QTDDTOT

Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

>Ask questions that are either sensible or stupid or answer to questions if you know em.

Other urls found in this thread:

oregonpca.org/resources/ims-bearing-the-full-story/
cga.ct.gov/2002/rpt/2002-R-0767.htm
twostepsonesticker.com/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

How do you reattach door panels?

Are early 2000's 911's difficult to own and maintain? Should I expect it to constantly breakdown?

Is a S13 240sx with an SR20 or a SW20 MR2 turbo better for boy racer shenanigans

Got non oem stabilizer link. Should i be worried about it being a different size specification if amazon said it fits my car.
Post pic. If plastic its snapnhooknscrew.

anyone know what you should do to break in new tires? they're low profile super sports

I'm buying a car when I go to the US. I'm not a resident and I have no home address in the US. can I still buy a car?

It's a porsche, they're fairly reliable cars compared to others in the same price range. The thing with the Early 2000's 996 911 are the IMS bearings. There's a lot to read on what to do, might as well get started now:

oregonpca.org/resources/ims-bearing-the-full-story/

no, unless yes.
>if you already have a drivers license
get an international drivers license, it basically says that you can use the license from your country. This means you won't have to take a test or take a shortened test on U.S. road laws before you can legally drive.
>you can get them from AAA here, idk where in your country
>they usually look like little books
then get a P.O. box so you can set up insurance and register it with a state, usually the one you'll be buying it in
>shop around, state laws vary widely

>if you don't have a drivers license/ can't get one in your country
you'll have to get one here won't you?
>pretty easy but again varies by state
>my state lets you use a p.o. box on your id as mailing address but you have to carry around a little brown piece of paper with your real residence on it.
>can't buy guns without the brown paper either
>also yours may say something like non-resident
>sources: personal exp and
>cga.ct.gov/2002/rpt/2002-R-0767.htm

Thank you, all that information was really helpful. I'll be in Texas and as far as understand getting things, like insurance, there is a bit easier since they cater for all the people crossing the boarder.

I also know some people that live in Waco and Wichita Falls, so I'll get some local info from them.

>it will be a little bit easier
idk how you're going to get valid insurance or even a drivers license without a SSN, please come back and tell us how it goes
>I am so curious, will it be like special buttfuck rate foreigner insurance?
>even Umberto will have a valid stolen U.S. SSN, he needs it for his illegal job
>also aren't there vehicle inspections in Texas?
>twostepsonesticker.com/

Buying a car? Yes. Registering it and getting the title to the car? Probably not. Doesn't stop the illegal Mexicans from driving though. They find a way.

I've got low profile summer tires. I recently picked up a nail in the outside tread about a half inch in from the sidewall. Every shop says its not repairable, or that they're not willing to do it. I doubt my ability to repair it correctly myself.

So, I've ordered another tire from tire rack. I'm about 1/3 of the way through the tread on my tires all around, and I don't want to buy a new set yet. My question is this: which position do I want to put the new tire in? My front right is what's punctured, it's an FF vehicle.

Thanks.

Fronts wear much much faster than the rears in an FF car so put the two tires with the most tread in the front.

if you don't have symmetrical half-shafts, put it on the shorter CV axle
>this is usually the front left, aka drivers side americunts

can i compete in a honda prelude 2.0?

Yes if its taken care of and slightly moded.
But only against other shitboxes including i4 to v6 muscle cars.

when it comes to brake pads, which is better: metallic/semi-metallic or ceramic? what kind should I use on my Ranger? thanks in advance senpai

depends on price/value and what exactly you want in your brakes...

>do you care about brake dust
>do you often tow/haul stuff with your ranger?
>are you just slapping on pads, or are you going to do a full brake job?

also what is a good brand? should I just get the duralast from vatozone or find something else?

I care about brake dust to an extent
Occasionally haul stuff like lumber etc but never tow anything
just slapping pads on. I might try bleeding and adding fluid and all that, but I'm not sure because I only plan on doing the front brakes for now

What does Honda's V-tech actually do?

it kicks in

I mean honestly if its just the front pads, then I would go with the mid-range brand of whatever your local parts store has, not the cheapest economy shit and not he $120 shit either. Also make sure to grease caliper pins. I can't remember on rangers they are floating right?

I'm absolute normie with pretty much no knowledge of cars except what some of the basic parts do and how to drive one.

What's the best way to go about learning more about cars and how they operate?

Its vvt. Glorified vvt just like skyactive vvt.
Vtec is older early vvt though. Vvt gives higher acceleration through quick rpm gains. Vvt stands for variable valve timing. Vvt also is in nearly everything made after the 90s.

this

or just order like motorcraft ones off rockauto for cheap as shit...stock pads...

This is wrong. VTEC is not VVT.

VVT adjusts cam duration for optimal performance across the rev range. VTEC is variable valve lift, which kicks in at a certain RPM and acts as a secondary cam profile which opens the poppet valves on the cylinders a larger amount to flow more air and fuel into the cylinder at higher RPMS for increased efficiency and power.

>increased efficiency and power
pick one

Own a shitbox that breaks all the time and forces you to fix it.

Alternatively start by doing basic maintenance on your car. Brakes, oil changes, etc. Shit stupid grease monkeys can do. Then if you ever wonder what X is on your car google it.

You just build the knowledge over time. Cars are complicated machines with numerous parts. For parts like differentials and gearboxes my best suggestion for learning resources would be those old 1930s training videos on youtube. They do an absolutely amazing job showing you the working principle behind the part/setup and show you exactly how they work in an actual car.

Whats the cheapest functional wideband o2 sensor w/ gauge out there? And then whats the nicest looking one?

user your description of vvt sounds more like vvt-i.
Its only efficiency.

Opinions on Eclipse GSX 1999?

Seeing how shitbox/poorfag/cheap cars of today are typically 90's models, is it true that it 10 years poorfags like myself will drive 00's models, and if so, what cars in particular are going to age well(?) enough to fulfill that role that 95 Civics etc fill today?

I have a 2003 C4S. Pretty reliable, some stupid quirks, but nothing that will prevent the car from running and driving reliably.
However, if you've never owned a RR/MR car, this would be a bit of a leap. Maybe get a shitbox AW11 first to familiarize yourself with the platform so you don't hurt yourself/someone else.

what's the difference between the Alfa Romeo 4c and the 4c spider? The website doesn't tell me

spödër has no rööf

>Rainy day
>Manual car
>Need to reverse uphill park the car at an elevated parking lot
>Tire slips
>Clutch slips
>Can't move backwards up
I ended up doing a 3-point turn and forwarded parked the car in the lot. But what is the proper way to reverse on a uphill on a rainy day and overcome slip?

is having only three main bearings per four connecting rods a death touch ?
more modern engines have five mains
and presumably a little less crank flex at high rpm

I got a ticket the other day and on the ticket it says I was driving a Nissan Titan, but I was in a D21. Can I use this to get out of it at all?

depends if there are any other witnesses or circumstances
also if you can leave reasonable doubt as to where you were at the time

my bro crashed his Austin mini on a rainy day
and although the police officer listed the vehicle as an Leyland truck
because the crash was thought to be the result of reckless driving he could not get out of the ticket

The ticket was for ignoring a construction zone sign and using a closed road, two cops found me and my friend parked up there.

How does one actually go about mixing oil with their fuel in their RX-8?

sounds damnable
only in cases of parking fines have I heard of poor signage being used as a defence
and even if it can be shown that the signage was poorly placed or otherwise obscure they might argue ignorance of the law is no excuse

outcome will depend on the discretion of the officers and court
luck might give you only a warning and a reduced fine

Would you ever go alone to a Craigslist seller? Don't have any ways of getting out to long commutes aside from bus and I'm in desperate need of a car

paranoia tells me that a set pick up point could be used to ambush you if they insisted on cash

s13 unless you like crashing and dying

I wouldn't, personally. But what you do is up to your own paranoia level. Mine is off the charts.

If I had to do it alone and the seller wasn't from a good neighborhood and/or he seemed sketchy I would meet at my bank, during open business hours, I would get a cashiers check / cash and do the exchange there in the building. Title transfer, bill of sale, and cash to hand.

Does 24hrs LeMans means they race around the track for a full 24 hours?

lol? yes

yeah they're floating
thanks senpai
one more question: is it necessary to crack the bleeder valve when I compress the caliper piston or would I be alright if I just slapped the pads in and greased the pins?

WTF that's cool. Thanks.

goodbye fuel pump.

spiders are always convertibles in italy.

spider has no roof. the normal one does.

>Eclipse GSX 1999
depends

a new like new, mint one is a 10/10 car (if you don't buy into the drivetrain meme).

2 littre turbo with 220 bhp and 0-60 in 6.5 seconds makes it stupidly fast for the price. it's certainly the best bang for buck.

the biggest downsides are the fact that finding one that hasn't been fucked to the ground by poor mods and "lol no maintence" is like finding a double rainbow.

you can probably leave most miatas in the dust allready.

honestly, racing depends more on the driver than the car most of the times.

What is the most reliable model and year for BMW?

I bought a brand new Chevy Sonic and have questions about engine break-in.
Is any of it necessary on today's cars? Should I get my first oil change at 1000mi? Thanks.

Buying my first car in a month
And of course I want something reliable, with good mileage and fun to drive.
>up to 12000€
Yuropoor btw

Why didn't McLaren make a car with a centre-driver seated position after the F1?

Is it uncouth to daily a classic? Even one that's not restomodded/engineswapped?

it's impractical in all the ways possible

Optimal way to drive?

E.G. When do I put my foot on the gas for optimal gas efficiency?

jus b ur self

keep up the heel-toe game and you're golden

Complete noob question: I bought a bike and manual says to use "any fuel with at least 87 octane rating".

Does that mean if pic related are my options, I could put anything except diesel and LPG in it?

If there's some leftover fuel of a different octane rating in the tank, will I be kill?

>87 octane rating
That means 97 for yuro, so 3rd option in pic
You wont be kill, but it wont be as efficient and have the same power output.
You can put a lesser quality fuel but only if you dont have other options.

This weekend I realised my front tires look a little like pic related (not as bad, but they're dry/cracked as fuck)

How badly should I replace them and should I just replace all four?

I've waded a bit deeper into the manual and noticed the English part says "min. 87 R+M" while the German one says "min 91, Forschungsmethode".

I guess I'll ask an attendant when there.

You can use a caliper compressor or a table clamp to push the pistons in, no bleeder crack needed

If they are dry rotting, that means they are also hard, which means significantly less traction.

Replace all four.

Based on the discoloration of my headers, how is the performance of my engine?

Note how cylinders 4 and 3 are making their tubes darker than 2 and 1.

will do, thanks!

Probably not necessary on a commuter, but does still have some effect (possibly 1-2 extra MPGs if done properly).

I would change the factory oil early, but again, minimal reward.

Maybe misfiring?

Whoa those are some nice headers user

I'm going to detail my car today. I've got
>Meguiar's Gold Class Wash
>Mother's Claybar kit
>no polish
>Turtlewax Hard Shell
>a bunch of microfiber towels
>2 buckets
>a hose

Anything I should add or subtract? Also any polish? I was thinking Meguiar's Ultimate Polish but you tell me.

It's what 50 bucks can get ya

nice trips btw

What color is it?

Do you have a buffer?

If no buffer I suggest a high-grit polish for small scratches in the paint, going over the whole car by hand with it won't really do much. If you have a buffer and are really autistic about it but paint isn't too bad, I'd go with a meguiars polishing compound, buff the whole car, and then go across it with meguiar's mirror glaze.

If the paint is really scratched up I'd use Meguiar's rubbing compound prior to polishing.

I'm going to a used car dealership to get -buttraped- my first car

I plan on paying with cash, should I mention that fact upfront or wait until the guy brings it up?

Also I plan on having a mechanic check it out before I buy. Is this standard procedure or will they give me shit for it? And do they just let me drive it there or what?

>What color is it?
Black
>Do you have a buffer?
Nope
>If no buffer I suggest a high-grit polish for small scratches in the paint, going over the whole car by hand with it won't really do much. If you have a buffer and are really autistic about it but paint isn't too bad, I'd go with a meguiars polishing compound, buff the whole car, and then go across it with meguiar's mirror glaze.
I was thinking to get a medium light polish and just kinda do the whole car as a prep for the wax. Is that wrong?
>If the paint is really scratched up I'd use Meguiar's rubbing compound prior to polishing.
It's more or less okay.

*also, would you say my hood is matte? That means I shouldn't claybar or polish on it, right?

Just drive on them don't do anything ballsy for the first hundred miles or so since it has releasing agent still on them

Hey, so I live in New York State and I own two cars - one for winter and the other for summer driving. The past three years I've transferred the plates between the two cars, and just recently I was told that when I move plates, the old car's inspection sticker becomes invalid. Is this true?

Also, winter car's inspection is due every Nov., while the summer car's sticker is every July. This year I've been late and just today got the papers, so the transfer will be done later this week. My concern is the inspection sticker - is it still good, or do I need to go get a new one immediately?

Accelerate quickly with out being dangerous, and get to a speed that takes advantage of the torque band.

Any bmw before the introduction of the e36

They switch drivers out some cars have up to 4 drivers

Ask an rx8 forum, they use 2stroke oil.

00s civics

Your hood doesn't have any clearcoat on it. I wouldn't touch it.

As for the rest of the car, I'd suggest Turtle Wax's black box. it should do everything you need it to in terms of detailing your car aside from the claybar.

Opinions on a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT?

Oh, so just wash the hood and leave it be?

Yep.

I drive a manual E46 330ci. During firm acceleration (3/4 throttle) under about 2K RPM the car seems to bog down a little bit. Is this a clutch problem? What's going on? It accelerates just fine past 2K under hard acceleration.

Great, thanks for the help user!

My truck drives nicely but it's 27 years old now and I desire something different to drive but all I can afford are shitboxes.

How can I quench this thirst? This thirst for an 80s speed demon mobile.

>Buy SA22 RX7
>Add boost
>Go fwoosh
>Blow apex seals
>Rebuild in afternoon
>add more boost
>Go fwoosher

>about to sell '99 wrangler for 7k
>have 15k total budget for new/used car
What do I buy Veeky Forums?

Rx7 at shitbox prices.
Boost in a box of poop.

I bought a 95 NA from a guy who said he switched from conventional to synthetic about a year ago, same weight. Can I switch back to conventional or is there no point? I've heard that once you go synth, you can't go back.