Coolant explosion

I did something stupid today and learned something new. Hopefully this is a $5 lesson and not a $1500+ lesson.

Prior to today, I had thought that shifting into neutral to brake made me brake faster, but my friend suggests the feeling in my foot that makes it seem like it brakes better is likely just because of the vacuum actuated brake system and that shifting into neutral is the opposite of helpful.

Not knowing this earlier in the day, I shifted my 3.3L 2009 Chrysler Town & Country into neutral to slow down for a hairpin bend in the road. I accidentally accelerated before shifting back into drive, spiking the RPM and probably rupturing a hose or popping a gasket. I pulled over at the top of the mountain to send a text. When I stopped, pic related was happening and there were coolant drips leading up to where I was parked and a giant puddle underneath. Everything under the hood on the driver's side of the vehicle got soaked in coolant, next picture will highlight that.

What's the best way to identify the problem? I was thinking of picking up some distilled water and dumping it in until I can find the leak, but maybe there's a better way. I have very, very minimal experience with working on vehicles.


tl;dr: I either ruptured a hose or popped a gasket and lost all of my coolant, what's the best way to identify the problem?

Other urls found in this thread:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking
youtu.be/JYJ_lIVdvDo?t=1m9s
youtube.com/watch?v=zR2BboZeLEw
youtube.com/watch?v=DBNyZQD9LD8
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

>Chrysler

its fucked throw it away

Post a pic of where the coolant is leaking from the engine.

Well, it's not from revving the engine.
Open the hood and see where it's from. Then replace that part. It's not difficult.

Sounds like you blew your head gasket opee. Next time you'll think twice before revving up your engine

Why are Chrysler drivers always retarded?

>spiking the RPM
what RPM did you reach before the transmission grabbed?

No vehicle in good condition should pop a coolant hose just from hitting the limiter. It was shit before you did that. Also you're retarded anyway.

>Chrysler
The solution is to buy a vehicle that is not made by Chrysler.

You are retarded.
If you're lucky you just blew a pipe or the cap off the radiator, or maybe you blew a gasket. Try looking at the underside of the oil cap for any signs of coolant in the oil reservoir to see if it's a blown gasket.

>OP autistically fucking around with the gearstick of his automatic
>Hurr it's the car's fault

Kinda rev bombing your transmission like that is bad, but that'll fuck your tranny, not the cooling system. You're probably worrying too much and all it was was an old cracked hose or a shit radiator or something.

Just give the car some water to find the leak, then go from there.

Doesn't change the fact high RPM shouldn't immediately damage anything in a modern car that's otherwise functioning properly. They have limiters built in to prevent damage. WOT shouldn't hurt anything immediately. Either it was broken from previous abuse and OP didn't realize until shit really hit the fan, like those idiots who grind their brakes down to the caliper piston, or the car was shit to begin with.
>CHRYSLER

post pic of under the hood

>this thread

The areas completely drenched in coolant are circled in green. All of the coolant drained out very, very quickly.

My trash can isn't big enough, I need a better solution.

This is what I'm worried about. Next time I will think twice.

Not quite sure. Revving it in the garage right now it goes to 2500. I was trying to accelerate out of a curve while going uphill.

>always retarded
>Also you're retarded
>You are retarded.
Can confirm.

>Try looking at the underside of the oil cap for any signs of coolant in the oil reservoir to see if it's a blown gasket.
In my non-expert opinion there is no sign of coolant in the oil.

OP is a good driver who dindu nothin' wrong, he was turning his driving style around and was going to go to school to be a professional minivan driver.

Will do. I'll be borrowing a vehicle to get some distilled water later tonight.

>Either it was broken from previous abuse and OP didn't realize until shit really hit the fan, like those idiots who grind their brakes down to the caliper piston
This is very possible, the van has 177,000+ miles on the odometer.

Glad you enjoyed it, I know Veeky Forums likes when OP is an irredeemably autistic fuck-up.

Likely your upper radiator hose

you fucking shift an automatic car into neutral when you want to slow down? what the fuck.

only an amerimongrel would be this retarded.

take a closer pic of that area

Refill and watch for leaks or get one of those tools to pressurize the cooling system.

Just to make sure OP you understand in plain English, and it hasn't been states yet the reason why you are retarded for shifting into neutral "to break faster" is that shifting into neutral takes away all the force of the rotating engine parts and transition that work against the momentum of the rolling vehicle slowing it down naturally the way a baseball rolled over a flat level surface will slow down on its own because gravity and the weight of the ball and the momentum of the ball decay in the face of the wind its running into and the friction of the ground. Have you never honestly let off the gas and felt the car slow down on its own? Even slightly and slowly at first. Yes, it will roll forward from a stop on its own but unless you are going less than 5 or 10 miles an hour the engine and transition will deliver natural breaking force. Shifting into neutral takes away the breaking force of the engine and allows the wheels to roll free like a matchbox car down a ramp. You are doing just the opposite of what you think. The car will accelerate even faster down hill in neutral than in drive, and on a level surface or uphill will decelerate more slowly in neutral than in drive. All you are doing is making your brake pads do even more work that partly could have been done by your engine.

The fact that you accidently reved and then shifts into gear is also retarded. But its bot going to make you blow a gasket or a hose. Whatever is leaking is incidental and broke because the big ass hill was too much for your cracked ass old hose or crumbly old gasket.

I drive too fast on windy, rural mountain roads and was looking for a way to improve my speed record. I am retarded and was doing the opposite of what I should have been doing, lesson learned.

Just groped at it, it feels fine.

Pic related. I finally found steel ramps and can finally get under the van, so I can take pictures from that angle or any other detail shots.

Will do, I'm picking up distilled water shortly. How does the pressurization tool work? I already know the system won't hold pressure, will it just give me a hissing noise to listen for or something?

I hadn't thought it through that thoroughly, which was a mistake, I was just letting the feedback from the vacuum actuated brake system trick me into thinking I was doing the right thing. I understand the issue now and won't be doing it again.

Nigger you are in a fucking Town and Country.

A FUCKING MINIVAN

STOP TRYING TO BE DAGUMI

Just pour water in, put cap back on and start the car.

Turn on flashlight and locate leak. Shouldn't hurt the engine anymore than you have already. It will be run I g and leaking just as before maybe a minute tops to locate the gush of water, unless you are a total Mr Magoo it should be easy to spot. The pattern of the spray strongly looks like the main coolant hose the big black one up front is leaking (that's what she said).

>I shifted my 3.3L 2009 Chrysler Town & Country into neutral to slow down for a hairpin bend in the road. I accidentally accelerated before shifting back into drive
please be real please be real please be real

removing the resistance of the motor from the drive wheels drastically changes the way the vehicle handles and actually makes it physically harder to negotiate the turn. Engine resistance can help mitigate understeer and promotes weight transfer.

You should be using the 2, 1, or L gears if you wanna carve corners in an automatic with any control. You actually want more torque to go to the wheels, not less, so you need to stay in gear all the way through the corner.

Using the engine brake gears will also ACTUALLY help you brake for the corner and they are electronically controlled so the car will not shift into a gear that is too low for its speed.

the 2500 RPM rev limiter you are noticing in the garage is normal in neutral while the car is still.

How many kids were in the minivan, OP? Were you that late to soccer practice?

But if I don't use all of the numbers on the speedometer they start to feel neglected. Pic related, a happy speedometer.

Just got access to another vehicle, I'll be picking up some distilled water as soon as I post this.

This is as real as it is inconvenient.

Thanks for the explanation, I now know exactly why I am an idiot. I should be getting over the mountain a bit faster now.

Zero children, one manchild. I generally use it hold all my tools and a cot when I travel for construction gigs, but today I was actually kind of soccer moming it up driving myself to fight at an SCA demo for school children.

Hey, don't use distilled water to find the leak, it's a waste of money. Just fill it with a garden hose to find the leak. You're gonna need to drain and flush the system *anyways* so save it for after you've fixed the leak, flushed out the old coolant, and are ready to put in new coolant.

>doesn't know much about cars
>time attack over the mountain in a chrysler town and country

you belong here

you dont really have to use distilled water, tap water from the house will be fine. This saves you time and gets you faster on the track to buying parts instead of driving out twice

>driving an automatic transmission Chrysler minivan like a manual rally car
Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha
You deserve every bad thing that ever happens to you.

Noted, saving my distilled water for coolant mixes. Will dump water in tomorrow morning, I need some sleep.

Thanks, I think I'll try to get my brother to take pacenotes for me and post a few results of my minivan mountain runs.

>You deserve every bad thing that ever happens to you.
Agreed, and I don't deserve any good thing that ever happens to me.

>Next time you'll think twice before revving up your engine

>Money shift with an automatic.

>I had thought that shifting into neutral to brake made me brake faster

Why ? Why on earth would you think that ?
This is beyond stupidity it's just incredibly dangerous. Please stop driving.

Had a coolant leak in my 95 Civic. The hose had just become detached and spewed the stuff everywhere. Thankfully for me, Honda's engines are freaks and there was no damage. I just attached the hose, filled up some 50/50 mix coolant and drive off.

You might be fucked though. I've almost never heard good stories about Chrysler engines that weren't hemis. Even then, it's eh.

This is what I want to know. In what way is shifting to neutral supposed to increase breaking power? What's the thought process behind this?

I figured that since the engine propels the vehicle, it must be working against the brakes slightly while in gear and that I would therefore be able to decelerate more quickly with the vehicle in neutral. It actually feels like it works, so I thought I was right.

...

here is an idea stop being a retard. you have no business owning or driving a car dumb ass.

Hello mc crummy

You can't even begin to understand how mad I am at reading this. But I'm not gonna be a cunt about it, here read this : en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking and please, never do that bullshit again.
Be thankful that it was an automatic, putting the gear into neutral with a manual gearbox (like I've seen retard do to "save gas" when driving down a slope at 100+ km/h) is a great way to die and probably kill some poor bastards along with you.

bumping from page 10. didn't sleep last night, slept most of today, just now getting to diagnosing the problem with water.

This is fucking beautiful
Agreed, you're in good company here. I had a 2003 Town and Country that I drag raced at every stoplight with in high school. Beat a Mitsubishi Eclipse and it was the proudest moment of my life at the time.

Holy shit what a thread

its propably something else that happened at the same time.
I was lugging my engine by accident and CEL came on w error code saying o2 sensor a fucked.
Its just some weird coincidence.

1. You are dumb. Keep it in D, retard. Jesus, automatic transmissions were made for people like you and you still manage to fuck it up. Get a self driving car when they come out. You'll probably find a way to fuck that up too.

2. Your transmission antics probably had nothing to do with your cooling system going whoosh. You were climbing a hill? Yeah, that would do it, that and driving an old Chrysler car.

First things first, let it cool down so it stops going whoosh. Then let it cool down so you can touch things, like the radiator cap without burning yourself.

Start with trying to figure out where it's leaking. If it's a hose, that'll need to get replaced. You know what? Scratch that. Call a tow truck, get on Yelp and find the nearest mechanic that everyone isn't bitching about.

If you were driving a turbine or a diesel, you would be somewhat right. But gasoline engines when throttled all the way back to idle will happily serve as brakes for the drivetrain. Most ECUs will actually do educated guesses when the engine is being used to brake and just shut off the injectors completely to save fuel.

Keep. It. In. D. The car can run itself better than you can.

In some states, it's also illegal to coast in neutral.

>I drive too fast on windy, rural mountain roads and was looking for a way to improve my speed record
In an old Chrysler minivan.
minivan.
old Chrysler minivan.

Besides, it's a Chrysler. Don't bother with nice things for it. No point to it.

As it should be.

I really hope your dad disowns you for being such a fucking idiot for thinking shifting into neutral helps with braking.

You are dumber than a nigger.

It's not even the 3.8L at that, at least that one was worth hooning if your mom had one.

The best thing about this, is that instead of it being done by some weeb in a ricebox, it was done by some retard in a bigass minivan.

This is good, OP.

You deserve all of the bad that comes from this.

...

>I am retarded

No shit

We should talk to his dad, for failing to teach his son the basics of how to drive a car properly. That is, if he even has a father in his life...

My Dad taught me better than this, I'm just an asshole.

Filled her up with water, turned her on, and I found the leak--a steady drip rather than a gush, but she's just idling. What is this part called? How do I fix my fuck-up? I'll be leafing through my Haynes manual trying to identify it.

that's the heater hose you dumb nigger
youtu.be/JYJ_lIVdvDo?t=1m9s

it took literally two seconds to google "Chrysler town and country radiator y hose" and I found the fucking part. apparently it is a really common problem with these vans

Just stopping by to say thanks again to OP for the beautiful thread.

>I drive too fast on windy, rural mountain roads and was looking for a way to improve my speed record in a fucking chrysler Town and Country minivan. I am retarded

Holy shit what? Actually you probably belong here considering most of Veeky Forums are people racing their literal junkheaps.

Well at least you're not a busrider.

I had a hearty laugh reading this, thanks. Good luck in fixing it and good on you for taking the initiative to educate yourself. You're already ahead of 99% of this board.

youtube.com/watch?v=zR2BboZeLEw
Song for your situation OP ;^)

Thanks user, doing a web search was probably a better idea than leafing through my book.

>apparently it is a really common problem
The long-term fix seems to be to use a metal piece instead of the plastic Y, which gets brittle over time. I don't have a TIG welding setup to make one of the fancy ones people use nor the time to wait for one to ship, but I should be able to find a suitable T connector and hose whenever the hardware store opens today. I'll probably just flush the water from the system and remove the Y pipe and call it a night.

I used to race my 2007 CR-V against my friend's 2001 Odyssey. Lost usually, but, good times.

Those Odysseys were no fucking joke man. I had a friend who drove one and we'd hoon all over the place in it.

Duuude, boostedbois

>I had thought that shifting into neutral to brake made me brake faster

some niggers are beyond retarded.

Chrysler really is just slapped together junk

Stay away from high current electrical sources - you're too stupid to be around them safely.

If I was your dad I'd do a paternity test to make sure you were actually my son and not someone else's.

>Chrysler minivan
>going to 177k+
Hey, they're improving! They used to hit 85k and start falling apart at the seams and look like they'd gone 250k+. Usually you'd have rebuilt the trans three times by 100k, that van must have been treated like a Rolls until Opie got to it.

Austin?

Revving up while downshifting isn't a bad thing though, on the contrary it helps preserving your clutch and engine

>i made her wet.jpg

Just got back from the hardware store. I'm using this guy's method ( youtube.com/watch?v=DBNyZQD9LD8 ) to replace the leaking plastic Y pipe. Since the plastic Y sits too close to the manifold without any kind of shielding, it gets brittle over time and eventually sprays coolant everywhere. Replacing it with $8 worth of brass, hose, and clamps will be a better long-term fix than buying the $100 dealer part.

He is dumb but let's not get carried away

>He is dumb
I got the wrong sized hose clamps, had to go to the auto parts store (hardware stores with cheaper hose clamps were closed) five minutes before close. It's an hour of driving round trip to go to the store and back so it's a bit of an inconvenience.

The first ones I got fit over my replacement hose, but the original hose has thicker walls. One of the hoses wouldn't come off, so I left it in place. I'll illustrate that later, I've been taking pictures the entire time--I even busted apart the Y pipe so you guys could look at the not-coming-apart-without-breaking connectors it uses.

Where do you live??

Got it all put together, will post more pictures if anyone cares after I finish the coolant flush. Here's the before picture for reference:

Filled the radiator system with water and did a test drive to the top of the mountain and back twice. I didn't find any leaks but I did hit a possum at 85mph :(

Fortunately, I rolled dubs as I rolled into the driveway.

Jfc OP, how are you even allowed to operate a vehicle much less do this neutral shifting fuckery

lol this aint good OP u done fucked up

god you suck at driving.

Did you bleed or burp the cooling system, dumbass?

>better long-term fix than buying the $100 dealer part
But, but, muh OEM!!!

Epoxy pot the whole engine.
No more leaks.

Fed water through twice, drove for a bit with the heater on each time. Drained the last round of water last night, but fell asleep after going inside to sit down and eat. I'll be filling it up with diluted coolant here shortly.

Thats pretty neat fix, you did good, OP.

Oh look, another reason to not buy a used car.

>my 3.3L 2009 Chrysler Town & Country

So basically, no, you didn't bleed or burp it. This is going to be amusing when you overheat again and you have no idea why...

Bleed the cooling system. Fuck's sake OP, why did you even get a car if you aren't going to bother learning even the most basic of maintenance protocols?

Criminally underrated

your mom's house

Free market capitalism.

That brass part doesn't look like it has any barbs on the ends, op - there is a decent chance that the hoses will just slip off over time.

Btw, guys, a lot of automatics DON'T HAVE ANY ENGINE BRAKING - namely the more traditional/older torque converter based autos. Try it the next time you drive one - just leave it in D and let off the throttle, you'll coast for a long time.