no, not in the least, good habits. If anything you are being almost over-cautious haha
One thing you can do is rather than pouring paints out is use a wet-palette, basically something that will let you mix paints and water on -- i use a piece of wax paper with wet paper towels underneath -- you can plop down some paints then put a little water on, and mix until the right consistency is met. But even a paper/plastic plate or wet paper towels can work. This also gives you an easy way to mix colors if you want to
/dcg/ Dropzone/Dropfleet Commander General
Hunter Clark
Jayden Moore
thanks for the advice. I'm going to start to work painting the basecoats on, and if it turns out well in an hour or two I'll be posting up some photos.
Tyler Nguyen
since you are going to adding a bit of water to your paints dont be discouraged if you dont get a ton of color in one layer. Also if your start getting beading (like a bead of water starts sliding down the model) you've probably got too much material on your brush, and you may have thinned your paints too....
No, I can't say it. But you've got too much water on your brush (whew, close one)
Blake Fisher
awesome, I look forward to it!
Anthony Brooks
I'm trying to go for the full on Giger alien effect with my Scourge - just black and varying shades of dark green, with bright poison green for the eyes and lighty weapon bits. Anyone got any tips for how I can get the most of out of a dark, mostly low contrast scheme like this? I've been playing tabletop model games for a long time but painting has never really been a big part of the hobby for me and most of my armies are bare plastic, I really want the DFC models to look nice though.
Jace Gonzalez
well, honestly I can think of two ways to pull of a scheme like that using the opposite approaches
The black approach -- basically you start with a black/dark primer or base coat, and you work upward in colors. You can use really dark greens to add the suggestion of the curves and contours and adds an almost subconscious hue to the model, but with dark green on black it may take a ton of layers until it shows up. If you don't want to do tons of layers you can instead use a grey tone to pull out your highlights and then just hit the whole model with a dark green wash. Then go back and do the eyes and weapon lights.
The white approach -- in this you would actually start with the dark green color, and shade downwards -- it'd be a ton more work but if you're really good you'd have more control over your black depth. but it'd be a LOT more work and I personally am nowhere near that patient.
Wyatt Evans
>email from The War Store
>phase 2 is finally shipping out
>turns out that Hawk accidentally shipped all the pre-orders to Georgia, rather than NY
kek
Jonathan King
If you are confident in a wash technique, prime-white, paint the highlight, then wash black as fuck is very easy, and looks GREAT. It's fast, but just needs a bit of sense as you're sorta layering a tint over an existing color.
Luis Cooper
Thanks for the tips bros. I have to reiterate, though, while I'm very confident in having a steady hand, I don't really have very much experience at all with painting techniques, so I'm not sure yet which of these methods I would go with. Can the second user elaborate on how I get a white-primed model to turn black with simple wash? Any tutorial videos you guys have would really help as well.
Justin Brooks
This one's on the hawk forums and works fucking great.
hawkforum.co.uk