Chess thread

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Veeky Forums has by far the best chess threads

Rh8+ Kxh8
Rh1+ Kg8
Rh8+ Kxh8
Qh1+ Kg8
Qh7#

Qb2+ Kxb2 (if Ka4, then Ra7+ Ba6 Rxa6#)
Nxc4+ Kb3 (not sure what is best)
Nxe5

From there, black is slightly ahead, but it's still a tricky endgame. The pawn on g4 won't last, but neither will black's c and b pawns.

Both correct.

White to move and win

White to move and gain a decisive advantage

Queen checks king. King takes queen (or else checkmate in two), knight takes bishop, forking king and queen, king moves somewhere, knight takes queen. Black is up a knight with the white king totally exposed and it should be an easy win from there.

Been a while since I've played, what does Rgh1 mean?
I would have thought that it meant Rook on g to h1, but there's no rook on g and already a rook on h1.

For a low elo scrub, is chessacademy any good?

Nf7?

1. Kf6 Kh5
2. g8=Q Bxg8
3. Kg7 Kg5
4. h3 Kh5
5. h4 Bd5
6. h7 Kxh4
7. h8=Q+

1. Rxd5 cxd5
2. Bb5 Qf7
3. Qxf7+ Kxf7
4. Bxa4

Is that it?

The chess term for a scrub is 'patzer.'

Rh8+

Nc6

chess is for fucking simpletons. There's nothing special about being "good" at chess it's just a calculation game. It requires no high level abstract thinking like maths does. It's basically the same as being good at multiplying numbers in your head.

1. Nc6, Qxc6 to avoid the mate on c7
2. Nxa7+ for the king/queen fork

Used to play chess a lot as a teenager, but I kinda got bored of it for a while. I was around 1600 though. I reckon if I picked it back up and actually practiced hard I could get back to that level fairly easily, although that seems to be where I hit my plateau.

Rg7 avoids the mate

>chess is for fucking simpletons. There's nothing special about being "good" at chess it's just a calculation game. It requires no high level abstract thinking like maths does. It's basically the same as being good at multiplying numbers in your head.
Chess is quite a bit like mathematics, once you are beyond the basics of calculating where games aren't won with simple combinations it's all about abstract thinking. Depending on the style of player, they strive for simple positions with miniscule advantage where abstract thinking is everything or complicated positions where calculation takes precedence over positional principles. Take the following classical position, for example (white to move). Brute force calculation will take you nowhere. Instead you need to understand what makes black worse here and play to that end.
>isolated pawn needs protection at all times
>Bishop is limited by its own pawn
>you need to limit it further, attack the pawn and try to use your superior mobility to create and try to exploit another weakness on the kingside in order to overload the bishop
There are several layers of abstraction between knowing how to move the pieces and playing the moves. Black too needs to understand all of that and more in order to draw this difficult position.

My previous posts somehow failed to go through.
That's exactly what it means, look again.
Nope
Kinda sorta, but yep
Yes
Never used it, but it's supposed to be decent, nothing special.
Yep, but what after Rg7 or Rd6 though?

g8 Bg8
Kf6 Kh5
Kg7 Kg5
h3 Kh5
h4 Kh4
Kg8

and the rest is easy if I didn't overlook something

Knight to c6. Queen takes, other knight forks queen and king. Bishop takes or black ignores, Queen takes pawn, mate.

>ah, yet another chess thread on Veeky Forums, I'm curious to see what they're up to today
>ctrl+f
>carlsbad
>0 results
dropped

>it's just a calculation game
Are you one of those "chess is 99% tactics"?

>tfw in the 5th percentile of chess players

what's wrong with my brain? I understand fundamentals like protecting your pieces and basic tactics

>only understands the ideas that everybody else who plays chess understands
>>Why am I not better than everybody else?

advance king near end pawns
acquire queen(s) and proceed to rape

Any other book recommendations or advice for people who are terrible at chess?

>lower rated than a chinese smartphone
Why do you even exist?

b5 to a7
king forced to b8
e5 to d3
ITS YOUR MOVE
terrorize the fuck out of the queen, by constantly with the knights

Hmm, didn't think about that. I suppose then just Nxa7+(not quite sure which knight is better to take with, although if I had to guess it would be with the knight on b5). After Kd7 I have no idea, although white clearly has a dominant position.

>took a group of chess grandmasters and gave them boards with random/irrational movesets
>chess grandmasters performed as poorly as chess novices in solving them
>found chess is almost entirely dependent on rote memorization rather than intelligence

>chess is the biology of strategy games

how sad for you

After kd7 it seems like ur knight on a7 is gonna get trapped.

Any good books for those beyond above 2000?

*above 2100

ummm Qa5 thanks for the free knight

not a chess nerd but no one gives a shit that games are pointless you dumbfuck

>Endgame manual - Dvoretsky

This is only useful for IMs 2400ish IM's to break the 2500 barrier and get a GM norm. Don't waste your time.

Yeah maybe, although white has some opportunities to throw a counterpunch, such as attacking the now hanging rook on g7 with Qe5, which starts to generate a lot of threats. Although maybe just immediately getting up the exchange with Nxd8 is better. Either way, I wouldn't want to be black in this position.

What threats? I'll just move my rook and ur not winning a exchange because your knight on a7 is trapped

I'm not just threatening the rook though. If say Rg8, then I have Rxd5+, and suddenly you're getting mated. Not sure what the best defense for black is here desu.

Do those recommendations apply to someone rated ~1300?

No.

Get these. qualitychess.co.uk/docs/14/artur_yusupovs_awardwinning_training_course/

You can find them on Amazon. They're a good price for what you get out of them, which is from where you are now to above 2000. The books OP recommend are for players around 2000.

*it can get you from where you are now to ~2000 Elo.

Thanks. Will look into that. I have a few more questions if you don't mind.

Is it true that at lower levels chess is 99% tactics?

Would you recommend starting at the very beginning of the book series you mentioned even though I'm familiar with most of the motifs in the book (from looking at the ToC) for completeness' sake, or skip to a level that's challenging?

Also what do you think of stuff like chess.com lessons/tactics trainer?

Nc6.

Qxc6 leads to a King/Queen fork with Na7+.

Rg7 to protect c7 fails to:
Nxa7+ Kd7
Qxc7+
It's decisive for White.

Rd7 fails to Nxa7++. Rd6 to block Queen's diagonal is tricky for me.

OP here, I second the Yusupov books recommendations, you can torrent them. When you are around 1500, read My System.

That's just bullshit you read from some 1300 on chess.com. It's a 1800+ book and not to be read as your first endgame book, but IM level? Come on.
>Thanks. Will look into that. I have a few more questions if you don't mind.
>Is it true that at lower levels chess is 99% tactics?
Well, yes and no. More accurate is that 99% of the games are decided by a blunder that can be exploited by tactics. Obviously, it's very good to learn tactics, but it's meaningless without other stuff (how to win with a piece up, basic opening principles, how to win a pawn endgame, etc). You need to practice tactics.
>Would you recommend starting at the very beginning of the book series you mentioned even though I'm familiar with most of the motifs in the book (from looking at the ToC) for completeness' sake, or skip to a level that's challenging?
I'd recommend going from the beginning. If you already really know it, it'll take just a little. If you don't, you'll realise that.
>Also what do you think of stuff like chess.com lessons/tactics trainer?
I've been a huge on chesstempo when I was getting started, but if I could, I'd tell my past self to drop it and go for ct art. Go through every difficulty level at least 5-10 times. You want it burnt in in your mind.

Qxh5 is it?

>Nxa7
You mean Nbxa7 right?

Also if 1…Rd6 try 2. Rxd5

Yeah, Nbxa7. Rxd5 seems strong. Good find.

> sorry

Thanks a lot. I downloaded the first 4 Yusupov books. Should keep me occupied for a while.

>Chess is just a calculation game.

So how do you explain humans beating computers in the past even though computers calculated more?
It's not just calculating. There was a study that pointed out how GMs calculate less than nonGMs by average (breadth and depth) and still win more.

You idiot. That was performed to study if GMs have superior memory and it proved the opposite.

>found chess is almost entirely dependent on rote memorization rather than intelligence
That's just your conclusion and not from the study. Fuck off with your shitposting.

>The mathenatical essence of the game.
>How humans play.
They are not the same thing

That's my point. Our approach to the game as humans is different from how a turing machine would try to win. A turing machine approach would be just calculation which would be dull if the game was just that.

That other user said.
>>There's nothing special about being "good" at chess it's just a calculation game.

It is a calculation game . Computers only calculate more moves because their candidate moves are every single move possible whereas humans eliminate pointless moves or moves from peices that aren't involved in the action when they're considering possible moves. If you think that's intelligence you should kill yourself.

Computers can beat humans at regular chess but can they win at Chess960?

>humans eliminate pointless moves
Do you call this calculation aswell?

Where the fuck do I start out if I want to learn? I know all the basic rules of the pieces but I have no idea how the game is actually played, the "meta" if you will.

i guess you really gotta start out using the pawn well if you wanna move on with the other pieces. he's the starter pack for a reason, and with the appropriate items and stats you'd get a quality build, being able to use most weapons and all. i recommend the "Equine's Estoc" or EE as the community calls it, high capture damage, set piece agility, and diagonal move sets. you can get it after beating the first black Rook you see in Bürd Area in the Dünker village. i recommend killing the Dünker merchant to get the passive ability when you're on an even numbered tile.

Arguably they are even better at 960 because it's not as popular and humans aren't as good at it.

When I started out, I read a lot of Dan Heisman, he has this chess beginners article series. For a structured approach, Yusupov books mentioned in this thread are pretty fucking good. It takes a lot of work and time if you want to get decent though. You need to learn common tactics motifs (series of moves that win material), structure your thinking a bit (checks, captures, threats). My biggest tip is to play as slow as possible games. Blitz is fun when you are already a good player and you have a lot of the game automatised, but it's completely useless for improving.

Nonono

You start with the endgame.
First you need to learn the value of the pieces.

Queen 9 points
Rook 5 points
Bishop 3 points
Knight 3 points
Pawn 1 point

These aren't fix value as it's all dependent o the situation. For example 2 Rooks might be more valuable with 10 points than a Queen but Rook's are pretty limited when the board is too loaded and the opponent can quickly compensate.

Also two light pieces are still better than a rook and a pawn especially early in the game but these tradeoffs are things that can go either way.

Just always keep the value of pieces in mind when playing. If you've got the piece advantage trade EVERYTHING.

This is the easiest way to win. And for that purpose you need to learn how to mate with a single Queen, double rook, single rook, double Bishop and Bishop and Knight (Don't worry if you don't manage the last one. Very few people actually know how that's done)
Forced mate with knights is impossible.

Then you need to learn pawn endgame. Oh the pawn endgame is the most essential of learning how to win. Read books for that. You need to learn a lot of king and tempo tricks to learn howo to bring your pawn to the other side.

And then after you mastered all that you can start learning openings.
And middle game is just whatever hope you don't do anything stupid

>double rook
Redundant. If you can do it with 1 you can do it with 2. Remove that and you get the 4 elementary checkmates.

>Forced mate with knights is impossible.
Forced mate with 2 knights against lone king is impossible. 3 is possible with king's help. 4 is possible without king's help.

However, two knights vs 1 pawn is perfectly winnable in most cases and is an important aspect to master.

The first move was to put the king in check and save the knight
My writing is shitty I'll reformat;

Ka7
Kd3

now wut :^)

Na7
Nd3

>tfw you don't play online chess with muh abbreviations

GM preparation by Aagaard, serious study of Dvoretsky's Endgame manual is also a very good idea.

>However, two knights vs 1 pawn is perfectly winnable in most cases and is an important aspect to master.
I'm not even sure it's technically winning, but it isn't by any means important.

what if your opponent responds to Nc6 with his bishop?

Thanks, I actually just ordered the Grandmaster Preparation series and Dvorestsky's Analytic Manual before I saw your comment. So, you would recommend Dvorestsky's Endgame Manual as well?

I consider anything at least as frequent as bishop and knight checkmate important.

If the pawn is sufficiently far behind, it's a sure win for the side with 2 knights.

It's not even usually winnable, but it's the only way you can win with two knights. Happens much less often than a knight and a bishop mate and you all know how useful that is.

My advice would be to go calculation - > positional play - > strategic play. Skip last few exercises as they are graded by difficulty and the last few are usually hellish.
I'd definitely recommend Endgame manual, it's fucking amazing. It could keep a man busy for two years of work. Here's a screenshot, if you want I can post excerpt from any chapter.

It never happens. Really, it's study material. Pic related, Dvoretsky on KNNvsKP.

My bad, quoted the wrong guy.

Hey Veeky Forums, I have a few questions:
1) What kind of exchanges are usually favorable in the middlegame?
2) How does the piece value depend on its position?
3) What are the most common strategies to get from the ending of the middlegame to the endgame?

>Hey Veeky Forums, I have a few questions:
>1) What kind of exchanges are usually favorable in the middlegame?
You exchange if you can get something in return. Exchange pieces when you have little space, when you can exchange your bad for opponent's hood Bishop, when you can get a strong outpost square from which a knight can't be ever removed, etc. Avoid exchanging when you have more space and avoid exchanging your good for his bad piece.
>2) How does the piece value depend on its position?
Uhh, better position, more valuable, shitty position, tall pawn? Not sure what are you asking.
>3) What are the most common strategies to get from the ending of the middlegame to the endgame?
Look for moments when you can force a series of exchanges and evaluate if you can win the resulting position. Check this video out youtu.be/aX4EkEmWTcs

Trade your bad pieces for their good pieces.

Activity.

Trading.

Usually try to avoid trades unless you have to to avoid an attack or if you get a downright advantage.

1) Your pieces are in a more better position the more fields they can access. So usually the center of the board is what you wanna control.
2) Try to get all pieces out as quickly as possible direct them towards the king.

3) There is no clear line seperating them.
But rule of thumb is that it's endgame when you're only left with 1 or 2 big pieces each and a bunch of pawns

Not the same guy but
>Usually try to avoid trades unless you have to to avoid an attack or if you get a downright advantage.
It's this also true when playing for a draw?

Always depends.
If you trade all your active pieces against passive pieces of the opponent then your opponents attack is gonna be stronger than your defense.
If you trade all your pieces and your opponent has the better pawn structure he's gonna win even though none of you have any pieces.

And finally usually if you're the one inititing the trade it's usually the opponent's pieces that retakes leaving him with an developed piece and you gave up one of your developed pieces for trade losing both tempo and position advantage

Depends, like the other guy said. Can you draw it, how's your technique? Draws are usually hard against stronger opponents. You know that rook and pawn vs pawn is a draw, but you can bet that your opponent will try every trick along the way. Even fucking pawn endgames get tricky. Numerous times I've won (and lost) dead drawn endgames.

I've found a really good way to practice though, go through Dvoretsky's and whenever you learn a position, put in a database on your pc and play against the computer dozen times. Unless you can win/draw easily 5 times in a row, you don't understand it as well as you think. Repeat daily.

okay so queen is at a3 and king is at a1 and it's whites turn. why can't white move king back to a2 and just finish with the two rooks like was originally posted?

Kb1 Qb2#

lichess.org/aASrdHay

3+0 random colour

don't bother cheating, i fucking suck

new game

lichess.org/htaBiKRK

cmon m8s

i got rekt

en.lichess.org/Ed4cBaOR

Fug, my pc froze. Sorry about that user.

np

joint this 1

What's the best way to get a positional advantage?

There are many kinds of positional advantages. Read up on them.