How to deal with Dealers thread.
Post tips / experiences you've had with beating the jew.
For example, when the dealer calls you back with an improved offer hang up and say, "I'm about to test drive, I'll call you back." This makes them very anxious.
Look out for the 4square method, look it up. They'll try to fuck you with this.
When do you make your offer? Immediately after test driving, on your way out, or a day later over the phone?
I don't have the liberty of doing these things. When you live in buttfuck nowhere anything good for a decent price gets snatched up. I've had cars get sold out from under me when I'm trying to play cool and uninterested several times now.
>/pol/ ruins yet another board
So you go in and buy, no haggling?
You should probably buy private then
You tell them a reasonable price that you don not want to go over after tax.
If they dont want to agree, leave and go to another dealer. do this for all the dealers in your area, and then wait for a call back on one of them agreeing to it.
>go to see new car
>haggle with the dealer
>he goes back and forth to "manager" (probably just taking a piss each time)
>getting tired
>he sits down with his "best offer". He has the sales doc all filled out except the pricing
>ask him to look at it
>I take it, write "$30,000" on the very bottom line of the sale document. This is about $6K less than his "best" price (which was not out the door price either)
>hand him a check for $30,000 made out to dealership (but not signed)
>tell him I don't care how he gets to the $30K number. either make it happen or not.
>tell him to let me know if it's acceptable
>comes back from "manager", shakes my hand and we have a deal
Thats pretty alpha, user. What car was it?
What is the best way to negotiate a price? A car I want is listed at 7600, KBB says 6800, do I low ball the 7600 or thr KBB price, and by how much? How do I keep it realistic?
More or less, if it's a good price. Depends on the dealer. Private deals are usually the better choice, yeah.
Lie. You lie your assistance off. Feel bad about lying? You need to remember you're buying a liability. A liability that depreciates the moment you leave with it.
"But a car takes you to work so you can make money." Your job is the asset, not the car. The only time your car is an asset, is if it makes you money.
So what do you lie about? Everything. "The guy from the X dealership has a different yet equally appealing car with the same price tag, but they were willing to go down to this much."
They'll argue that it's a different car. So you say "that car is also my first choice. I left them to keep my options open. But, seeing as they're more willing to come down on their price, I'll go back."
They've probably heard this all before, so that was more of an example. But, try to find as many excuses as to why you don't think this purchase is for you. For example, the steering wheel doesn't tilt, and you're "too short." Explain that you're either too close to the wheel, or too far from the pedals to use the vehicle safely. It's not a logical argument, but if the dealer is going after your emotions, you go right back at him.
>/pol/ ruins yet another board
Not true, it's just that car hobbyists are more exposed to shady dealings than the average normie.
How to haggle at small dealership? Honestly i might as well pay sticker price if it's on the road price, fine wanna deal with bullshit. But idk ive never done this before. Also the car is 9000$, can i just pay cash upfront?
Now, lying is a good way to get a deal. But if you want a better deal, and not afraid of a little savagery, it'll involve more effort. For this trick to work, you need to visit at least 2 dealerships with identical cars you're looking at.
At the first dealership, you say: "I know you want to sell me this car, but I'm wanting to check out the next dealership, they have this car as well. I'll take your card, and go to the second dealership. They'll call you asking you if you were willing to go down to an unspecified amount. If you say yes, I'll come back and buy the car."
Don't give the first dealership a price you want to get down to, being there gives them the advantage. Make the dealerships fight for you, not at you. This is the real art of trolling.
Go to the second dealership, talk to the sales rep and say: "the guy at the first dealership was willing to take 10,000 off the sticker price. I know you don't believe me, so here's his card. You have two options, beat his offer, or call him asking if it's real. He'll say yes, and he'll have sold a car."
On the off chance the second dealer call the first, and the first dealer says no over the phone, attack his character. Tell him the next time he talks to his manager, it should be to turn in his two week notice because he's not in the business to sell cars. Talk to the second dealer to see if you can meet that magical number, if not, move on and try again at two other dealerships.
If you're willing to pay cash, there's no issue. You're buying at the price they're offering, minus tax and warranty.
Don't feel bad for haggling at a small dealership, but if it's really a mom and pop shop, I would be fairer on the haggling, but it's perfectly reasonable to do so. The big box stores require ruthlessness.
So how much do you want to initially lowball the sticker price? And if you're financing some but not all of the amount is it best to do a check for the down payment or can I just use a debit card?
Just tell him you'll give him 6000, if he refuses, leave
This is a mad genius level post
A fiesta st msrp is like 22k brand new. Can you haggle with ford is it one of those no haggle places?
Way to go OP, you've just helped out a ton of us by putting up this thread.
Now, we have to come together and make a general to inform anons on how to beat these assholes dealerships
Of course you can haggle it. Do you think the dealership paid 22000 dollars for it? Do you think they are willing to sell it at cost?
Wew lad nice get
How much can you possibly haggle on something like a manual 2017 Civic hatch? It's brand fucking new, they have no reason to come down do they?
claiming this get for fuck dealerships and car salesmen
Except for Longpost Guy
...
They sell everything 15% more expensive than it has to be
We've just made a game changer Veeky Forums
You can move at least 10% or more on brand new cars. They'll try to pull the "its in demand" which is bullshit because they're just coming out. They have a huge profit margin on new cars, you can haggle a lot.
My advice with driving new cars is nitpick everything during the test drive. Test drive multiple times between multiple dealerships because a 15 minute car ride will NOT tell you everything about the car in question.
If they mention some shit about a warranty and they say "its got a 10 year warranty" call them on it and say "is it bumper to bumper?" or something like that because that 10 year warranty is only on the power train which never fucking breaks.
When talking about the car or negotiating in general NEVER talk about what you need, what you can afford. Only talk about what you want and what price you wanna pay for it. Don't give them any ammo and don't fall for the stupid fucking 4 square shit because they'll ask you shit about "what you can afford" thats not what you're here to talk about you're here to talk about the fucking car.
One way to get a clue on what the price is on a new car is look at consumer reports. Find out what other people paid for their car then when going to the dealership always bid below that average price paid and work your way up in SMALL increments. Don't move in large chunks because then they're more willing to just tell you "no" because they know you'll come up. Start bidding close to the price the dealership paid then work your way up slowly.
I wouldn't personally buy into any extra warranties unless its a rather higher end car. Understand what your warranty covers and what you're getting into because there are many things in a warranty that are specifically excluded. Don't fall for the stupid shit like "we'll throw oil changes for the first year" because thats not worth it ever.
Wow this is incredibly helpful, thank you. I've screenshotted it for future generations.
Now I know why my Jewish dad drives a Lamborghini. Everyone on Veeky Forums are dumb as fuck!!!!
More on negotiating; Set a certain specification for what YOU want to pay and stick to it as best you can. If a dealership doesn't want to play ball then just get up and leave. If they want to make a car sale, they have a copy of your license and they'll give you a phone call with an offer. If they don't call you, fuck them and go find someone else. They should be at your whim, you shouldn't be at theirs, don't think about their wants and needs thats not your business.
I wouldn't buy the following of ANY warranty
>paint coverage
this is a shit warranty that will specifically cover scratches but will not cover anything to do with things like keyed cars, dents with scratches, and a plethora of other things that you will ACTUALLY want fixed.
Also about paint protection. They'll make up this nonsense about how "bugs hitting your clear coat can eat away at it because its so acidic" is fucking bullshit. Your clear coat will not dissolve under those conditions, its a fucking lie.
>wheel protection
They'll try to tell you this lie that your wheels are aluminum and aluminum bends super easy and if it bends too much your car's tire won't seal or you'll have to shell out 400+ dollars for a new rim. Its fucking bullshit. Unless you've got some 18'' wheel on a thin tire would something like a pothole EVER cause you damage to your car. They'll probably specifically and only cover "road obstacles" and then specifically not include "objects like tree branches" or "offroads" or other things that'll actually fuck your wheel. Your Wheel, tire and suspension are all specifically designed to absorb these minor and major blows to your car like potholes are. Its extremely unlikely that your wheel will EVER receive any damage in these events.
>Car Interior warranties
I may consider a warranty on my interior but ONLY if it specifically covers the seats and their fabric/leather, otherwise, don't buy these at all. Look out for specific exclusions.
While you're here, any advice on if they *don't* have the model / trim I'm looking for?
From what I've found looking through many dealers' inventory, manual civic hatches are pretty rare right now. How do I get the exact trim / specs I want if they aren't on any nearby lot?
that's very offensive and anti semitic
One more thing with negotiating. Don't be afraid to fib, bullshit, or lie yourself. Don't be afraid to say "Oh that dealership over there was offering me x, y, z on it." because its a good way to get into a good price.
One last thing about warranties or signing in general. READ FUCKING EVERYTHING. Bring a friend to help read it with you, read it aloud so you fully understand what it says. You should understand every part of what you're buying, what you're getting and what you're going to be driving away in.
Also ASK TONS OF QUESTIONS, question everything. Go ahead and ask the same questions more than once and if the dealer talking to you gives you a different answer or avoids the question he's bullshitting you, he thinks you're stupid and hes wasting your time.
One last piece of advice, BRING A CALCULATOR. Not only is this good for doing the math yourself on payments or a price in general but it makes a dealer less likely to bullshit you or make up numbers. Its not unheard of for a dealer to tell you a price then go write you up for a similar looking number just to fuck you. Be very explicit and straight forward with numbers. You could say "I'm probably gonna put 3000 dollars down" then he might say "ok lemme go run those numbers" he'll do his bullshit where he walks into the back and then he'll come out with a monthly payment. CHECK THAT NUMBER, multiply it by the number of months on your loan and see if they add up to the price you're asking to pay. I encountered this penomena once where I said I'd be putting 8000 dollars down on my new car, the dealer then handed me back a monthly payment that was completely wrong and kept insisting that it was correct. I used my phone's calculator and did the math and proved him right to his face he was bullshitting me.
If you're buying new they can order it for you. Make sure you negotiate a price first, get it in writing for the specific type of car.. If they don't have the model they can get it for you.
I would rather just find a dealership with my particular flavor, model, bells and whistles combo that I want than go through the hassle of getting a specific model ordered.
That stick shift shouldn't be difficult to acquire btw, its not unheard of they just don't put them on the lot because a lot of people don't buy them. IIRC a big dealership should have a huge stock of cars with all sorts of different flavors and models because of leasing. When people lease they usually want their fancy flavor and dealerships try to have it all. Every sale they can make they'll make it
I noticed that sometimes a dealership will mark up cars in the hopes that in negotiation you bring them down to a base level. Try not to fall for this because I have a dealership in my area that has marked up all their brand new subaru's by 3000 dollars over MSRP that subaru.com is offering. This doesn't make sense at all but stupid people will negotiate starting at that inflated price and end up driving off the lot paying sticker price unknowingly.
That's straight alpha as fuck, user. Awesome, I'll remember that.
Holy fuck how do you all come up with this shit
woooow stop virtue signalling you FAG
better have been a nice car m8
I need you to come to the dealership with me and please buy me a car I don't have the balls to do something this godly
>potholes can't bend wheels.
Your ignorant.
>how to deal with dealers
Fucking DON'T.
Buy from private sellers. If the car you want is more than the amount in your bank account, take out a loan with a credit union to pay the seller the total up front. They have better rates if you can prove you're using it for an auto purchase and not stupid shit like a home theater setup. Even the least trustworthy private sellers are still better than dealers, because they're usually just ignorant of the car's problems and not trying to actively deceive you.
does a tiny wholesale lot count as a dealer? those look easier to manipulate
didn't say they couldn't I'm saying the likely hood of hitting a pothole so big and your car's massive travel time in its suspension and wheel base itself is so stupidly unlikely its not worth paying the extra 600 dollars for such a fucking warranty. Seriously normally we aren't talking about a sports car with an 18'' tire with a really thin tire. I bet you would damage a car that way. but normal sedans, SUV's aren't bound to have this problem
I think the margins on wholesales are thinner they might not be willing to negotiate
they don't make shit, these small businesses ache for customers
You're telling that to a mechanic. I've replaced plenty of wheels fucked by potholes. And seen a shit ton more bent but not totally fucked. It doesn't take much to bend an alum wheel.
well what kind of wheels do you normally service that often get fucked by pot holes?
All shapes, sizes and materials. Potholes don't care. You must live somewhere that doesn't have very many of them. I live in the northeast.
Can confirm, went into a pothole going 30ish in my Malibu and that hole ate my fucking rim, completely bent it and made a massive gaping gap so my tire went flat. Had to have the rim welded back
>aluminum
>weld
Aluminum is one of the most weldable things on this earth why are you even posting
Buy on the last day of the month when the dealer wants to meet the OEM's sales quota.
Buy from the top salesman because the sales manager loves him and gives his customers better deals.
Buy some non-normalfag car that nobody wants.
Fuck off kike, people are becoming aware of your bullshit now.
Should I buy a 2003 mustang convertible for 4k? The dealer says it was only a rental car for a year or two.
slam a fist full of cash on their desk and have the hottest friend thats a girl... this is important, thats a girl that you know start stripping off all her clothing and start sucking on her nipples and then snatch the keys that you didn't give back during a test drive, because if you gave them back you just lost all that fucking cash. walk the fuck out and drive off
Hold on let me call up one of my side bitches that fits the bill
Will this work for a 95 Miata?
I. Let my mechanics deal with them local gm/Holden are crap to deal with
2002 nissan sentra with leather seats and a sun roof
No, the owner is probably gay.
I've sold cars for three and a half years, always been honest with people. I make a good living, but like 90% of car sales and I work on straight commission. I can recognize when someone is playing games with me and I don't play them back. The autists in this thread think they know how to buy cars but if I recognize someone is playing with me I'll cut it real short. Buy it or don't, but certainly don't waste my time. For any anons curious as to how to get a good deal, get good service and be treated right.
Do your research before going in.
Don't treat me like a leper, I'm a decent human being trying to make a living, just like you.
Put a reasonable offer on the car you're interested.
Work WITH your salesperson not against him. He wants to sell a car as bad as you want to buy one.
DO NOT waste a ton of his time. If you aren't ready to buy be honest.
Last year I sold a little over 200 cars for top salesman. I was in the top 10 for my state and number one at my store. I sell new and used cars and trucks. If any anons want an honest answer from someone actually in the business
Used car I'm looking at is listed at 7800, KBB says it should be 6800, Carfax says it was damaged in an accident 6 years ago, what should my initial offer be?
What would be a reasonable price for a mazdaspeed3?
How to haggle at small dealer. Like on the road price n stuff I'm new to buying cars
What's a reasonable price for a '16 tlx w/ tech?
Lads so I test drove a rav4 2004 today, I loved it but I played it cool, the two other vehicles I was supposed to test drive have sold, and I basically want the rav4. How long should I give it before calling him to make an offer? I don't want to seem desperate.
Being a sleaze ball helps most of the time.
Wait for the SI you'll probably get the vanilla civic cheaper.
theyre asking 7600 for it, I want it for 6kish
It was a Volvo wagon. Few cars back so I don't remember the model.
Word
told this one before
>go to dealer, going to but a one-year off model
>see one I like
>look it up and see their price is reasonable. Actually only about $100 off KBB
>look up trade value of my car. It's $10K. I'm surprised but happy with that
>go to dealer and do the dance, look at cars and decide on the original car
>salesguy says "we don't haggle on trade-ins. we give you KBB trade-in value"
>again I'm fine with that
>guy looks at my car, takes the registration, runs a carfax on it (no accidents)
>comes back and tells me KBB trade-in value is $5K
>tell him there must be some mistake. pill up KBB on my phone and show him it's $10K
>guy gets flustered. gets his manager
>manager says "he shouldn't have told you that"
>I say that's fine. if KBB is off by 50% on the trade-in, they are probably 50% off on the price of the car, too.
>offer $12.5K for a $25K car
>more stammering
>they agree to the $10K trade-in
honestly? I can't believe the car was worth $10K but I got it.
>spot the car salesman
Fight jewness with jewness, I love it
>Implying the real automotive jews arnt the insurers
stay ignorant goy
The car salesman is immunized against all dangers: one may call him a scoundrel, parasite, swindler, profiteer, it all runs off him like water off a raincoat. But call him a car salesman and you will be astonished at how he recoils, how injured he is, how he suddenly shrinks back: “I’ve been found out.”
Look at Nada, and kbb. Take average trade and subtract two grand. I would personally not buy a vehicle with an accident. Unsure of what you're getting into.
New or used?
I've always avoided dirt lot dealers. A lot of time their inventory comes from auctions. Auction cars are generally cars that a franchise dealer didn't want. But treat it the same way you would any other lot. Be reasonable with them and look at book values before coming in and make sure the car fax matches the vin! I've seen some small lots switch them around
I work at large Ford dealership if anyone wants help with their line up
New tlx
The only reason to subtract two grand is because of the damage. You don't want to be upside down in a fucked up car, if there is something wrong with it
How much are they asking and is that with mark up?
The absolute best advice u can give to anyone looking to buy a car is to treat negotians like a business transaction. That is how the store youre buying from is treating your purchase. When you get all emotional and think the salesman is out to fuck you it can end negotiations quickly and will just make the purchase an awful experience
$40k before tax and paper.
$42 to walk out the door.
What are your thoughts on the tlx?
...
Used let's say 2008 model will 100k or less miles
Acura doesn't have a huge market share in my area so I'm not super familiar with them. I'm not sure how much Acura marks up their vehicles but you can likely get into it for 36-38 before rebates and ttl.
Book it out on Nada.com. If you can but for between average and clean trade you're doing good
The damage was done in 2010, and the vehicle looked good and drove well. Is simply having an accident report with damage noted on a CARFAX a legitimate reason to talk down the price or will I be laughed at?
Absolutely it is. I would never buy a vehicle with prior damage. Is much harder to resell later because people are naturally suspicious of it. If you can get a good deal and plan on keeping a long time might be worth doing but you'll take it in the shorts when you go to trade in
Thanks for all of our help, you're a god.
My last question; I test drove the vehicle today, I told him I didn't wasn't going to make an offer because I still had other dealerships to look at. I want the car, should I make the offer over the phone and negotiate over the phone, or would I be more effective in person? I'm a confident smooth talker and well spoken so I have no issues with either, just with whatever will put the ball on my side of the field.
A dealership is more likely to work with you in person because a lot of people will express interest in a car via Internet or phone and never actually show up.
The dealer might not bring you to exactly to where you want to be on price but if it's reasonable, you like the dealer and you like the car, why not?
Make sure you ask for the sales person who drove you! Chances are that guy is paying rent and feeding his kids off selling cars.
How much the vehicle is worth will vary by region as well, so probably look at Craigslist and see what people are selling them for. Still advisable to buy from a reputable dealer but gives you an idea of the market. (used wrx in my area are selling for between 3-5 over book, in the southern US they're at our below retail)
Good thread desu
That's like being a prostitute for "only" a year
Tell them I'm going to finance everything through them and ask about extended warranties.
Get deal sealed and on paper. Both sign. Then "I've changed my mind" and pay cash.
Yesterday I was the Jew.
>Selling 1997 Acura CL 3.0
>Bought it for $1,500
>Interior 9/10 and exterior 9/10
>198,000 miles
>Needs: belts, hoses, air box, timing belt/water pump, a new catalytic converter, rack and pinion, hub assemblies for the front, bearings to goes with those assemblies, rotors, pads and an oil chance.
>Check engine light is on.
>Have mechanic friend clear it.
>Have it listed for $2,500.
>Meet the couple take them on a drive to show how well it handles but do admit it needs new rotors.
>They thanked for my honesty.
>They want it for their grand daughter and they want it BAD.
>I lie and tell them I have two more potential buyers coming that night but if they agree to $2,850 then I'll call them and say it's been sold.
>They gladly agree.
I made $1,300 on a car that needs about $1,500 in parts (because it's so old) and I know once that check engine light comes on they're going to call and bitch but I have zero legal obligation to fix anything since it's their POS now.
Eh, buyer beware.
Kys jew
Find a car you want to buy.
Decide on the price you think its worth. Not the max price you're willing to pay. Not the price adjusted for haggle room. - Just what you think its worth.
Give the salesman your price. Make it clear that your price includes any and all fees he may want to pull out of his ass.
Leave if he doesn't accept your price.
This is fucking retarded and nobody will fall for it.
Two nights ago my landlord/roommate found a "Resell Red" aka "Cop Magnet Red" Ford Mustang; anyways he brought me along to drive it home if he liked it.
So we're checking it out and it has tons of paint scratches and scrapes from him driving it from California to Arizona, missing exterior trim on the driver side, missing interior trim, etc.
I tell him but he's made his mind up and says "Oh, I can fix up all those problems, eh." He's Canadian, kek.
Anyways the kid was was $5,200 but he says he'll take $4,500 but he kid doesn't have an open title so he agrees to get it done and have it ready by tomorrow. My Canadian buddy is HYPED as fuck.
Anything seem strange to you guys about this?
So last night we drove out to meet him and buy the car so we meet in a Target, he signs the bill of sale and is one signature away from owning it.
Then for some strange reason at the last possible second he decides TO GIVE IT A TEST DRIVE AND SEE HOW IT HANDLES; he and the owner take a two minute drive and then he waves me over to talk in private.
He wants me to take a drive and give him my thoughts; I get in and within the first 5 seconds we hear this grinding noise coming from the bottom rear of the car.
I got it up to 75 MPH and it gets louder and louder; I look over at the kid and ask him if he hears that.
"No it sounds just fine to me."
We go back to the Target and I tell his retard that it's a piece of shit he should have test drove the night before and that his HYPE to get a Mustang was clouding his judgement big time.
He tells the kid that I didn't like and told him to pass on the car; he literally threw me up the bus (not that I gave a fuck) since he's a pussy.
TL;DR Dumbass was about to buy a car without test driving it. Those fucking Canadians, eh?
LOL too convoluted.
I go to a few dealerships, find the car I like, we negotiate until we get to the last 15 minutes of the deal aka signing the paperwork. You have your poker faced wing-man call you over and pretend to tell he noticed something wrong with the car and/or deal.
You go back in and explain that you appreciate their time but your gut isn't 100% on board so you're going to shop around some more.
They were about to cum SO hard then you pulled out and about to walk out the door; you'd be amazed at the better interest rate, more trade in value and a lower sticker price they'll willing to do to finish this sale. Since if you do walk out, you wasted about 2 hours of their time when they could have been making actual money.