ITT: Things that worry you about your car

the sound... i can't stop hearing it

>new car
>kind of strange noise coming from the transmission area under light acceleration
>been that way since 2k miles
>dealership says it's normal
>now at 17k miles, still happens and just ignore it

Its not the worst sound, to be fair

>the crunching sound when you snap the head of a bolt that you could feel was SO CLOSE to releasing
>the sound of plastic cracking when you're reassembling the interior
>the sound of a brand new bulb hitting the cement floor

>car is 3 decades old
>breddy good condition

>still afraid something could go wrong when going fast

>accelerate
>raspy metal vibration noise at exactly 3100 rpm and 3800 rpm
>car runs fine, noise isn't really noticeable under hard acceleration

>car drives straight
>wheel tilted a tiny bit to the left

the emergency brake

what's wrong with it?

I guess >rust but I don't live in a rust belt or where the roads get salted when it snows so yeah.

>when you own solid, reliable vehicles you can rely on

Feels great, man.

>steer by wire
>drive by wire
>any airbags ever
>electronic shift transmission
>keyless entry

this

I'm terrified that my hood will pop up on the highway and slam into my windshield that I'm constantly looking for an escape route to drive while "blind".

>remove hood
>weld hood

There are options

Those don't seem like really good options. The hood bounces like crazy when I go over 80kmh, one big wind gust feels like it will slam it in my face

I'm just waiting for the stock turbo in my speed3 to blow up. K20 is known to have issues around 80k miles and I'm at 90. But also some dont, dunno. Saving up for a big turbo so that I'm prepped for when that shit goes down though.

Put a safety cable on it so if the latch lets go the bonnet doesn't fly up too far.

>Brakes feel shaky at high speeds
>ABS light randomly comes on, sometimes doesn't for weeks
>Can't tell if warped rotors, ABS being shit, or the drilled/slotted rotors just feeling strange
>Don't want to check any of them
>Just drive it like this until something fails

>oil drip I have (rear main seal I think)
>whining power steering pump
>squeaking bushings
>clutch condition
>the misfire it has
>the rusty radiator
>all the mud on the underside of the frame and body
>truck pulls to the right
>stalls on a cold start sometimes (clogged fuel filter or worn out fuel pump?)

What the fuck. Seek help. That will literally never happen.

>Interference engine
>Burning oil and engine sludge are common issues with this engine

>Car has exhaust leak
>paranoid that exhaust is going to leak into the cabin
>So paranoid that I start to feel dizzy and weak even though there's no detectable exhaust smell

I'm actually scared to drive my car even though I've taken it on a few 3 hour drives recently and nothing happened. I need to get this shit fixed.

most deadly gasses don't have smells you fuck, get it checked out

Cracks on tire sidewalls.
Tires 10 years old
Cost $1000 to replace which I don't have.

it will only happen if he or she is dumb enough to leave it unlatched and drive off

I have two good tires and two old tires. I get to choose between accelerating and braking since it rains here all the time

Throwout or pilot bearing in the clutch.

>it's a Honda

>that little rattle that sometimes appears at ~2300rpm
My poor commodore, I fear she's almost done.

>2012 manual econobox I got as a kind of gift
>Apparently last owner crashed it, radiator died on me and we found out shit was crooked
>Hood is visibly unaligned
>No ABS
>Engine known for coming out of factory with wrong crankshaft bushings, leading to catastrophic failures
>Random rattling when idling
>Random noises that come and go
>Clutch may need replacing soon

Mexican build quality

>Don't want to check any of them
>Just drive it like this until something fails
If I wasn't anonymous I would never admit to knowing this feel

>>stalls on a cold start sometimes (clogged fuel filter or worn out fuel pump?)

likely one of these:
-you dont give it enough gas when starting
-you dont set your choke right
-you dont set your high idle with the choke right
-if electric choke, could be worn out
-trying to do any of these things in the wrong order

$1000 tires?
Do you have hundreds of dollars hidden in them?

Have 32 inch BFG tires. If I go for 31s it brings it down to $800 but still a lot. If I put tiny tires it will look weird since it is lifted. By a big truck they said. You can go offroading they said. Women will love you they said.

Is this by any chance a roughly 30 year old F-150/Bronco?

>check engine light vanished on its own

No airbag or seatbelt
Its a 1 ton so Ill probably be alright

I put the wrong grade of fuel in it at a petrol station that didn't have the RON listed, and now it's low on power and torque. I have to baby it until it's used the half-tank of shitty fuel.
'Performance' fuel my ass.

There's some creaking that completely fills the rear cabin when pressing the brakes. It's only when I first start it up and drive around slowly to get it out of a parking lot. After warming up there's nothing.

I guess I need new brakes, but there's no brake fade so I never get around to actually replacing them.

lucky

>I did all of my own wiring
>I did all of the torquing
>I rebuilt the top end
>Dear god what is that sound from my rear diff
>Even more dear god why has the sound traveled up to the gearboxB

>it's a Mazda

whats wrong with it

>precats exploding
>lines rusted through
>tyres giving away middle of tougay and snap overmeming me into a ditch

>it's a Mazda

>rattle on below 2k rpm in 4th gear
>no power below 2k rpm in 4th gear
>30 years old wiring

what's wrong with that

>recall notice
>recall notice
>recall notice
>recall notice

>battery went bad and there's a 50/50 chance that it'll not turn on
>spent the money for a new battery on an 500gb SSD for my dankpad instead

shit

My fucking steering column sometimes starts to smoke when I turn on the blinkers, shit freaks me out

Yeah, that's totally okay, no reason at all to take action and of course not an electric fire in the making when there's a shorting and the fucking column starts to smoke

Happened to me before. Before you say I left my hood unlatched, I didn't. The last time I opened my hood was 3 weeks before that.

It was a freak accident, I was going 45 mph when it happened. I jammed the brakes until I was going about 20mph and I had to look through the very small crack in the bottom of the windshield to see where I could pull over.

Rekt the hood, cracked my windshield and messed up the alignment on one of my fenders. Got a new hood from the junkyard the next day and that was the end of that.

>Turbocharger is known for working too hard and chewing it's bushing away at like 100k miles or less
>Truck is sitting at 110k miles right meow, a bit of play is already there, and it's a unicorn turdbo with no aftermarket support
>Clutch has been replaced by one of an unknown brand, likely had grease get into the contact surface, and now slips at over 45 MPH
>possibly the flywheel has to be resurfaced, if not replaced (it's a dual mass flywheel, also unicorn unobtainium part)
>Front brake discs have lips that would make a Cuban mama green with envy
>19 year old radiator needs replacement, same with water pump (known for getting cavitation damage)
>Tie rod ends, bushings, and pretty much everything else in the front end needs replacement, although not with urgency (again, not easily found)
>EGR fucked the engine for well over 90k miles, now want to disassemble and clean it from all the nasty gunk and soot that's there, but gaskets are (you guessed it) hard to find, at the least
>Plastic, belt-driven engine fan is cracked and seems about ready to become a fragmentation grenade in the engine compartment

Thank fuck it's a "project" vehicle and I have others to use, but damn

Hey man it does it sometimes not all the times, trust me it's good

...

Oops

Assuming you put in a higher grade fuel than it called for.. most higher octane fuels, if your car isn't getting enough air to cause it to combust completely, the unburnt fuel goes through the system without burning. You may see a loss of power, but not a huge amount, it'll only be slightly noticeable in most shitboxes.

You may have other issues.

Same era but it's actually a 1993 Ford Ranger

Good guess

I generally don't give it any gas when I start up, it's a fuel injected engine.

So I don't even know how to fuck with the choke if it has one

That's how my last car got rekt tho.

Make sure it's latched all the way before you drive off.
Alternatively
>aftermarket hood pins

The locking kind so you don't have to worry about the cotter pins falling out either. Just gotta make sure they're pinned before you drive off or the whole thing.

DELET THIS

shit now im worried my shitbox truck hood is gonna take a trip to my windshield, its never closed right and you can see it wobble and bounce around in the wind at highway speeds, but its never gone more than an inch or so

Fairly sure it was, but it doesn't matter now.
Got a new car.

Get it fi

>recently pulled car out of a ditch
>Haven't taken it to the shop yet
>Is that a ticking noise I hear
(^:

Also
>Parking brake works now

>Hit a curb at 3mph while driving in the snow
>Impact bent one of the two lower control arms
>Replaced it myself and had the car realigned at a local garage I know and trust
>Still feel like I notice the car swaying at medium speeds
>Pretty sure it's all in my head and I'm being paranoid
>Have my father drive my car to see what he thinks.He's been a professional automotive mechanic for very nearly 30 years and drives the same model car as me ('98 BMW E39) so his opinion should put any doubt to rest
>He says he doesn't notice anything out of the ordinary

I still have a slight fear the car might career left (side that had the bent control arm) at high way (and higher) speeds.

Won't it cause engine damage when it blows? Perhaps it's wise to replace it preventively..

>timing chain has around an inch of slack
>makes grinding noise at 800-900 rpm
>sounds like a bunch of ping-pong balls falling down some wood stairs on cold startup
>been this way for 20,000 miles
>warm it up at 1500rpm every time
>no time at all to repair it because pass side head needs to be resurfaced as well in the process

>accelerating
>cloud of grey smoke in rear view mirror

what car is it?

hood pins are another option.

>driving my dad's f150
>hood visibly wobbles at both edges at highway speeds

I get so fucking paranoid driving that piece of shit

I already experienced brake failure once while stopping at a red traffic light. Teflon weared out completely, with NO warning. Fortunately the last remnants allowed the car to slow down from 85 km/h to human walking speed.

I managed to complete my ride back to home very slowly and gently, using the (manual) transmission to slow down.

It happened about 20 years ago, but still remember that nightmarish, bass metal-grinding roaring.

>small rust spots that have the potential of getting worse
>when a leak appears then when you go to take a closer look on the weekend its gone and you have no idea if or when it'll appear again
>worrying about not torquing suspension down enough or stripping threads so it'll come apart and kill you on the touge

>audible squeak around 3-4k rpm where pitch is affected by throttle
>battled a misfire and never changed the crank angle sensors as most guides suggested
>oil around cylinder 5's ignition coil but never bothered to check it after cleaning it

Legacybro from Oregon, is that you? I thought the car was all good?

I had two lug bolts next to each other snap (4x100 btw) down the freeway going 70 mph. Most violent shaking I've ever experienced.

It's not carbed, so has no choke.

The whiny PS pump is just "normal." Can be remedied with a Saginaw power steering pump.

The rear main seal probably *is* leaking, it's a common issue. It could also be a valve cover gasket. I just did both on my Bronco.

The misfire *could* be due to the PCV system. I know on the 5.0s and 5.8s the PCV was set up so that it dumped all of the shit into the rear of the intake manifold, and all of it went into cylinder #8. It could be similar dickery on the I4/V6 in the Ranger.

Pulling to the right is, unfortunately, "normal" again for Ford trucks of this era. I don't recall what the actual issue/fix was, unfortunately.

The misfire and cold start stall *could* be caused by some dickery with your fuel injectors. I know that since I serviced mine (took them out, replaced all of the O Rings, pintle caps, basket filters, and nylon spacers then ran carb cleaner through them both ways) I haven't had the cold start stalling, but it was intermittent at best before I did this, and it may just not have had the right conditions to pop up again. I do know that changing the fuel filter did not fix it, but it needed to get replaced anyway.

You may also want to service your throttle body/Idle Air Controller. It's worth noting that you should *NOT* use anything except "Throttle Body Cleaner" on the Throttle Body. I can't find solid information on exactly why, but Ford seems to have put some sort of coating on the butterfly valves or the bores they sit into that is destroyed by anything but throttle body cleaner.
There's some small bit of information here; f150forum.com/f4/throttle-body-cleaning-question-94197/ buttt I'd take anything said there with a grain of salt. That being said, I found out that throttle body cleaner sold by CRC was like 90% acetone by volume, so I went and bought a big bottle of nail polish remover (100% acetone) and a nylon brush and went to town and nothing has exploded yet. Your mileage may vary

Thanks for the info friend, that's all good to know.

I have cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner. I think the butterfly is teflon coated or something and other cleaners will ruin that finish.

Typically the stall process goes
>turn key
>engine struggles to fire
>engine fires
>revs to 1500ish
>comes down to below 1000
>engine chugs
and then I usually just turn it off, let it sit for a second and then turn it over again without any issues. If I do give it gas after it turns over the first time, that'll keep it from stalling. It only happens once however and once it dies the first time it doesn't do it again.

I haven't cleaned or replaced the PCV so I may do that and see where it takes me. If I keep having the problem I may dick around with injectors. No issues with the coil or wires, I replaced those with a DUI performance deal. I think that the pulling issue is because of the TTB suspension when it becomes misaligned.

Good to know about the steering pump and the oil leak though. Definitely helps narrow down what's wrong with it.

>Reverse car out of driveway in the morning
>Gently apply the brakes
>EEEEEEhhheeeeeeeehhrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
>Every morning
>Brakes function normally and make no noise under any other circumstance

>Pulls to the right
>rear brakes don't work
>emergency brake disconnected midway
>slight ticking noticeable with windows down
>slight oil leak on drivers valve cover
>EGR system has never worked
>seat belt doesn't retract or even hold well
>drivers buckle doesn't work so i have the center seat buckle pulled over
>toolbox not mounted to bed
>intake manifold gaskets are garbage
>tires almost bald and out of alignment
>noticeable mechanical whine
>hard time starting if i don't prime the fuel pump
>Shocks squeal when i hit a bump
>fuel pump whines incessantly
>Backup light only works when it wants to
>Probably more i cant remember

Send help

>jack car up
>lower it onto jack stands
>car continues to drop until its resting on its tires
>jack stands have gone right through the lift points and straight through the floor boards
its ok I didn't really need to do the brakes anyways

Keep in mind, all of my experience is with my Bronco and shit that I've found as a result of the issues, so take everything with a grain of salt. It may be worth taking the throttle body off entirely and servicing it that way. Once I pulled mine off, it was just caked in nastiness, as were the IAC's air passages. Cleaning that all up can only be a good thing. Regarding the PCV, it's not the valve itself, but where it dumps stuff into the intake manifold that's the issue. Ford's official recommendation for the V8 was to drill a new hole into the intake, and tap it with threads to reroute the PCV so it went to all cylinders rather than just #8. I'd do some research for Ranger specific PCV "fixes" if I were you, because they may very well have fixed that problem in your specific application. It may be that that's not causing your misfire at all. I can't really weigh in on the TTB misalignment, because I haven't fucked with that at all. I'm actually dreading dropping my oil pan because of it. I believe rangerstation is an active website than may help you out a bit with this sort of stuff. Best of luck, senpai.

It burns oil like my ex burns coal

That satellite

Bitch please.

>>EGR system has never worked
Should be a cause for relief, bae. That shit is NASTAY. Not eco-friendly, but your engine won't be slowly anheroing itself

>Shitting where you eat

My biggest fear
>Live in Michigan
>salt
>Salt
>SALT
>FOR THE LOVE OF GOD STAHP SALTING THE FUCKING ROADS IT'S APRIL

clock your tie rods a 1/4 turn.. but gitgud before you try this

Good goyim... tolerate that noise until your warranty period expires and it turn into a real issue!

Does that to me in my automatic Xterra and don't know what it is
It also makes a similar noise when I'm idiling at a stop light but it only does it sometimes

Illinoisfag here.

please make it stop

they're still salting