3 layers)
>drakenhof nightshade (diluted with lahmian medium)
>ulthuan gray (1-2 layers), maybe a final highlight with white scar

Actual results:
>celestra goes on maybe a bit thick despite needing 3 layers to cover, but within acceptable (for my skill level) bounds
>shade works more or less as expected
>ulthuan gray covers so harshly that even a tiny error is glaringly obvious, after two coats is so thick it clogs details no matter how much I thin it

I just want a cool white why is it so difficult

hehe had a nice chuckle

Damn that's cool
Looks like it's made out of glass

I've been thinning down my ulthuan with airbrush thinner, it helps with getting the bigger surfaces done and doesn't thicken up so much. I'm now airbrushing the armor but there's still always plenty to clean up after the wash stage even if I'm careful.

9th for beaks

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How should I paint my Legion empire models?

Classic glossy white, dark blue on gray, or gray on black?

>dark blue on gray

made my primaris marines have bunch of beakies as well, favourite kind are ones with the lines closer to the point.

How am I doing so far as a beginner getting into the hobby? The last time I did any of this sort of stuff was when I as a poor 16 year old with like 5 paints.

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Looks good to me.

Whites look a bit flat and chunky but the reds and metallics are all nice.

I special ordered the helm for my sgt

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Still testing metal for my iron sakes. This is a shinier one than last time, for anyone who saw my other tests...

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Tomorrow I'll do the meltagun and start highlights

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Fuuuck i want these. I've always wanted to make a knight house with one knight and a few sentinel type outriders.

well now that I have these the sentinel outriders I actually got will never see the light of day

do it for me user, i'm too broke at the moment to realise my dreams

I'll run as much of it as I can once everyone's painted

How did you get that silver? I wanna use it for

I feel like the faceplate is missing something. Its got no face or visor or whatever. What about a cylon type light or something on the front, be it horizontaly moving or vertically.

Pic related

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Or maybe even red lines below the center metal bit like a dark horse in armour

I was just going to hit it with gloss
I might try this though

Hey user, how did you paint that multimelta?

My dude ist coming along, still need to do the Rust and some details.

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Some brighter blue layers to add to cover up the wash next to do.

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Your lines look shaky as hell, but it looks nice otherwise.

So are 30k Dark Angels a boltgun drab color or black with boltgun trim?

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I need opinions.
I kitbashed by skitarii with guard to create these plasmavets.
Before I go too far with all the sergeants and other special weapons guardsmen, what do you think.
My guys play like guard, but I want to have a AdMech fluff to them, plus some iron hands allies in the future.

Good or bad idea?
How can I make this work better?

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so, how do you guys deal with painting the same (or similar) models over and over again without cutting corners? I'm on my 60th gretchin (out of 90)

I also painted 15 more goblins, cause they're FW and unique "meks". (my playgroup would allow them as meks if I made their strength and toughness 2)

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Bloat-Drones are go!

Looks good enough, even though some of the smears on his arm look a little to broad for a 1:35 scale.

It's alright, don't worry about it. Maybe add some loose cables here and there?

I usually try to switch out small parts. A head here, a weapon there. So you at least have some kind of variation, even if the poses are always the same.

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Absolutely disgusting, beautifully done user.
I hate the cartoony heavy metal Death Guard GW had on the book.
Any guides on how to make them more grotesque? I want other players to smell the colors.
I also play DG, but my painting so far is only half done.

The bloat drones look really beautiful.

>Looks good enough, even though some of the smears on his arm look a little to broad for a 1:35 scale.
The smears are going to be rust. I hope it is going to look better after a mournfang brown drybrush and a little orange.

Forgot the reference...

Reposting from the earlier thread, it hit bump limit as soon as i posted. Went and did a rework on the Old Blood on foot, i think the red/blue shield looks more menacing than the green one. Also more work on the general, almost done with the scales/skin. Comment and critique more than welcome!

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Thanks man! I ended up changing the Warrior´s shields entirely blue, so the red should stand out on the Old Blood. Jade is a mix of:
>Stegadon scale green
>Kabalite green
>Sotek green
>Temple guard blue
>Screaming skull

If you want the jade more blue i replace Sotek green with teclis blue and temple guard blue with lothern blue. Mix from dark to light till happy with result.

Is that from Forgebane?

The second.

Technically they are all black, pauldron backings and trim are affectations.
They just did it to make a otherwise dull scheme stand out a bit more.

Where's that helmet from?

Ravenwing command squad i believe.

beautifully disgusting!

I'll prob just do the boltgun trim for variation.

I can't wait to try and do checkers

Ravenwing command.

Super simple, all GW. Nuln oil GLOSS over leadbelcher and then a soft polish with stormhost silver (like dry brushing but with a very soft tip brush you can get at an arts&crafts store)

Oh now this right here was what I needed to see.
Not sure about the eyes personally, but otherwise it looks great.

You've probably been asked 100 times but how did you do that head conversion? Whats the parts?

it's the leg cover of an onager dunecrawler, I think

Could also work well with a Soulgrinder Leg Plate
if theyre renegade ofc

If you want a little variation, go look for some of the Gorka-Morka grots on e-bay. They are cast in metal, but you'll find variance in the sculpts... they're also the same style as the current ones. They even have a couple of character sculpts; The Red Gobbo, a Banner Wava and a 'Head Honcho'.

Looks really good.
Better be putting those on squares user.

So Anons,

I posted this guy yesterday and someone mentioned doing a highlight and wash.

I’ve honestly never done highlights and a ‘wash’ for me was just mixing some black/brown paint with water and going over the model.

As such, I have a few questions.

1. Highlights for black are Grey correct? Would those go on raised edges facing up? (Edge of shoulder guard\top of knees)

2. For Washing, is it just as simple as putting nuln oil on everything?

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>1. Highlights for black are Grey correct? Would those go on raised edges facing up? (Edge of shoulder guard\top of knees)

Yes, some have luck with a white crayon if you're gonna varnish after

>2. For Washing, is it just as simple as putting nuln oil on everything?

Some things take well to.. washing everything, most though are better of with a selective wash, load up a small brush with it and then paint it into crevices, makeing sure to use a brush top mop up and pooling.

Ok, I’ve got some grey I’ll try out and I’ll do some Nuln oil later into crevices

Side question, should I get an actual Palette?
I’ve been using cardboard as a makeshift one and I think it’s absorbing water too quickly for me to thin the paint

Do note, different washed work with different things.

Nuln should be used for silvery metal and black-grey-white parts, soon as there's colour use a corresponding wash or as the jack-of-all, master of parchment wash Agrax Earthshade.

Use wax/baking paper.
You can evnen get it in pre-cut sheets for lunchboxes.

Ok, so Nuln is NOT for everything

Ok, I think I may have some wax paper

Yeah, and null comes int two versions, matte and gloss, matte is matte and loosk gold on matte surfaces, the gloss is better for metal parts as it looks less.. soot'ish.

This here for example

I washed the bronze and bone with Agrax cause they are brown'ish
Bolter, steel and spikes with Nuln (and the visor/breathing slits for increased definition)
And then i had a seperate wash for the green/yellow/purple (well actually they ARE washes layered up)

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Matte for mattes, gloss for shine, got it.

Finished working on my Stormsurge conversion, and started the airbrushing.

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And his sweet robot dinosaur tail. It was a pain in the ass.

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Pink and orange?

But yea the tail is sweet, though.. the clean lines of the model itself makes the softer details stand out on the tail.

I'd gone over it with a file to sharpen the edges.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out.

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The red is the primer, the other colors are blue and a whitish gray. I did go over it with a file, though apparently not enough. Oh well.

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Trying a brain glowing from within look.
Which looks better, the left one or central one?

or are they both shit and I should start again.

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