QTDDTOT - argument edition

EXPLAIN YOURSELF

Car stood undriven for a year.
Got it back on the road and the brakes feel like shit.
Ho do I make them good again with killing myself trying? (bonus for a no cost option)

How does this look?
Is it too edgy?
merrjep.al/Njoftimi/Shitet/Durrës/AUTOMJETE/Makina/BMW/Seri-3/320/BMW-320CD-coupe-diesel/4337453

PB blast, brake clean or WD 40 maybe some combo?

bleed the brakes and spray the rotors with lods of brake clean

Been driving manual for 7 months but I'm still shit at it and haven't been actively improving it for a while.
>starting in first still isn't completely smooth or quick
Oh well.
When down shifting w/ rev match so you guys just dump the clutch ? I feel like I feather it too much and miss the point. I probably feather it too much in general desu.

>killing myself trying?

Copper slip then get it up to highway speeds and do some emergency stops.

is it strange to want to swap a center console shifter for a column shifter? I need space in my car for a laptop dock and the shifter will get in the way
it's a jeep, so I don't think it would help much, since the handbrake and transfer case shifter would still be there

>I need space in my car for a laptop

>How does this happen?
After the first bolt came loose, it stated to rattle. Fag kept driving. Then it fell out. Fag kept driving. Then the rest of the bolts started to come out and eventually sheared off. Now fag is stuck.

>i need space in my car for a laptop dock
why would you need this

wardriving autism

Why does my car attract ants?
>don't eat in your car
I don't, I only see the fuckers in my cabin occasionally, most of the time they're on the exterior and in/around panel gaps. Some of my coworkers experience the same shit with their cars, so I think there has to be a bigass colony around our works parking lot or something.

How can I keep these assholes away from my car?

Power is the amount of work done so it depends on power actually, brainlet

Some euro cars have wiring insulation that is food grade and edible.

Put some of those jelly like ant traps down with tape. Worked for me, got rid of them in less than a week

bumpers and window trim
no hatch no pillars

if it's dead please drop off at my house thanks

i want your car

Alright so I overheated my engine and I think it blew. My question is the damage repairable? It started making a horrible sound, loss of power and lots of blue smoke from the exhaust. Obviously can't start it up anymore but I could move the car a little bit on the starter motor

take the head off and post pics

I'm planning on taking it out this weekend but it might be a while

what's stopping you from doing it now, pussy?

Junkyard engine for $250.

It's always the torque peak. The power peak means jack shit when it comes to raw acceleration

So long as your tires can grip, most acceleration can be had when the tires force and acceleration are at their peak which is torque peak

youtube.com/watch?v=CxK0x7AE3s8

youtube.com/watch?v=zZBqb0ZJSwU

>believing this hungry skeleton knows what he is talking about

I'm an American and the vehicle is an '07 chevy Monte Carlo if that matters

>280Nm of torque at 1rpm
>that's way more than my integra so I may as well swap the k20z1 for this and shift at 1rpm for max acceleration

...

i heard that my 2010 bimmer 523i is just a electronically restricted 528i and that i could make my car into essentially a 528i with a ecu reprogramming. Is there any sense for me to squeeze out 60hp and 70nm of torque for 500€?

No that sounds like bs. Higher trim bimmers are usually the same design of engine but made of different materials, and hence allow for better redline, porting ect

thats like saying an engine produces more power at peak torque because it has the most torque.

Torque means jack shit. Its work that we're interested in, and work has a time component (rpm) which is why max power and max acceleration will always be at a higher engine speed than peak torque

...

So my oil is dirty as fuck and is causing my vvt thing to be retarded
Is there any problem putting in regular dino juice if I don't drain the full synth in the oil filter?
I only have like 1-2k miles on my current filter and Ill be changing it again (properly) in like 300 miles

>2.3 is just electronically restricted 2.8
i'm not entirely sure if that's how physics works

>The "virgin oil change"

drain it you pussy

they are both 3.0l

f = ma
tq is rotational force
so accn is proportional to force
this is basic kiddie physics

>torque wins races, horsepower sells cars.

Every. Time.

then other question
If I'm going to be draining it should I just replace it with a cheapo filter?
Or is it worth the $3-4 more for a better filter for only 300 miles

if you don't buy the cheapest filter available, you love sucking Jew cock

oil filters are just a roll of paper in a metal can

That sounds like what happened with the C300/350 Benzes that had the exact same 3.5 in them

It's the other way around. Whichever dragster has the most power will accelerate the fastest.

Even in the middle of the oil crisis, American v8s that made no power still sold because they had torque. My old man bought his ute because it had the most torque in its class and he tows his boat a lot.

Torque sells cars, power wins races

How are your still accelerating at redline?

decent heads and cam

I went about 100 miles being a quart over the right amount of ATF in my car... level is good now but is there any chance that those 100 miles did damage?

Power relates to speed
Torque relates to acceleration
This is why diesel trucks get off the line very quickly but have little get up and go once they are moving.

Torque is more important when acceleration from a standstill.
Power is more important when accelerating at speed.

Bleed & Flush the brakes, Brake fluid collects water, also your rotors have rusted over and will need to have that removed with a few good brake stomps.

unless you were way above the hash marks no.

alright, which go kart with identical weight would accelerate faster? a go kart with 10 ft-lbs of torque and a redline of 10,000 or a go kart with 20 ft-lbs of torque and a redline of 5,000?

the torque is the same throughout the whole rev range btw

It was at the top end of the hot hashes even when cold

the 20 ft-lb go kart will accelerate faster than the 10 ft-lb one

HOWEVER

How do I get tools for free. Poorfag college student here. I need to test my fuel pressure but I really dont have money to spend on a gauge and am scrapping by with junk parts.
Autozone wants like 150 up front then refunds which I wont have the money for until another 2 weeks. Im tempted to buy one from advanced autoparts, use it, then return it.
Is this a valid method or are they gonna refuse my return.

engines with the same peak power but different torques can each accelerate just as fast but it depends on each's gearings

hope that clears things up :3

just get whorebore fraught tools or equivalent
then return in 30 days
those peons really dgaf and the tools really do break that often
also cheaper initially

b-bump

kek, that's why you see all the manufacturers advertising their huge torque numbers right?

the car i fine looks wise, its just nothing special and likely not a smart decission becuase they tend to break, and quite expensively at that

Exactly

when I want to accelerate fast, I look for pickup trucks

das rite

i just proved you that they use torque numbers to sell cars, not to win races

let me put this into another perspective

would the graph of g-force follow the torque curve or will it follow the power curve?

only brainlets can't figure this one out

realoem says the injectors and fuel rail are the same but the intake manifold is different.

>would a graph follow a curve

>I need space in my car for a laptop
Illegal in my state after the new laws July 2017 against distracted driving. The law changes include updates for use of electronics while stopped in traffic (no, you cannot), stopped at traffic light (no, you cannot), and stopped in parking lot (no you cannot). But if you are parked with your engine off at the side of the road you can. You cannot have visible video and you may not eat or drink while driving. You may not press buttons on a 3rd party GPS unit. Etcetera. Exceptions are made for emergency situations, so you may use your cellphone while driving to report an accident or criminal situation such as gun shots and drunk drivers.

I had a laptop open on my passenger seat. I did NOT touch it and it was NOT showing any video show. But a police officer pulled me over and gave me a warning that looking at it can get me a DUI type ticket the next time. My state has the usual series of DUI of which one is DUIE (Driving Under the Influence of Electronics). If you're texting, watching video, or looking at stuff on your laptop, that apparently is DUIE after July 2017 in washington state. The law also makes it mandatory for all of its violations to be reported to your insurance company. So apparently the officer will check to see if your insurance is current and contact them. If you have a fake insurance card, it's going to reveal you at this stage as having fraudulent documentation.

Well, since I have a warning on my record, I can't afford to have an officer pull me over for any electronics in the future. Or he'll give me a DUIE ticket that my insurance company will hate.

>How can I keep these assholes away from my car?
Poison ant bait traps outside the car near the tires will kill the ants off if they feed it to the queen or queens if fire ants. Darn fire ants can have multiple queens as they can make compatible super colonies.

Ants use scent to make trails. I wonder if Febreze sprayed on the ground next to tires would stop their trail making?

If you anticipate having sludge that plugs up a filter, then get a filter with metal mesh reinforcing every square inch of the filter surface (such as Fram Ultra). When plugged up, some non-reinforced filters will get a hole in the filter media. Purolators do that as mentioned at BITOG forums when people doing their own changes took apart filters and noticed blow through holes.

What if they made a car that never stopped

Yes that is exactly why. I also cited the oil crisis v8 as it was the same here, people still bought vl commodores with the v8 even though the rb30et was better. Simply because of the torque delivery the v8 "feels" powerful so dumb normies lap it up

Are bucket seats Universal Fit or are there specific sizes I have to buy? I would like some for my Micra, but I want to drag them out of some boyracer's wreck in the salvageyard instead of paying full price

My mk1 mr2 has a small vacuum leak that I can't place. It's near the throttle body. What's the worst that can happen if I ignore it? Could it cause overheating?

I bought thinking the diff was broken

this is cheaper

universal usually
just get a tape measure and check if the seat is too tall or wide
reccomend bimarco cobra 2's for cheap seats

Is it rude to laugh at poor people in their shitboxes?

>Is it rude to laugh at poor people in their shitboxes?
Plenty of Christians do just that every day. Even though as Christians, they claim to follow the teachings of Jesus Christ.

>wants acceleration
>looking at single RPM points
if the engine is spinning at a single speed, you aren't accelerating unless you're in a CVT

My rear driver side wheel clunks on bumps an such, passenger front wheel squeeks like mad (suspension) but I have new shocks on all 4. What gives? I dont know much about suspension

Power and torque are related to each other. The formula for calculating power has two variables, one is torque while the other is revolutions per minute.

You might think that one is irrelevant since the other uses/is used by the former, but you'd be wrong. Both of these figures have importance in their own context.

The simplest way I can explain it is that a minimum amount of torque is needed in order to overcome the inherent resistances to movement that are present, like inertia and friction. However, when it comes to how quickly it accelerates, that figure is affected not just by how much torque the engine produces but also how often it produces it, or horsepower.

A normal car might have 300HP and 300ft/lbs of torque. Meanwhile, a semi-tractor truck might have 300HP and 900ft/lbs of torque. The semi-tractor truck would have a much larger displacement engine than the car, but that engine wouldn't work at anywhere near the RPMs the car's engine is capable, hence the difference in torque but not horsepower. The truck needs that torque to overcome the much larger inertia of the trailer and the cargo it hauls around.

Conversely, we could have a theoretical engine that produces 10,000HP and 1ft/lb of torque by having an incredibly low displacement but revving at incredibly high speeds. If you put such an engine in a normal car and attempted to drive it, the car wouldn't move anywhere. Any time you tried to put it into gear, the engine would stall, similar to driving a manual car with a very weak engine without giving it any gas when you try to start from a full stop.

When you put a car into car and release the cluth, the speed of the engine is inherently linked to the speed of the wheels. The crankshaft cannot turn if the wheels cannot turn, or if the wheels cannot BE turned. With such a mismatched engine, the wheels cannot be turned, because each individual combustion in the engine is too weak to overcome the forces resisting movement.

If the engine can't cause the wheels to turn, that means the crankshaft in the engine doesn't turn because the crankshaft is linked to the wheels via the transmission and driveshaft. This causes that piston that just had ignition to stop in place and never get another opportunity to fire.

That's why you need a minimum amount of torque. If you have enough torque to make the vehicle move in its current state, any more torque, without any change in horsepower, provides no benefit. Horsepower is what decides how quickly the vehicle can accelerate once the torque minimum is satisfied.

There is one advantage a higher torque engine has over another engine with the same horsepower. The higher torque engine could reach higher top speeds, since the extra torque will allow it to overcome the wind resistance that grows as speed grows.

The not-technically-accurate-but-easy-to-understand explanation is that torque is the force pushing the vehicle forward and horsepower is torque applied over time, which is affected by how often those pushes occur, as in revolutions per minute.

It would be very painful

To sell trucks, sure

No fuel

1991 F150 dual tanks
Didn't run good in the morning so took car, wouldn't start when I got home

No pressure at fuel rail on from either tank, took line of filter got some gas from both, tried that again today and don't get gas from either tank

Can hear both pumps run as they should, tanks have gas

I've got a bear of a problem that I can't figure out.

Background: I've had the car (2002 Mazda Protege5) 3 years, a year and a half ago approximately the drivers side wheel came off going about 60 km/hr. Surprisingly, after putting the wheel back on the car drove fine. Nothing seemed to be a problem. No work was done at the time.

The last 3-6 months, the car has developed the most ungodly wobble going over bumps or around turns especially above 60 km/hr. Going dead straight, the car pulls a bit (right I believe). It has definitely continued to get worse since I first noticed it.

I jacked up the car by the frame and wiggle tested the wheel. The driver's side front has a lot of play from left to right but none top to bottom; the passenger side is tight.

My immediate thought was the tie rods, but I can't feel or see any play in them or anywhere really except when I grab the wheel or rotor to check for play. That leads me to think it's the wheel bearing, but shouldn't it wobble in every direction then instead of just left right?

Can anybody steer me straight on this?

>stopped in parking lot (no you cannot).
why?

what a shit state

Have you checked for a puddle under the truck?

It applies to cars too. Also see:

Craigslist ad that has everything stock except a short ram intake
Is that considered a red flag/rice?
What mods aren't considered rice when buying from craigslist?

If the wheel came off driving id just replace all that shit. Bearing, tie rod, and ball joint. Theres nothing to it. Idk if that car is fwd or not but if it is check your axle for play and make sure the axlenut is on tighter than the asshole of a passenger on the plane that flew into the twin towers.

Obviously check the lugs too, make sure the threads arnt stripped or anything. ANY sign of wear = replace. Lugs are like a dollar or two, studs are as well, any idiot with a hammer + open ended lug can remove/replace them.

If you do indeed replace your suspension/steering crap, do the other side as well.

if I buy a pre owned certified car, can I trust that the car is in perfect conditions ?

Did you get your truck figured out yet? They have low-pressure fuel pumps in both tanks and a high pressure fuel pump on the rail under the cab if I remember correctly.