QTDDTOTT

I think the demon only had the double scoop hood. STandard Dart has those same headlights.

Few easy steps, that I learned on:
Step 1, Car that is manual
Step 2, relatively open area
Step 3, drive until you get the hang of it.
I learned when I was 14, it was easy.

What makes a rally car, a rally car.

full detail please.

I was looking at pics of this Z31 that I've been bothering this board with for a while and noticed what looks like a bent bit here among some undercarriage photos, is this a serious issue? What exactly am I even looking at here?

Link to the car with all the other photos (it's near the bottom of the list):
dustyoldcars.com/1985-Nissan-300ZX-Runs-Drives-Body-Interior-Excellent-Season-Ready-Nashua,-NH-03063/5543396

thanks guys. google images confirm some year of demon

I am completely useless when it comes to anything electrical.

How does the ignition system on a typical carbureted emissions delete vehicle work?

If I gave you a car that had everything ready to go but not a single wire under the hood (minus spark plug wires, and the hotline to the starter) what all would you need to get it to fire?

When I first start (seemingly before the engine warms up), it's hard to shift into second gear. It almost always requires grinding/forcing. Once the engine is warm, though, it shifts just as smoothly as any other gear. It's a 1981 BMW E21 if that helps, any ideas?

The Air Bag light in my 2003 Audi TT has come on and won't go off.
My mechanics away for the next week or so on holiday so I can't take it to him to scan it. (don't have my own reader)
Does anyone know what it could possibly be?
I was reading that it's a common thing to happen from either a couple wires under the seats or even temperature.
I can't use the horn either so I'm worried that's connected to this issue.
Can anyone give me any advice?

Let the car warm up before driving it.

Had the same issue on my 02 passat 1.8t. You have to take it to audi/vw and have them turn it off by computer. Its some bullshit. DO NOT PAY FOR ANYTHING NOT EVEN HAVING THE ECU CLEARED.

well, gearboxes need heat too.
try changing fluid.
you can get high mileage fluids.

have you looked under the seats?

>DO NOT PAY FOR ANYTHING NOT EVEN HAVING THE ECU CLEARED.
I really don't want to but every mechanic and dealership around me charges a shitload for any job no matter how big or small.

I've tried pushing the wires together but since I don't have the scanner thing I can't reset it to see if that's fixed the problem.
I still can't use the horn though so I'm thinking it's not the wires under the seats.

Is it really that simple? I live in California. It pretty much stays between 60 to 80 F all year. It just seems abnormal since I've never had any problem on any other manual car.

Would it be okay to just keep driving the car even with the Air Bag light on?
The only risk is them not deploying during a crash right?
It couldn't cause any other issues could it?

let
the
car
warm
up

well the alternative is to get a rebuild kit and well.. rebuild it.

correct, airbag light on just means they won't deploy in a crash. it's not the end of the world.
provided you don't crash ofc

It takes ten minutes, so unfortunately I can't just let it idle for five to ten minutes every time after I start it.

Thanks. I'll try changing the transmission fluid first.

just skip 2nd gear

>provided you don't crash ofc
Wish me luck then.

Almost tempted to disconnect the light itself just to get it off the dash.

I don't know if you can clear it with a ebay scantool but that might work
cheaper to buy your own so you can use it again in future

I'm seeing people mention something called Vag Com a lot in the other forum posts about Audis
with Air Bag lights on.
Not too sure if it's a scanner or program or what but that's what everyone recommends.

Where is the line between a shitbox and a gud car? I'm pretty sure my car is a shitbox but how do you know the difference? What is the bare minimum for your car to be gud?

FYI Ammonia is the same shit, different bottle (little less water).

everyone's got their own opinion on that to be honest.

Whats something decently cheap (under $10k) and reliable that would be good for a college student? Preferably manual.

Trying to get away from my miata

Is wrapping a car worth it? Most google searches for pricing and durability is quite dated i.e. a 3k job will last 2 years. Has the technology for wrapping and materials improved lately? What's your experience?

Pic related, I want to wrap it green or white.

Don't do it. It's not worth it.
Also don't for a second consider plastidip.

Found a guy on Craigslist (I know, CRAIGSLIST) that will do it for 1500 and has pics of his work.
Have you had a car wrapped before?

lol dumb americans

It's really not worth it man. Unless you're doing something interesting with it or your car is a show car don't waste the money.

When I open engine oil cap, I can clearly smell petrol from it, even from the cap itself. I changed the oil a month ago and didn't smell like anything, and the dipstick doesn't smell either. Is it dangerous?
t. car illiterate

>Paying money to learn manual
Nigga pls

>have sohc engine
>rocker arms worn the fuck damn near completely through
>look for replacements
>tons of used ones worn to the limit for sale
apparently this is a common problem; can anyone tell me what I can do about this? ive already got some nos rockers ordered

does it have something to do with the oil? I dont really want to find out how few miles it takes for these to wear out completely

Usually it happens from a lack of adjusting over the service life of the rockers.
Older M10 and M30 powered BMWs were notorious for this. Avoid adjusting your valves for too long and the adjustable eccentrics form a flat spot that's then impossible to adjust out, and continue to sound like a sewing machine until it's rebuilt.

Dunno if this is the cause in your case, but it may be helpful.

I'll definitely be keeping a close eye
on it once it gets running. this engine has some pretty convenient access covers

the thing that bothers me is that there's one part straight from camshaft to valve, and the rocker is $50 a piece and if it gets worn out in 2000mi then that shit is unnacceptable. I'm reading about oils and not surprised to find that crucial lubrication components have been phased out of standard oils; so far ive read about zinc additives and specifically made break-in oils. do you know if there is there any reason to not use break in oils exclusively? they don't seem expensive or anything

Why do people shit on Dodge so much?

Occasionally when I accelerate really hard, at around 3k to 5k RPM, it feels like power cuts out for like a quarter of a second

I'm not sure if I think I'm feeling it, I'm unconsciously backing off the throttle, or if it's actually happening because if I concentrate on how it accelerates, I don't feel it but if I feel it if I'm not concentrating on trying to feel it

I'm 99.9998% sure it has VVT if that makes a difference.

Because they made some notoriously horrible shitboxes, even more so with Daimler

So that doesn't mean all of their cars are shit, right?

Corolla.

Automatic? If right after that slight pause you feel it rev up and accelerate harder, it could just be down shifting, which is normal.

It's a manual

I know that that can describe a problem one might have with carburetors, but I doubt yours is carbed. is it an older vehicle? maybe run a fuel system cleaner through it

It's a 2009, but it has about 120k miles on it

WPC treatment. basically nano-shotpeening

>Vag Com
sounds like a porn site to me.

Gonna say it's a fuel delivery issue, possibly spark breakdown.

How would I go about remedying this?
You mentioned a fuel system cleaner. Would replacing the fuel filter also help? The service history on the car is a bit vague at some points so I don't know when the filter was last replaced, or even if it has ever been replaced.

Not necessarily, old K Chryslers, especially the intercooled turbo ones are bomb proof. The chassis will rust away in your lifetime but the engine is immortal

Maybe it's just got a torque curve like the toyobaru

Best engine swap 1988 supra?

LS1

I am looking to buy either a mid-2000s civic or accord for a daily driver. Can anyone explain the key differences between the two that set them apart? Any information is appreciated.

I had the same issue on my 01 Jetta. I bought VCDS-lite for 99 dollars and a USB to OBD-II cable for $20. I don't recall what the exact code was but it was something under my seat. I checked the connections and gave them a push just to make sure they were seated correctly, then I cleared the code. The light hasn't come back on, so I'm assuming it's fixed. This was a few months ago.

I also installed a new(used) instrument cluster and adapted my key to it. Considering it costs about 100 bucks to adapt a key at a locksmith and probably some ridiculous amount at a dealership for the air bag thing, I'd say buying the software was a smart move. I've scanned a couple check engine lights for known issues (I have a broken coil pack and broken MAF connector) as well which comes in handy since you avoid having to go to vatozone or some shop for a scan and have to interact with their smug asses when they tell you what the code is.

am i a retard for wanting to sell my 3 series and just lease a brand new car?

What does WAT stand for? : |

l'm literally serious. l'm seriously literal.

fit some forged ones

yes

Depends, if you're going to lease a car that is cheaper to maintain then not really

otherwise, yes

nothing really

WAT automotive Technologies

nothing, it is literally 'what'

depends how poor you are
if you buy a new car it'll lose thousands per year so it makes no difference
basically you need to be honest with yourself and decide whether or not you should be spending that money on a car

WAT automotive technologies is a motorsport company that has a yuge history in racing developments and making fast speed

Is the engine working with the car still, enough to charge the battery?

it means "lurk moar"

check your fuel lines, filter and pump.
if you can't smell britbong petrol on the dipstick then it's probably not mixed in the oil sump.
vw-resource.com/gas_oil.html
>hopefully it's just a little oil/gas in your valve cover

Civic is base model with hatchback option and smaller engines, Accord is mid tier sedan that hasn't had hatchbacks since the mid '80s
>both are good, accords usually have bigger engines and mildly nicer interior trim for worse MPGs
>basically the same differences between a corolla and a camry

if the alternator works, it should charge the battery

as a novice driver how do I not drift back and forth in my lane on the highway?

I would say "git gud" but "git not fucking appallingly shit" would be your best bet

posted this in the other thread and got a reply, but i'd like to add some more vehicles to the list (especially cars)
what are some vehicles that come with a stock oil or transmission cooler?
here's my list:
>tranny coolers
>most diesel trucks
>f250s?
>jeep xjs?(only with tow package?)
>2002-2005 BMW 745i
>2002-2005 Land Rover Freelander
>2003-2005 Land Rover Range Rover

>oil coolers
>f250s (6.0 powerstrokes)
>subaru imprezas? (idk which models)
>BMW 335i?

stop driving.

wouldn't a new car need little to no maintenance? for the first 3-4 years at least right

>ITT: no one knows what leasing is or what equity means

yes. There is no reason to lease a new vehicle. get a nice car that's a model year or two old, most of the depreciation will have already set in
>and lurk for a LPG thread

>Maintaining
>a leased vehicle
this post made me dumber. Think of leases as long term rentals- if you drive it like shit you'e going to have to pay, but if you keep it nice

Never is it a good idea to lease. NEVER
>if u buy a new car it'll lose thousands per year
so then you advocate effectively renting a car that will generate no return equity. sounds great.
>if you have the money
this is terrible advice, DON'T FUCKING LEASE EVER even if you're rich

>mfw i see user swerving in his lane

LPG?

How strong of an air compressor is needed to stretch 195x45r15's onto 15x7 rims using the explosive or bike tube method?

pic related, the look I'm looking for

happy birthmas newfag, here you go
archive.4plebs.org/o/search/tripcode/!!9TEWI1TbGdH/page/1/
>the archives of longpost guy; use it wisely

>spoonfeeding
you're part of the problem

so he's basically just some trip fagg/o/t whose dick is stuck down your throat

>not wanting to talk about LPG, the only cool tripfag
no U

Fuck off newfag

tripfags are always fags, regardless of whether they are cool or not

>being this new
wow salty 13 y/o alert

Some 6-800 sand paper will give you a new rubber to wipe your windshield with

High intake snorkel
Weather proof engine accessories
Heavy duty radiators and possibly some auxiliary coolers for the tranny and diff.
Lexan and no glass
Full cage
Heavy duty arms and ball joints
Heavy duty springs and shocks
Better bumpstops
Undoubtedly stripped interior
Navigator in the passenger seat
There's definitely more im missing

Bought a 50cc 2 stroke pocket bike engine for $50 and I wanna see if I can make it run with only off the shelf 91% isopropyl alcohol (and oil of course). I read that ethenol will corrode brass and eat natural rubber, will isopropyl alcohol do the same?

It might.
Find a cheap brass fitting and a cheap natural rubber o-ring or whatever and put them in a glass jar with a lid and fill the jar with isopropyl alcohol.
Leave it for a few days and note the results. Make sure to poke and stretch the rubber

Splendid idea sir user I shall do just that

If you cant stay within your lane whilst sober and fully awake you have bigger issues than being able to drive.

make sure to report back after you've finished this little experiment

I have a set of winter tires I want to replace the valve stems on from regular valves to tpms. If I just break the bead where the valve is will it re seat itself while im inflating it? I don't have an air compressor so I can't do the starting fluid sealing method. Would it be less of a hassle just to suck it up and have a tire shop swap them over?

You're not going to just "break the bead over the valve stem"

Once you break the bead, the tire is off that side of the wheel entirely, so no if you do not have a high pressure air compressor get a shop to do it.

I was going to use the bottle jack and truck frame method so I wouldn't have to pop the entire tire off the wheel

Thanks a lot. I'm on a tight budget right now but once I have the money I think that will be the way to go. Rather than trying to take the car to a mechanic or dealership and risk being ripped off.