/hg/ 本田

Finally got that first coat down on the body gentlemen. Already looking better than that faded ass black from the FL sun.

Are Honda Civics reliable cars?

So, if I'm ever desperate for a CAI, I would need this.

And I'm not desperate.

Or this.

Apparently it cost more to avoid getting a CEL and shitty gas mileage.

But this isn't your normal Civic. It's a Type R from the 90s. I was just wondering if it would be a good daily.

It's just a not-as-slow, slightly-less-reliable Honda Civic.

It will still last longer than a BMW.

Thanks, guys. I washed the shit out of my car today, too.
We /clean/ now.

New collage pic for the green 00 Civic, by the way.
Also, don't worry, the bumper is temporary. I'm searching for a color matched one every day.

Where did you get that from anyways?

Old one looks better desu

It's more stiff than your average civic
If done professionally it should be reliable
20-25mpg

>no roof booth
Wew

Will update fám
Your civic is looking good BTW

Never bought it, but he got it from tunerdepot.

Thanks! Will look into this EK9 soon.

Breh, tell me about it. I did the bumpers and it was mandatory wetsanding the whole thing to get the bugs and crap out. Going to take forever for the body.

Looking nice brother!

>this pops up in my FB memories
Damn my car used to look so much better. RIP

Hey guys. My ignition lock hasn't worked ever since I got the car, and since a tweaker busted it even further, I'd like to use a push button and switch setup where the radio used to be. I've ordered the toggle switches and will get the S2K button, but first, does anyone know where I could get a custom or OTS metal (preferably anodized) plate I can drill the holes for the switches on?

Currently my only option seems to be to get the stock plastic radio blank but it's unaesthetic.

I have a '93 Accord and can measure it out if need be--I'm hoping to spend less than $50 on a panel though with the appropriate hardware. Should I use a double DIN kit and attach it to there, or is there another means of securing it that you guys might recommend?

Yes, I will be using other means of disabling the car so it's not completely vulnerable. Thanks again guys.

Car gave it a hell of a shot but I couldn't finish my shift without the temp getting into risky levels. Started the day at an average of 170F, then as the day went on the average went higher and higher. Jumped the radiator fan to keep it on and it helped for about an hour but it wasn't enough. Way too much air in the system now. I'm gonna tear it apart tomorrow hopefully and find the source of the problem.

Is it possible for it to be the intake manifold at all? The air getting into it is clean. Coolant still looks brand new and isn't contaminated with exhaust at all.

I wouldn't bother with getting a kit if you have the skills to just fab the mount yourself and have it attach via whatever type of fastener you choose (visible screws on outside, magnets, metal velco, cabinet hardware, etc.) Inventables has 12x12 inch anodized plates for $29. Personally I would just grab a sheet of steel from Home Depot, coat it in an enamel or vinyl wrap, and clear coat it. They should have a size large enough to do the mounts and the front for ~6-8 dollars. All double din stuff should be about 7"x4".

Are you not going to be having a stereo at all in it? Because a single din would fit and you could put all your switches on a plate in the bottom tray. Also there's this for $11 from China

The only place coolant is involved on the intake manifold would be the Fitv if you have one or the Iacv. I don't really see how you'd get air in either.

Time for oil change i guess.
How bad are Bosch filters?

Should be fine, I use whatever cheap shit the oil place gives and run my 5000 miles with no leaks.

It's the biggest mystery.

>air getting in somehow
>not exhaust since it's not making the coolant dirty
>oil is clean

I do hear air getting sucked in somewhere that I haven't figured out yet but that may be an isolated problem. When I turn the car off and rest my foot on the brake I can feel it pushing my foot off the brake.

It's the securing I've been curious about. There's a plate that I found for miata tombstones so I'm going to send them an email and see how they mount it. I'm thinking about putting in L-plates on the back and securing it to the dash that way.

I'd like to have a head unit, but I don't want it to get stolen, so I'm going to be buying a discrete bluetooth receiver that will output to an amplifier under the seat or in the trunk to play music to. My dad has a bluetooth receiver unit, about the size of a small phone, hooked up to his ghetto rigged home stereo which is how he manages to listen to music throughout the house.

As for powering it on/off, a simple switch will do to cut both, I figure.

You'll be fine. I splurged for K&N for my last change though because I keep going for around 5k miles without a change, plus there's dust of the piston rings breaking in still around. Oops.

>Every time dad is passenger he turns off my open door light, turns off my vent positioning, and tries to turn off climate control to the inbetween of rec and fresh
fuck man leave my car alone

Changed knock sensor about 350 miles ago. Connector fell off so I soldered on a length of wire to the wire the connector was on, then soldered on the new connector to that wire. Made it easier to maneuver. CEL came back on today with knock sensor code. My brother is the one who soldered the connector to the wire and it was a pretty shit job. Gonna have to see if I can get a new dupont connector and make an actual good connection and hopefully that fixes it. Erased the code and went driving for a little, car is noticeably jumpy, like it's fighting for gas at times.

Gotcha, Yeah then I'd have it screw from the front onto a brace you could fab up easily. Simplest solution. You could use security screws if you want.

Another option is to affix the sheet metal to the plastic blank. Then you wouldn't have to work about making anything to hold it

Been thinking of a hatchback or a prelude as a first car; advice on buying either?

I'd get the hatch because prelude tax and muh night kids.

Hold me boys, I am picking up that '93 Honda Accord LX for $400 either tomorrow or the day after, and I am bouncing off the walls in excitement. Will post pictures when I officially get it in my hands.

Stock car save for some minor things like a new battery, and a new timing/serpentine belt (can't remember which one he said it was), upgraded headlights from the plastic housing to glass, potentially only two owners but could have been more.

243k miles. And despite the price tag and miles, it is a very clean and straight car. Baby'd as fuck by the current owner and only used pretty much to go to and from work, so I can expect it to last awhile before I would have to think about a new motor.

That mileage is nothing if the engine isn't worn and pushing a shit ton of blowby when you check it, I've seen worn out motors with like 100k because lack of oil changes.

Yeah the engine has had basic maintenance done, however my step dad and his friend, and cousin are all certified mechanics, and have access to a shop with tons of tools.

So we plan on taking apart the engine bay almost to get a closer look at everything there is.

Is that blind spot detection making that annoying beeping sound?

>tfw let dad drive her and he misses his shifts and does them too early, making a bumpy ride

Last time he ever sat in the drivers' seat, it's been three years. I only let like, three other passengers in my car now. Everyone else is a hard no.

Ye, I'll take a look into a double DIN solution and hopefully it won't get jacked easily. I'll definitely be using security screws countersunk for maximum aesthetics.

Nice find. Mine has at least 350k (est.) miles (bad odo), but rebuilt the engine 5k miles ago because my uncle and my dumbass turned the main crankshaft bolt the wrong way and had it shear off inside. Keep it clean, and post pics.

Also, anyone else with early Hondas, specifically CB7s that, on a cold start, make a noise like a duck being deflated after you drive it a few dozen meters?

I will definitely. Will be posting pics of it when I get it in my possession, and once I detail it inside and out.

Hey s2k owners
Is the s2k easy to power slide in 1st or 2nd gear when it's wet outside? I think I wanna get an s2k for my third car desu.

What does it look like now?

You should've kept adding coolant until the were no more bubbles or burping

>not oem
Wew

Tell your dad politely to not touch it next time

Why not just replace the knock sensor?

Cheers m8
Can't wait to see it, is it your first car ever?

Yes it is.

Yeah I did that forever the other day. Something is filling the system with air. Gonna find out what's doing it tomorrow I hope.

Where did you coolant go then?

I replaced the knock sensor. Knock sensor shouldn't die in 350 miles.

That's what I'm wondering. I haven't found any leaks and my broken rad cap held too much pressure and didn't reveal any leaks. New rad cap is OEM and working perfect.

It's disappearing into another dimension.

I say keep filling it lol that's what I did with my supra

I would but it's filling with air way too quick. I couldn't even finish my shift today so I got off early.

have you considered using dye or something to find out if theres a leak?

I think the minnesota-->chicago user did something like that with his oil in a past video

my money is still on headgasket

I'll most likely give that a shot. Been parking in clean spots and haven't noticed anything, though.

If we can't figure it out, I think it's best to just take it to a shop to diagnose it. The hunt for the source of the problem is the worst thing.

finally got the new motor unloaded. feeling comfy

The CB7 I had didn't have that issue.

its perfect lads

>29k miles
>$3k

definitely worth it but definitely needs a lot of work

thinking about selling the '08 civic and picking this up.

Tired of DDing a boring shitbox and want something slightly less safe and a lil more fun

forgot to add links

hartford.craigslist.org/cto/6121640436.html

newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/6122442564.html

that shit is so broken lol

?

bump

My brother says iridium spark plugs are garbage. I don't know why he says this. My car calls for ngk laser iridium spark plugs and he says not to get them. Why wouldn't I?

I'd grab them since your car's already got them.

Jack slid off position and peirced interior what do?

just buy what owners manual says

u wut

;-;

Hammer it back, cover it with the carpet, and forget it exists.

Did you puncture the metal? Hard to tell from this picture

If you did, have a muffler shop or your buddy weld it sealed so it doesnt leak and spray some under body coating so it doesnt rust.

Puncture. Leveled it with heat gun. Would bondo work for filling it on the underside?
Pic of current condition.

Don't use bondo. If you want to do it right, pay the 30-50 bucks to get it welded; hell, make a craigslist ad

What about chem weld?

I have no idea.

Is there some reason why you don't want to weld it?

youtube.com/watch?v=sPRa6IDMxD8&t=66s
You get to choose today.

Ill just jb weld it then.

I changed oil. Filter was half the size of new filter. Also full synthetic was cheap

anyone have any experience with ka9 acura rls?

Nice tampons hanging in the mirror.

What is it gonna be sitting in?

>not stock

Probably needs a lot of work
That's pretty good 9/10

Is that a Honda Z?

Is he a poor fag?

Holy shit you're did that happen? Rookie mistake?

Welp, just compression tested the B18B1 in my Integra.
~180 psi on all cylinders except for one, which has about 90 psi. I could see oil on top of the piston, and when I did a wet compression test the reading was higher. Should I worry about this or just keep driving it until I get an engine swap sorted out?

That photo isn't a good one too begin with

Did you check the dipstick when you topped it off?

RLS? Those things existed?

I'd drive until the cylinder is so dead you get a shit on of blowby and you can hear a compression skip when it's cranking over.

How is it running? If it runs fine just keep checking oil level and do the engine swap when sorted.

It's been running OK, aside from fouling a spark plug in the low compression cylinder (number 2) on the interstate. However today it threw misfire codes for cylinders 1 and 2. I have a feeling that this issue is unrelated though, gonna look into it this weekend.

rls as in plural RL

I don't know what the fuck I'm looking at.

not sure. maybe just build it for boost

at 400 bucks i didnt need a reason to buy it

fuck i must have a curse or something
air mysteriously disappeared in front right tire. fuck