/CCG/: Rusty Chevrolet Edition

Still looking for some 15" rims for the impala. Id love some cragar/meme thrusters, but these popped up with decent tires on them.

Thoughts? Theyre $180

gay

Aren't those Ram rims? That's like a 5.5 inch bolt pattern

holy shit

junkyard steelies

Not too thrilled, but its either spend 1k+ or people are only selling pairs of rims i like.

Ad says they came off a vette.

Pretty much whats on under the caps. Cant believe im saying this, but i want something shiney.

My baby in the shnow

American Racing AR39s have been my favorite aftermarket wheel since they were on every Hot Wheels car back in the '90's, so I may be biased; get 'em.

On Hot Wheels, they're called "saw blade."

>anything except stock rims or steelies

Ive always loved them haha. I just might if i can talk them down on the price a bit.

I wonder how much i could sell the stock 14" rims with fresh 215/75r14 tires and SS caps.

Here's mine

Crownanon put his shitpile on craigslist
vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/d/1980-xr7-mercury-cougar-rare/6404923140.html

That looks miserable.
Are we doing this now?

Snow in the south. We will rebuild.

>custom brake delete
Lmao

Muh '88 C1500 , currently 305 with 700r4 waiting for spring to drop the 454 in. Completly refreshed the suspension from the ground up. Only thing left is the Body mounts and body work. Not to shabby for a truck that only costed me 950 canadian pesos

Took a while but worth it.

>950 canadian pesos
Companies exporting trucks out to the states really ruined the used market here, its awful.

Yeah, central NC usually doesn't get snow until after the new year, sometimes as late as march.

...

Update: it's already sold. Oh well.

Poor Imperial.
When was the last time you drove it?

How did that beast do in the snow?

A couple days ago; that was a freak snowstorm here in Texas.

At least you dodged Harvey.

Pulling out from work after taking pic, would instantly slide if I pushed the brake pedal further than "friendly gesture"

Just drove home in 2nd gear at 30mph...the roads themselves were mostly slush.

Need some Sure-Grip

Do you guys just find a bargain and buy it to wrench on it or you only buy stuff you really want?

I think it was the front wheels that locked, actually.

On a side note, I was bored and decided to make a table of choices. The Gearvendors probably won't be added but I decided to see what it'd affect anyway.

like when finding a car/project?

I saw the Valiant on craigslist for $2600 (ended up at 2450) so I got a nice deal there, already daily drive capable.

The only issues with the car when bought were first, pic related; and second, when they put the 2v manifold and Carter BBD on from a 78 Aspen, they forgot the kickdown linkage.

Do you know how to threshold brake?
Honestly that's why i don't like automatics in the snow. I once avoided certain death when a philly bus pulled out on me by moneyshotting my tC.

Well when it did slide, I'd let off and apply more gently. I wasn't gonna try to go fast regardless.

Yes. I've been contemplating getting an older car to tinker and learn to wrench on, maybe something from the 70's. Selections pretty limited where i live and the surrounding area. Nothing really screams at me. Theres no hurry.

Only buy it if you love it

I got you senpai

I do wonder how well a stock /6 would accelerate with 3.23s or 3.55s, compared to the current 2.76 (which is currently "floor it for anything")

to answer your questions, i look for body styles i find attractive and scour craigslist for a while looking for a combination of the best condition example and best price. depending on how ambitious you are/how long one has been wrenching, you find one that is within your price range and capabilities. you want to look for a straight body with minimal rust. also parts availability and compatibility is a big factor when it comes to making things easier for you. some platforms are just easier to work on than others. also, your choice depends on what you want your vehicle to be able to do. i usually look to see if theres an aftermarket for suspension components and what motors/trannies people usually swap in. and what it would take to swap those motors in ie. how much room is in the engine bay and other stuff. my answer is probably a bit disjointed, but i hope that sheds a little light on it.

also pre 75 for me because of smog laws

Not much better but a single barrel carb is okay in terms of throttle response.

I should say near stock, actually; it has the last 70s 2v manifold, and a Motorcraft 2150, 1.08. Otherwise it's unmodified.

*late 70s

That's also okay but in my experience the central cylinders run lean.

If it doesn't have the smog bullshit you may be looking at like 145hp.

the funny thing about a 225 is it can basically reach the power level of a 12v cummins after some work.

Yeah. It's a 71 car, but the manifold was pulled from a 78 Aspen or something like that.

Why waste your dough if you are just going to replace them later?

The exhaust manifold as well? Consider an EGR block off plate. I believe they're still available at mowpahr dealerships.

Well the one that was on it was I just ordered a new one....it did have a port for an O2 sensor (presumably to work on all years of the engine, not just older ones) but it's not used.

Thanks for the answers

no problem. if i had to choose a different first real project, i would probably choose some type of gm. whenever i go to the swap meet there are always twice as many GM parts as Ford, and there are twice as many Ford parts as Mopar. best of luck to you user. also, pro tip: many popular platforms have multiples. the chevy nova is the same as the Buick apollo, pontiac ventura, and oldsmobile omega. chevelle has the cutlass, 442, f85, lemans, and gto. the mercury comet and ford maverick are almost the same as a mustang/cougar under the sheet metal.

best of luck to you, user.

Nah, he needs to go hard mode ans get an AMC.

But yeah, GM all the way. Apart from the body, you can pretty much rebuild any GM car via autozone/rockauto.

If its your 1st time, a C10 is king
>easy parts
>easy access
>so much fucking room
>still new enough to find in junkyards.

...

How does this make yall feel?
[email protected]

Shit.

This:

tallahassee.craigslist.org/cto/d/1967-plymouth-barracuda/6410966867.html

makes me feel like it isn't a proper link

Aren't you the guy that bad weather stripping and headliner was too much of a job for?

Never said it was too hard, just not something ive done.

just posting something interesting, doesnt mean i want it.

That's fair. Now I feel bad. That Barracuda is neat, and I have never seen that combination before. I wonder why he didn't post quarter times.

Good.

Now with that said, i want it.

>What's /ccg/'s opinion on the 22R? Should I mess with it or just get it running well and leave it stock? Seems like a braindead simple engine

It's... eh.

First thing to do is pull the timing cover, change the timing chain, tensioner, chain guides, and cover. Don't use plastic guides; they'll wear out fast and the chain will eat through into the back of the water pump housing.

Second thing to do (if you don't have emissions) is pull the carburetor and throw it into the trash where it belongs. The aftermarket Weber carbs are pretty decent.

Those are the only major flaws I can think of, besides the noisy damn valvetrain (adjust clearance all you want, it'll still clatter) but that's just an annoyance, really.

i dare you.

People like ruining cars, big surprise.

No way in hell id buy it, but it would be interesting. The mpg and reliability (toyota meme) might even be worth it for the stupid sound it would make.

Is it ruined if it keeps it on the road? Yeah a big block would be preferred, but id rather a car be cubanized VS crushed/boomered (left to rot cause theyll "fix it one day")... or worse, nigged.

Looks retarded.

I'm a bit confused my guys. So about 2 or so months ago the indicators just completely stopped working in the Ford. The solenoid or capacitor or whatever the component is called want firing and the stalk would do nothing. Yesterday, I went to go for a drive and I guess I'd left the stalk in the left-hand position, and my indicators fired the second I turned the car on. Have y'all got an idea why it would do that?

Ok just humor me here.

>Pontiac 6.6/400
Yay or nay as being a good motor? What would be the expect mpg if i didnt drive like a jack ass?

>4spd manual
Most have a final drive ratio of 1:1, or is that just a muncie and others 4th gear was an "over drive"?

We all know 70-73 2nd gens are sexiest in both camaro and trans ams, but what would be 2nd place? Would a 77-81 be ok if all the smog crap was removed?

if the springs sit on top of the axle you can put a lift block in between the axle and spring and it will lift it, the draw back is the increased distance between the spring and axle will increase the amount of axle wrap and that causes wheel hop. the other option would be to add leafs to the spring pack but that makes for a stiffer ride. you could also do drop shackles

Could be grounding on something.
>What would be the expect mpg if i didnt drive like a jack ass?
At least 16.

>Most have a final drive ratio of 1:1, or is that just a muncie and others 4th gear was an "over drive"?
Almost all have a ratio of 1:1 unless it was an overdrive unit.

> final drive ratio
The final drive ratio is what's in the differential, unless it's an OD transmission the top gear will be 1:1. More importantly is if the gearbox is a close ratio or wide ratio unit. Chances are great that that's not a numbers matching car anyway.

>Would a 77-81 be ok if all the smog crap was removed?
The motor probably won't run right if you just yank all that stuff off. It has probably already been done anyway.

I can't believe you got this much snow in Houston. I'm there like a week before this, then I come back to Waco, it was dry as a bone during the storm. Mexico got snow. Just my luck

W72 block was one of the best ever produced by Pontiac.

77-78 were great years, the w72 block was solid and you could make massive power without doing much work.
79 we're ok until they ran out of XX blocks halfway through the year.
80-81 were garbage, the 403 olds was a dog and the turbo engines are a blight on Pontiac.
78 was the last good looking trans am.

I'm going to be picking up a 76 Pontiac 400 engine soon do you know of any common problems with them or anything I should look out for? Guy wants 400 for it

Also there is almost no smog crap on them, egr really doesn't hurt performance because it only worked at idle. There's also a charcoal filter....that didn't even do anything.

the casting # is 481988 apparently a 71-74

They lightened the casting in 76 on the normal 400 blocks. Stock you should be fine but put any power behind it and it'll crack.
76-79 blocks that do not have the XX casting you should stay away from.

apparently it's an earlier block based on the casting number he gave me. i plan on doing a decent na build, do you think I could break 400hp with a cam/intake/exhaust? Apparently recurving the distributor helps too

400 with just doing that might be dubious

I'm just an apprentice under the Pontiac master himself, so here's just what I would do for a general NA build.

Neackdown valves
Milled, and ported heads
Flattop pistons
Decked block
Stroker crank
And some crazy cam setup

This is just general stuff though, the type of heads matters alot. But what matters most on Pontiac engines is the exhaust.

My (stock) Pontiac 400 build has like 2 hours left in it. When I'm done I'll write down what I did.

I figured 400hp would be a bit of a stretch. You think heads would get me there?

NOOOOOO I thought you were banished to the shadow realm!!!!

Would it be worth saving up for something like this? Since it would include all the pieces and all would be in great condition? Or should I look for something used and work with that, like the A833OD on craigslist in the previous thread?
passonperformance.com/current/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=82&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Used oem parts are always better if you can find them.

Fair enough. Problem is finding a yard that has anything older than 80s...

Wish these damn parts places had a list of vehicels, rather than this damn "you MUST select a SPECIFIC year and model!" Like, do they expect me to individually search EVERY year of EVERY model with that part?

Ram air IV heads and a better cam would get you there, assuming you already have flattop pistons.

Would it be a bad idea to get one of these as a project car / weekend car? I like the way they look and have a decently stocked garage but I know German cars can be a pain in the ass to work on

I'm deciding between the E30 325i or a Miata, but the Miatas that go up for sale near me are all beat to complete shit

>on carpart
>looking for a 4L80E
>have to go through 5 years of EVERY van/pickup
>their 3 respective trim levels (1500, 2500, 3500)
>and then the engine combinations

...

That's all you'll ever find; hell, that's why I have an '86 Corvette. 50k miles for $3,100.00. They're no longer a cheap, decent car.

I want that Bronco.

Price not being the issue; which of these would be the best dd? As far as most practical, "mpg", access to parts, seems would be most reliable, and less finicky (vacume lines?)

68 Road Runner
gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1968/plymouth/road-runner-S507.html

81 camaro
gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1981/chevrolet/camaro-S536.html

68 Torino Gt
gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1968/ford/torino-S485.html

65 mustang
gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1965/ford/mustang-S416.html

81 trans am
gatewayclassiccars.com/atlanta/1981/pontiac/firebird-S194.html

Just let me dream pls

>"mpg"
stop right there. if mpgs are even remotely a concern or even a thought in your head you are in the market for the wrong kind of cars.

the road runner would be the best bet cause mopars are some of the most sought after and expensive classics on the market, that and theyre sexy as fuck. that 383 big block would get 9-10mpg on a good day