/hwg/ - Historical Wargames General

Onward Edition

Previous thread: boards.Veeky Forums.org/tg/thread/49292000

Get in here, post games, miniatures, questions, whatever you like.

List of mini providers:
docs.google.com/document/d/1uGaaOSvSTqpwPGAvLPY3B5M2WYppDhzXdjwMpqRxo9M/edit
List of Historical Tactical, Strategic, and Military Drill treatises:
pastebin.com/BfMeGd6R
ZunTsu Gameboxes:
mediafire.com/folder/yaokao3h1o4og/ZunTsu_GameBoxes
/hwg/ Steam Group:
steamcommunity.com/groups/tghwg/

Games, Ospreys & References folders:
mediafire.com/folder/lu95l5mgg06d5/Ancient
mediafire.com/folder/81ck8x600cas4/Medieval
mediafire.com/folder/w6m41ma3co51e/Horse_and_Musket
mediafire.com/folder/vh1uqv8gipzo1/Napoleonic
mediafire.com/folder/bbpscr0dam7iy/ACW
mediafire.com/folder/bvdtt01gh105d/Victorian
mediafire.com/folder/b35x147vmc6sg/World_War_One
mediafire.com/folder/z8a13ampzzs88/World_War_Two
mediafire.com/folder/z8i8t83bysdwz/Vietnam_War
mediafire.com/folder/7n3mcn9hlgl1t/Modern

mediafire.com/folder/8tatre3vd10yv/Avalon_Hill
mediafire.com/folder/pq6ckzqo3g6e6/Field_Of_Glory
mediafire.com/folder/r2mff8tnl8bjy/GDW
mediafire.com/folder/whmbo8ii2evqh//SPI
mediafire.com/folder/ws6yi58d2oacc/Strategy_&_Tactics_Magazine
mediafire.com/folder/lx05hfgbic6b8/Naval_Wargaming
mediafire.com/folder/s1am77aldi1as/Wargames
mega.nz/#F!ZAoVjbQB!iGfDqfBDpgr0GC-NHg7KFQ

Other urls found in this thread:

mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
mega.nz/#F!XsVD0KgT!twB1NWiFE3aKXK_O1EZ4pA
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
mega.nz/#F!i1N3xZxL!C6fQ3Z8o2U0gtk5kdXuVcQ
mediafire.com/download/cf83qc8k0f2w8wx/Osprey - MAA 473 - New Zealand Expeditionary Force In World War I.pdf
mediafire.com/download/24pi29m46t08edl/Osprey - VAN 100 - British Mark I Tank 1916.pdf
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

>Wargaming Compendium
mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
>Saga
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
>Black Powder
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
>Bolt Action
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
>Hail Caesar
mega.nz/#F!XsVD0KgT!twB1NWiFE3aKXK_O1EZ4pA
>Warhammer Ancient battles 2.0
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
>Warmaster Ancients
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
>Advanced Squad Leader
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
>Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
>Battleground WWII
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
>By Fire And Sword
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
>Modelling & painting guides
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
>Twilight 2000/2013 RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
>Phoenix Command RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
>Next War (GMT)
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
>Battlegroup
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
>Fleet Series
mega.nz/#F!i1N3xZxL!C6fQ3Z8o2U0gtk5kdXuVcQ

Desired scans :
Black Powder supplements
Rank and File supplements
Harpoon 3 & 4 supplements
Force on Force supplements
Hind Commander
At Close Quarters
War and Conquest

15th of September in military history:

994 – Major Fatimid victory over the Byzantine Empire at the Battle of the Orontes.
1762 – Seven Years' War: Battle of Signal Hill.
1776 – American Revolutionary War: British forces land at Kip's Bay during the New York Campaign.
1812 – The French army under Napoleon reaches the Kremlin in Moscow.
1812 – War of 1812: A second supply train sent to relieve Fort Harrison is ambushed in the Attack at the Narrows.
1816 – HMS Whiting runs aground on the Doom Bar
1820 – Constitutionalist revolution in Lisbon, Portugal.
1821 – Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica jointly declare independence from Spain.
1862 – American Civil War: Confederate forces capture Harpers Ferry, Virginia.
1873 – Franco-Prussian War: The last German troops leave France upon completion of payment of indemnity.
1894 – First Sino-Japanese War: Japan defeats Qing dynasty China in the Battle of Pyongyang.
1916 – World War I: Tanks are used for the first time in battle, at the Battle of the Somme.
1918 – World War I:The Battle of Dobro Pole is fought, Entente troops break through the Bulgarian defenses on the Macedonian Front eventually liberating Vardar Macedonia and forcing Bulgaria to sign the Armistice of Salonica.
1940 – World War II: The climax of the Battle of Britain, when the Royal Air Force shoots down large numbers of Luftwaffe aircraft.
1942 – World War II: U.S. Navy aircraft carrier USS Wasp is sunk by a Japanese torpedo at Guadalcanal.
1944 – Battle of Peleliu begins as the United States Marine Corps' 1st Marine Division and the United States Army's 81st Infantry Division hit White and Orange beaches under heavy fire from Japanese infantry and artillery.
1948 – The F-86 Sabre sets the world aircraft speed record at 671 miles per hour (1,080 km/h).
1950 – Korean War: United States forces land at Inchon.
1990 – France announces it will send 4,000 troops to the Persian Gulf.

Today marks the centennary of the Battle of Flers–Courcelette, a week-long battle that was a part of the great Somme Offensive of 1916. It had the objective of cutting a hole in the German line by using massed artillery and infantry attacks. This hole would then be exploited with the use of cavalry. It was the third and final general offensive mounted by the British Army during the Somme. By its conclusion on the 22nd, the strategic objective of a breakthrough had not been achieved; however tactical gains were made in the capture of the villages of Courcelette, Martinpuich and Flers. In some places, the front lines were advanced by over 2,500 yards (2,300 m) by the Allied attacks.

The battle is significant for the first use of the tank in warfare. It also marked the debut of the New Zealand Division on the Somme battlefield.

Just less than six months after its first tests, General Sir Douglas Haig had wanted to launch the first mass tank attack on the opening day of the Battle of the Somme. However, the manufacturers could not have the tanks ready in time for the first attacks on 1 July. Two and a half months later, as Flers–Courcelette was being planned, the tanks were delivered and Haig had General Sir Henry Rawlinson, his subcommander in charge of 4th Army (the troops that would carry out the attack), incorporate them into his battle plans. From the beginning the tanks were challenged by having to traverse the heavily upset terrain of the Somme battlefield while still beset with numerous mechanical failings and manned by crews that had had little training in their operation. Nonetheless, the decision was taken to send the 49 tanks that were available into battle on the 15th.

The performance of the tanks was patchy. Of the 49 only 32 were able to reach their assigned start positions on the battlefield and of them, seven failed to start, leaving 25 moving forward at the commencement of the attack. In the end, the tanks proved to be largely a psychological asset, emboldening the attackers and intimidating the defenders where they moved forward. Tactically however, they provided little advantage or support to the attackers with most breaking down or becoming immobilized in the terrain of the battlefield and only nine actually reaching and penetrating the German lines. Even where they were successful they were hard pressed to advance across the cratered battlefield faster than a soldier's walking pace. But the flaws that were exposed in the designs of the Mark I at Flers–Courcelette led to design improvements and the development of better tactics, which made the tank a formidable weapon by the war's end.

On the opening day of the battle, Raymond Asquith, son of the British Prime Minister (H. H. Asquith), was killed. Four Victoria Crosses were won - one by a Kiwi, one by a Canadian, and two by Guardsmen.

Ultimately, the Battle of the Somme would continue for almost two more full months after Flers–Courcelette, but none of the battleplans that followed set the grand objectives that Flers–Courcelette or the July battles of Albert, and Bazentin Ridge had when total breakthrough was the intended outcome of the attacks. Though there was success found in pushing the Germans back at Flers–Courcelette, the failure to decisively cut through the German lines convinced Haig and his Army commanders Rawlinson and Gough to scale back their objectives in further attacks on the Somme to smaller 'bites' of strategically significant territory in limited attacks.

The battle of Flers-Courcelette was much more successful than the general attack on 1 July had been, but it had failed to achieve its main aim, of punching a hole in the German lines. Although the British had come close to the rear of the original German lines, the Germans still had enough reserves to restore the situation after the early successes.

The use of the tanks at Flers-Courcelette will always be controversial. Although they failed to achieve the great breakthrough, many contemporary accounts record how welcome they had been, and how helpful the surviving tanks were to the advance. The most serious charge laid against Haig is that he revealed his new secret weapon prematurely, reducing the chance of winning a major breakthrough using them. However it is possible to argue that the poor performance of the tanks on the Somme, and over the next few months, lulled the German High Command into a false belief that they were ineffective weapons. It is also argued that the use of the tanks at Flers-Courcelette taught their designers important lessons, making later tanks more effective.

By the time of its withdrawal from the front lines on 4 October, the New Zealand Division had suffered 7,000 casualties, 1,500 of them fatal, since 15 September. On the opening day of the battle alone, there were 2,050 casualties from the 6,000 men who joined the fighting. During September, the Germans on the Somme lost about 130,000 casualties, the most costly month of the battle.

Flers–Courcelette is a definitive WW1 Western Front battle that offers several wargaming opportunistic. Played at the strategic level gamers could try to improve on the Allied performance, while on a smaller, tactical scale tank-heads can roll out in their historical debut.

mediafire.com/download/cf83qc8k0f2w8wx/Osprey - MAA 473 - New Zealand Expeditionary Force In World War I.pdf
mediafire.com/download/24pi29m46t08edl/Osprey - VAN 100 - British Mark I Tank 1916.pdf

Reminder that the August-September /hwg/ community project is a 'Command Unit', rolling over on the 16th. The most popular suggestion for the next subject is a non-combatant of some kind.

Based OP, fighting the good men doings fights fight

I love my country

May I suggest we go with combat medic or medical something for the next group project

But before the 20th century combat medics basically aren't a thing. It's a very narrow topic where we try to keep it broad for all eras and propensities to floating.

Well then at least I can do a prisoner for a non combatant

I did like that idea myself. There's lots of possible options.

Could be a saw-wielding surgeon, a tribal shaman, a nursing sister in her robes, and so forth. Naval anons could go for a hospital ship. Every period of military history has some sort of appropriate choice.

Even just a guy with rags in hand ready to mop up blood/stop bleeding

>Could be a saw-wielding surgeon, a tribal shaman, a nursing sister in her robes, and so forth. Naval anons could go for a hospital ship. Every period of military history has some sort of appropriate choice.
All of these also come under non-coms.

Personally I can do some sort of medicinal/medical figure so I'm not against it, but it's just a narrowing of non combatant really.

>What's the deal with the equipment on the Chinese troops in Ronin? Captain and soldier have both medium armour, but the captain has a shield while the soldier doesn't. Should the captain have heavy armour or should the soldiers have shields?
This is what happens when you have Western authors who are historically illiterate.

Ming rank and file used wicker,rattan and wooden shields in conjunction with the saber.

Ming officers don't use shields and period artwork depicts them with bows.

I have my Grandfather's one of those in a glass display cabinet alongside my Flames of War Armoured Company.

Please tell me it's an NZ Armoured Company.

>Ming officers don't use shields and period artwork depicts them with bows.

Yeah archery was a big thing for higher-ranking Chinese nobles at the time. I do think there's a few accounts of them opting to fight with a shield though.

Mind also, the unit called Captain is, positionally speaking, really more like a sergeant. He's got the same rank and stats as an ashigaru-gashira.

Guards Armoured actually. My Rifle Company is NZ though, 3rd Infantry Division.

>I do think there's a few accounts of them opting to fight with a shield though.
Would be strange for the officers to have a shield as they mostly used in formations.

I don't recall Ming cavalry ever using shields on horseback either.

>Mind also, the unit called Captain is, positionally speaking, really more like a sergeant. He's got the same rank and stats as an ashigaru-gashira.
Realistically a lower ranking officer would carry a handheld pennant/banner,saber and a bow.

Strange how they didn't bother differentiating the mounted officer sculpt from the rank and file.

>I don't recall Ming cavalry ever using shields on horseback either.

Looking at the stats...hm, you're right, none of the Ming cavalry options can take a shield.

>Realistically a lower ranking officer would carry a handheld pennant/banner,saber and a bow.

Banners ARE an option for Ming, though I think you have to designate a Soldier model to carry it. Still that said, I'm not really sure what you're looking at here is an officer so much as a mudfoot in charge of other mudfeet. Are you sure that the leaders of the smallest squads of Ming infantry would ALWAYS carry the banner himself?

>Strange how they didn't bother differentiating the mounted officer sculpt from the rank and file.

Yeah, I'm not overfond of the official minis either. Gotta be better 28mm Ming soldiers you can stick on the right size bases.

>Looking at the stats...hm, you're right, none of the Ming cavalry options can take a shield.
Perhaps mounted archery took precedence.

>Are you sure that the leaders of the smallest squads of Ming infantry would ALWAYS carry the banner himself?
Qi Jiguang's Mandarin Duck formation certainly did. Though his ideas were far from universal.

>Yeah, I'm not overfond of the official minis either. Gotta be better 28mm Ming soldiers you can stick on the right size bases.
Shame there really isn't any quality 28mm ranges out there.

Irregular,Forlorn Hope and Scheltrum are lackluster at best.

> 1816 – HMS Whiting runs aground on the Doom Bar

Well, there's worse fates to be had.

when did wargames factory shut down I really liked them

Warlord bought them out, they're supposedly going to be rereleasing their kits on their own site.

Last year, but they didn't shut down technically.

They sold the rights to distribute their minis to Warlord, but they still design new stuff i think.

How many of their old kits are up on warlord?

Just got my BA V2 book.

Haven't looked into it yet, but i think its a bit heavier than V1 rules.

The Patton mini is extremely good though. No flash at all and minimal moldlines/cleaning needed. Way better than other Warlord minis i had the "pleasure" to clean in the past.

I don't play US but i think i'll actually paint him.

The Zombie stuff (with three or so new kits), AWI (with two or so new kits), and Samurai sprues, nothing more yet, but I guess they'll do the rest.

Any plans for scanning it?

From out of my head:

>Zombie stuff
>AWI stuff
>ork sprues
>samurai sprues

Whats missing is their sci-fi stuff, the dark age and the ww2 lines, but i might have overlooked some of them

About to start some redcoats. How do I paint white, ive never really had to before

Start with light grey, use pure white only for extreme highlights.

The biggest tip is that really only the final highlight should be white. The rest should be off white or light grey.

remember to thin your paints

Lots o' thin layers.

I'd start with a bone color as base/primer (AP has a spray for example), then washing it with light brown wash (sepia shade or something like that) and then highlight with bone again and then only the final highlights as actual white.

>finish painting a figure
>looks great
>wait
>forgot a fucking moldline

welp in the trash it goes

>do the same
>oh well, I'll just pretend it isn't there, no one will find out.

well I was going to post it here but I just threw it in the trash. Will pick up another box tomorrow and retry

just strip it and start again. Why would you throw it away.

>well I was going to post it here but I just threw it in the trash

Plastic doesnt strip properly, the recesses will be layered poorly. Gotta start again, moldlines are unacceptable.

This. Like it sucks but its not the end of the world. If it looks good its cool its just a blemish

post picture of moldline please. I want to know whether you are insane or not.

I disagree with as grey-based white looks too clean to me. Instead I suggest a cream base, starting from a sandy khaki if you have to, before highlighting up to white.

Well, its your mini after all...

Im not crawling through the trash full of food scraps for it. It was pretty much like this picture all the way down one leg

Do people really care about a single mould line that badly. I often forget to remove all of them... Are my minis invalid now?

I had one mini that had a big one on the head that I didnt notice until I was done.

I just scraped the line off and then repainted that bit of the model.

Invalid? No.

Less pretty? Yes.

That is pretty rough in fairness.

Pipe clayed leather should probably be based grey.

Only if you're a turbo-autist and don't know if you can paint the affected areas after removing the above mentioned mouldline.

It's not like I remove 10% of the mouldlines after basecoating because I didn't notice them.

well.. i guess ill avoid posting them here

why? This isn't WIP, models can still look good with mold lines.

I'm not going to ask for a scan, but since I'm in the process of building my Desert Rats, I will ask if you can share any basing requirements. Specifically, are there basing requirements for crew-served weapons (Bren Guns, AT guns, etc) and what are they?

I don't want to glue a bunch of figures to a single 60mm base and then find out I have to have them individually-based.

Not really. I never scanned a book and i don't think i can do it properly with my cheap scanner/printer. I might try it, but i won't promise anything.

I'll see if i find anything in regards of basing while reading. I'll post about it later today.

Thank you very much in advance, sir.

Post cool terrain

So i flipped through the book and found these 2 bits specifically mentioning crew served weapons with multibases.
Besides that there are no rules for basing. You can do them as you want.

I also found a mislabeled image already.. a Flamm-Hetzer is labeled as regular Hetzer.

And i saw a curious pic of a L&L soviet M10 Wolverine.. did they really get some of these?

...

Yup, the Soviets got some M10s.

>soviet M10 Wolverine.. did they really get some of these?
yes, several dozen according to wiki

So I'm putting together an exploration game - probably for solo play - how do these look for the available periods? Also... any other famous explorer to put in the 1930s - 1950's bracket?
If I can replay something like Shackelton's failed antarctic mission or attempting to summit K2 in the 50s, I'll be pretty happy. It will focus on the grit of individuals and pushing themselves to the absolute limits of human endurance.

That answers my questions perfectly.

Thank you, user. Off to base some Brits!

Cool, i might get one for my soviets then. Always loved how it looks.

>tfw centenary of tank warfare
>tfw have touched the Little Willy

L..lewd

Are coir doormats tall enough (deep enough?) for 28mm wheat fields?

Does anyone have any experience with them as such.

Pic mostly related.

>get bored of main project, start new one
>do some of that, start new one
>now getting bored of third one and wanna go back to first

HELP
ME

I've seen people use Teddy Bear fur to decent effect.

It also won't scuff your minis like a doormat might.

>and wanna go back to first

Do it. Then cycle through until all are finished.

Don't start #4.

Well, I thought that they are pretty low even in 1:72.But they work still, most people use them, check for photos.

Some are, others aren't.

Go to your local furniture shop and check their selection and see if they have something you can use

Generally yes. Though they can stand to be mown.

Sorry m8, can't help you there.

You're one of us now.

Hmmm by the looks of things they definitely are slightly short. Unfortunately I don't think trampled fields are appropriate for the small raids of the FIW, but it certainly looks good.

For now I'll just get some livestock and think about wheat in the future.

Maybe you can cut them down a little further and pretend its a freshly scythed field?

Also, the wheat takes time to grow. For wargaming july/may it's all right.

Not all mats are made equal in height. Certainly possible to get thicker ones.

Bolt action 2nd edition is delivered to most people, I hope we will get a copy soon, post here if you have any information.

So i would like too start Bolt Action mow with the new edition out and all of that stuff, i still cant decide on an army, im potentially interested in Soviets and French.The main reason im afraid of French are that they are all made out of metal.My friend i would play with has Americans which of course makes no sense when fighting but i find the Germans and Italians kinda boring.
Anybody can help me?

Oh yes i would love to go with an Winter Army

Playing Soviets myself i can only recommend them. Nice variety of gear and minis.

Metal minis aren't so terrible actually, the problem with French in particular is that they are essentially an early war army.
If you would play a late war french army, you'd play US (because the french units wore US uniforms and drove US vehicles).

US vs SU is possible without a problem as some kind of "what if" scenario or maybe even as some kind of training exercise.

US vs France is also possible though. Vichy-France was on the side of the germans and they fought against the Americans in northern africa/Algeria. Problem with them being early war is the same though.

What about Japanese?

>Oh yes i would love to go with an Winter Army
Well, then Soviets, since the only plastic box belongs to them, the others are all metal in their winter glory.

Well thought about that but i doubt Winter Japanese look nice, Soviets seem kinda fun since they also had captured tanks aswell as allied tanks at their disposale

Would it be possible to scrounge together some units from other period troops? I've been looking at Assault Group stuff with some illustrations of Ming era soldiers in one hand. Have to check out those other shops as well.

I don't even know when I'd buy any, but I like to keep my options open. Still working on my samurai, sohei, bandits, ikko-ikki and Boshin War dudes.

Speaking of other periods, what about fookin' Mongolians? Fireforge makes plastic 25 model infantry kits and 12 model cavalry that can probably fill unarmoured and lightly armoured troops and cavalry. Heavy infantry and cavalry is still left open.

WIP Bolt Action pics were requested a few threads ago when I was asking all those questions. So here's the first one.

Top-left shows the three infantry squads (minus the Bren teams), the LT and signaler, and a custom-built medic and aide, and the mandatory British universal carrier. I still need to find a half-dozen Commandos to ride in the Bren carrier, but I really dislike the Warlord sculpts and I don't want to order another 40 infantry from Perry to get 6 guys, so I'll keep looking around. I don't need them to play 500 and 750-pt games anyway.

Top right and bottom-right are all my various teams just being primed (since I just found out I can put the guys on the same base); 3 Bren teams, 1 2" mortar, 1 Boyes AT rifle, 1 6-pdr AT gun, and a 3-man Vickers team. I'll give them a spray basecoat in a few hours, and then head out to find a good khaki paint to go over the washed basecoat; all of the khaki's I own are too dark for the Desert Stone colors the Brits used.

Bottom left is my forward observers, and my Tamiya 1/48th Crusader MkIII (which has some of the worst directions of any Tamiya model I've ever assembled). I hadn't assembled a tank in a really long time (last ones were GW models for my Imperial Guard), and I'd forgotten how much I hate, *hate*, HATE, assembling tracks.

For any new BA players, this - plus the half-dozen Commandos I can't have yet - is slightly more than 1,000 points worth of troops in that system, as a quick reference point.

And something I've been working on off-and-on for a while now, my first "sculpted" board. I normally play on playmats with terrain thrown onto them. This was intended for SAGA, but it's big enough that I can run any 4x4-size game on it. My local hobby store sells 18" square terrain "mats" that can be glued down for model railroading; I tried to use those here, but the lines where the mats meet one another are practically impossible to disguise and they're thick enough that they're blatant if they overlap. I won't use them again.

>the stitched-together picture is too big to attach

The white in the water is Woodland Scenics Water Effects, which I applied last night and which are still curing. Unfortunately, the river is too small for my Viking Ship, so I'm probably going to have to build a coastline board in the future.

>2/3

The edging is stained basswood, to protect the foam making up the board. It also gives me a basis to attach the boards; the big issue with multi-part boards is getting the things to stick together. I'm going to attach velcro straps to the basswood on the outside, so that will hold the two board pieces flush against one another.

After all the water dries (probably end of day Friday), I'll go back through and clean up the sand on the board. There's some places where the water resin splashed, I need to even out the edges of the river (they don't *quite* match up), and I somehow completely fucked the sand along the edge of the road where the boards meet.

Still, for the first time I've ever done a build like this, I'm fairly happy with how it's turning out. Large-scale terrain building was *never* my thing.

>3/3

Maybe the aviators? Earhart, Lindbergh, etc
Long time to spend alone in a cockpit without sleep.
Single-handed yachtsmen? When were Alec Rose, Francis Chichester?

This. Painting blacks works similarly, except that only the shadows should be true black, midtones need to be a dark gray, and maybe a mid gray for highlights. Just make sure that all of your paints you're using have the same color bias, or else it's gonna look off.

I've recently started doing a 'phoney war' French army can thoroughly recommend it. I love the french models and I'm currently looking at some kind of tank I can use, and there's so many to pick from.
But I understand your love for plastic, in which case I would use the germans since they seem to have many plastic kits.

Yeah i do love the uniforms too thats why im also kind attracted too the french And if already got the "French and the allies" book which i guess helps, but the problem i have is that they have only got a few models and kinda shitty tanks wich dosent help when im playing against late game armies..
Atleast thats what i think maybe an BA player could tell me more.

>i have is that they have only got a few models and kinda shitty tanks wich dosent help when im playing against late game armies..
Why would you play with Early French against late German?

Well playing against germans in general they dont really have much of an early war option, but what the fuck do i know dident even play it yet

Being a new player myself I can't really tell how hard it is going early Vs. late. But since France gets a free artillery piece I'm going to add a medium anti tank gun in almost every game. It kills almost every tank worth killing.

Livestock are always appropriate, but... just buy a mat, chop it up, and stick something thick underneath it for height if you want a quick solution? If it's up against walls or fences or hedges it should look fine, and if you cut it in smaller pieces, you can remove the underlayer to lower a section to place troops in without the full "standing on top of the wheat" effect.

From last thread a chap posted his Grandfather's medals. In a similar vein here are my Grandfather's.

193-45 Star
Atlantic Star
Normandy Medal
Defence Medal
War Medal

Also more African Imagi-Nations. West Mbrosia's Revolutionary Guard.

WiP Peoples Miltia. I've got very little enthusiasm to paint the Miltia. I like uniforms too much.