/ccg/ - classic car general

Jackpot - neither of these were hooked up inside the distributor. If it fires up after this I'll be like a dog with two tails. Gonna google this real quick but do you know what these connect to? I assume they're held down to a contact point by one of those screws

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Making the braded steel fuel lines fit in the 6 an fittings was the most difficult part. I don't know about smog laws but I can imagine California would be angry about trying to make your car more fuel efficient

look at this clean-ass boy

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It would appear I have an autolite dizzy even though I have a Delco starter. I'll follow this diagram best I can

Damn, well, I hooked up those wires, still no signs of ignition. Nothing at all like I'm getting no spark. Is that voltage regulator wire going to do that or is it something else?

That sounds like misadjusted points; too big of a gap.

I found this '72 Challenger R/T clone and the seller wants $20000. What would be an inoffensive price to shoot for since it isn't an original?

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That pink though. Why!?!

I might not do it. Not decided yet. I have a donor carburetor and two manuals. I'm sure with a rebuild kit and some time I could master the quadrajet platform rebuilding my donor carb. I've heard carbs is the way to go for roots blowers. But dam if plug and play isn't tempting

U guys watch this movie? Some sweet classics in it

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less than two months till i can drive this bad girl again

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2manyengines are you around? I saw your post in the c3 vs eclipse thread and I'd like to pick your brain seeing as how I have a malaise era 350

Discovered my Dana 44 actually calls for a case spreader to set carrier bearing preload. Fuck that shit. Pulled my bearings off to pack an extra equal amount of shims in on either side and then beat it into the housing.

I know it's blog posting but work has been shit, my truck work has been shit, and I haven't seen my fiance in about 2 weeks. Anybody have some classic related stuff to cheer me up?

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Define classic stuff. Saw this at my brothers highschool

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i think its some kind of sick Mopar inside joke
some of the high-impact colors are nice but jeez

lafayette.craigslist.org/cto/d/1972-dodge-challenger/6521348548.html

panther pink is hot though- I do have a problem with the color arrangement- it just seems off balance.

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Just got a 1992 Subaru Royale with 200k miles, it’s great except that it rattles on the highway, any tips hints or advice? (I’m decent at wrenching if that helps)

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sell it and buy something worth owning. if you paid over 800 bucks for that thing you got boned

april 1st :^)

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$200, what’s wrong with it, I really like it

then for 200 its not completely terrible. yeah technically its a "classic" but its not really classic. read the first green text line of the thread post.

What engines in there? Back on highscool my buddy had an 80s Subaru wagon don't know the model though he loved that thing

1.8, don’t think it’s got a turbo, stick, selectable 4WD

Why is it not a classic, the loyale is to thank for literally every Subaru in the US today

I honestly think the defacto "something" means American car. But I love jap boxes. Been toying with getting something small, 4 banger, manual, and turbo in contrast to my large v8 supercharged 3 speed auto

Inb4 miata I'm like 6'3 259lbs naked and barefoot I wouldn't fit and probably wouldn't be able to operate all the pedals cramped under the wheel

Well, I wasn't able to figure it out tonight.

Where does one start with troubleshooting when it turns out but won't start?

I can smell the fuel, so it seems like there's no ignition. But I am a complete retard when it comes to distributors and timing. Since the wires were not hooked up inside, I'm willing to bet the guy who apparently fucked it up did something with the distributor. So maybe the point gap is wrong, or the timing is completely off, etc. How many things could be wrong? I need to find a screwdriver with an insulated handle to test for spark...

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I need some kind of material to make an exhaust gasket out of that wont burn up...

I bought some from advanced auto, but the exhaust was so hot it just turned the gaskets into ash...

Lmao. 3 speeds. Do a 700r4 swap

Had a 700r4 behind my 84 firebird 305. Wasn't too fond of it but I'm sure that had more to do with the anemic computer controlled quadrajet and the tall gears in the rear. Fell flat off the line but reached 135 after a few minutes and could cruise at 85 easily. I literally just got my street fighter th350 in this car like less than 200 miles ago and with a 3500 stall converter, I'm thinking 3.70 to 4.10 rear re gear with a posi to make it really snappy off the line since I don't daily it anymore

why are you making one?

So I've been lurking for a few months and i think I know a little more of what I want in my first project.
-Something cheap and with good part availability and preferably in running condition in the sub 4k range
-Something I can build up in the next few years to go fast (as in heavy acceleration) for street use and lots of horsepower
-Something late 60's, early 70's, American , v8, RWD. I'm still open to newer years and nationalities however
My cousin recommended me just to get a 3rd gen Camaro/Firdbird, but I don't want a cookie cutter car. I'm thinking something GM that can accept a 350 chevy, maybe a 4 door sedan since they're cheaper, someone recommended to just get an old truck at that price range. I also understand that making a sedan go fast will be harder then a coupe.

What do you guys think? Am i being too unrealistic? Do you have any recommendations?

Doesn't have a SBC from the factory, but this would be a very unique carro if you were to get one and plop a Chevy 350 in it.

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Well, I've been mulling about it for a few hours now. I suspect ignition because of what the PO told me and the disconnected wires, but I'm not sure. I need to check for spark first. If there is spark, I need to make sure the rotor/spark wires are correctly positioned. No spark, I need to test the coil, ballast resistor, condenser, point gap... Do you want to come over and help? I'm in the inner loop near Voss and Memorial.

Both of those hook up to the terminal on the points.
Oh and clean the points while you're in there.

I've got the dart up for sale, and for every legit person who's interested, I get about 50 scam text. Jesus Christ this annoying.

Also got one guy who way low balled me saying his wife won't let him spend more than X amount. How is that my issue?

The ups and downs of it all.

Anyways, once I've scraped the money together from selling the dart, I'm going to look at the trans am (if I can get the guy to get back to me; won't answer a phone call, text, or email), and if that doesn't pan out, a 76 Camaro.

gulfport.craigslist.org/cto/d/1979-trans-am/6531241801.html

mobile.craigslist.org/cto/d/1976-camaro/6510615829.html

What should I look for in both? What do y'all think are decent offers?

I'd prefer the TA because it should be less work for me and it's in overall better condition, but if all I've got to do is paint the Camaro, I'll do that.

When it turns but won't start, it boils down to 3 things: fuel, air, spark. Theres a problem with one of those. It's probably the points like drac said.

Yupp was having the same issue all day Monday too.

Pull a plug wire and check if it sparks to the body assuming it's metal. If it does and u have visible fuel spray then it's probably a timinf issue. Bonus point for back shot of gas up the carb meaning you have spark on an open intake valve

Sbc's are cancer, if you get an olds get a 350 olds.
I always worry when a car has non factory rims and paintjobs

heyhen

What the hell is that shit on the valve cover bolts? Looks hideous

Quick release. U can hand torque/loosen the valve covers and pop them off. My camaro had them when I bought it because the previous owner put on roller rockers and a street strip cam and would pop off the cover to show to people that they were in fact there.

>hed pop them off to show people they were actually there
Lmao

The car is a poster mobile

lol

I'm serious the guy popped them off right in front of me and showed me the rockers and shit.

Poster mobile?

Anyhow the carburetor/classics shop just called me. Lots of things

-distributor was 180 degrees out of time. I don't know how because I did everything per the manual like ive done 12 times before and I even stuck a straw in the spark plug hole and felt the top of the piston at TDC crushing the straw so it was compression and timing mark was at 0 but hey I was working on the car for 3 days straight 10 hours a day and that was my last step so fatigue and mistakes I'm guessing.
> At least it wasn't a missile launcher this time
-choke pull off was incorrect as I suspected, thermostatic choke was not getting anywhere near enough temp to open due to the new elevated mounting on top of the supercharger choke was perma closed which leads me to my next point
-vacuum secondaries on my carburetor were stuck closed by the choke pull off linkage. I knew this. I FUCKIN KNEW IT! but I didn't know how to fix it
-my ported vacuum switches/thermal vacuum switches were broken and I did fix them, however they were setup incorrectly for super charged applications since I used the oem vacuum diagram which didnt account for positive manifold pressure. they were getting manifold vacuum reference when they needed ported/part throttle.

Long story short engine was severely gimped and should basically feel like a whole new fucking car now. Picking it up this afternoon. Cost me 300 dollars because I'm retarded but the old guy was cool enough to break everything down for 30 minutes over the phone and says he wants to sit down and talk about carburetors and supercharger when I get here because he thinks it so cool a young cat is learning this tech and keeping the hot rod culture alive

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>Old guys teaching you about carbs

Good deal, that's how I learn

I'm pretty excited not only for the free hip pocket class on carburetors but also to see how the car feels now. I mean secondaries and choke stuck closed fuck that's like 75 percent of the power robbed right off the bat. And egr stuck open is basically a 1/8 npt sized vacuum leak. It should no shit feel twice as powerful by my estimation. Because even when I had all the emissions capped and bypassed (therefore removing the vacuum leak and restoring some power) the choke and secondaries were still stuck So fuck.

It's shitty because there's no references for this. online forums either cover factory smog specifications and vacuum tubing on the naturally aspirated LM1 engine which doesn't apply now that I have boost, or completely emissions stripped supercharged performance monster which doesn't apply because I HAVE to route vacuum to the emissions components. I don't think anyone ever built a California compliant "performance" LM1. you either know or you don't and I just plain out didn't know. Thankfully this dude knew what needs what and from where to pull it

idk, thought it'd be fun. I used aluminum foil for one of the connections further back, folded a sheet of it over a bunch of times and then flattened it out, and cut holes for the pipes and bolts made for a pretty good crush gasket and the connection is holding so far... unfortunately aluminum's melting point is too low to be right up at the header.

hey, whats up?

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Thought one of y'all would like this.
Shame they didn't make more Speedos like this one had.
montgomery.craigslist.org/cto/d/1969-olds-toronado/6505658682.html

make sure to tell the dude with the trans am that 400's only came with the 4 speed cars if he tries to up the price since it's a 400.

Front wheel drive 455, they don't make them like they used to.... probably for good reason. Cutlass if you're reading this and if you've ever worked on those torondados, how strong are the trans axles on those?

Meant this post to be for you
Ask him what engine it is, I doubt its an original XX.
Never worked on one personally so I have no idea. I have been told to avoid them because of the front wheel drive.

We're gettin there lads. Harness is ready, hot side is almost done, biggest pain now is the trans cooler fittings are in the floor so I gotta start bashing.

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My neighbor has one rotting away in a barn, They'd look bad ass if they were rear wheel drive. If it had it i'd part out the body and use the 455 and trans axle to make a bitchin' mid engine franken car with about any vehicle with a large trunk or slap it in the bed and make a mid engine pickup.

whats going on with that exhaust manifold?

Whos the guy who owns this?

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Turbo

I'd love to, but I'm swamped with work until the weekend.

I'm at the smog place send me your energy guys!

On a pllus though
>mfw secondaries finally open on supercharged v8 with no vacuum leaks and all systems go
>WHAAAAAAAAAP and blower WEEEEEEEEEE barely audible over shorty headers

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Anyone ever sell a car that had to be shipped? I got a buyer off of the FB market place who wants it shipped.
Also, how do you go about payment since PayPal seems to be the go to scam?

Godspeed friend

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Ok.
Im deadset on the swap for my TBI block now.
1st gen 4x4 s10.
>i want it to be efi
>i want it to be a solid camping/ beater mini truck.
Also how impractical would it be to drop a ford 4.6 out of a 2000's mustang into a mustang 2?
Theyre both kinda ugly duckling mustangs but a 300hp v8 is a 300hp v8 either way right?
Im just getting a little tired of LS and Sbc chevy nonsense and theres a fucking surplus of 96-05 mustang engines in my area and theres always a cheap mustang 2 nobody wants somewhere

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that's alright, I called a guy who's a Studebaker specialist and he gave me the number of someone in town who could help. He also explained how to adjust the points so I'm going to do that first.

Yo man so your the dude who more or less knows their stuff about the malaise era LM1s right?

They used the engine and transmission of the Toronado on Motorhomes so I imagine they are fairly strong

That is my favorite year of the Impala, beautiful car. I'd ditch the dog dishes though.

Get out.

ok battlefieldaces

Another 5.3 user, welcome to the club. what are you swapping into the fit the truck intake

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72 Chevelle

Just bought an '89 Pontiac Bonneville and am having trouble starting it. Unplugged my MAF sensor and the car idles fine after that but can't move much further than my driveway. I really don't want to Scottg Kilmer this thing and just start replacing parts I don't have to yet. Any advice?

You have a ton of room under that hood. Did you modify the frame at all

What happens when you try to move it?

no m8 its just a big boat

Lucky, i have clearance issues and no way around it besides chopping the hood or getting a new intake

I can move it a little bit with the MAF unplugged, but if I try to give it more gas to actually drive it, it sputters and hestitates so I can only smoothly drive it under 10mph.

>namefag triggered by different opinions

Fuck it, chop the hood

>ruining as good hood
these things are expensive now because of people like you

Good news bad news

My car is clean as fuck and powerful. Bad news. The fuckin smog cuck couldn't keep it steady at 15mph which means automatic fail. Didn't get charged though because I raised hell and claimed extortion muh veteran status blah blah blah. Stupid motherfucker couldn't just feather the throttle at 15mph and keep steady I heard him reving it like fuck in there no wonder it would jump from 12mph to 75 on the dyno Gotta find a new shop to smog this Thing.

It must suck to live in an urban jungle lib state.
Good luck finding a decent smog guy.

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Yea dude it's shitty. Guys a complete fucking moron too. I told him "it's supercharged, vacuum operated secondaries, 3500 stall converter. Ease into it and it'll get to 15 and stay there no problem. He was just mashing the throttle which opened the secondaries, supplied boost and locked the converter basically doing a launch on his dyno. They're all used to the fucking OBD2 smog where you just plug and check for codes nobody knows how to fuckin run a dyno. The old timer at the shop tested my exhaust with an analyzer and a thermometer and found it to be dam near perfect air fuel mixture and combustion. But some minimum wage douche fails me at the state emissions center.

I did grin like a kid though driving home when I had to beat a guy to merge and I accidentally chirped the tires and went blasting off the line at the stop light only to slam the brakes like 100 feet later. Shits mad fun now that its running right

>all this raging hate for California emissions
>79scbro now has a properly running car because of it and is a better mechanic
>we're all smarter about malaise era vacuum and emissions

California is still a cuck state, but kind of hard to argue with results.

Also, just saw the sub edition of this thread. Fucking kek, still haven't killed myself but the day's not over.

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No shit huh
I ended up getting a few of my vacuum lines rerouted to the right ports for manifold/ported vacuum and got an electric choke installed on a 2 minute timer. Pump gas once to close choke, pump gas again to shoot a little more fuel and turn key. Car snaps on no problem and fast idles at like 1100 or whatever then it drops off to 500rpm and 8 degrees before Tdc exactly as prescribed by the manual and we'll within spec for my supercharger. The EFE flapper kicks closed at startup and opens at exactly 110 degrees. The EGR kicks closed and opens up at 140 or whatever and only under vacuum. Thermostatic air cleaner in the snorkel is working now too snaps closed at startup and opens up when the engine is warm. The choke pulls off really smoothly and quickly now due to all this preheating, smells a lot better with the evap fixed, and shit and the idle and power is like a whole other car. Legit scared me chirping the tires and coming roaring to life from a stop. But dam dude my gas mileage is complete shit now that those big secondaries are opening up. Never have to worry about running lean though with those things. Spark plug browing issues I guess could be attributed to the choke being stuck closed while I was driving around all the time, my broken spark plug and cracked wires. Runs like a dream now and sounds phenomenal. Drove by the exhaust shop that fitted my shit and the owner actually heard me coming and stepped outside to wave as I drove by

Sounds like a bad fuel pump/clogged fuel filter if not change out ignition components

If i was going to chop a hood itd have to be rusting through and serve no purpose to anyone else

any idea why it would start and run under 10mph smoother than with the maf plugged in? I've cleaned the maf and the entire throttle body.

FUCK california.

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Not sure, but id start looking at fuel as the issue

Obligatory shitpost

But seriously, I’m considering buying a set of aluminum door cards for the 280ZX, because racecar. A company named Skillard makes a variety of products for S30 and S130 Datsun Z’s

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> no emissions
>plug all vacuum ports with threaded npt plugs
>remove egr efe thermac and smog pump
>throw on 200 dollar Shorties straight piped true dual
>850cfm Holley or edelbrock with mechanical secondaries and dual fuel
>electric fuel pump with regulator
>initial timing to 12 degrees, mechanical 18, no vacuum advance
>1 vacuum line, pcv
>overdrive supercharger to like 12 psi on 95 octane race gas

I'd make stupid fuckin amounts of power and could tune it all in an hour. Fuck it's so much simpler