Hey Veeky Forumshefs!

The bottom of a coffee mug is generally rough and uneven. It could mess up the angle of your knife's edge. It's likely better than nothing but just about that much.

For most of my knives, I hone on a ceramic rod a few times a shift depending on use, and give them a quick go over on the stones maybe once a week, again depending on use.

Since my main chef's knife got replaced by a new CPM-S90V knife, I only need to sharpen it once every week and a half to two weeks, if that.

Generally, my sharpening routine starts at 1000 grit since I do it often enough that I don't really need to use a coarse stone to get started, and progresses through 2000, 4000, and 10,000 grit followed by a leather strop.

Think that guy has skinned a cow or two in his day?
Very proficient. Quite an amazing thing to watch.

>uses a billion different grits followed by a leather strop
Are you a chef or something?

>doesn't know the swordsmith at Windhelm.

wow someone give me banning privs pls

Same, but with a plate instead

Nigger don't know shit

Just get a honing rod, it will work just fine. Really there is no reason to use anything more expensive than a $5 kiwi knife anyways so just throw it out when the blade gets too chipped.

Shun sharpens them for free if you mail them back to their Oregon site. I'm in the process of switching over to them as all my $30-40 blades wear out. Sharpening high quality kitchen knives correctly isn't simple and it's worth having professionally done. It's not really just about getting a great final edge. It's also that since they're good at it, they can do it removing less material from the blade and kwe ping it balanced. Over the years they're saving you steel you would have taken off messing around with it yourself. Blades eventually get lopsided and seriously damaged this way and then even more material has to be ground off to fix them. Since you'll never get as good as them just doing it every couple years yourself you're probably just wasting money if you diy. Makes Shun a no brainer imo.

>/DIY knifemaker

Depends on your budget, the hardness* of the knife and how much you want to spend, generally when I make a kitchen knife or the like I'll use a set of 3 diamond cuts. Coarse, Fine and Super Fine which are around 200, 300 and 400 grit- they remove a lot of material so I don't recommend if you're not very good at sharpening, but they get the bevel where it needs to be.
After that I use a 600 grit whetstone which will refine the edge, remove any big scratches and get rid of any thick spots left after the diamond cuts.
Final cuts are basically a set of 1200 and 2000 grit wet-dry paper glued to a square bit of wood that gets it really nicely polished, removes most of the burr along the edge, you can also do the same with a strip of glass, wet the sandpaper and it'll stick to it pretty well.
Last cut is diamond polish and a buffer, which is a mix of terror as you run the risk of horrendous injury- but it produces an extremely keen edge.
Finally, is a length of leather bolted to a bit of wood and you can just strop any burr that remains.

I'm not a fan of knife-steels, I find the leather strop to be a much kinder method to the knife that is just as effective at keeping the burr away and literally keeps it razor sharp.

>*Hardness or HRC on most kitchen, fillet and butcher knives is around 55-60, paring and speciality knives around 59-62
>Softer knife will be tougher, flexible and require more work through the day to keep sharp
>Harder knife will hold edge longer, run the risk of chipping on things like bone and be initially more difficult to sharpen

> OP photo
> not a tiramisu

There's this professional knife sharpener who pops up at the weekly farmer's market. Is it worth getting the knife just sharpened once a month or two?

Also, what would be a decent multi-purpose knife to maintain? I heard that you can get a very versatile Japanese knife for ~$100.

>giving your knives to a 'professional'

no thanks, they don't love my knives as much as i do

Lower the number, the coarser the stone. Coarser the stone, the more metal its going to remove from the knife.

More or less, you want a setup somewhere around this:
200 grade for removing chips and fixing tips.
1000 grade for forming/reforming an edge
4000 grade for polishing said edge
6000 grade and above for polishing it even further.

All these people have bad advice, do not listen.

Depends on how often you use your knife and it quickly it wears down.

Also don't ask Veeky Forums what knife to buy, you're going to get a lot of misinformation and no answers. I suggest finding a place that sells chef knives and getting hands on with them. Can't suggest a knife to a person I can't see.

OP's video in question in case you're clueless

youtube.com/watch?v=t39rhQs6Hqc

I'm not sure if you're kidding or if you're actually that stupid.

you guys and your fancy knives and here I am with my cheap kiwi thai knives

Every time I visit my mother I spend hours going through all her knives and sharpening them. Then she complains that they are too sharp and she cuts herself on them.

She's been using blunt knives so long now she doesn't know not to touch the pointy end.

How do you guys sharpen knives with a serrated section like pic related?

H-haha, I don't put my knives in the dishwasher. That'd b-be stupid, right?

>I suggest finding a place that sells chef knives and getting hands on with them.
Yes and no.
They couldsell you overpriced shit if they understand you're a home cook.

Better to get there with a few ideas in mind (like your budget, a few decent brands like victorinox etc)

Throw that shit in the trash and get a chef knife.

>fancy nancy has to have a fancy stone to sharpen a knife

Lansky Ceramic Sharp Stick

Who here Lansky jig or similar master race?

Throw it out and get a real knife, the set of fine pointy files you'd need to sharpen serrations would end up costing more anyway.

I just run my cheapy chef knife through my cheapy keychain sharpener a few times and it's good to go.