>No cold air intakes allowed edition
>pic related
>K20Z3 head
>Supertech 92lb dual springs
>Skunk2 stock spec valves
>Drag cartel Stage 3.2 cams
slapping it onto
>K24A2 block
>12.5:1 compression
>still undecided on which rods/pistons
>modified K20A2 oil pump
hoping to make 290+ whp all motor, 9000 rpm screamer on 93 pump.
Looking at walbro255, but I'm wondering what size injector will work best with this set up. Any advice? 410cc probably too small, right?
What projects are you guys working on?
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I dont like K24's stroke too long, high RPM wears it out faster than K20.
If I did this, it'd be K20 crank in taller K24 block, with longer rods to make it around 1.75:1 rod./stroke ratio. 10-11K rpm all day and the other mods you mentioned. Better rod ratio means a smoother rev over the std K20 and bigger bore bumps disp a bit.
could you elaborate a little more on the crank/stroke ratio bit? I'm not sure I follow.
Are there parts (i.e., rods/pistons) available to achieve that ratio? Or would it have to be something custom built?
>I dont like
fuck off dip shit
I'm positive they make long rods for K20 crank into K24 block.If not no sweat getting them custom.
The rod/stroke ratio determines the angle steepness of the rod and the acceleration rate of the piston from TDC.
tldr; Short rods = low rod ratio = abrupt acceleration from TDC = shoving the piston into the cylinder wall = friction loss = rod and piston stress = more wear
Long rods = high rod ratio = more sinusoidal piston acceleration (smoother) from TDC = less shoving against cylinder wall = less friction loss = less rod/piston stress = less wear and higher RPM safezone
hmm, that's pretty interesting and not a point I had even considered. I've seen a few people run a similar set up as to what I'm going for, but with more aggressive cams, but never heard of swapping out the crank. For my purposes and how I plan on running the car, I think I'll be safe with the k24 crank, but I'll have to research a little more and see how cost effective this is. Thanks for the info, user
That's cool. It's a 2 liter then? OK, the block from the RSX type-s. 90 more horsepower than stock. So this is the modern interpretation of the original Fast and Furious.
k24a2 = 2.4 liter from '06 TSX (using the block)
k20z3 = 2.0 liter from '08 Civic Si (using head)
k20a2 = RSX type s (using oil pump - good for 9000 rpm)
>So this is the modern interpretation of the original Fast and Furious
no crust
No prob man. Just remember, the F20C has a 1.82 rod ratio, the B16 has a 1.75 rod ratio and these are about the smoothest Honda 4cyls to rev high. For reference stock K20 is 1.62 and stock K24 is 1.5.
also, if we're talkin whp, this will make about 130whp gain over stock without forced induction. within the context of a 2800 lb car is some breddy good gains
Cool.
Yeah that's a lot.
Long rods = more weight, more rotating mass, taller block, and higher cylinder pressure
>walbro255
literal meme pump
>410cc probably too small, right?
no that should be fine
also do you have the dimensions of your valve springs?
>more weight
inconsequential, negative also offset by physics ie. slower *rate* of acceleration
>rotating mass
Only reciprocating mass in theory, easily compensated for in practice
>taller block
Yes! That and the larger stock bore are the benefits of using a K24 block to make a long rod K20.
>higher cylinder pressure
Kind of. The Peak Cylinder Pressure won't change. The pressure of combustion ATDC will stay higher, longer since the piston accelerates from TDC at a slower rate. The piston is said to 'dwell' more at TDC with the long rod, thereby increasing the completeness of the combustion, translating into more energy from the A/F mixture.
F1 cars have high rod ratios in the early-mid 2's, they need to be reliable at top revs. Production cars get low rod ratios and short rods for hood clearance and economy.
stock pump ok you think? I don't really know too much about the fuel system
>also do you have the dimensions of your valve springs?
dimensions I'm not too sure on, but it's the SPRK-H1021D kit which is 92lbs @ 40.4mm lift. this is the kit that Jeremy at Drag Cartel and Vit recommend for 3.2's
Idk if the stock pump can cope, just find something OEM that is around 300-400hp.
Plenty of cars in that ballpark.
Most Walboros and Bosch 044s for sale are counterfeit and fail within 12 months.
with a long rod set up am I looking at mostly reliability gains, or are there some meaningful power gains from a complete cumbustion process as you put it?
How do I learn about all this?
Google? Auto textbooks? YouTube?
>Supertech 92lb dual springs
They also make a great motor oil.
i kek'd
For a short while I was dailying a dc5 type r with a Frankenstein build like you are describing, although much simpler
>k20a red top head
>k24a1 block
>kpro
It made 175kW atw, however it felt rough as guts revving out to 8500 so I rarely did. It was also shit on fuel and uninsurable.
Other annons itt make good points about the bore/stroke ratio. I'll buy another type r in the future but I'd rather have the stock k20a block
op here, I started working on cars about a year and a half ago and learned by breaking things on my car, being a ricer, etc. Whenever I wanted to modify or fix something I broke, I would google/youtube, and if needed, go to the library and use the alldata system for torque specs and proper procedures. I have a honda civic and even though it's not very fast and people like to crack jokes, it's been a great car to learn on.
For tuning, I have a guy that does that, tire mounting I go to a shop, and then I had a machine shop mill the K20Z3 cylinder head and pull a stuck bolt out of the K24A2 crankcase, but otherwise everything else I just learned by doing or googling basically.
Here's my list of financial guffaws that I've accrued and installed over the past 1.5 years if anyone's curious:
>2008 Civic Si Sedan bought for $10k cash
>stock K24A2 swap (original K20Z3 threw a rod - block rekt, cylinder head good to go after professional inspection)
>RBC Intake Manifold
>Hondata IMG
>K20Z3 underdrive pulley
>Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
>Exedy HF02 Flywheel
>RDX 410cc injectors
>modified Hybrid Racing 3.5" intake
>Skunk2 Alpha Series Header
>Skunk2 Megapower RR 76mm exhaust
>Hasport Rear and Upper Mounts (70a durometer)
>Prothane poly LCA, front, and rear sway bar bushings
>Skunk2 Pro-S II V2 coilovers
>Skunk2 Rear Camber Arms
>Beaks lower tie bar
>Enkei TS-10's 17x8+35
>Bridgestone RE760's 225/45
here is my youtube channel, i've been updating it since before the K24 swap:
what was your cr?
also, what oil pump were you running?
k24a1 is the CRV block if I'm not mistaken and a pretty common block to use for a frankenstein, but I wouldn't run that set up without changing compression and swapping in a better oil pump.
Don't know what make sorry, JTune built it and I bought it cheap as and sold it not long after. It had an aftermarket oil pump though and a baffeled sump. Not a clue in hell what the CR was, I can't even remember what a stock red top is kek
All I know is that it torque steered like a bitch and was faster than a 25det r33 from a 3rd gear