WIP - painting/converting/sculpting general

Brownstuff user making the Pteruges and shoulders and shit. Do ye have a Kickstarter or something? I'll contribute because those are some nice Pteruges.

>want the models in the starter set
>already have two decks and the rule book

Should I just grab it anyways? A lot of money for 8 guys....

Go hunting on ebay, see if you can pick them up by themselves?

WIP apothecary terminator and regular melee terminator.

Lets try that the right side up

>mk.3
Nice

Armor and rusty gun are ok tabletop lvl. But mang, those yellow cables and blue lenses seem totally out of place.

i did not work on my genestealer cult after i finished my limo, but tonight i painted another broodbrother cultist and did some touch ups on brother zoiberg

The orderlies and bloodwretches ate sold separately if you prefer. The enforcers and henchmen aren't sadly. I got the whole thing for $47 on Ebay, as I am starting out with this game.

(From previous thread)
> I'd like to thank the guy who taught me about glazes and soap for improving my models.
Now I'm officially done and satisfied. Thoughts?

Your carapace armor has taken on a more warm red hue and goes much better with the warm blue and green you've used elsewhere on the minis. Good. About the only thing I'd suggest if your satisfied with the improved colors would be just a bit of dry brushing with a slightly lighter shade of gray to give the stones just a bit more illusion of depth. Otherwise - stop when you're happy with the results. Honestly while I'm impressed as hell with the pros / trophy winning painters - I sure as heck wouldn't want to spend 40 to 80 hours (or more) on every miniature I own. That said as you get better at brush control, and using various painting techniques you'll finish painting nicer minis more quickly. There's this crazy good painter from Germany called Agis Neugebauer. This guy is damn skippy fast and amazingly good.

agisn.de/html/miniatures.html

That's some nice work - for a Xenos lovin' Heretic!
(Have some scale posters to go with'em.)

I'm not a fan of the Chibi style minis - but your paint job still makes them look very appealing. Can't see alot of the NMM work in your pic, but it looks good from what I can see.

I kinda suck at these dang armored studs. Any tips for making them look good?

Can someone from WIP please explain this Johnny meme?

He's reloading? Or is he talking on the phone?

He's speaking with his font of endless wisdom.

His bolter magazine which controls him psychically.

I myself wish to see Johnny painted in all 18 Legion's color schemes.

>dang armored studs. Any tips for making them look good?

Well, you can spend a lot of time getting good at brush control with a 00 or 000 brush. Or you can pain the studs black, carefully hit them with your metallic color, and then to get the perfect black rings around them, you could use a technical pen like pick related. I use them to do the fine lines in the armor joints on some of my marines too.

Working more on Cassius.

Aha. Ill try the latter, I've long accepted I've got little natural talent.

Hey guys. So I was wondering if you knew any models that I could use to kitbash a female chaos zealot like in Warhammer Age of Reckoning (pic related). I've been looking a lot, but I haven't quite found anything that would look all too similar. Also I suck with green stuff. Anybody got any ideas for bodys that have at least similar clothing and are more or less easy to modify with other parts without being a sculpting genious?

Umm ok?

So the magazine is speaking to the inner Johnny?

What a time to be alive

How did I go from this...

to this....

... to THIS??

PLEASE SEND HELP

He look like he's been watching way too much porn on the internet.

He's got that look like he's about to crap his loin cloth. Heh!

What the hell? Troll model, or.. wtf lol.

I got greedy with the eyes... after half a bottle of whiskey I thought I could make them even better...

I was wrong.

Thin your wash to 50/50 before applying it to the studs. Just dab the brush lightly in one spot where the stud meets the legplate - the liquid will naturally flow around the stud. Use less, you can always give it a second application if it isnt dark enough.

Maybe hit those yellow edges with yellow + white mix.

Just don't paint the eyes at all, or wait until the very very end

Well to be fair that is what I've done in the past... but I really want to paint eyes on this model. Pic related

How the fuck do I do it though???

W&N Series 7 000. They're $10, sable, and as resilient as you could ask for.

Very very carefully. What many people recommend is not using a small detail brush, but a larger brush with a good tip so the paint doesn't dry up immediately when you put it on the eyes, so you don't have to force it. You outline the eyes before and afterwords of course. Then you put the black dot on.

Out of curiosity, what model is that?

This is the furthest I've gone painting the eyes up until this point

Yellow dots for monsters is usually enough. I like washing the eyes for more depth, but it is all that you need on most things that aren't human.

you dug too deep

fucking ordered
The model is this guy:
reapermini.com/Miniatures/legends human paladin/latest/03427
it comes with several different weapons to choose from. I picked the longsword because that is what the player's D&D character used whom I painted the model for.
I based it roughly off an old heroclix figure he had been using.

Looks great.

Looks good. Put a lighter blue, and then a white in the lenses. There are lens tutorials everywhere, it'll make a huge difference, do it.
Only criticism is the yellow is a bit thick.

Anyone have the roll your space marine chapter image?

No.

I'm too dedicated to the Heresy to even start another army, doing three legions, but I'll roll to see how things would go.

Looking great, the NMM came out very nice. Nice job with the eyes as well. Mage staff doesn't look that special but could look better in person than in a pic.

I'm sculpting ribs on this flayed chest from the BA upgrade sprue for my chaplain. The armor will be black but details will be red and bone like Astorath's. Kinda looks like a daemonette twerking his nips from behind.

Also I know my nails are long. It's been three days since I trimmed them but I'm a mutant

why?

Certainly better than the heroclix figure. You may want to go over the freehand more and give the sarong a much higher highlights on the edges. The face could also use some more highlights on the cheeks. After that I would probably recommend using an actual base to make it look nicer.

that is a Mage Knight figure sir, they predate heroclix, honestly just calling it a clix figure would have been accurate

It's not much yet, but I couldn't sleep last night so I thought I'd make a center piece. It's going to be a necron portal of sorts. I sanded a piece of plastic to frost it up a bit and try to diffuse the light a bit but I may just have to dim them.

I've never made a terrain piece yet, and haven't touch electronics in forever. I'm thinking of having stairs leading up to it and maybe some columns holding the platform up to hide behind. Any recommendations/inspirational art?

>about to spend $27 to get an average quality mini of a character I barely play
>but I'll also get a back up of the mini as well as a few spare angel wings
I mean, the metal minis that Reaper sells can be left overnight in acetone, right?

This may be of interest to you.

Of course. They have held up well for me when I dunk them.

Holy shit yes. This might be perfect. Now I got some real ideas....

I wish I could find another company who's mini's I like. Spent half an hour trying to shave mold lines off a metal mini I bought from Reaper and the wrist (where you join the hand piece) is just FUBAR

Would Vallejo Deep Blackgreen be similar to the Forgeworld Sons of Horus colour scheme? If not, are there any paints that are?

That isn't exactly unique to Reaper. There are figures like Abbadon whose hands are notorious for falling off, and I can't cound the amount of times that fiddly bits on my Infinity figures haven't made the trip to the club in one piece. You might want to try pinning the wrist. You can get a pin vice for less than $5 and I am sure that paperclips can be found for free.

Alright, here's my latest attempt at painting. I tried to make them resemble the ones in the back (that I bought painted), but they're not too similar. I feel my highlights are too big and I should have blended them. I kind of like them though not going to lie. Just need some more inspiration for the bases for the 3.

Also did more work on the crystal bases I was doing. I think they look much better (and brighter), but not quite there yet?

Hey guys, got another "any item" Michaels coupon here.
Online promo codes are on the coupons.

One more
I don't have the money to use em right now so here you guys go.
I may also add myself to the hobby lobby mailing list.

youtube.com/watch?v=yivK1ALJP4g

magazine is plank and johnny is marine.

his magazine speaks wisdom to him.

Hey WIP.

I have an Imperial Guard Chimera all cleanly basecoated etc. and ready for highlighting/shading.

My issue is that the colour scheme I'm using is red / white, so most of the hull of the Chimera is pristine white. Understandably it looks very flat... but I can't highlight it because it's already white. Would it be safe for me to just drown the whole fucking thing in good old Agrax Earthshade to give it a dirtier colour and then highlight up from there?

Just starting a Steel Confessors army, fells like the models need a little something. Any ideas how to make them look better?

Oh shit disregard the unpainted purity seal, it's a work in progress.

Washes and clean ups from the look of it. Considering painting your whites in an off white like Pallid Which Flesh.

Shoulder insignias (some great custom transfers online for obscure SM chapters) and a good solid shade wash of some kind might be ideas.

> Just starting a Steel Confessors army, fells like the models need a little something. Any ideas how to make them look better?

Yes. See the meltagun. ther is a part of the sprue left on the barrel. Also paint it black or drill a hole in it.

make the base, it reallly adds to a model.

You might want to try the new gemstone paints for eyes and lenses

I'll be back later to show improvements. Thanks for the advice

>Can someone from WIP please explain this Johnny meme?

Sure. We really should have a page on 1d4chan for this, but I've been too lazy to write it. Maybe I'll get around to it. Emperor knows, we have enough Johnny images.

>He's reloading? Or is he talking on the phone?

He's actually reloading. If you look at the model from above, you can see the unexpended bolts in the magazine.

In an old Citadel Miniatures flier - and later ads in White Dwarf Magazine - the first run of Aly Morrison/Citadel beekees were given names matching the cast of the 1960's Batman TV serial starring Adam West. So there was a Brother (Adam) West, Brother (Burt) Ward, Brother (Burgess) Meredith, etc.; and this lad was Brother (Yvonne) Craig.

Later, when these beekees were reproduced in the blue 1990 catalogue, everyone was assigned generic names ("Bolter #10", "Meltagun", "Plasma Gun #2") and part numbers. Brother Craig was noticeably absent, though. If he has a real part number, I couldn't tell you what it might be. I don't have any of the fliers older than that catalogue.

>So the magazine is speaking to the inner Johnny?

You ever watch Ed, Edd, and Eddy? You know the character Jonny 2x4, who walks around talking to the wooden board, Plank, as if he's having a conversation with it? One clever user created a meme image after that fashion (pic related is one that actually came later) because it looks like our Johnny is having a conversation with his ammunition in exactly the same way.

Hey wip, thoughts? I don't want to add any gold to this model, but I'm testing out schemes for my beastman-esque legion of everblight army.

Do I need another spot color? or should I try a rust effect? If so, where should I apply it?

Army is on brown and green forest bases with scattered rocks and logs.

aaand the back. Most of the nyss have a green spot, warbeasts have green skin.

>Also did more work on the crystal bases I was doing. I think they look much better (and brighter), but not quite there yet?

Approved!

Also the lenses are very flat. Try this technique.

Here is some of my recent work.

I honestly think I used to be a lot better when I painted in my teenaged years. I'm coming on 25 now and I feel like I just don't have the same patience for detail as I used to be.

Anyways tell me what you think. I picked up these minis hoping to do a warhammer fantasy skirmish/mordheim type deal.

And the dwarfs. I'm trying to keep the different teams contrasted visually on the table.

And now the monsters Ive finished for the game. Im crazy about the reaper bones.

Anyway what do you think? I'm mostly a drybrusher (bad habit but it gets the job done quick). My detail work needs improving but I do believe I have an eye for shading and good color distribution.

I like the scheme, the thing might look better with a galze and then explicit highlights on top however, as the drybrushing looks a little jarring. All in all those would make a solid set for playing Frostgrave or Mordheim.

It's odd that I'm posting these detail shots because it's up close that my work looks amateur. From further away they look more striking. I can't paint with dark colors.

Try making a lightbox to do the figures justice. Also be more conscious about your moldlines, people do notice them.

Right on. I do think you're right. I know the drybrushing fails a detailed inspection. I have a hard time finding good ways to do actual highlighting unless I've seen a painted version of the model I'm on. I will do my other Minotaur like that and post it in the next thread.

Awesome tutorial man. That is dope. Simple, too. I have everything laying around the house to make that already.

Remember to use the pic as a reference! Going by memory is bad.

I should know.

Also, they look pretty sweet man, post more pics later!

Just random characters. I imagine the center guy is a dishonored Brettonian knight looking to redeem his honor.

How would I emulate white lichen on wood when painting something? Also, does anyone know what sort of MDF bases I should look for on ebay if I want to do scenery pieces? I got a bunch of plastic model trees that I plan on putting together to make a few groves for terrain.

Now looking at it, my armor too dark and the pads are too white. Thanks for the tip, nothing some Ironbreaker/Runefang Steel and Screaming skull can't fix.

What did you do to that mini??

Aye, the pads and knees are more of a light bone color, or a creamy white, I suppose. An easy fix!

Glad to help out user, they're one of my favorite chapters.

Finished this guy the other day. I plan on using him as a barbarian in my Frostgrave warband. It wasn't until I took the pic that I noticed that glaring white spot of unpainted primer near his face. His skin didn't turn out the way I wanted, but for a tabletop quality paintjob, I think I did okay.

Well if you're going for a 90s aesthetic then you nailed it

Jesus Christ, , man. What did you prime these with? They are so grainy it looks like you glued sand to them.

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but I didn't want to make a new thread. I'm planning on offloading a small force of necrons on ebay but I'm not sure what would constitute a fair price. It's not posted yet and I'm not gonna provide a link cause I don't want to come off like I'm advertising.
So /wip/, what do you think would be a fair price for pic related?

Honestly, I might be interested for $40-50. There really isn't that much done to them to justify them as being "Well painted"

Depends on shipping as well.

50% of whatever those units are worth. People can buy them new for 20% off so there's no point in charging anything above 80% MSRP as they would likely prefer new ones over pre-painted and assembled ones.

"But what if the buyer wants them pre built and painted". That's a perk to being a buyer, not a seller. Buyers who want pre-painted shit can take their pick of the litter from used eBay army lots that go for far below what the models are worth. Your bases are also outdated so that's not a point in your favor. The paint job doesn't look thick and you didn't paint over the tubes or build them retardedly so you might be able to charge more than usual for them but who knows.