QTDDTOT

Is it a good idea to get an early 90s Acura Integra for less than $2500?

Am I overpaying for a set of Kosei K1 17x8.5 5x120 and Toyo R888s 255/45/17 with two track days for $800?

Wheels alone go for $700 new on tirerack, R888s have a ton of meat on them. Average price for used Koseis is $500-700.

sounds like a decent deal, but get a tire gauge to make sure it's good.

also inspect those spokes thoroughly for minor cracks

Why is there always a fat chick?

are lexus manual transmissions shit?

losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/5549395175.html

losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5547126307.html

>losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/5547126307.html

I would jump on that second one. Those things usually go for $2k more. ~130k miles isn't bad for one of those either

Thanks for the heads up. I spaghettied and backed out apologizing profusely to the seller after telling him I wanted to meet. Hope he doesn't get butthurt.

Kinda realized I have about $2k left to spend on my E36 M3 Street/Track project and I'd be better off spending that money on a set of coilovers/keeping liquidity in case more shit breaks. I wouldn't be ready to even put them on the car until at least June at the pace I'm going, so I'd only save $1-200. I have to redo all the bushings and balljoints on the suspension ($6-800 total) and get shocks or coilovers

*wheels and tires should be the last thing I spend money on when I still have to make sure the suspension it rides on stays in spec and the cooling system doesn't implode.

anything i should look out for?

if they have the EXACT same weight and dimensions it should be no problem BUT
>using no-name parts for your fly scooter
Engine rebuild when?

Would car engines work upside down? If they don't, what would be the cause of conflict and could it be made to run upside down without heavy modifications?

are you supposed to double clutch on downshifts or is blipping the throttle + synchros supposed to be enough

Found two vehicles that look abandoned and I want to buy one, did a VIN check and found a lien flagged for both of them. Does the lien have anything to do with why they'd be abandoned?

I see diesels shit on around Veeky Forums a bunch
Do diesels have mileage that much worse than a regular car?
Is diesel that much more noxious?
is it that much more expensive?

I have done a bit of googleing but everything is just IT'S AWESOME TOTALLY NOT SPEWING SHIT EVERYWHERE and it's ONLY 20 cents more expensive and nothing has any sources.

How reliable are the first gen dodge Dakotas? There's a club cab near me in relatively good shape for about 2k. 318, automatic, 4x4. Needs a new window on the back. Mechanically sound.

>would conventional ICEs work upside down?
no, the engine oil would run into the cylinders and hydrolock the engine

>how do?
a specially designed engine is the only way i see. There's only two recent mass produced engines that don't have cylinders arranged in a generally up down position, and they're rotaries (aka wankel) and flat (aka boxer) engines.

>free piston or opposed designs may also work

>were they abandoned because of their liens?
quite likely

diesels have epic low end torque and better fuel economy for less actual power output. They work on compression to ignite internal combustion instead of a spark plug so they are usually heavier and subjected to greater stresses than a normal gasoline engine
>better or worse is subjective

honestly the price varies on these things so much. Some are granny driven autos, some are riced out 5spds, some are autos that a hotboy raped, some 5spds are virigns owned by grandmas. You just need to inspect it, test drive the fuck out of it, and always haggle down. Good luck user

I recently bought a 99 Audi A4 Quattro 2.8L V6 with 67k miles. Is there anything I should know regarding reliability, maintenance, advice, etc?

>17 y/o VAG product
you are already ded

What?

The problem I'm having is a bit hard to describe.
Sometimes, my car's engine will seemingly randomly stall, and when I try to restart the engine, it gets up to around 2k rpm but then it quickly dips down to 0 again. The only way I can get it to start back up again is to start it and get the rpms up to around 2k, rev the engine with the accelerator, and quickly put it in drive and put on the accelerator again before the revs dip to 0. At this point the engine works fine.
Any idea what this is?

>wut
...sigh...
I will note your didn'ts

1) Didn't read the sticky- no Audis on list, only VAG product is VW GTI
2) Didn't know that all Audis are notorious for terrible reliability and high maintenance costs
3) Didn't know that all Audi drivers are, without exception, assholes

>tl;dr- u dun goof'd and driving consequences will never be the same

>never a year make and model

>any idea what this is?
I'd guess a '93 Honda Civic Hatchback?

anybody else care to take a guess?

>99 Audi A4 Quattro 2.8L V6 with 67k miles. Is there anything I should know regarding reliability, maintenance, advice, etc?
yeah, its gonna be a nightmare.
have fun with your VAG piece of crap.

>1) Didn't read the sticky- no Audis on list, only VAG product is VW GTI
I did read it. There should be one on it. Fun to drive and great for people who like getting dirty and using a wrench.

>2) Didn't know that all Audis are notorious for terrible reliability and high maintenance costs
I already know this. Not a problem. Aftermarket part prices aren't too terrible.

>3) Didn't know that all Audi drivers are, without exception, assholes
I did not know this, but I guess it makes sense. I'm kind of an asshole and I bought it off a cop.

>would conventional ICEs work upside down?
no, the engine oil would run into the cylinders and hydrolock the engine

>what are piston rings

If they can keep 200+ psi of compression in the chamber, I don't think the force of gravity would be able to force the oil past them.

What would actually happen would be your oil pump would starve and you'd murder all your bearings.

>how do?
a specially designed engine is the only way i see. There's only two recent mass produced engines that don't have cylinders arranged in a generally up down position, and they're rotaries (aka wankel) and flat (aka boxer) engines.

>what is a dry sump

Mind the pickup still might not work, and you'd probably still kill your pump, but depending on how many stages/pickups you had in it, you could probably make it work as long as you had a big enough oil reservoir.

>that response
>yeah i guess I'm kind of an asshole
enjoy your Audi, br/o/, and have this cool VAG webm for making my day

>also there's two VAGs in sticky
>Porsche got a mention in special snowflake part

>2005 Mazda 6
>High pitched squeal that sounds like belt noise
>Not belts
>When oil cap is opened, squeal stops
>Engine running like shit (P0300)

Any other explanations other than PVC valve/hose? Also, how bad is it to drive it like this? I'm in the middle of finals and can't get this shit sorted out until next weekend.

>If they can keep 200+ psi of compression in the chamber
>what is piston blowby?

>using a dry sump
>having an oil system as big as the engine itself
okay.

I'm going to be looking at a 77 toyota celica liftback next weekend.

Owner says everything is good just that it needs a new clutch pump

How hard is this to confirm/how hard is he trying to fuck me?

Mold

Musk

totally sounds like pvc or related vacuum hoses.
>how bad is this
it's squealing so that sounds like it's trying at least. it's not terrible but excess pressure will build up in the engine, which uncorrected could lead to gasket failure.

do dis:
>take pcv out and try to clean it; leaving it in some liquid green or strong dish detergent shouldn't hurt it
>examine hoses for holes or cracks; if hose replacement needed vatozone should sell vacuum hoses for less than $1/ft

I know Veeky Forums is going to call me an idiot but what's the best way to learn how to drive a manual? Should I just buy a cheap shitbox off craigslist?

yes.

Black Ice

>If they can keep 200+ psi of compression in the chamber, I don't think the force of gravity would be able to force the oil past them.

It's only a problem when you shut the engine off. Then it slowly seeps through the end-gaps and fills the cylinder while parked overnight.

Old radial airplane engines always had a couple of cylinders near-inverted, and other than having to drain oil from a cylinder before starting, they worked ok. Of course, they also had oil consumption rates measured in gallons per hour.

The problem is that for my car, checking the PCV valve means taking out the intake manifold which is a bit of a bitch.

Probably easier to just replace valve, hose and o-ring at once. They're cheap parts ($40 total).

The only reason I can think of for a squeal to go away when you open the oil cap is pressure building up in the crankcase, and the oil-cap gasket whistling.

Even if PCV system has issues, or is even completely blocked, the breather should still be flowing free and preventing pressure from building up in the crankcase. The breather is always at least double the size of the PCV system and can provide way more airflow when there's heavy blowby. Something would have to be seriously fucked internally to build up more pressure than the breather could blow off.

I think the noise was something else, and the timing was a coincidence.

In any case, it's never worth fucking with the PCV system unless you start getting idle-control or air/fuel ratio codes (i.e. a code that would indicate a vacuum leak). Any other PCV failures would be non-harmful to the engine, other than possibly slightly shortening oil life.

My 04 Ford Focus makes a "twung" kind of noise and I can feel it in the clutch pedal when I put it in 3rd and sometimes 1st wether the car is on of off what could this be? I recently got the clutch master cylinder done if that helps anything.
Thanks in advance Veeky Forums

My clutch squeaks.

'05 Civic.

Can I grease it, or how do I even maintain my clutch?

I've also got rough idle and a lean mixture code.

I tested it quite a few times and got the same result. Sound stops when oil cap is opened.

Do not grease your clutch for the love of God

Not him but why would you not?

Hey man, he just wanted to know if it could work. Never said it had to work well.

I never knew that about the airplane engines. That's actually pretty cool.

Most clutches now have hydraulic release bearings, so there's nothing to grease anymore. In the old days, if you were lucky, the clutch fork would be squeaking on it's pivot. In that case, you could grease the fork the next time the transmission was out of the car, but you'd pretty much just have to live with it until then. And if something in the pressure plate is squeaking, there's nothing serviceable in there; you just throw the whole unit away when the clutch disc wears out anyway.

So really there is no clutch maintenance for modern cars, other than replacing them when they wear out. Cars with mechanical/cable linkages periodically need adjusting, but now the linkage has been replaced with self-adjusting hydraulics. Periodically, that fluid might want to be changed, but on a lot of cars it shares a reservoir with the brake fluid, so it gets refreshed any time the brakes do.

Can you tell if air is moving into or out of the oil cap?

If moving in, you might be able to solve your idle & lean condition problems by blocking /capping the PCV where it meets the intake manifold. Even if you can't access the valve itself easily, you might be able to access just that one end of the hose. Auto shops sell little packs of assorted vacuum caps like image related for this sort of purpose.

Then you'd just have to deal with a dirty engine compartment and your p0300

Is this the Audi V6 that you have to take the whole front facia off in order to change the water pump?

Yes.

Either a large vacuum leak, or a failed Idle Control Valve/Idle Control Motor.

So I learned how to drive manual. How do I not slide back like 10 feet on an uphill stop when engaging the clutch? It seems like you either release it super slowly and slide back or risk lurching and shutdown.

Probably practice, right?

Also when braking you always shift into manual before doing so, right?

Anyone driven route 66 what's it like

Diesels get better mileage than gasoline engines in large part due to their higher compression, direct injection, and that they're all lean burn designs. The diesel fuel itself is also slightly more dense than gasoline, so a gallon of it is just more fuel, in general.

But since around 2012, we've been seeing a lot of these same design features make the jump to gasoline engines - compression ratios are going way up, and direct injection is becoming commonplace. CAFE regulations kind of forced the manufacturers hands on this, and the resulting gasoline engines are approaching Diesel efficiency. Mazda is even talking about building a direct-injected compression-ignition dual-fuel gasoline/diesel engine, a few generations down the line. Which just seems crazy to me.

> How do I not slide back like 10 feet on an uphill stop when engaging the clutch?
When you get a feel for the clutch/throttle, you let it out just enough to engage while simultaneously letting off the brake and giving it a little bit of gas. Once you know your car well, it's not that big of a deal.

>Also when braking you always shift into manual before doing so, right?
It's always in manual, faggot

blip + synchros is enough so long as you don't ram it in super hard.

>> How do I not slide back like 10 feet on an uphill stop when engaging the clutch?
>When you get a feel for the clutch/throttle, you let it out just enough to engage while simultaneously letting off the brake and giving it a little bit of gas. Once you know your car well, it's not that big of a deal.
Ok
>>Also when braking you always shift into manual before doing so, right?
>It's always in manual, faggot
I'm retarded, meant neutral

It's a toyota

Condensation can collect near the A/C evaporator in the ventilation system, and various molds/funguses can grow in those conditions, especially if the car never gets hot enough to fully dry it out, or if the drain hose under the car is plugged. That's usually the cause of musty-smelling A/C in a car.

You can get a product like image related, and spray it into the A/C inlet to clean it up some. This stuff is part #760 at autozone, half of the year it's in back with the Summer display garbage and no one in the store is ever aware that they carry it.

> How do I not slide back like 10 feet on an uphill stop when engaging the clutch?
image related

>Also when braking you always shift into manual before doing so, right?
So long as you step on the clutch or put it neutral before you are going slow enough to stall the engine, it 100% does not matter what you do.

>>>Also when braking you always shift into manual before doing so, right?
>>It's always in manual, faggot
>I'm retarded, meant neutral
No you do not. Try not to shift into neutral unless you have to brake hard and slow down really fast.

>How do I not slide back like 10 feet on an uphill stop when engaging the clutch?
If it's really steep use the handbreak. In fact, just use the hand break any time you're worried about rolling back. When you get use to driving manual you'll use it less and less.

>Also when braking you always shift into neutral before doing so, right?
No. If you take the car out of gear you are no longer in full control of the car and will fail your driving test.
Breaking is much the same as an auto
>Take foot off accelerator
>put foot on break
>when revs get low enough, change down gear, while still using the break if necessary
If you are breaking really hard you may need to skip gears. If you are emergency breaking then slam your foot on the break and clutch.

Out.

Looking for a sports car, something that looks cool and is fun to drive.

Requirements:
-under 10k to obtain
-reasonably inexpensive and easy to keep running (meaning, replacement components are highly available, components are reasonably reliable, and jobs can be trackeled with only intermediate skills and intermediate access to specialized tools.)

What would you recommend?

I see that accelerator pedal has an extension, is that necessary or does it just ease the movement? I have size 11 shoes if that matters.

So I can break from third or whatever, but then I have to downshift into 2nd and then 1st as I'm in the braking process?

>>How do I not slide back like 10 feet on an uphill stop when engaging the clutch?
>If it's really steep use the handbreak. In fact, just use the hand break any time you're worried about rolling back. When you get use to driving manual you'll use it less and less.
Ok. Disengage the handbrake after the car would normally start moving?
>>Also when braking you always shift into neutral before doing so, right?
>No. If you take the car out of gear you are no longer in full control of the car and will fail your driving test.
Well shit, good to know
>Breaking is much the same as an auto
>>Take foot off accelerator
>>put foot on break
>>when revs get low enough, change down gear, while still using the break if necessary
So I can have the break peddle depressed and switch gears, just not the gas. Got it.
>If you are breaking really hard you may need to skip gears. If you are emergency breaking then slam your foot on the break and clutch.
Ok. Does that emergency brake wear down anything?

>So I can break from third or whatever, but then I have to downshift into 2nd and then 1st as I'm in the braking process?
You can skip a gear if you're braking hard. You'll get a feel for it over time as you practice.

>Ok. Does that emergency brake wear down anything?
He's not talking about the parking brake.

>Ok. Disengage the handbrake after the car would normally start moving?
What you want to do is
>stop on hill
>handbreak on
>take foot off break
>slowly bring out clutch to the 'biting; point and give a little gas, you'll feel the car want to move forwards
>release handbreak, continue to release clutch and give more gas as needed
If you have done it right you should be able to hold the car stationary with the clutch and accelerator, but you shouldn't do that for long as it will cause wear.
You really should watch a video on this or get someone to teach you.

>So I can have the break peddle depressed and switch gears, just not the gas. Got it.
Yes, honestly I used to be scared of taking my foot off the accelerator when I first started driving manual. I thought the car would just stall right away, but you don't have to worry about that. When you're moving, it is pretty difficult to accidentally stall, you'll probably only stall when trying to take off.

>Ok. Does that emergency brake wear down anything?
Only your breaks really, but it's not like you'll be breaking because of an emergency every day.

Sounds good, thanks a lot guys. I'll go practice this stuff tomorrow.

After you get all that down pat you should learn to rev-match on down shifts.
Not something you need to worry about now, but it'll make down shifts as smooth as butter and sounds cool too.

Perfect, I was just wondering how to make the shifts less lurchy.

Especially downshifts.

I hear a short duration whirling sound from my car when I let go of the acceletator. My car don't have turbo. Is it from the CVT? Don't make fun of my transmission pls.

How do you get rid of key scratches off of a dark grey car?

Giving myself the ol' bumparoo

I have a 2003 Altima, 120k miles, still runs but needs a new transmission and radiator so 4k in repairs. How much can I sell it for? I would take 1k happily.

the answer is always miata

Mazda Miata, NA or NB
Honda Civic hatch

Why is there always this unoriginal comment?

My car vibrates really badly when my car is stopped. I found if I shift it into neutral or park the vibration stops. I decided to test it out some more to get more info and found out if I shift into reverse it still vibrates. What the fuck could it be? I've never heard of anybody having a problem like this before so I'm completely stumped.

Are tire stickers rice?
I have a newer black mustang gt and keep thinking about getting big red 'GENERAL' stickers for the tires (they're general g-max as-03 tires).

Who's mustang is this? I know I've seen that same blue paint with yellow continental letters on the road before.

Transmission mounts or engine mounts?

I like the Miata, and will keep my eye out. Anything else on the table?

How does C4 Corvette rank up?

Wait I take that back, sounds like something with the torque converter maybe?

This thread's the more active one it seems.

So I wanna buy a C4 Vette since they're at their cheapest now and I want something that'll be fun without too much work to be put into it. Unfortunately, my area is filled with jews and boomers, so picking are slim unless I wanna pay out the ass. Most of the cheap and decent ones are automagics, and so far I've found only one manual.

The problems are basically:
A: I've never driven and manual and don't know if I want to kill this one's tranny learning
B: Most of my driving's gonna be stop and go traffic since I'm gonna daily this thing

I'm aiming specifically for 85-89 because of the interior, even is the engine isn't as nice as the later models. As a result, if I get the only manual, not only will I pay 9 grand instead of 5-6, it'll also be the 4 speed instead of a 6. Is it really worth the extra cash to shell out for the manual, especially given my usual driving route?

Pussy juice.

Dunno, I pulled the pic from google

I'd say unless it's a zr1, go with the automatic. Performance will be nearly identical daily driving, unless you plan to take it to the track, in which case spring for a manual.

You will not fuck the transmission up unless you're straight up retarded. Get a manual, because once you learn to drive it, you'll hate yourself for buying the automatic