/qtddtot/
New thread, old one was ~5 posts to bump limit.
What could be a possible cause of skirt warping like this on a car? Car is a 1-owner trade-in with a clean vehicle history report. Want to know before I invest further in the process.
Pics to follow
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rx7club.com
twitter.com
Possible a side skirt that was applied and removed?
also check 'em
...
....what? that's normal on most newer cars. The texture makes it harder for grime/mud/ice to stick to the paint there.
I don't necessarily mean the texture, I mean the actual bending of the metal. Is that fairly normal for a used car? '07, by the way.
With the 25 year import law and rx7 23rd being able to import in the next few years is price going to drop? Should I buy one asap or buy one in 2 years?
FD prices will rise both with '92s being able to be imported as well as the new RX.
A lot of FD owners are selling theirs at markups to pay for the new one. Take a look at R32 prices on imports for an example of what will happen with FDs.
Someone didn't use the correct jack location
Is that all? It's consistent on every side. If that's it then I suppose it could be a lost worse. Thanks m8.
>tfw Canadian
Y'all can buy this from me in February 2019 for 30 grand
>tfw no matter how fucked our auto laws are we will never be a leaf with Trudeau as our head of state
feels good man
Gosh I don't know what could bend metal on a 2 tonne mobile eggshell...Maybe they fucking drove over a curb?
He's a puppet, I don't give a shit. I'm just here because I was born here.
Wouldn't want to live in the states or most of Europe right now, anyway. But that doesn't leave me a lot of places to move to in the future
How can an inner fender need to be replaced? Ruling out corrosion. A car I'm looking at has had its left hand inner fender replaced and the hood as well. The outer fenders haven't been touched.
I hate that. I see so many new cars with that paint texture all over them- usually luxury American cars. It looks like the paint started running. Fucking awful. I hope that shit goes away after the paint sits and is washed and waxed for a year.
Take a lesson from Lexus and Jaguar if you want a proper paint job
Wuss poppin' b?
Got a bit of a problem, might be two different things, here goes
>horn doesn't work when pressed, but does work when i lock car
>cruise control doesn't work, the lights don't even come on at night like the rest of the dashboard
>airbag warning light came on
>steering wheel makes a sort of "crunch noise" when turned all the way either direction
>when driving 60mph or more, i can hear a rattling sound behind the steering wheel whatever it's called
>feel steering wheel vibrate a lot too
Which for the last 2 i think it might be a wherl alignment issue but I'm not sure
>b
>Doesn't tell us the make/model/year
All I can figure is you have some major electrical problems
Today I was about to make a left turn, but saw that the gate was closed, when it usually isn't. So then I tried to merge into the right lane, since the cars were still a decent distance away. For good measure, I stepped on the accelerator pretty hard. Car lost control, started turning back and forth really quickly, and then finally started going straight at a steady 40 mph, even though I was trying to make it accelerate faster (although I won't rule out the fact that I was scared shitless and my leg might just have been paralyzed with fear). This was in a 2008 Ford Focus. Luckily the car next to me swerved out of the way.
I'm a complete car noob, but my question is:
Is there something wrong with my car, or is this to be expected if you try and accelerate too fast? I just completely stomped on the accelerator to try to get to 50 mph as fast as possible since that's what the traffic was coming at. I know it was dumb and I should have waited for traffic to pass. This happened like 20 minutes ago and I can still feel the adrenaline and can clearly see myself getting T-boned by the F150 coming in at 50 mph.
May be too technical of a Q, but whatever.
Anyone here use aftermarket guages? I have a mk2 gti that's gonna get a 1.8t transplant. I don't want to use the mk4 dash, and my existing dash also sucks. I want to rip out the insert where the actual switches, gauge pod, and shit is and replace it with sheet aluminum and VDO gauges for optimal monitoring of all of my shenanigans. Speedo should be mechanical off the 2Y trans and the tach I should be able to wire independently of the ECU, if the factory output can't be made to work with the new gauges. Is there a hole in my logic here? Am I missing anything? It's tough to get a straight answer.
I should add that when it was moving back and forth, my car wasn't accelerating much, if at all, I was too scared to notice. Could it also have been because it was raining earlier this morning? There wasn't any noticeable rain markings left on the floor, since this was California rain we're talking about, so it was more like sprinkles that dried up already. I checked and my car tires are still slightly wet though. Which brings me to another question, could it be a problem with my tires, or could my tires have messed up during this?
On a scale from 1-10, how hard is it to install pic related?
I just want a remote starter so that I can have my car toasty in the garage while I get ready for work in the morning.
I have messed with the car a bit (hard-wired dash cams), and my brother owns a body shop so I have all the tools and space.
But should I not be a Jew and just pay someone if it's not worth the trouble?
It's called Torque Steer, and it's completely normal in a FWD car with a decent power/weight ratio.
Thank you so much. So I take it that I shouldn't be worried and that I just need to accelerate more slowly next time?
Not the user you replied to, but it may have been exaggerated by the wet road and loss of traction. California roads are slick when wet I've noticed. I live by Sacramento and I'm from Indiana. I swear I've driven on snow stickier than wet pavement here.
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500hd with a 5 speed. No factory cruise control. What's my best option for changing that? No plans for using cruise going up and down hills.
When I turn my car on accessory mode my oil light, cel, and powersteering stay on while everything else disapears. When I turn the car all the way on it goes away. What does this mean?
Yeah, google it for the specifics, just try not to floor it from a stop or almost-stop
Depends on the car, if older than late 90s probably about a 4 if newer 11.
Find a junked 2500hd that came with cruise, pull off all the relevant parts and transplant
Not a fucking thing, retard.
You sure you're in accessory? Sounds like you're in run right before start
Sorry my bad forget what's it's called. When you turn your car on half way to where it's using the battery only.
There's a coil of wire just below the steering wheel in the top of your steering column. I'd say this is fucked.
This also connects the airbag in the steering wheel to the airbag computer, so if you're squeamish about it take it to a mechanic.
It's a lamp test. Means everything's working as it should.
Yes its normal. It's your computer running a quick diagnostic really fast.
That's pretty gay when you think about it
Yeah but everything else disappears after a second. The cel, battery, oil, and powersteering stay there. I don't see that in my dads car
Tire blowout.
The only problem I can see is the speedometer will need to have the right input speed.
Meaning the speedo drive might be 1,020 revolutions per mile, some might be 1,100 revolutions per mile, etc.
Electronic tach drive is pretty much the same across all similar 4-stroke engine configurations. A 4 cylinder tach will work on any 4 cylinder, an 8 cylinder tach will work on any 8 cylinder, etc. Aftermarket tachs take their drive off the ignition coil.
There will also be an issue with the fuel gauge but that's nothing some measuring and electronic wizardry can't take care of. It's a well-documented thing and a little googling will go a long way.
Not really. If you every wonder if your check engine light is supposed to be on, but its burnt out. Youll know when you turn your key to run if its bad or if its working. Same with abs lights and shit.
Hey /QTDDTOT/, I have an '87 RX7 whose passenger-side light stopped popping up. Just the other day it was working fine, but the past couple days it started lagging a bit behind the driver-side light but it would still come up. Yesterday it stopped coming up at all.
Curiously though, if I start manually winding up the light it'll start popping up by itself (in little bursts).
This is my first time dealing with pop-up headlights and I'm not too experienced with electrical stuff. I've been trying to find out what's going on but the closest thing I've found is a guy that had a (what I think sounds like) a similar problem with his FD3S (rx7club.com
Is this usually how the motor goes and I need to start looking for a new retractor motor? Or does it seem like it's something that can be fixed?
Becausedifferent cars do different shit. Its when the lights stay on after the car is actually on when you should worry. My chevys CEL doesnt turn off until i turn the actual car on, whilst my buddys toyota all them turn off after like 2 seconds
Anyone have a recommendation on a junkyard electric fan for a drag car?
Just grease your shit motor, and make sure the light isnt rubbing. Friction could be all that is wrong here.
I have a mazda 3. That's good to hear tho. I was having a mini panic attack for a second
Sorry my family,
>2012
>nissan
>versa
>fwd
>1.6l
>automatic
It's a 2013.
Guess I'll just pay a shop pro.
Make and model doesn't really matter all that much lol. Every manufacturer does the clockspring wire thing when there's multiple switches and an airbag in the steering wheel.
As for the vibration that could be any number of things.
>Flat spot on the tire
>Unbalanced tire
>Bent rim
>Warped brake rotor
>Bad shocks
>Bad ball joints
>Bad bushings
>Bad steering box mounts
>Bad tie rods
>Bad CV joints
>Bad wheel bearing
Basically you should inspect EVERYTHING.
Push down on each front corner of the car. If it bounces, the shocks are done. If it returns to normal ride height without a bounce, the shocks are fine.
Jack the front end up and put the car in neutral.
Spin the tire, looking at the tread and runout. Listen for any dragging noises and feel for any grinding or 'bumpy' spots.
Shake the wheel up and down. There shouldn't be any play in it. Put a prybar between the ground and the wheel and give it a pull, watching for any movement.
If there is, start watching for where it's happening, whether it's in the ball joints, wheel bearing or suspension bushings. Also watch the strut to make sure the strut mount hasn't gone bad.
Next, make sure the steering wheel is locked. Shake the wheel side to side. You're looking for play in the tie rods and movement in the steering box.
Next, pull the wheel off and give it another spin, watching the rotor for runout.
Give the CV axle a shake. There shouldn't be any side-to side play in it.
>2009 BMW 335i on CL
>photo of window sticker shows Logic7 option
>look up vin on decoder, decoder shows HiFi sound, no Logic7
Is this enough reason to walk away? Is it common for a car to be coded incorrectly? Everything else seems to match, there's no picture of the center of the dash for me to determine whether the extra Logic7 speakers are there.
Also, are you refering to the clockspring?
Yup, that's exactly what I'm talking about.
>no idle power at all
>car jerks hard when I give it gas from a stop, rolls backward on hills when I let the brake off and push the gas pedal down
help
03 Galant with 3.0 L 6G72 V6
Change your fuel and air filter, and check your MAF sensor.
If it has an MAP sensor, check that, too.
2003 ford escape. Cruise control doesn't work. Light comes on but nothing else works. Where do I begin diagnosis?
What happens when you floor it from a stop?
Check to make sure the actuator under the hood is getting vacuum
lurches and tires chirp
Hesitates, RPMs go up and then the car moves
It's automatic, right?
Check your trans fluid.
Clockspring behind the wheel is fucked, it's that thing that routes all the electrical connections from the column to the wheel.
Explains the grinding noise, the horn not working and the missing lights and functionality of cruise control
I figured it was, i just wanted to be sure by getting some input
I've got a leaky clutch master cylinder, it's leaking from where the cylinder housing meets the wall of the car. I'm a lazy shit and it'd be a massive process to swap it with a new one (1987 mr2) so instead I'd rather bandage fix it. So, first is there any sealant like a silicone I could just slap around it to make it stop? I'm assuming not since brake fluid is nasty shit. Secondly, could I perhaps just change the fluid to dot5/5.1 and just top it off with no adverse affects to my paint or drivability/clutch life. I assume dot5/5.1 has the same hydrualic characteristics as 3/4 so there shouldn't be any change in clutch feel or travel or anything right?
Nope. Fluid showing up at the firewall means it's leaking internally.
You're just going to have to bite the bullet and change it.
Niggers. I have one last ditch effort of torqueing the fuck out of the nuts and tighten down the cylinder housing more and if that doesn't work then dot5 clutch fluid here I come
>clutch fluid
Just change the bitch, you'll end up getting stranded if you don't.
s-sorry, brake fluid
Please don't do that, you'll strip out the studs, and it won't stop the leak.
That's just a flange to mount it, and doesn't do ANY sealing.
I'll post a pic of an individual cylinder in my next post.
Anyways, if this is what your car looks like, that's not hard to get to.
I just had to remove my brake lines, repaint the frunk, replace the brake master cylinder and put everything back, I am not doing all that bullshit again so soon. I'll swap the clutch cylinder some time next year.
It doesn't? Well shit.
Since you had everything apart, and you knew the shit was old, why didn't you replace it then?
How hard is it to refresh a Ford 8.8 rear end? special tools needed? My mercs is getting loud and Id like to swap to a traction lok and 31 spline axles in.
I (apparently) mis-diagnosed what caused pic related. I thought it was the brake mc (which to be fair was leaking and did need to be replaced), but now I see it was the clutch mc leaking from that flange that was the cause. You're right that I should have replaced that while I was at it, but I didn't. I will soon, but not immediately. I guess I won't bandage fix it with some dot5 fluid after all, I'll just keep something there to soak it up until I replace it. Thanks for letting me see the light Veeky Forums
what are you doing? just replacing the carrier, or ring pinion and everything?
If you're replacing the pinion and ring, you need a setup to measure backlash, possibly a shim kit for the pinion, and you'll probably need a press to press on and off the bearings.
I did everything short of pulling apart the carrier when I rebuilt mine, just threw a new track-lok carrier, and ring and pinion in.
Here's what's happening.
dot 5 is silicone based and IS NOT compatible with glycol based dot 3/4/5.1
No shit, which is why I'd swap it out completely and not top it off. Regardless, I'm not going to bother anymore since fixing the actual problem is a much better idea.
The bends are probably from someone being careless while jacking up the car
oop I posted in the old thread
We've had a 280zx sitting for about 10 years, but right before we put it away, we put new fluids in it, I checked it not too long ago and the fluids looked just about brand new, as seen in pic related
Asides from an oil and fuel change, would it be alright to use the fluids it already has just while we're working on getting it up and running again?
There's a few things that are dry, like the power steering fluid and coolant reservoirs, but like here, in the clutch master cylinder, it's pretty alright looking.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it should be changed before you start driving it.
that was dry as well (line may have busted and drained), when I checked, the oil was clean, fluid in clutch MC was clean, coolant was neon green in the radiator, etc. So is that the only fluid I should look out for?
The stuff in the clutch hydraulic system IS brake fluid.
Also the water pump will probably be bad, but don't worry about that until you run the engine and verify it's condition.
How in a fat baby's dick am I supposed to find the highlighted parts?
Any of you purchase transmission parts? The pieces inside it. Not torque converters or something like that. Where do you get them from? I can't find them anywhere. Can't even find what to look for. I've found diagrams, but I need the specific parts. Seems like they're not being sold?
I've seen kits for sale, but that's just the generic stuff.
Depends on the manufacturer, but most car companies sell transmission as whole remanufactured units, if you want individual parts you may have to contact the transmission manufacturer directly, or even a transmission shop.
Have you tried looking around in pick a parts?
Looking for a daily that can climb over a 6 inch curb without tearing the bumper off or scraping the a hole in the oil pan. Thoughts?
Also it would help us to know what car you are looking for.
aftermarket Diff carriers and ring & pinions are availiable in cars that have common differentials, Like 8.8's in fords, and 12 bolts in GM's
Ranger/Shit Dime.
shit dime?
oh, S-10
>shit-dime
kek
Was looking at rangers, but there's 10x more F150s than Rangers in my area and budget. Are the half ton's particularly worse than the quarter tons?
Depends on the year but typically the Vulcan and Colonge V6 in the Ranger was as thirsty as the 30 V8 in the F150, so operating costs weren't much different but on the other hand the 302 wasn't putting much more power over the Cologne in the last few years it was made.
The 4.6 and 5.4 modular engines have a lot of issues if not properly cared for, and personally as a 302 guy I would stay away from them, but your mileage may vary.
Thanks. That's helpful.
There's also the 300 I6.
I don't think they're much of a mileage improvement over the 302 though
07 Outlander 4wd v6 with 190k km or an 08 Outlander fwd v4 220k km? They both have an asking price of 5k canadian. Also any reason to pass on both? Previous car got writen off and I cant afford/dont want to spend more.
True, but they tended to be a lot more reliable than the Windsors, the trade off being that there's more of an after market for the Windsor.
>hey both have an asking price of 5k canadian
They're both shitsubishis.
Mitsubishi hasn't imported a decent SUV since the 90's
Also they didn't come with V4's
Heh, yeah. The first one I ever drove had 400,000 miles on it.
It was a slug. An incredibly long-lasting slug, but still a slug.
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. For some of these vehicles, it's more efficient to sell an entire transmission instead of one part.
The only other thing I've seen was selling parts from another transmission, but that's rare. They'd rather just sell the whole thing.
I'm sure SOME places might have the actual parts.
Yes, but was saving it for the end. Looks like that's what I'll do.
2001 Toyota Camry 2.2L L4