QTDDTOT

Questions that don't deserve their own thread.

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Friend is selling a salvage title vehicle that he daily drove with no mechanical issues for a great price.

Is it a pain to insure salvage vehicles in California?

Do I have to do any kind of special prep or something (clay bar?) if I wanted to have a shop vinyl wrap my car? My factory paint hasn't faded away yet but the clearcoat is fucked in the drivers rear quarter panel and the body itself has a couple dents to pull

How come people say 3L liter engines like in supras are heavier than 1.3L engines in the RX8? From what I could gather the 3L engine has bigger holes in for more liters? Logically it should weigh less than the engine with smaller holes in it.

Ok lads, car randomly ''shutters'' and jerks when on the highway going 60+.
don't know what the fuck is causing it.
Greasemonkeys, and I've seen plenty, all say the front-end suspension is fine. I don't know what the fuck to do.
Last time I saw them I got the front two wheel bearings changed cause they were shot (makes me think the rears might be fucked, too).
Plan of action is to ask about rear wheel bearings and then what else do you guys think could cause this ? Differential issues? Transmission mount or engine mount?

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no it just has to be clean af to apply the vinyl, that quarter panel could he a problem tho

are you balanced, and have a good alignment? or your rims may be bent

I'm interested in improving my suspension, In terms of bushings, which bushings are commonly upgraded are replaced? I see control arm bushings everywhere but aren't there a lot more to worry about? Thank

yes, sadly. The wheels are perfectly balanced and new. Alignment is fresh and good, as well.

I've driven a car with a bad bearing before and it was more of a constant sawwing noise and I'm not getting that. Often I'll get a rising and falling whirring noise coming from the rear...fuuck.

How so? Because it's not smooth or because it doesn't have clearcoat or both?

I just called my state farm agent and added my salvage truck for basic liability. I had insurance in about 30 minutes

Get rubber bushings. polyurethane bushings are a meme. Rubber dampens shocks and quiets the ride

did I fuck up, lads =-(

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What's the basic shit I should check out & replace if I want to "refresh" my cars suspension? (I.E.: bushings and what not) Not looking for aftermarket shit/mods, just to replace wear and tear items. The car has been curbed by p/o a few times so I'm planning to get the alignment checked too.

Are kw variant 3 coilovers a meme?
What are suitable alternatives
I want
>height/rebound adjustable
>adjustable camber (not for stancing)

is it a stupid idea to put a turbo on a jeep i6?
I kind of want some more power out of my wj and it seems like the safest option

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all the stuff that wears like shocks and bushings
unless you've got some extra fancy suspension that should be all you need to do

I have an engine that turns over but won't start. My oil is fine, and the battery is alive and well. It just cranks a few times and then dies. Possibilities that come to mind:
>bad fuel pump (don't know much about these)
>starter motor is kill (but then would it even turn over?)
>homeless tweakers siphoned out my gasoline for their campfires (it's happened before around here)
How do I go about finding out what the problem is?
t. car babby who knows nothing

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that engine was never made to see boost. You can etiehr yank the motor out and build the f out of it($$$$$$) or swap in a motor designed for boost($$$). No such thing as a free diner homie.

air fuel spark is what a motor needs to run. Air is a given so spark is the first place to check. Yank a plug out and lay it against something metal. Crank the motor, Strong spark = something wrong with fuel, weak/no spark= ignition system. Does it smell like gas when you crank it? Can you hear the pump turn on when you turn the key but dont start the motor

What is it? First thing to do is take off the air duct into the throttle body and get a m8 to squirt some some aerostart into the throttle as you turn it over. If it fires on the spray, it's a fuel issue. If it doesn't, it's your ignition system.

So I bought a G35 like 2 weeks ago for $5500, immediately spent another $1000 on taxes and a fuel pump so around 6500 invested in it.

2 days ago a fedex truck blindside hits me and I think theres a real chance my car gets totaled. How much money am I looking to lose at this point? 2006 with 125k miles coupe.

I'll give testing the spark plugs a shot. I don't have much in the way of tools at the moment but hopefully they won't be too hard to get out and test. I've got no m8s either so I'm gonna have to get creative when I crank it over. I didn't smell any gas earlier today, but I did hear something turning on while cranking... I'll check that out too.
But I think it might be a spark plug issue because this car came with no maintenance history and I have no idea when the plugs were last changed (manual says every 30K miles), and I have noticed it has been a bit less willing to start immediately recently. I thought it was just the cold mornings, but maybe not...

Do I have to fuck with my brake fluid/fluid reservoir at all if I want to just change my rotors & pads? I know I really should change the fluid but I want to do the rotors & pads first since i'll need someone to help me drain the fluid

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It won't be the actual plugs. Shitty spark plugs will just give you a shit running engine, it will 9/10 still at least fire.

I'm going to put way too much effort into this low rent bait reply, but I can and so I will.

It's a question of more than just size of the hole. If you have a big engine displacement, you have to have a bigger engine to go with it. If you were carving a 1.3L our of the same black as a 4L, then yes, the 1.3L would be heavier because the block would be enormous for the displacement.

See this diagram, where on the left you have two identical blocks with different sized holes in them, vs different sized holes with the same relative amount of block around them.

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Well, I checked the fuel pump and I can hear it going when I crank the engine, so it's got to be the ignition system... Right? I've got no idea what I'm doing here but I guess you have to start learning from some place.

what pressure do you run your air impacts at? Mine says it needs 90 pounds but it's a 25 ft hose and there is some loss there.

Depends, on some vehicles you're required to break open the bleeder valve to push back the pistons on the caliper which necessitates bleeding after install.

Other vehicles you can get away with not doing that and just watching the fluid level rise in the reservoir, however generally its good practice to change it, and it doesn't always require someone helping to do it, there are cheap vacuum bleeders and methods to do it with out help.

Generally I just pump the brakes and then hold the pedal down with a piece of pipe wedged between the seat and the pedal, and then let the pressure push the fluid out til its bleed.

You can see if the spark plug is firing by hold it the block and getting someone to crank the car. or using pictured.

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No. I just spent all of yesterday fixing my shitty fuel pressure and the pump was fine.

Unless its just shitty hose and you have leaks the loss isnt going to be great, 90-100lbs is fine.

why is it bad to run it at 150 pounds?

No just don't count on getting crazy numbers or the engine lasting as long as it would normally.

>that engine was never made to see boost.

Plenty of engines aren't designed to take any amount of boost but get boosted anyways, AND take it well. The 4.0 does pretty well under boost, all things considered, it just won't put out crazy numbers like an M20/M30/2jz. You just can throw long term reliability out the window.

The seals won't take it.

So I'm removing surface rust from the hood of a car I'm working on, it doesn't go through the metal or anything, but running my hand over it, I think I can feel the thin-spot. Should I put a thin layer of body filler over that spot or should I just not bother with how thin most hood sheet metal is?
Pic is the surface rust.

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It all depends on the compress ratio and how much pressure the stock gaskets can take. There's no point going though all the work of installing the turbo if you cant go higher than 5psi without ping.

AFR gauges, and Fuel management/Standalone ecu's aren't any more expensive than the turbo system itself.

And even 5psi is a significant difference from stock.

Better yet considering its a Jeep there are numerous builds and documentation out there already showing its done.

When upshifting am I supposed to let go of the right pedal initially or just leave it at the current position?

How do I release the clutch smoothly?

LET go and let the revs fall ~500. Depends on the car and gear. Shoot clutch shifts really depends on how close your current rpms are to the gear you’re jumping into. If you’re at the rpms you should be and drop the clutch, you shouldn’t feel any jerking.

I let go of the gas pedal when I put the clutch in, and then give it gas as I let the clutch out. I'm not sure what you mean by releasing the clutch smoothly, but my car will make a clunk sound if I push the clutch in quickly while still giving it gas. So I make sure I've let off the gas before the clutch is all the way in, and don't hit it like I'm braking for my life.

>When upshifting am I supposed to let go of the right pedal initially or just leave it at the current position?


You're supposed to let off the gas immediately shift. Ideally once you shift you should be letting off the clutch with the same speed as you're pushing back on the accelerator at the same time.

>How do I release the clutch smoothly?

Git Güd

just got spark plugs and wires replaced, as well as an oil change.
however my car still jerks when accelerating, but only on lower speeds, and it also stalls when idle. When its on the freeway things are back to normal and the check engine light even goes off for a bit. I'm thinking it's a clogged catylic convertor but not sure
its a buick 87
my mechanic quoted a lot of things, I'm not sure I believe them. he said transmission binding, something about the engine modulator and such . Maybe I'm being ignorant though, and wishful thinking

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Just came here to say i love this picture

>but only on lower speeds, and it also stalls when idle.

Sounds like a vacuum leak.

How do you do it for N -> 1 without causing the engine to stop?

anyway I could confirm this myself?

I don't understand exactly how boost improves performance
a noticeable or 10%+ performance boost would be nice, though I think I could also maybe get that with a different transmission
I don't know much about these things I'm just speculating

Opinions on the first gen Volvo c70?

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Step one, Learn where the bite point is.

Easiest way is to put your foot on the brake and your foot on the clutch and slowly let the clutch out till you see or feel the engine revs drop and starts to bog.

Step two, learn how to start off without using gas, on a flat or level spot, now that you know where the bite point is repeat the same process leaving your foot off the brake and slowly let the clutch out till you feel the car bog again, and it starts to move slowly foward, once the car is in motion again slowly let off the clutch til it reaches the top of its travel.

Repeat step two until you can do it repeatedly and smoothly then start trying to lightly press the gas as you do the same routine.

Keep in mind that what you're doing is burning the clutch because you're taking forever to start off. But once you have it done smoothly and using the gas, that becomes less of a worry.

If i were to be found at fault in a traffic incident without insurance, moved to another state after court and payment shit is settled, and got a new in state ID from wherever i moved to, could companies link that incident to me? I feel like they probably could, but you would be in another state with a different ID that has a different license # so i dont see how.

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>bring engine to 2.5k revs
>release clutch

How do you not? I mean you realistically cannot comprehend as to why, then turbos are not something you need worry about.

Anyways more boost = more air means the engine can put more fuel in and make a bigger bang.

5psi on fairly healthy engine will be more than just 10% more power.

lmgtfy.com/?q=Finding vacuum leaks

Boost just gets more air the chamber so:
Air + gas = big boom that moves the car
More air means bigger boom
More gas means bigger boom
Bigger boom means more stress on the engine and its internals as it wasnt designed to withstand the bigger boom, only the lesser one. Thats not to say it cant handle the bigger one, but like the other user said longevity goes out the window unless you upgrade some internals while youre setting up the boost

what about a supercharger instead?

5psi and doing some internal reinforcing sounds attainable

Insurance companies use your social security number for a reason.

There we go, i knew i was missing something obvious like that. Thanks

>doing some internal reinforcing sounds attainable

You understand doing that means literally pulling the engine apart right? At the very least a headgasket job.

I don't think boosting is something you should be considering if you can't comprehend that.

Nevertheless supercharging is easier to do, however you get significantly less power gains as a result.

>You understand doing that means literally pulling the engine apart right? At the very least a headgasket job.
yes, the engine I have is needing a rebuild anyways

>Pic is the surface rust.
Yes, after you remove material, you need to fill it back in. This kind of repair will be very very visible under color and clear coat.

If the rust was very very minor, you could get away with glazing putty or even just high build primer, but yours is going to need filler to not look like a complete shitjob.

Then by all means go start pricing aftermarket forged internals. Your jaw will probably drop.

would a fd rx7 be worth buying over say a r32 gtr or evo 8?

I tried switching over to dot5 brake fluid for my clutch by somehow failed miserably.

My car had been sitting for about 3 months while I made a new exhaust for it, after I finished I did a quick bleed of the brakes and clutch and typically after driving for a few hours the transmission would get harder to shift, and it would start grinding in reverse by the time I got back home. So today I got some dot5 and went to flush my clutch line. Well my clutch fluid came out looking like pic related.

After flushing out the clutch line with denatured alochol until it came out clear, blowing it out with compressed air, then brake cleaner, then compressed air again on both ends until I verified that the rags I had been placing on both ends were dry, I put in the dot5 fluid and bled like normal. The pedal firmness was great, better than it had been in recent memory. So I get ready to take out the car and somehow the pedal has lost a little of that initial firmness and the car wont go into gear. I keep trying to bleed it in various ways, even using a vacuum bleeder. Nothing. The pedal gets firm, then softens up a little and it just wont go into gear. I've watch the clutch fork prong and it looks like its moving its full range of motion. I don't know what to do

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I know, I'm practically building a whole new engine

also I don't know exactly what would need to be upgraded
beefier pistons? I don't know

Well it would be comparatively more expensive to buy an unmolested one VS the other two.

I had an 87 Lasabre a while back. The Ignition coil modules tend to be a weak part. Fuel system should be cleaned out with the 2 part solvent (one part goes in tanks, one part goes directly to the fuel rail) Change fuel filter.

My transmission eventually failed, I suggest taking it easy and possibly using a half container of Lucas Transmission conditionioner. I used the Lucas in a Caravan with shift slip and some leakage, which I sold 50,000 miles later, and I still see it driving around the neighborhood. Fixed the slip and never leaked another drop. I don't normally go for mechanic in a can solutions, but out of desperation I gave it a try and turned out pretty well. YMMV

Depends what you want it for. If you like Fd's, then yes.

Forged internals, pistons, rods, crank.
You're also going to want lower compression, via a thicker beefier head gasket and or lower compression pistons+ longer and more durable head bolts.

Depending on your goals, you may need an upgraded transmission, transfer case and differentials. I'm not an expert on jeeps so what the power limit on those would be something you pose to a Jeep forum.

>dot5 brake fluid for my clutch


not a great move. DOT 5 is silicone based, can be incompatible with many types of seals. Might have messed up pretty bad based on the pic. Why not go with Dot 3/4 and just stick to what's known to work?

Are there any post 2000 cars that dont fuck you on insurance? My cheapest car so far was a 91 firebird at 99.98 a month, im looking for a new car but everything pre 2000 in my budget either doesnt run or doesnt have a title, and everything post 2000 is looking like $200+ a month. Im not paying for 6 months of insurance when its going to cost almost as much as the car if not more. Id probably pay less if i get full coverage and total it a month later for the payout

That pic is from the dot4 fluid that had been sitting for about 3 months and was giving me slight shifting issues after bleeding and driving for a few hours at a time, not the dot5.

Forgot to answer the second part. I wanted to go with dot5 specifically because of the perceived moisture issue I was having. Even after bleeding multiple times when using dot4 it would end up being so mushy but the time I'm done driving it'd start grinding in reverse by the time I got home. You might be right as far as a compatibility issue though? I was really hoping I could just switch to dot5 and then never worry about my clutch ever again.

Is there any site/program that can quickly get you an insurance quote? Most ads dont list the vin, and most sites ask for a vin for the quote. I just want to put my name and age, vehicle name and year, and be done with it. I dont expect it to be accurate, i just want an estimate so i can see which vehicles are cheaper on insurance. Half the time if the site doesnt ask for a vin it will just take my info and link me to other sites like progressive, and never give me any actual quotes.

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Literally all online insurance companies will give a quote with just that info.

>Half the time if the site doesnt ask for a vin it will just take my info and link me to other sites like progressive

You actually have to go to the insurance agency's website, not some knockoff site that gave you a shit load of spyware on your visit.

i hear a rattling noise from my left rear side everytime i go over a bump at low speeds. is it time for a new strut? my car has 73,000 miles and is a 09 honda accord.

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The lease on my Accord will soon expire! I need a new car. I'll be leasing another car again as it's the best solution within my current situation. Suggest a new lease for me, bros!

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ok I will try the lucas, thanks. do you reccomend also laquer thinner?

is it fine if i use this on every bolt i take on and off from my car? some guy told me that the bolt can come loose if i do so

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>you have to go to the company's site

Thats what i was trying to avoid, i figured those sites would be like "ok based on your info a contract with progressive would be $150 a month, or $100 with allstate" and give links to those companies. The whole point was to avoid having 4 or 5 tabs open and checking each vehicle through each site because thats less efficient than one site/program giving me info for multiple companies. I figured there was something out there that could do that, but apparently not

get a 350 or 5.3

Would it be a bad idea to trade my 2011 523i saloon for a 2008 328i cabrio convertible? The 328i also has been driven 70000km less.

I found a 92 ranger nearby for 1k that supposedly runs, but the pic of the odometer shows its at 446k and only says the fuel pump has been replaced. Ive heard of older trucks making it well over 200k but ive never actually seen a running one that did. I certainly havent seen anything get close to 500k and still run, at least not without a decent bit of newer parts. What are the chances this is a giant pile of shit and ill have to replace a decent amount of parts pretty soon after i buy it?

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Why would you? It's fuckin expensive. Bad idea on anything that requires loctite.

so you have a bolt with a nut and neither side is difficult to get to. Do you put your impact on the nut, or the bolt?

>truly difficult to get to
>using an impact wrench

Choose one.

Yes, Verts are more expensive to maintain even in the BMW scheme of things.

Progressive supposedly gives you the rate of their competitors but YMMV

Theres a reason Insurance companies direct to their own sites for rates, Its called getting you in the door.

A rattling noise, could literally be anything, loose heat shield, loose fender liner your moms cooch, you have to narrow down whats causing the noise first before throwing parts at it.

always the nut. if you do the bolt you risk snapping the head off of it.

scrap for a vehicle pays $200-$250, buy it and if you even drive it for 4 months you get your $800 worth

yeah probably

Turns out I think it's the slave cylinder failing. Ordered a new one and hopefully that fixes all my issues

i found the problem! it was some metal shim that feel off when i changed the rear brake pads. i was checking out the backing plate and i heard a rattle and it was that

> Ive heard of older trucks making it well over 200k but ive never actually seen a running one that did
My Tacoma from the 90's has close to 300k; all major mechanical and electrical components are original.
I've seen Rangers do half a million.
Do it

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Car got stolen, looking for a new (used) one. Budget - roughly 9-10 thousand usd

Since I live in one of the snowiest cities in the U.S. I was hoping for something with AWD. Other than that I'm not super picky, obviously reliability is important.

So far I've found:

2012 Subaru Forester 2.5x Premium
112,000 miles
10,500$

2010 Honda CRV 4WD
90,000 miles
9,250$ obo

2009 VW Tiguan SE AWD
93,400 miles
6,500$

2011 Subaru Forester XT Premium
141,000miles
8,000$

2002 Subaru Impreza RS
96,500miles
5,000$

2007 Ford Ranger XL LB 4WD
95000miles
7000$

Any of these sound like a good offer (assuming at least pretty good condition)? Any other models I should look for?

I'm about to change my brake pads, but do I need to change my rotors or get them resurfaced as well? I don't get vibrations or wobbles from the brakes, I'm just starting to hear the indicator strip.

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nissan versa a worthwhile purchase?

If you want to do it the right way replace both.

If you're cheap and willing to have less braking power for the next couple thousand miles until the pads and old rotors wear into each other then do it that way.

The Ranger or the Honda desu senpai
Depends on your intended use.

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>leasing

You're on the wrong board.

not that user, but what about financing?