WIP Painting - Converting - Sculpting General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

previous thread

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=G_imma6_XhA
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

>get GW's made to order Kasrkin
>the sergeant comes with at least two millimetres thick mould line on his head
Is this normal? Was this how metal really was? Luckily he was bald enough to green stuff hair.

speaking of the made to order stuff, now that its all sold out are they going to make other stuff? whats the deal?

So, these orders have started coming in I guess?

Apparently it wasn't made to order at all, they just ran a limited run of some old minis to see if they'd sell.

They came in on Thursday for me.
I've heard the plan is to do themes but the employee I was talking to said he had no idea what or when they were going to more, just that they were.

How to successfully magnetize burst cannons without tearing a hole through them? The mount point is right on a seam.

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To not make a Winter/Arctic base too overpowering, you can do what i always do;

I always start with a bit of texture paint or sand on the base to create a Ground floor, then basecoat with a turqoise, shade it, then drybrush my way up to White from turqoise. After that, i use pigment to create a frosty effect. After that, i use Snow effects in small piles.

This gives far more weight to the Snow that is, and makes it less overwhelming.

Damn, I haven't even got an email for my order yet. Small one too.

beautiful work, user

I really like it, but do you think, regarding the blood effect, that maybe it's a bit too smeared out? I think you should add one clear line of blood going down from his forehead, it gives it a source of origination and makes it a bit more understandable.
I am fucking DYING to go back home, buy some clear resin and some snow texture/powdered glass and wrap these bases up.

Guys, do you know a good tutorial for white fur? (like a cat for example?) I can't find shit on yt it seems. Pls hlp

Pic related is the original one.
I got him from ebay and still need to strip him, but seeing how he was painted, i doubt the previous owner would have bothered with mold lines too much.

Maybe they just used the old mold without repairing/replacing it and it simple wore out back then.

Themes make most sense actually. It also seems likely since they started with guard-only. (Why not start with Space Marines... who knows)

Fucking awesome. For how long are you painting miniatures?

I know what you mean. However, there are clear lines on the hidden side of the nose and face

Around 4 years. I don't play, though, so I'm used to painting few detailed miniatures.

I'm trying out something different for my Custodes.

Its only at the basecoat stage so far.

reminds of the sons of horus justaerin color scheme.

That mold line on his boot though. Fix it while you can.

You missed a few spots while applying the gold

So i just primed some maroons with army painters spray primer. But i missed some parts, behind guns and stuff.
Would there be some wired problem or interaction if i covered those parts up with some vallejo polyurethane primer black?

its the design of the boot, they've got a kind of ridge running down the middle.

Question from a newblood. If I'm painting stuff like Blood Angels and Bloodletters am I better
A.) Priming black and painting base coats
B.) Priming red for the base
C.) Priming black and then spraying red
Because I've seen all 3 methods listed and I'm unsure of what to use.

Priming red or white is probably your best bet if you want it to be a strong or bright red. Prime it black and base it red if you want it to be a darker red. It depends on the results you want, but most likely you want a strong red, so pick a red primer.

From my personal experiences painting red by brush over a black (sprayed on) primer I would go with option B.

A.) Takes more time, higher chance of clogging up details as you apply multiple (thinned) layers of red to get good coverage over the black. I don't mean to say it's impossible, but rather there's just more room for error with regards to getting splotchy results, poor coverage, or apply too many coats in search of good coverage.

B.) Bit more expensive as you have to buy a red spray primer. Honestly these days I always prime in the colour the majority of the model will be. My Imperial Fists get yellow spray primer, etc.

C.) You can do this if you have a can of black spray primer but regular red paint. Just be careful about clogging up the details.

I'd prime brown, and then paint the red. It gives a better base as if you do black, but its also darker than red.

Dragon's done

looks fukken sick, good job mate

The armor is copper, but ended up looking really brown in the pictures

So to what temperature I can prime without isses? It's getting cold lately.

The Shadow Legion grows. Going to use them in stuff like Frostgrave and Song of Blades and Heroes, maybe Heroquest.

Big guy is a Heroclix-type model, so I swapped out his floppy sword for one made from plasticard. Strange guy on the end is from the D&D Fantasy Adventure Boardgame, not much detail on him so I tried to pick out around his hood a little.

I was thinking of doing something similar but with screaming faces instead of a glow

Good execution!

Really, really nice. But maybe I would try to make the gem perfectly round and smooth, since it's really visible

So glad i haven't fucked it up yet. We'll see how i do with putty work. Hows the pose so far?

>Am I a bad enough dude to mod a KDM monster?

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Now the motherships done I'm painting up the Voidgates that go with it, I'm going to have to paint about 9 of these stupid things for my fleet and I'm getting bored half way through one.

Guys, what wash should i use for a dark red power armor (Word Bearers)? Brown? Black? Red maybe?

How do you strip off paint off of a single point on a model without messing up the paint on the rest of the model? I was trying to put stripes on a model and ended up adding too much paint trying to fix them up and now the paint is thick and obscuring the details on the model.

I USA devland mud for my khorne guys

I need a better desk setup. Painting all these fine details is hurting my back

mix a little reikland fleshshade with some of the red shade

Agrax Earthshade works the best, or a similar brown shade. If you use red shade it'll blend in too much. Go in for Carroburg Crimson if you want a slightly more purple shade.

DKOK guy from the earlier thread, progress on one of my gun placements, sculpted some sand bags, the base is temporary, getting bigger ones for these. Sorry for bad lighting, its already night here and i have shit for lamps

That's good question. I have no idea, but it bothers me as well.

looks very dark despite the visible highlights

why are they so glossy? did you varnish them for a wash?

use an airbrush with a bottle of surface primer and flow improver, and not a rattlecan, and things will go much much better in many different temperatures.

i have a shitty cellphone camera that really picks up on highlights and leaving everything else dark, shitty lighting doesnt really help either, no varnish. IRL they dont look glossy at all, ill try to get some better pics tomorrow, also gonna add some barbed wire when the bases arrive.

This guy is a complete basketcase.

First off, he was leaning like fuck and his spear wasn't straight. So I do the thing the Reaper Bones FAQ suggests, and put him in boiling water to straighten before leaving in ice water. Except after a couple of weeks on my desk he's basically gone back, hence the convenient piece of slate.

Attempted to paint straight basecoats on as recommended, but the coverage is awful. I've also misidentified the fur on his back as chainmail, but with him having a light brown horse body and dark brown hair and tail, I'm stuck for what to paint that.

That's just a meme, always wash your minis and prime them.

Are Reaper Bones minis low quality sculpts or casts? I've seen dozens of pictures of them and they never look great. It can't just be the painters...

The Burning of Properos box broke me, so I'm gonna start an Iron Warriors army.

Here's the test scheme that I whipped up, I'm pretty inexperienced with metallic colors and weathering, but I think this is acceptable and pretty simple to paint en-mass.

They are rough when the detail is too small, so the best option is to buyy the bigger ones, which are amazing for a good price. This is one I painted quite some time ago

does anyone have any links to open source laser cut terrain stuff?

A local store is getting setup, but they have nothing in the score or traditional tabletop terrain pieces.

They published on their fb oage some time ago, asking what SM/CSM old models the fans wanted to see. Many peoplz asked for the Diaz Daemonettes, I saw some Johnnies lost in the mass of sweating neckbeard though.
So I guess they're looking at their options and choosing carefully which models to produce.

Fuck it, they're finally done after 2 months, Khornate Wulfen count-as.

Found a lot of new color recipes while painting these guys, pretty happy with the red and the flesh color

Thanks. I mixed Agrax with a little vallejo flesh shade. I think it turned out quite well.

So I'm basically done with my unit of Saurus knights, and I'm mostly happy with how they turned out.

Except for the feathers on the leader's mount's headdress. I kinda hate those, but I don't know what I should do with those.

Or just keep a bottle of vallejo primer and use it with a brush if the weather prevents you from using a can.

howAmISupposedToCompeteWithThis.jpg

Is the rust effect good enough? I followed Duncan's turorial but I feel like the Typhus Corrosion should have been thicker to get a better finish.

Yeah, but it's not about ,,what to do when I can't" but rather ,,when I can". Apart from hot, dry summer days, of course.

I like them m80. Those bases are nice, and it would be good to hear more about how you did them.

I followed the color recommendations on the box pretty close, except for mixing instead of buying paints.

light grey base for the stone. Wash in 'greenshade' (in my case 1 to 1 mix of biel-tan and drakenoff nightshade), then dry brush with a pure white.
Dirt/sand is dryad bark (i used incubus darkness mixed with dark brown, gives that very dark greyish green brown), thin layer of lorean forest, then a lot of drybrushing with a mix of khaki and zanthrid dust (the box says Tyrant skull, i found the mix matched the color well).
Go all over on the drybrushing and heavier than you do with normal highlighting as the drybrush color is the main color that you see though into the recesses.
the designs are just dark blue with layered highlights.

another pick showing how the feathers that I don't like a little better

Everytime I see anything from this army it looks like a children's coloring book...sorry buddy.

It looks like a bit of rust. If you want heavy rust, go over it again. There is no "good" or "bad" rust. Just little and alot.

the bases by themselves. The thicker white is where I tried painting white rather than drybrushing.

So, I got gifted an airbrush for my birthday. Any good guides for beginners out there on how to use one properly, and tips for maintenance and cleaning? I'm nervous as hell about using it for the first time.

Don't buy expensive airbrush cleaner. Use IPA (isoproyl alcohol) instead. Its way cheaper.

youtube.com/watch?v=G_imma6_XhA

I'd get a small bottle, the added surfactants and such are very useful if you've got gunk in your brush that pure IPA won't get loose.

BUy the metal ones instead of the white rubber crap

Fucking sexy, love the NMM

To the user who had the yellow painted Imperial Fist, that posted Tuesday or Wednesday? What were the colors you used for those fist?

They aren't good sculpts.
Most bigger monsters and creatures are "good enough" though. Great even if you consider their price.
Reapers metal minis are nice and they aren't that expensive either, so i'd rather pay $5 for a human sized metal mini with good detail than buying 2 for 2,50 each but with mediocre detail (and bendy/rubber-ish material) but maybe you just need 20 cheap orc/goblin/henchmen or somehting, then the cheap alternative is acceptable too.

>They aren't good sculpts.
Replace sculpts with "casts". The sculpts of most reaper minis is good or even very good.

this army as in lizardmen, or my army in particular when I've posted here?

Please talk me out of giving this guy a Nuln Oil/Agrax wash.

Do I paint his sword? Do I just paint him like the rest?

if you have to wash him, use a green wash

How efficient is Agrellan Earth? I hear you're supposed to glob it pretty thick, will one small pot last me ~50 bases or should I buy more?

Can't work out if I should paint the sword either way.

Did the head and tabard-thing. I think I'm happy to stop here and start working on the base.

Lookin' smooth user.

depends on how thick you want to go, but if you have one of the newer pots (the big ones), it should easily last you 50 bases.

if you're giving him a wash at all, you might just wanna go with a green, look up what other people have done with em

Quick question. I traded some stuff for the mark 3 space marines from the new plastic Horus Heresy box but I don't have the instructions for them. I'm dumb and can't tell which arms are for which guns. Would someone mind taking a picture of the book for me?

Thanks m80s.
>mfw using an airbrush for the first time
I honestly don't know how I've gone so long without one. Fucking crazy.

I'd change the bolter casing to another colour, personally. Help break up the black a bit more.

What mini is that? Awesome work bro. I envy your skill.

reaper storm giant

Looks nice. More highlights on focus spots like Gun and face.

You might want to make it slightly wider zones, otherwise people might miss it.
Do some OSL on the Ground and tombstone.
Very clean, possibly too clean. Don't make the bases too bright or visually interesting or you'll kill the mini.

Not bad at all., I like where this is going.
And that starting survivor makes me jelly.

Is there any manufacturer who makes helmets in the style of the FW plague marine ones? Preferably in non-corrupt form.

I have a similar question, im looking to make my Tau Ethrenal HQ a special character with a JoJo-esque stand, what are some sites that could have humanoid monster characters in the right scale/size?

Oh and i think maybe Puppetswar has.

so I'm nearing the highlighting stage on my carnasaur, and part of me is saying I should do a really good detail job on the scales as it's my big centerpiece model.
The other part is saying that's a shitload of scales and just drybrush the damn thing.

How do I fix this.

Please help

What did you do? If it's paint then just strip the model.