Work in Progress Thread WIP

Thinking about skin tones to get started on the faces... Does anyone have a good progression for blond hair?

BTW the base of the mumak... is simply gorgeous...

I just picked up a Kill-Team box. I'm doing my Marines up as my custom chapter (brass and Castellan green), but I'm tossing up a couple options for Tau.

>Khorne Red/Evil Suns Scarlet?
>Castellan Green/Zandri Dust?
>Stegadon Scale "Green" (it's fucking blue)/Fenrisian Grey?
>Attempt to salvage my various pots of white and put them to use, with accenting from one of the above?

I'd like to work with the paints I already have, ideally.

My first tau army was white armour with red jumpsuits.

I ended up switching to silver armour and blue jumpsuits when I realized I had made a squad of rebel starfighter pilots.

>tfw invariably fuck up transfers

Why is something that, at first glance, would seem to be the easiest aspect of modelling so fucking hard?

I just recently printed my own, had to pick up special paper and everything.

You better believe I spent two hours trying to test it out on regular paper to make sure I didn't end up making them useless blue blocks.

Thankfully they turned out pretty good, except I will have to underpaint the model where I apply them since the printer doesn't print white.

How much do you guys thin your paints to? do you add water to the pot, or dab the brush in water before dipping your brush on a palette?

I honestly tried thinning paints..but it just runs everywhere on the model, and it's hard as fuck to control where it goes.. I don't get the whole "MUST THIN YOUR PAINTS" meme.

Tried to make the building look like it had been flooded

What's the material intended to be? Concrete stains brown from flooding. (Source: Frequent flooding in wooded valleys.) Metal... would rust or oxidize, so *also* brown for most silvery metals.

Dunno what advice to give you for it. It looks like you did your flooding effect before you actually painted the walls that're being flooded, so the coloration may be completely wrong or completely right.

its grey concrete. The picture is kind of washed out but theres some drybrushing and details picked out on the building

just add some water to your pot, about 25% of the pain should be water.

Just to make sure I'm going to do this right.
First remove model from sprue, then remove flash, clean any residue off, then spray with primer once that dries you do the base coat then the details and then use a wash and finally dry brush the highlights?
I'm getting my first set tomorrow and don't want to screw up. I'm getting some cheapo Walmart paint and some reaper minis

Question, can you just spray primer over top of base paint? Or is it mandatory you strip the paint first?

Which tools should I get to use Green Stuff properly.

Went ahead and illustrated the three schemes mentioned. Opinions? I'm leaning toward the red scheme seeing it all together.

Not sure if it would be better here or in the Age of Sigmar ib4 Age of Smegmar general, but I'm looking at the Celestial Vindicators scheme for Stormcast Eternals, and the book has them washed with Coelia Greenshade, while the WHTV video uses Nuln Oil. If anyone's done up some CVs, which did you end up using, and how did it turn out? Also, did you bother with the blue undercoat before the Sotek Green, or was it just right over whatever primer you had?

There is white backed transfer paper, could have saved you some time.

You can, but the primer will bond better to the naked material than the paint does. Also, you may end up obscuring details.

I reprimed my figure to black (which I already had primed to a flesh tone cause I had another colour scheme in mind for them) and it actually came out better. I think the new layer filled in any imperfections but didn't lose any of the detail to the model.

As well I just finished the jump pack for my Astorath, may as well get some feedback.

How do you guys prime your Marines? I popped the guns off their sprues already, but they're not attached; backpacks and pauldrons are still on the sprue. Legs, arms, and heads are already attached, and they're based (I really don't like working with the whole "drill a hole and use a paperclip" deal, not to mention I don't have a pin vise drill). What's the best way to go about priming these with spray? Odds are I'll blow the guns all over the place with the spray can if they're loose, and I don't need nearly all of the sprue primed right now (plus it'll be unprimed in the areas I have to cut the sprues off/smooth it down).

I'm quite satisfied how he turned out. Especially with shoulderpads and choppa.

Clay sculpting tools. The metal ones work fine but the silicon tipped ones are even better. Always keep your tools and the green stuff itself wet.

If only you put some depth into it instead of using a crap dry brush technique where you have missed whole hunks. The same with the mumakil. Obviously sped through with no real care, it should be a crime in a mini that detailed, and definatly a faux pas to keep posting it on Wip as if you have finished and no ones told you what a shitty job you have done

Poster TAC and toothpicks or just poster tacddepending on the part

only 199 more to go

...

So I nicked my car with a rock.

Will painting ardcoat over the metal stop it rusting?

You post the fucking link farm.

I wish.

Basilisks are the same though.
Inb4 plastic medusas.

1000p Death Guard guy here. Okay, the base layers are finally done. Looks pretty shitty at this point, but the magic is about to happen.

Vermin Brown, a careful wash with Gryphonne Sepia or Reikland Flesh. Then broad highlights with Vermin Brown again and final thin highlights with Bleached Bone.

Well, you made some fast progress there. Looks pretty good!

Replied to you in the other thread, but i don't know which one will pull through, so: Blue because it's easier to make blue look good.

Wings and parchment came out really nice, but the gold looks a bit flat and could use a wash and maybe some highlights.

Great work, as usual.

Looks fuckin RAD user. pops.

Like, 90% finished.

Another angle

AMR-user here, the original version built off a Reaper Autocannon looked awesome but was far too big for even a Marine to reasonably carry with their stumpy range of arm poses, so I got hacking with my razor saw and substituted a Heavy Bolter reciever. It's still huge but more reasonable.

Design-wise, it's a heavy AMR and thus has no foregrip like you'd expect on a conventional sniper rifle because even a Marine can't properly shoulder this rifle and it's intended to be fired from the bipod at all times. Being a Chaos Marine he doesn't give much of a fuck about procedure and is inappropriately holding the weapon half-shouldered by the barrel instead of the dedicated carry handle because it's quicker to deploy this way. That's my logic to get around modelling limitations. Thoughts?

Mh, i'm split on this one. For one the conversion is top notch and the gun looks great. For the other, it's just a *tad* too massive and big for the marine. Reminds me of certain anime where the protagonist slings around weapons that are big enough to topple buildings. If that's what you like, go for it.

It's well done, that's for sure. But it just looks too comical, even for 40k. Not to mention you could probably never bring that anywhere to play the game with it. But if you just want to keep it around at home, I say keep going for it. It looks nice, just not something I'd do personally.

Yes, 4 years ago they put 3 in a box for £50

Only thing I find a tad bad is teh awefulyl small ammobelt..

I agree, and I'd LOVE to be able to shrink it by like 10-15%, more than anything so I can get the marine to hold it by something more sensible than the barrel. The original was beyond silly though. That said, you look at shit like pic related and the PTRD-41, and consider this is supposed to be an Autocannon, the main gun on a Predator, and maybe it's better it's a little huge.

>Not to mention you could probably never bring that anywhere to play the game with it.
It's an Autocannon. Chaos gets -some- nice toys.

Agreed, the belt feed fits the Chaos aesthetic but I'm considering scratchbuilding a fat fuck BAR magazine.

I'm in a bit of a pickle and hope that you guys can help.

I tried posing one of my figures with its arm raised and intended to let the gluevdry over night but the arm apparently somehow lost hold and slipped out of place and is now glued on extremely awkwardly.

Is there a save way to dissolve that glue without damaging the model? The figure isn't painted yet, so no worries about paint. It's a regular SM Captain made of plastic and I'm using Revell glue.

Holy shit, this is a thing of beauty.

Not the guy you are replying to but you are exactly what puts people off posting in wip.

>definatly a faux pas to keep posting it on Wip

Yea holy shit, its definitely a retarded move to post your work in progress models in the work in progress thread, what a fucking moron, i wonder where he got such a spastic idea from.

Take some paint from the pot with your brush and put it on your palette.

Then, get some water on your brush, and mix that in with the paint on the palette.
It should be the consistency of milk. If it is to runny, then it is to thin.

Don't put water in the actual pot, you need to know what your doing to get the mix right if you are doing it like that.

You missed the point, the continuing on, ignoring what people have already suggested he do to clean it up is the annoying thing. Yes, that's it, ask what people think, receive suggestions, then ignore them! That's the shittiest type of person I can think of!

>puts people off posting in wip

I'm not that guy either, but i'm perfectly okay with seeing less paint gore in this thread. And i really don't care if we have to get rid of a few scrubs to archieve that. This isn't a hugbox. If they want people to lie to their face, then they can fuck off to reddit for all i care.

you can criticize a work without doing it in such a way that makes it look like your primary goal is to hurt the guys feelings. instead of just telling the guy you didnt like his paintjob, tell him how you think he could have done it better.
i'd rather see a flow of pictures from new painters finding their feet than a bunch of posts of people tearing it apart and one guy posting some golden demon models.

Thanks for the back up, I wasn't however saying bad stuff shouldn't be posted, I was more saying if you post something your next post should show improvement, not just another post of it saying "finished"

That's the point, , he was told on the previous thread, but instead of listening to people he has just carried on unhindered. If your not gonna listen, don't post!

oh, i didnt know it was a continuation of something, i was commenting on just the general policy of the threads.

Which I whole heartedly agree with, it's good to have a place where you can receive true Crtique so you can improve

If it melts plastic together there's a chance a bit of force can remove it still, you'll get a lot of strings and have to clean up the torso once it's dried but I've salvaged late night bad-ideas the next morning this way.

If it just sticks the pieces together with a glue layer in between you can try jimmying it with your hobby knife and slicing though.

If worst comes to worst you'll have to sacrifice the whole arm to the ravenous clipper god.

It's been Online Exclusive for a long time. Don't quote me on this but since it's an old-ass kit it might get updated along the lines of the Hydra/Wyvern dual kits and include parts for a Medusa.
I might be just be wishlisting but this old piece of shit doesn't even have crew anymore in the kit since GW decided to cut back on metals.
For my part, I'm waiting a while before I get any.

I've just about finished this guy, Just have some cleaning up to do, and the base of course.

lel
Don't do this or you'll come running back wondering why your paints are fucked. Use a wet palette (google it, it's not difficult to make), get your paint on that and thin with water to find the sweet spot where it both covers and flows well.

No one gives a fuck about precisely which colours you use to achieve a scheme. If it looks good to you, run with it. Try out a bunch of variants and see how they look IRL.

I'm into this one late, but what technique did you use on the fabric? It almost looks like blending achieved by airbrush.

For the benefit of the user who asked in the previous thread regarding the sword:

The sword I got I commissioned from Cosplay-Shops for entirely too much money because I had no other options at the time. Its 4 1/2 feet long and mostly fiberglass. Its pretty cool overall, but while it looks detailed from afar the closer I get to it the less happy I am with the detailing on the guard, since the fact that it is all done in plastic tubing makes it look too much like an obvious prop for my tastes. That's the part that I am hoping to fix by filling in some gaps for more solid shapes and variety instead of squiggly tubes.

If you really want an Artorias sword, try Etsy. There is a guy making Artorias's sword on there for less than half what I paid for mine out of wood and 6 feet long. I probably would have bought from him if it wasn't for the fact that he didn't start selling until over a month after I placed my commission with CS. Probably a better deal, though so far all he has is work in progress photos.

Sorry for the interruption, everyone else. I just felt I owed him that information.

Yup. It is. The final highlights were by hand. Other than the base colour of Vallejo Model Air Mahogany, the colours used were from the Scale 75 Fantasy&Game red/orange/yellow set.

I really want my soldiers to have a golden skintone.

What colours should I use?

Swords aren't cheap. $100 wall hangers literally fall apart when swung. Quality swords can be had for $250-500 but they will be plain and tend to be arming or long swords. A good sword is minimum $850 or $1000 USD with the ones you would trust your life with are $1250 to $1500. And these are for 4 foot long swords.

The large Japanese style weapons and giant zweihanders don't necessarily cost more due to size, but you will have to pay the same premium price for reduction in weight. A $300 great sword weighs 15 pounds and is unusable in actual combat. The same sword made by a real swordsmith costs $750 and weighs 5 pounds.

So don't be surprised if a mere cosplay stick costs a lot, because the shape and fitment of the parts have to be made from hand, from scratch. That's what you're paying for, even if the fit and finish isn't too good. Remember this shit is smelted out of metal. Of course a wood carving will be cheaper and easier.

You could try blending flesh tones with gold pigment, or a very very thin coat/drybrush of gold so that the skin tone sort of 'shines' through.

Sorry, that's an expression I have in my language, maybe you don't have the same.

With golden skintone I mean that sahara/arabian/persian/indian skin, not actually gold.

I did this Salamander the other day.

Its just light brown basecoat, brown wash, light brown highlights.

Instead of washing with brown, wash with a yellow-brown wash like Seraphim Sepia, or AP Soft Tone.

Or experiment with yellow wash and brown wash mixed together.

Scale 75 do a very good skin tones paint set that I have used to get a range of skin colours for my Kingdom Death models.

been painting some zombicide black plague heroes

I didn't mean to disparage the work that went into it. But the guy from the previous thread seems interested in getting one, and it felt prudent to let him know that a cheaper option was available elsewhere than where I got it.

I'm not sure how to finish this guy, I want to make the fur lining his gear stand out more from the gear.

Any other tips would be appreciated too

Working on my snail, about 50% done and a lot to do with his base as well

Trying to think up a good base for HH Dark Angels. I think a red desert would provide the best contrast with the black armour but I would also like a forest base as if they were on Caliban or some similar world.

Anyone have any input? I prefer the idea of a forest base but I'm worried it will just make things black and brown and dark green.

Ah okay, I thought you meant tropes like Xerxes and pic related where they've literally been rubbed with oils and pigments to give their skin a golden sheen.

Hold the phone. Am I racist or does that Salamander head actually have negroid features like the broad nose and full lips?

>Am I racist
Recognizing somatic features is not racist.

Maybe add white tips?

Here's my progress so far on General Sorin (for Star Wars Imperial Assault). I have a little bit of touching up to do, then some details, then washes, then more details. I would like to do the eyes, but I really don't think I have a steady enough hand to try.

He should be done very soon, maybe even in time for our campaign session on Sunday. Then I'll be able to dive into another project. Thanks to a wonderful, warm, dry, still day on Monday, I have 20-some figures primed and ready to paint. I think I'll do Han Solo or the Royal Guard Champion next.

'stealer cultists with some new wrecker boys I made using Ork bits.

I happen to have a tyranid force ready to repaint which are going to use purple skin tone just like your genestealers. Any chance I can get a few tips on that?

yep it definitely has african features.

I did the opposite with it, and painted it albino, with pinprick black eyes, because it looks great for Space Sharks, almost like a literal shark man

1. genestealer purple basecoat.
2. purple wash.
3. 50/50 rakarth flesh, genestealer purple.
4. re-do some more wash into crevices.

this is whats on the abherrants, and patriarch

if you want a even whiter highlight, i'd recommend maybe 50/50 genestealer purple, and something off-white like pallid wych flesh.

nice, the girl looks positively wicked

What is GW's hardon with unhelmeted marines.

What the fuck

My 'racist' dilemma was whether I was seeing racial features that weren't actually there simply because of the colour its painted.

Is any one taking part in the PMP league's 6 month group build?

Clearly a nigger head, but that's also a near standard sculpt for old GW

How am I doing?

Back view

mumarkfag plz leave

Pretty good, don't forget to highlight.

...

you have ruined those models, the paint is way way too thick. Strip it, go watch a video on thinning paint.

Damn. I'm really tempted to get some cultists.
Lovely work, user.