/wip/ - Work In Progress General

Getting things finished edition - Choose something and try to finish it before the thread dies

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Something to have on in the background while you work
> youtube.com/watch?v=d4QYhPWCC4M&list=PLE4-InHSpklCGGYMmxosxBqzkb5LLgIUQ

Other urls found in this thread:

dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/blog/612777.page
warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Scourged,_The
warhammeronline.wikia.com/wiki/Aekold_Helbrass
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Colourblind DE user here, doing armies on parade on Oct 15th. I've not got much painting left to do but I need to build a board now. Whats the best way to seal blue insulation foam so I can paint it without it all melting or soaking in?

>Previous Thread:
(Last Thread)
(... and before that)
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Still waiting to hear from Auric Patricians Lad...

>Whats the best way to seal blue insulation foam so I can paint it without it all melting or soaking in?

Hmmm... maybe I can't advise you on the *best* way, but I was able to basecoat mine with a bottle of cheap craft store acrylic. That stuff is so thick, it seemed to form a pretty good seal and at the same time was completely harmless. It also hid the fact that my insulation foam was pink rather than blue!

I know I asked in the last thread, but here I go again (on my own....). Does anyone with experience know if the Iron hands space marine simply has had its legs swapped for a pair of Cataphractii legs? Or if this conversion demands tons upon tons of green stuff and plastic card to work?

Do you guys fully assemble your models before you paint them? I'm considering assembling the top half and bottom half of mine so I can paint inside their robes, painting them separately, and attaching them. Seems to be the easiest way to do it.
The torso and shoulder pads both look significantly larger, so I imagine that's not all the work that they did. Arm looks bulkier too.

The bolter is covering up the part of his chest which would tell me the answer to that. However, a quick google found this:

dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/blog/612777.page

Which shows how he made it if you scroll down a little. Grey Knight Terminator bits, by the look of it.

A test scheme for my upcoming Stealer Cult, what do you think? (Now a reasonable size)

Thanks, again it seems my true-scale sm will have to be "inquisitor 28mm" only, as no one in their right mind will sit down and do that kind of work for an entire 30k force (which btw, should have a ton of "regular" marines in it to stay true to the fluff.... ugh).

Looking real good. The red was a good color to go with, even though I love the purple classic (in that goofy "bad guy theme" color).

>Do you guys fully assemble your models before you paint them?

No.

As a general rule, for a model with a weapon held across its chest, you should leave the weapon off. For Space Marines, since many of the bitz are separate, it often makes good sense to leave off the shoulder pauldrons, backpack, and sometimes even the head as well. All of those parts can easily be painted to match the model they're meant to be attached to, and it reduces the possibility of a "goof" with the wrong colour.

What do you think of this Swarmlord? Do you think it needs anything?
I'm not too experienced yet.

I say it depends. There are times I have wanted a unit to be in table top standard, and knows that I can paint well enough to get the paint where I want it, ether way. And there are times I really want to spend time with a unit, and do what you do in your picture.

Take picture related for instance, this is a 6 minute gaunt. Based with dragon red from the armypainter, turquoise plates and grey fangs, dipped in a medium dip. I wanted this model to be finished, and I also know that the end result will look great on the table as a whole. Because these guys comes in packs of 30 by the unit, and this particular gaunt is just good enough painted to make the whole army look descent when they all keep the same standard. You can then put more powder on the characters and monsters if you like. But thats just an example of what I mean.

>As a general rule, for a model with a weapon held across its chest, you should leave the weapon off.
Unfortunately, that means I have to leave off both arms entirely. Shame. Looks like I'll be painting them in three parts in the future, then. Blue-tac investment time.

It's hard to judge the quality of the paintjob with the shade and wierd light in your photos. Take a look at the DIY lightbox in the OP and give it another go.

There is nothing more I fucking despise than people who refuse to properly remove sprue or mold lines from their models. Christ you fucking sacks of shit are embarassing cretins.

You make your conversions that you know what, could be pretty ok. But you are too fucking lazy to even scrape for 1 minute the outline of the pieces to remove mm tall line ruining the detail on your model and making it look like total cunt fucking piss shit.

What is even worse is when those fucks are actually good painters and put a lot of money into buying the model and then time and money painting the model to a good standard, something that should be lovely to look at. But because they cut corners and are shit house cunt fucks their entire model, time, money and effort is totally ruined by the fucking mold lines.

Good God! Do you not have spacial fucking awareness? Would you eat a girls cunt who had warts on her twat? Or would you eat the clean one?

Fuck....

...

K

>Would you eat a girls cunt who had warts on her twat?

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm fuck got me soooo horny I'm biting my hand now cummy fuck cummy fucks cummy fucks

I have also never understood this. I find removing mold lines extremely satisfying.

What's a good cheap but reliable alternative to the hilariously expensive scraping tool from gw?

using your hobby knife and carefully scrape the side on it against it, until it's gone. It's what I've always done.

you feeling okay user?

I've tried doing that with an exacto. I'm guessing that's too thin though, worried about the blade snapping.

been sticking knives onto guns for bayonets, made 1 guy a GoW lancer with an extra chainsword. came out kinda shitty but I want to get the cuts more precise in the future and make a bunch.

you don't need to use any real force, just drag it slowly away from you, be careful, and repeat a few times, if you need it. Use the mantra of "doing it several times is better than doing it once" with that.

I can guarantee you most moldlines are the result of poor eyesight and lighting rather than laziness

>What's a good cheap but reliable alternative to the hilariously expensive scraping tool from gw?

Other companies call them "seam removers". If it weren't for the outrageous shipping, I'd recommend the one that Micro Mark sells that is on sale for $10.00 this week.

So how the hell do I keep an Army Painter brush pointy? I've been lightly using it at best, cleaning it, shaping it as needed... and it's lost all ability to keep a point within 7 minis of starting to use it.

Alternately: Can someone recommend a good equivalent to the Precise Detail brush for under $10?

I like it.
Personally I'm a fan of orange/white as well. Reminds me of old school space suits.

I usually get most of mine, but sometimes I just overlook a moldline that isn't very apparent until I paint over it.

I find AP brushes annoying to use. I've bought whole set (including kolinsky sable one), and after a few minis painted, I came back to GW brushes - ones I've bought when I was taking up my hobby. Old large and detail brushes are my workhorses that do 95% of paintjob.

Finally got all my stuff out and together to see what still needs finishing in my backlog. It's nowhere near as bad as I thought!
3 skyweavers
1 harlequin
Fix shadowseer's leg
1 raider

Pretty happy with that!

So here are some photos of what I've done of this army so far - does it all match and look cohesive?

The harlequins, and my archon to the left. Venom at the back.

Think I need to move the lamp further away next time

And the raider with warriors and that archon. Since this picture I've darkened the metals on it down considerably, but the photo I just tried to take came out super shit

Toy store turned GW vendor user back again. Did I do okay Veeky Forums? I think they're pretty good for my first time.

Those are very good for your first time.

You painted inside the lines, you thinned your paints, you have good color placement, and you have finished bases. Cleanup those couple brown spillovers on the bottom of the feet and you get an A+

>I think they're pretty good for my first time.
Yeah, you did.

On a personal note I'd like to post a minor criticism: Don't use the texture paint or sand or whatever basing material you are using on the rims of the base. I always ends up looking messy to me.
Bases look much better with a cleanly painted rim in a complementary or contrasting color, whichever you prefer.

Gotta say in general you seem to have handled the painting really well.
Metal paints and the white came out nice and clean.
Blue looks a bit uneven, try doing a second coat on your next minis to fix that.

Next thing I'd try to do would maybe be painting the eyes. It's a nice finishing touch.
If you feel comfortable with your brush control you can also try line highlights on the armor too.

Anyway, these look better than my first ones looked, so good for you!

My only big complaint. Pic related.

Thanks!
Okay! I noticed a lot of models I found pics of had untextured rims, but I messed up the base (forgot to prime before painting) and couldn't get a neat edge. Will do that next time. Luckily I still have a whole bin of older models for a promo event to mess around with!
I don't follow?

I need a "blessing" of Tzeentch to fluff up my traitor Imperial Guard army with.

I offer you an example in the form of these guys:
warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Scourged,_The

tl;dr, Tzeentch cursed them to hear every time a human lies, which drove them nuts and into the service of Chaos.

Something like that for my doods would be cool. It was previously suggested to me that when they look at someone they see a face that reflects the person's actual personality, which is a neat idea but I'm not really looking to make an army of Shallow Hals.

Any other suggestions?

Drill barrels and other items like pipes to give them depth.

Ah, I looked into it and I dont think our drill at the store has a small enough bit. Will look, thanks.

They can hear emotions, so they constantly take uppers and anti-depressants to listen to the music?
They can see the points where the materium grows thin and tendrils of chaos move around with their mutated eyes?
Just random bullshit, think of a good blessing, then add an ironic twist and a splash of grimdark. Like being able to read any language but unable to speak or write.

>tl;dr, Tzeentch cursed them to hear every time a human lies, which drove them nuts and into the service of Chaos.
>Something like that for my doods
They can never speak truth.
They all lie. Or do they?

See

don't you go referring me to so some sperg losing his shit. my models in pic related aren't even done.

what are the advantages of such a tool over the good old x-acto knife?

Don't mind me, I'm just twiddling my thumbs until those Gene-stealing fuckwits get here in a week or so, what with their delicious autoguns and beautiful pump-action shotguns.

Until then, I'll do as much as I can to start my Renegades and Heretics ideas. This is a flagellant sawed in half with a Cadian body. It looks to me like a cultist hastily slapped a flak vest on over his robes, which is what I'm going for. Not sure what to do with heads. Gasmasks would be great, but GW don't sell some generic civvy-issue ones. I heard they're doing a Genestealer conversion kit that'll hopefully have some in, though.

Also, should I keep the barefoot look or attempt at modelling some shoes?

Going to be a bitch to model them kneeling when it comes to the heavy stubber teams.

WIP on the Kingdom Death Flower Knights. Going for Autumnal colours. The robe is done for now, and right now working on the nmm armour. Shades are done, next will be highlights before going back in to add some more shades to build the contrast and depth of colour.

>mix paints
>paint test mini, looks good
>mix more paint to paint the rest
>unable to get the same color

Still relatively new to the hobby, but here's my Assassin. Probably my favourite model in 40k.

Criticism would be appreciated.

Objective marker.
Gonna scuff it up a bit more on the front probably, maybe add some cork rocks but I'd rather not put anything that would distract from the head

Not bad at all, a wash would look nice on this

Properly orient and resize your pictures before you post them.

Hey, look, it's this guy again.

Skitarii warlord. I apologize for the poor lighting, but unless you want an emergency flashlight shining on it, it's the best I've got. Coming around to the idea of making the rest of my Skitarii have Castellan Green robes. What's the best color to highlight that with?

I cleaned up the spillover of Moot Green on the rifle. I just didn't take another picture, it's gotten even darker.

straken green, like cadian armour

Thanks anons. I like the ideas, but just for fun let's branch out a little. We're not limited to "when this happens, this is what they perceive" type stuff. There's also this guy here:
warhammeronline.wikia.com/wiki/Aekold_Helbrass

Aekold Helbrass creates life wherever he goes. Flowers and grass spring at his feet, dead wood used in buildings sprout leaves, his wounds and anyone near him are healed perfectly. He goes around slaughtering the hell out of everything because he's so tired of it.

>what are the advantages of such a tool over the good old x-acto knife?

I'm glad you asked. This applies to the regular old seam scraper/remover as well as Citadel's overpriced fing (which I have).

1). First and foremost, the blade isn't sharp - not on the front side, nor on the back side. If you slip or drop it, you run no risk of getting sliced, stabbed, or impaled.
2). The tip is part of the body. Unlike an X-acto knife, the tip of the tool is substantially longer than just the length of a short blade. This allows you to work on tough sprue marks and metal models without worrying that your tool will snap off or come loose if you apply too much stress.
3). It's solidly built - i.e, much thicker. Following on from #2, above, the tips of these tools are far more substantial than a disposable X-acto blade, which is meant to be slender and sharp. You're going to have to work very hard (probably using it for things it was not meant for) to bend or break it.

All right, thanks. Unfortunately not something in my shelf, but next time I'm out at my LGS I'll pick a pot up.

Other acquisitions today: a pile of brushes and brush cleaner from Michaels'. We'll find out how they do tomorrow; longer than I'd like, but they should be fine.

>but GW don't sell some generic civvy-issue ones.
don't buy from GW. check out some of the third party bits.
gasmasks are something you can get from almost every single one of them.

Anyone know where I can print a stencil for digital camo?

Sound advice if you don't play in a GW store.

I play all the time in a GW store, the guy there doesn't give a fuck as long as the models are mostly GW. Sounds like you have a shitty guy.

Gonna paint some of my backlog Tau in more comfortable, easier, colors for kill team.
If I wanted to do a swamp/dark forest color scheme, what would you suggest? I was thinking olive armor washed blue with brown trousers.
What would I do for the bases though? I was thinking just very muddy since water effects would be impractical for a flat surface and I don't know how to do them in the first place.

Really? I've only ever really known this store. All four managers have always been extremely anti not-GW.

Just got started on this guy. Would it look better to paint the whole thing silver or should I do the arms and plates the standard necron green? Left the arms black till I decide what to do with them in the mean time.

Having worked in a GW during my undergrad days, GW is very strict on it, as there are mystery shoppers sent round and who will notice such things. Hence why staff are meant to stop such things. However, if it is bits, and the model is nearly all GW part but a head, I think they will never notice. Spotting stuff like that is hard given that people convert stuff all the time.

one store i go to in sydney is fine with non-gw bits or even proxies as long as it's not done to a silly extent. he said i could have headswaps as long as the majority of the model was GW, and that even proxy or standin models in small amounts. he said one time he drew the line was when one guy unpacked a bunch of just model railway trees and said they were wood elves

Fucking kek

>one guy unpacked a bunch of just model railway trees and said they were wood elves
So the wood elves took up residence in his favorite tree?

There's an image on how to properly take picture of your model. That would help us more easily identify any areas for improvement.

Why would 2 armies be fighting over a Knight Lancer's head?

That's where the blackbox/machine spirit or whatever else is located.
Or maybe they need the spare parts.
Or it's a matter of principle for the Ad Mech to retrieve it.

Anyway, it looks pretty cool.

the dude saw something important before dying and the armies want to use their various mechanicum/magic powers to extract the memories from his brain

There you go.

Don't let the orks loot your buddy's head

The straps could use some cleaning up, along with his rifle. Also on a model that is black like that, highlights go a long way.

I was sort of going for a rough look on the red of the rifle if that's what you're referring to. I noticed the straps croping the picture but thanks for mentioning it.

What colours highlight black well? I wanted to but I couldn't think of anything, dark greys maybe?

I used skavaanblight dinge when highlighting my black legion. Greys and dark greys, or even dark blues, can look good on black.

that head's seen sum shit mang

Go the whole nine. You can avoid certain areas with flocking, throw down little ferns or GW-approved-tufts, and then paint around whatever hasn't stuck with a shiny coat of blue/brown.

It could look amazing. Even moreso if you lop off the bottoms of their legs and greenstuff around the mud.

>here's an image on how to properly take picture of your model.

Yep. Every thread!

I'm looking to paint a Tau kill team that mainly operates in the dark, anyone got any ideas for a night camo?

You're going to want a dark blue. That's what all the L337 0P3R470R5 use nowadays.

wat

Heyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy, dubs determines what color scheme I use on tyranid-dude.

I intend for other people to see these minis so any suggestions for dicks or swastikas and the like will be ignored.

Do Ultranids. Please.

NO! Was but a post too late.

Hmmm... Since that Guardsman is a SW imitator, make the Nid a DW imitator!

Aw man, I remember those threads. Good times.

DA, sorry. I'm tired. Eh, I didn't get dubs anyways.

>Now watch me get dubs like an idiot.

Be a true dinosaur. Green and brown shades, bloodstained teeth.

is there anywhere I can get gw stuff for cheaper

The War Store, I think it's called, does a flat 20% discount. GW only, not Forge World. Several third-party retailers do.

Screw it, these are both good ideas. Better than what I had in mind. Rolling in support of either, 1 for Ultranids, 2 for Dank Angelnids.

Next, do a Space Wolf in Cadian colors!

Screw it, I can't do anything right today. I keep forgetting my pics, and I keep forgetting my basic Veeky Forums functions.

Rolled 1 (1d2)

>Gets double dubs
Wow. Okay.

Yeah.

Wow.

Icy Armor with Light Purple flesh, Yellow eyes and shit