/CCG/ - Classic Car General

What's wrong with a 300zx?

2/whatever people want

I bought this tailgate to make a bench with. I'll post results in the next week or so.

Also had a dude offer to buy my Impala yesterday. If the numbers are right I'm thinking about letting it go and getting something a little more fun to drive. Bigger engine, manual.

Oh, leaf springs came in for the Polara today. They came with just a shipping label on the actual springs through UPS. Surprised the hell out of me, since I was expecting a box. The garage should be starting work on it within a day or two.

Nice. You thinking something like a Nova or mustang or what?

Welp, got the new heater hoses, and the heater core, as well as the new heater plenum, still hard to think they made the originals out of fiberboard. Also got defroster hoses to, horn spring and waiting on the horn ring retainers I ordered.

Also gassed the car with raid, because fuck black widows.

An air rifle without a pellet works wonders on spiders.

>mfw i start my car and could just feel the hate from my neighbors
its not my f-fault its so loud

Hi, that's probably the biggest meme question ever, but what is a good website or contact to import a Mysterious Hachi-Roku ? I honestly want one even if I know it's an old and slow car.
I'm really fearing the whole import aspect but since it's one of the only way to get one i really want to know how I can acquire one.
i'm not in a rush, I just want to know what is the better way of findinf and buying one.
Any import stories would help a lot.

Which thread are we using?

To be honest I don't know, when I made my thread earlier there was no other, then I saw like 5 mins later there was 2, not sure which one was first.

This one my dude

One of the most Badass cars out there in my opinion is a 70 GTO I stay hard whenever I drive one.
A 1970 Swinger is also an awesome car...so is a 69 mustang boss 302...and a 69 nova...and a cutlass...and 70 satellite...and a 70 rambler..and a 68 cuda... I could list cool cars for days

I don't care what anybody says, I like those Mustang IIs

I figured out that the second groove on the pulley is a bit better in line but I don't think I'll be able to fit a second belt at all, maybe I can move the power steering pump but then It'll probably make the alternator too far out... ugh I dunno why my shit's so fucked up lol
i.imgur.com/NxXb7nX.jpg
i.imgur.com/dHzT2RF.jpg the power steering pump appears to be using a nut as a spacer but I dunno what to do besides just keep the setup I have on it and make sure to keep an extra fan belt in the trunk just in case.

It's not classic related, but it is car related and I'd rather ask you guys than the other tards on this board. I had a weird one at work today. One of our good customers has his G37 towed in because it died. Get it in the shop, engine is locked solid both ways, cannot turn it over by hand. It had oil. He always has the oil changed on time with Nissan Ester synthetic. Car hasn't been ragged on or driven through high water to my knowledge.

The engine is locked up as if the main bearings fucking welded themselves to the crank. We drained the oil and found bearing material in the sample. Not shattered parts found or large chunks. Just a lot of bearing material.

What the fuck would cause that? This one has me stumped, unless there's a factor at play I don't know of.

Sounds like the oil pump stopped chooching for some reason.

Modern manufacturing techniques and QC are pretty damn good but there's always a chance of mechanical failure

Well your belt/alternator should be lined up with the last pully, But hey if it works it works.

wichita.craigslist.org/cto/6133801788.html
indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/6191941164.html
southbend.craigslist.org/cto/6190352043.html
phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/6167188610.html
found these on the old list

Is my BX considered classic round by Veeky Forums's standards?
26 years and counting and for the locals it's pretty classic.

I'm having some issues with metallic clunk sounds mostly when I stop hard accelerating and also when changing from reverse and forward motions.

I'm not sure where the sound comes from but it sounds like its from the wheels and suspension area

I'm thinking something mid-size. I'm a GM guy but that isn't any kind of deal breaker honestly. I like Mopars, too. I should probably just call the guy and see what he's going to offer before I really get ahead of myself.

Yeah that does sound like a likely culprit given the circumstances. Just seems so odd that it would give out, I've never seen an oil pump give out on one of these cars. Customer didn't say he saw the oil light come on, but he could have missed it I suppose.

My "classic"
1984 Ford F250, 6.9 IDI Diesel.
>Clunkytruckfourspeed
>MuhAxleWrap
>Muhcoal
>Muhoilsmoke
>MuhIndependantfrontsuspension
>Muh79.5MphTopSpeed

I swear these aren't the right alternator or power steering mounts for a 79 trans am. Could you post a picture of the alternator mount again? It honestly looks a lot like it's off of something else since the trans am ones look to be a bit closer toward the water pump pulley and shouldn't the adjustment for the alternator be on top and not on the bottom like mine is? i.imgur.com/7RMrWO2.jpg

i got the shitter stuck

ill post the 403 from the 71 olds when I get my phone charge back up, the mounts should be the same.

I'll ask my dad tomorrow he is a Pontiac expert so he should probably know whats up.

I am thinking about seriously selling the 69 to buy a beater. I am starting an internship as a high school teacher soon and do not want some kid to fuck with my car.

phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/6167188610.html

Holy shit, my truck is faster than someone. My ferd hits 83

alrighty, thanks! Even though it's the same engine in pictures of olds 403s in trans am's it still shows it having a similar mount to the Pontiac 400. With alternator sitting high, more centered and having the adjustment nut on top. The power steering pump seems to be close on that second groove so maybe If I do have the wrong mount I can get the proper one and it'll work.... hopefully, I just want to drive my car lol

Ok my phone is fucking up right now, ill get a better picture of the 403 in the 71 olds and ill get a picture of a pontiac 400 from a 70 GTO. The brackets should be close to my knowledge but I could be wrong. Just tell me what angles you want and ill try and use my non existent photographer skills to take them.

In other news My dads 65 GTO project has been sidelined until me and my brothers go back to college. The 73 and 78 Firebirds are now taking top priority in our small garage .

Just the views of the alternator bracket and how it mounts. Same with the power steering. Also thanks again for trying to help me un fuck my shit up.

>Fitech
How is that thing? I'm very interested in that company

Yeah, she's no speed demon, I need more rear gear, in fourth at 65 on the highway I'm turning 3100 rpm, not a big deal if it was a gasser but my Diesel isn't exactly happy with the constant rpm

Do you have the 4.11s? I've got those in my Dana 60 and buzzes at about the same speed on the highway. This 300 doesn't really much higher either

No problem m8

I am not impressed so far, was a pain to install, we had to grind down a few pieces to get the thing mounted right and then we had problems getting it working. I like carbs in old cars better on principle though it gives them character.

I'm not 100% sure honestly. The two gear sets they put in my model year are either 3.55s or 4.10s, I'm assuming I've got the 4.10s but that's mainly just me guessing

I've got 4.10s and I'm pulling the same Rpms. They're both Dana 60s, you should be about to tell from the stampings and if it still has it the plate underneath.
That's a bummer. I really liked the premise of their kits

Jesus Kit Kat you had 100 people telling you the FiTech wasn't what it was advertised as being. This shouldn't come as a surprise

My Chevelle's wiring is garbage and a guy on FB is offering me a universal GM harness from Painless for $300. Should I hit that or try and pull something from a junkyard?

I had a hundred people tell me fuel injection was not a cost effective upgrade. No one at that point had any experience with the actual product

>the truck is not starting again

This doesn't negate the fact that you refuse to take advice.

Mostly true

1st picture is a olds 350
2nd/3rd is an olds 403
4/5th is a pontiac 400

...

imgur.com/a/gwj7h
>forgets link

Kek. Patiently awaiting the picture of your truck on a flatbed with coolant all over the place and a broken electric water pump. Maximum kek.

Have a picture of my truck on a flatbed from a completely failed ground

Kek. I'm sure that will be my bronco someday. It'll be the rear driveshaft that gets me. I completely went through the electrical system. I had to replace the front driveshaft because the slip joint had to much play and was one short trip away from grenading. The rear driveshaft has some minor play, and I'm still sore from having to shell out $450 for the front one. That's the one thing that will bite me, and I'm prepared to face that. That or my engine will lock up when my already worn main bearings decide to give it up.

is that a fucking longboard in there

Old harnesses are trash. Get good with wiring and use the kit. Learn to make good soldered and crimped (use bare terminals and heat shrink, not those awful sleeved crimp connectors at most auto stores) and you'll be fine.

Here or on real vehicle forums? If you rely on Veeky Forums for serious information without cross-checking it so thoroughly you wouldn't need to be here in the first place, consider suicide.

For the Ford truck, you need nowhere but the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forums.

Ponton b/o/y reporting in!

Fuel tank: out
Hard lines: out
Rear seat: out
Hood:off
Now it's time to:
Clean fuel tank
Run new lines
Buy glow plugs somewhere
And track down some bigger injectors
Oh and turn up the fuel pump

Now you know to always replace both battery cables when you get an old truck and to also do any ground straps.

hai guise.

'83 Grand Marquis, '84 Town Car, '85 Country Squire, '85 Ranger and '91 Grand Marquis here.

No classics in that list. Move along
Euro crap, move along

>no classics
>classic at 25
newest car listed is 26. you move along.

Hey thanks for the input! I'll try that out!

>no u

Yep
It's destined to happen to any Ford. Remember, Ford stands for, "fix it again tonight"

This is extremely true. FTE is a goat forum

I didn't mean something out of a period-correct car, I meant something like out of a Crown Vic or similar

GTFO fuck face. All classics of age are welcome.

Polara was up on the lift today. I dropped off the springs and shackles. It's pretty crusty underneath but the mechanic says he's fixed worse. He's guessing they'll have it patched up early next week.

They just gonna cut it out and patch in new steel?

That's the plan. Probably won't be inspection worthy, but it will be safe. Which is fine. because I don't need an inspection anyway.

dont get me started on stripping paint

never
a g a i n

What's some standard maintenance to do when you get a new-old car?

Aside from replacing fluids. I'm thinking of rebuilding the carter bbs, and I've been alternately told to use seafoam in the tank, soak the carb in starter fluid overnight, or spray seafoam in the carb while the engine is warm and running... I'm just wary of additives so wondering what you guys typically do. The new truck is pretty hard starting right now. Going to replace the fuel filter first.

It's over fucking rated. I stripped my hood and that was it, I'm fuckin out. I'm getting the dad of a tech at work that I've been mentoring to do it all. He's going to strip and paint for 1500. And he'll probably throw in bondo and block sanding for another 500-1000. Killer fucking deal.

lost this thread. anyway here's the daily

and the new disaster i'm planning to revive

>go to pull out of garage
>cant_turn.png
So it looks like my PS pump shaft has maybe a 1/4" of play in and out when you turn left or right. It was fucked before because I had a really bad leak (didn't tighten the fitting) so I figured it was that, today I went to turn out the driveway and I still couldn't fucking turn.

I'm just going to buy a new pump but man I'm pissed, I thrashed to get this shit buttoned up today for a car show and I got fucked

What state are you in? Texas doesn't inspect frame work (for whatever fucking reason).

All the filters and fluids. You'd be surprised at how cheap new fuel tanks are, look at LMC truck. All your brakes: master cylinder, calipers, and wheel cylinder; just fucking replace them, your life will thank you when the pedal doesnt go to the fucking floor. Make sure all of your suspension joints and bushings are tight and greased; replace any that are significantly loose. Check driveshaft u-joints, replace if loose. It's expensive, but replace any dry rotted or otherwise unworthy tires; blowouts are fucking scary, trust me. If the radiator even looks like it might leak, replace it, the water pump, and the heater core at the same time; depending on your engine design, the timing cover might have to come off and be resealed. Belts, replace if dry or cracked. Check your alternator output, should be 13-14 volts; replace if not. Go through the wiring system. Clean up or replace any rusty terminal ends. Patch any stripped or broken wires. Check all your electrical grounds: battery, engine block, frame, body. Check horn grounds (usually grounded through the horn body. If corroded or loose, that can cause nasty high resistance and fry some shit when you use it, but that goes for all grounds. Grounds are VERY important, and the cause of most electrical failures in old cars are corroded or loose grounds.) Silicone grease is very good to use on electrical connectors and grounds. Old cars had the wiring harnesses run and hung pretty shitty. Zip tie, wrap, and protect the harnesses from rubbing through on anything or moving around excessively. Check all your lights, repair as needed. Check for water leaks, repair as needed.

That should keep you busy for now.

That thing is fucking sick. Can you even find wood panel wagons from the 80's in decent shape anymore?

I saw this 80's Buick wagon that had the original burgundy paint with wood panels, what a fucking dream. I'd love to get one of these boats

What's the plan for your's?

Also, in what way is it hard starting?

Requires slightly excessive finicking with the choke to get started, I know slants take a long while to warm up but it sometimes dies if I don't give it enough gas when getting in gear. After about 5 mins the problem goes away. I'm just assuming the carb is gummed up a bit because it sat baking in the heat on the side of the road for god knows how long. The difference in the paint inside and outside is astounding

they're just giant vinyl wrap pieces basically. you can get new stuff but in my case I'm not planning to do much to it cosmetically.

guy gave me it for free, I'm in the hole a couple hundred bucks in transport costs hauling it home. needs a little bit of everything, but frame is solid so I think it's worth saving.

I'm figuring $1200 (Canadian) from now until road-ready. could be less if it doesn't need an engine. electrical issues, can't run currently. guy told me it had a knock, but as soon as I saw the distributor (cranked around all the way sideways, has to be like 30 degrees off correct base timing) I figured there was a chance it was spark knock.

worst case, it needs an engine, grab a junkyard 5.0 for not a lot and get it going.

this is the worst of the rust. nice thing is because of where it is, repair doesn't need to look pretty to get it past inspection.

WHY WONT HE TEXT ME BACK REEEEEEE

southbend.craigslist.org/cto/6190352043.html

Also this may be a stupid question but all the fuel filters I've replaced the tanks were empty. Do people really pull the fuse for the fuel sender and crank the engine to relieve fuel pressure or can I just clamp the lines shut either side of the filter like I've always done

I highly doubt that's real at all

Also this is a 400 from a 78 trans am

Its not a real boss (see auto shifter) but its still a fastback.

If it exists, you're pretty much just buying a vin plate at that point desu

M8.....

Fug, posted in the wrong thread...

Towed my great grandfathers 1952 Ford F1 pickup out of the rotting farmhouse garage a few weeks back and gave it a proper new home in the shop. It was last plated in 1974 and I assume it has been sitting there ever since.

I want to try and get the engine un-stuck and I'm heading up there this weekend to crack the spark plugs off and dump some penetrating oil into the cylinders.

Are there better ways to approach this? Anything else I should take a look at while I'm at it? I DD an old 80's Jap shitbox so I'm no stranger to repairs, but I've never wrenched on anything this old.

Legit sad right now

Sorry friend. Hope you don't get scammed

Cardinal rule of craigslist, if it looks to good to be true it usually is

Or if it looks too good to be true, reverse image search it.

I am normally an in person auction guy but I have been looking for a car that I could fix up to DD. Thanks and wish me luck.

Yup that's the mount I was thinking of and my shit's all fucked up. The power steering pump leans to the passenger side rather than the drivers side and the mounts are totally different. I wonder if I can find that specific mount if my ps pump will work and of course putting a new alternator mount. Also random but I wonder who makes any cool looking valve covers for olds 403's summit just has chrome ones from edelbrock.

just spray paint yours olds gold