WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

>do I just need to suck it up and use the public workshop?
Is there a problem with that?
I mean you can always put your stuff in front of a window and turn a ventilator so that it sucks the overspray and expels it out the window.
Like a lowtech ghetto spray booth.

>Is there a problem with that?
Not particularly, but I'd prefer to be able to paint and work in privacy, rather than having to do so around people with their own projects to work on. Additionally, the workshop actually only has one ventilator booth of its own, and it's a huge room more meant for mass spray painting than airbrushing; I don't think it's possible to get an hour or two to myself without forcing others to wait.

>I mean you can always put your stuff in front of a window and turn a ventilator so that it sucks the overspray and expels it out the window.
Unfortunately, my windows do not open. They're less "windows", and more "slabs of glass mounted in the wall".

There are ventilation ducts I could probably use, but I am extremely reluctant to do so unless I am sure that I could eliminate nearly all of the smell and particulate matter.

Done. Thinking of splashing some Blood for the Blood God on the front for a splatter effect.

Looks good, user. I'd leave it as-is.

>There are ventilation ducts I could probably use, but I am extremely reluctant to do so unless I am sure that I could eliminate nearly all of the smell and particulate matter.
I sprayed a few times - with spraycans though - indoors, with papers layed out around the container I sprayed on and a big box behind to catch all the overspray.
If you put the box afterwards outside the smell is not that bad.

Not sure what you mean with that anyway if you are using an airbrush. Aren't most paints used for models acrylics anyway or alcohol based?

Anyway I think with an airbrush you won't have nearly has much problems with overspray and such. You'll be fine unless you are using some super special paint and thinner that melts your lungs.

>Anyway I think with an airbrush you won't have nearly has much problems with overspray and such. You'll be fine unless you are using some super special paint and thinner that melts your lungs.
It's not so much that -I'm- concerned about the smell, I'm concerned that my roommates will be concerned about the smell.

Eh, whatever; I'll give it a go once and see if they're okay with it; if not, I'll just have to use the public workshop.

Thanks for the advice, user.

GW paints and other acrylics are nearly odorless unless you use smelly thinners or are literally huffing the spray. It's just aerosolized acrylics: that's just water and paint pigment.

Oh bother....

At least pelase tell me the flat surfaces are easier to paint.

Please excuse the shitty pictures.

My Sisters of Battle force is slowly growing. Pewter miniatures cast in 1996 have been retrieved from the depths of forgotten rural game stores...

...supplemented by things from other ranges and other catalogs, drawn into the Imperial fold...

...and new resin miniatures of astonishing quality... and fragility.

So I am thinking of starting to varnish my miniatures. I heard Citadels Purity Seal is really good, can anyone attest to this?

And a big fuck-off Penitent Knight as well.

Well, I got most of the big basecoatings done on my knight. Still a lot to go.

Some more Deathwatch doods- Raven Guard sniper and Black Templar assault marine.

The edging on that sword is a little rough (it gets wider towards the tip), but damn, that's some nice red and metallic work. Airbrush?

Also, you should drill out the barrel on your stubber.

no airbrush, just a couple layers of each color.

I was too lazy to come up with my own design so I stole a board setup from some guy in /wip/

My plan is to have dried mud flows and high water marks on the building, like it was flooded then dried up again. A vindicare will be in the second story of the building with his rifle out the window pointed at my warboss, who will be in a battlewagon in a motorcade rolling down the road. Ill have a print out card with something along the lines of "Assassination attempt on Warboss MegaKrump in the ruins of Arcturis, one of the cities flooded by the mega tsunami created when MegaKrump's Space Hulk flagship the 'Ardfist plunged into the ocean on Tellaris V."

Production lines make me sad.

Takes a while for progress to show and starts to demotivate

This is a good idea.

Even if it's less efficient, this is why I do all mine individually. I'm not in a rush, and I enjoy painting. Might as well do it the way I can feel like I've accomplished something.

Plus, I have to do each one in one sitting. Works better this way.

Sharpen your sword user.
Use a file or even a bit of brick then sand paper instead of a knife so you can control it.

1/3
painting up some FBI type SWAT to be an inquisitorial kill-team

guy running with invisible shotgun and heavy armor

scale with an old metal kasrkin

I might have to start, it's sad to see an evenings work look like i've barely done anything... My painting style doesn't help.

I did this guy in about 2 hours and it's much more satisfying seeing a finished mini than over a dozen of barely started ones... That still took hours! (sorry for repost)

Finished leather set, dunno what I'll do next. Suggestions? Thoughts are;

-Screaming Fur set
-Whtie Lion Set
-Black knight, both squires, percival
-White speaker, white speaker pinup, white speaker christmas

There seems to be some constructional oversight on the weighted axe lady in that her axe is going below the base.

I do appreciate the surface wear on the fronts of the shields and the belts for them.

It wasn't an oversight but thank you anyway. The angle makes it look farther than it actually is. Originally it "was" meant to be higher, yes, but I didn't have anything on hand to hold it in place as it cured, and as a result it slumped :( It's just barely off table, but something I'll be preventing in the future :)

And thanks for the complement on the wear! That's exactly what i was going for and was a little worried I'd gone a little tooooooooo sloppy/rough with the paint.

That looks awesome

Sorry for the repost but in the last thread I got asked about the nmm on the Flower Knight. For the steel I have just used the greys in the Scale 75 Shades of Doom set. For the bronze I have used a base of Vallejo model air mahogany, then Vallejo game colour leather brown, followed by mixing in highlights of Scale 75 Mars Orange, and Lilith Yellow, with the mahogany used as a wash to mute it all so it is less golden looking.

I usually do 2 or 3 at a time - that way, you can still make some progress without it getting too tedious. But I might have to go down to one at a time too, to make it fun, even though I have a zillion guys waiting.

I tried that. I just couldn't achieve a balanced edge on both sides of the blade. I know, I suck.

Who is more TACTICOOL, deathwatch or tau?

So I might be purchasing two Dreadnoughts to make a diorama at some point in the far future when money allows. The plan is to get an Ironclad and convert it into a Chaos Dreadnought (Fuck the Helbrute, too many fleshy bits) and a Venerable Dreadnought to be the loyalist one, and then have them tearing each other apart.

How does this look for an Iron Warriors Dreadnought? I think they're the warband I'd end up doing.

This is probably the first thing I've painted in over 15 years.

1992 mini, so full of delicious lead poisoning.

Only flats so far. Gonna do highlights next, and and then most likely fuck everything up when I try shading.

Since I'm a shit photographer, I've zoomed in too close and made him look more lumpy and uneven than he really appears to the naked eye.

I wish my gradients were that smooth.

Are there any files I should particularly look for or will any needle file do for removing mould lines and such?

Strip him and start again.

I'm serious. If you tried to just paint over a paint job from 15 years ago, it's gonna look like ass.

>but I didn't

The fact the paint looks thick, is filling in details, and has a grainy texture to it says otherwise.

>But all I did was spray/base coat it.

Then you fucked up and need to fix it.

You misread. It's the first thing he's painted in 15 years, not something he painted 15 years ago that he repainted.

still far from done but taking a lot of time with this one. the paint went on a little thick on the silver part on his thigh. has anyone ever scraped paint off a mini before to fix this?

gonna go back on the mid tones on the cloak as well..

mmm.... exquisite. Keep us updated, please.

The picture is something that I've been working for many years now, adding pieces and painting details. Still a lot to do, though. BFG - Tyranid hiveship.

Shoot man, you don't even need to convert it into chaos-y stuff, Ironclad looks fine alone. You could say that it's heresy-era boxnoughts duking it out, or during the scouring, when chaos stuff wasn't as prominent.

Deathwatch.

This model has spent the last 15 years or so rolling around in my toolbox and getting completely fucked up. He hasn't been stripped, because he has never been painted.

The lumps and divots on the shoulder are mostly damage to the metal.

That said, I had coverage problems with the red, white, and the green base, and I really don't know why.

No such problems with the brown, silver or flesh, though.

I was going to mostly make it look more like the metal Chaos Dreadnought that's out of production now, add some various trims and probably replace the sarchophagus plate with an open one from the Venerable Dreadnought kit, but keep the segmented side plates.

I think it'd be cool, but damn dreadnoughts are fucking expensive. And I've got enough projects as it is, I guess...

wip shot of my rooster rider. Need to do his feet and do some lilly pads. Whatcha guys think

More work on this killer can o´ beans, lots to clean up and highlight etc. Anyone know where i could buy 60-70mm round lip bases? I searched high and low from various websites and i could only find up to 50mm and 80-120mm.

Been working on my layering skills and I'm pretty proud of my blightkings. Do you guys approve?

Looks really good, looking forward to washes and highlights.

Fucking jealous at how crisp you did the pupils

Aren't hive ships entirely biological though?

Very vibrant, very clean though your brightest highlights could do with a better transition in some spots. Take the underlying color, mix it with a lot of glaze medium or varnish and carefully make the transition a little better.

You should also take a look at vallejo rust washes if you want to make it dirtier at some point.

user I think you should do some nasty yellow puss filled boils/zits. Other than that I think they are super fabulous!

>how crisp you did the pupils

Those were a few tense moments with a magnifying glass.

I'm not expecting the final result to look great, but since this is just an old mini and primary reason for doing this is mostly curiosity over whether shakey-handed self can still do it, I'll be content if it merely looks average. I'm not expecting a display piece.

Carefully apply a light brown wash around the eyelids to give the eyesocket more depth. Old minis best minis.

The only thing I would recommend is to do the grey highlight near the red cross on the shoulder pad just like how it is on the front chest. Otherwise it looks weirdly flat.

Other than that it looks great.

oooh, sexy mask

Roughly a week ago, I asked if non-physical WIP projects are welcome in this thread, (namely a map making software I started work on 3-4 weeks ago).

Back then, someone told me anything's fine as long as it's Veeky Forums related (which it being a battlemat map maker, I suppose it is), so I just hope I'm not intruding on hallowed grounds with my decisively non-artistic project. Still, since it was someone on Veeky Forums who asked for such a program to be made in the first place, I thought it'd be only right to post it.

I could go on for like 2-3 paragraphs more, but I think it's probably best if I just leave it here.
Got two versions for each platform, in case someone wants a smaller download Google can actually scan, see the Download Help for more.
drive.google.com/open?id=0B-wYViIb_LYncXNRVVNCN000bjg

tl,dr; of the Readme inside:
>The thing (so far) is basically pyromancers.com/dungeon-painter-online/ without the texture library
>Pretty much any .png files you have can be used as objects/walls/tiles/etc as long as you put it in the approriate places
>Images of any desired resolution can be exported
>Made with Unity because I'm a heretic with no time to code a brand new engine, and it's pretty good for small projects like this

If I'm an idiot for posting this here, do tell and I'll make a thread instead.

I guess it's technically fine, but it might be better to start a thread of your own, since they're still pretty different topics.

Yeah miight do it even if no one outright tells me it doesn't belong, though I'm not sure how long I'll be available just now, and if I properly start a thread, I'd feel obligated to stay and answer any questions. (Which I'll still do, if there are any, but with a whole thread, comes great responsibility.)

>▶
any ideas on spot removing thick layers of paint ?

Liking it so far. Malifaux model? The water effects are great.
There's a moldline running down his torso tho.

Acetone on a cotton swab might work, at least on metal models. Or denatured alcohol for plastic (or either)

A note about boils: they aren't just yellow bubbles, instead real boils have a dark black core at the center and then a sickly yellow halo around that core.

That said, if you do it too well it actually looks genuinely revolting, so perhaps you might want something a little more fantastical and unreal.

You are gonna be fine if you don't submerge the plastic or let acetone pool on it.
It will evaporate before it can melt the plastic if you just use a cotton swap.

Really cool, these guys have a lot more character than a lot of generic modern military type dudes.

Just need to work on the green stuff, and then finally paint it.

has anyone here checked if the new Genestealer Neophytes sprues are compatible with with the cadians. cause i kinda like some of the stuff they have but by the looks they would work better with space marine bitz.

picture only somewhat related old cadian squad of mine i repainted

Oh GW, why must you rip off the vidya? First Tyranids, now this

There will be a conversion kit put up for pre-order on Saturday which is seemingly specifically designed for Cadians. At least all the preview images, and the modelling guide is for them.

Octobers White Dwarf has pictures of converted shock troops, and a Leman Russ tank with a Neophyte Tank Commander and a bunch of cultish symbols plastered on the thing.

Is there any reason I shouldn't thin my paints with airbrush thinner instead of water?

none, but water is quite a bit cheaper.

Well, yeah. But I've been doing it for a while, and it just feels like it paints way smoother. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't fucking up my paintjobs for later.

>Get an empty Tide bottle (The big one with a spigot on it)
>wash it out
>pour in a bottle of isopropyl alchohol
>Full the rest with water
>Shake

There, a gallon of airbrush thinner with a convenient dispenser

That's what thinner is for...

...What percentage alcohol? I might just mix up a half ounce bottle.

Doesn't matter. Higher percent just means add more water. 70 is cheaper than 90+.

Although I wouldn't use a detergent bottle that's just ghetto and nasty. Even though a drop of soap can be a great thinner ingredient. I recommend a clean empty ketchup bottle that they sell in stores for like $1. Fill that with water and thinner and you can drip or dribble it out the end or squeeze long squirts out.

I have an empty dropper.

Deathwatch squad WIP

I have heaps of work left to do on the Black Templar, and all of them need to be armour highlighted.

Other than that, what do you guys think?

Working on some ruins to decorate my Stormraven bases. I plan to make some crumbled pillars as well.

The skin tone us amazing. Can you post a step by step? Thanks

Are you using a green bulb?

Those look crackin'.

Also nice to see I'm not the only cheapass using Army Painter.

Army Painter isn't even cheap, man. Shit costs almost as much as Vallejo and the cans cost as much as GW.

And a quick variant to represent Big E.

Well, I guess everything is cheapass when you compare it to the scumfuck GW prices.

You sure GoW isn´t a rip off tough?

Gr8 b8 m8 I r8 8/8.

Dubs decides the colour scheme for the Skitarii Start Collecting box I just picked up. I want to do something different from the standard red, was leaning towards blue or yellow.