/hwg/ - Historical Wargames General

Tippecanoe & Tyler Too Edition

Previous thread: Get in here, post games, miniatures, questions, whatever you like.

List of mini providers:
docs.google.com/document/d/1uGaaOSvSTqpwPGAvLPY3B5M2WYppDhzXdjwMpqRxo9M/edit

List of Historical Tactical, Strategic, and Military Drill treatises:
pastebin.com/BfMeGd6R

ZunTsu Gameboxes:
mediafire.com/folder/yaokao3h1o4og/ZunTsu_GameBoxes

/hwg/ Steam Group:
steamcommunity.com/groups/tghwg/

Games, Ospreys & References folders:
mediafire.com/folder/lu95l5mgg06d5/Ancient
mediafire.com/folder/81ck8x600cas4/Medieval
mediafire.com/folder/w6m41ma3co51e/Horse_and_Musket
mediafire.com/folder/vh1uqv8gipzo1/Napoleonic
mediafire.com/folder/bbpscr0dam7iy/ACW
mediafire.com/folder/bvdtt01gh105d/Victorian
mediafire.com/folder/b35x147vmc6sg/World_War_One
mediafire.com/folder/z8a13ampzzs88/World_War_Two
mediafire.com/folder/z8i8t83bysdwz/Vietnam_War
mediafire.com/folder/7n3mcn9hlgl1t/Modern

mediafire.com/folder/6jrcg496e7vnb/Avalon Hill
mediafire.com/folder/pq6ckzqo3g6e6/Field_Of_Glory
mediafire.com/folder/r2mff8tnl8bjy/GDW
mediafire.com/folder/whmbo8ii2evqh//SPI
mediafire.com/folder/ws6yi58d2oacc/Strategy_&_Tactics_Magazine
mediafire.com/folder/lx05hfgbic6b8/Naval_Wargaming
mediafire.com/folder/s1am77aldi1as/Wargames
mega.nz/#F!ZAoVjbQB!iGfDqfBDpgr0GC-NHg7KFQ

Other urls found in this thread:

mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
mega.nz/#F!XsVD0KgT!twB1NWiFE3aKXK_O1EZ4pA
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
mega.nz/#F!i1N3xZxL!C6fQ3Z8o2U0gtk5kdXuVcQ
mediafire.com/file/bg759w9l37fnkvb/Osprey - MAA 352 - The United States Army 1783-1811.pdf
mediafire.com/file/u8vkiv5tou9lw0q/Osprey - MAA 467 - North American Indian Tribes of the Great Lakes.pdf
caliverbooks.com/Partizan Press/partizan_18thTTT.shtml
youtube.com/watch?v=DTTSgtUYfS0&index=13&t=1441s&list=PL5hm9OqGuJAQAzUfoQSFWOtvAOrmoW_00
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

>Wargaming Compendium
mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
>Saga
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
>Black Powder
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
>Bolt Action
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
>Hail Caesar
mega.nz/#F!XsVD0KgT!twB1NWiFE3aKXK_O1EZ4pA
>Warhammer Ancient battles 2.0
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
>Warmaster Ancients
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
>Advanced Squad Leader
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
>Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
>Battleground WWII
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
>By Fire And Sword
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
>Modelling & painting guides
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
>Twilight 2000/2013 RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
>Phoenix Command RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
>Next War (GMT)
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
>Battlegroup
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
>Fleet Series
mega.nz/#F!i1N3xZxL!C6fQ3Z8o2U0gtk5kdXuVcQ

Desired scans :
Black Powder supplements
Rank and File supplements
Harpoon 3 & 4 supplements
Force on Force supplements
Hind Commander
At Close Quarters
War and Conquest

7th of November in military history:

1426 – Lam Sơn uprising: Lam Sơn rebels emerge victorious against the Ming army in the Battle of Tốt Động – Chúc Động taking place in Đông Quan, in now Hanoi.
1811 – Tecumseh's War: The Battle of Tippecanoe is fought near present-day Battle Ground, Indiana, United States.
1861 – American Civil War: Battle of Belmont: In Belmont, Missouri, Union forces led by General Ulysses S. Grant overrun a Confederate camp but are forced to retreat when Confederate reinforcements arrive.
1900 – Battle of Leliefontein, a battle during which the Royal Canadian Dragoons win three Victoria Crosses.
1908 – Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid are reportedly killed in San Vicente, Bolivia.
1914 – The German colony of Kiaochow Bay and its centre at Tsingtao are captured by Japanese forces.
1917 – The Gregorian calendar date of the October Revolution, which gets its name from the Julian calendar date of 25 October. On this date in 1917, the Bolsheviks storm the Winter Palace.
1917 – World War I: Third Battle of Gaza ends: British forces capture Gaza from the Ottoman Empire.
1918 – Kurt Eisner overthrows the Wittelsbach dynasty in the Kingdom of Bavaria.
1944 – Soviet spy Richard Sorge, a half-Russian, half-German World War I veteran, is hanged by his Japanese captors along with 34 of his ring.
1956 – Suez Crisis: The United Nations General Assembly adopts a resolution calling for the United Kingdom, France and Israel to immediately withdraw their troops from Egypt.
1957 – Cold War: The Gaither Report calls for more American missiles and fallout shelters.
1975 – In Bangladesh, a joint force of people and soldiers takes part in an uprising led by Colonel Abu Taher that ousts and kills Brigadier Khaled Mosharraf, freeing the future president Maj-Gen. Ziaur Rahman.
2004 – Iraq War: The interim government of Iraq calls for a state of emergency as U.S. forces storm the insurgent stronghold of Fallujah.

It is 205 years since the Battle of Tippecanoe, fought near present-day Lafayette, Indiana, between American forces led by Governor William Henry Harrison of the Indiana Territory and Native American warriors associated with the Shawnee leader Tecumseh.

In the wake of the 1809 Treaty of Fort Wayne which saw 3,000,000 acres of land transferred from the Native Americans to the United States, Tecumseh began a rise to prominence. Angry over the treaty's terms, he revived the idea that Native American land was owned in common by all the tribes and could not be sold without each giving their consent. Lacking the resources to directly confront the United States, he began a campaign of intimidation among the tribes to ensure that the treaty was not put into effect.

While Tecumseh was working to build support, his brother Tenskwatawa, known as "The Prophet," had begun a religious movement which stressed a return to the old ways. Based at Prophetstown, near the confluence of the Wabash and Tippecanoe Rivers, he began garnering support from across the Old Northwest. In 1810, Tecumseh met with the governor of the Indiana Territory, William Henry Harrison, to demand that the treaty be declared illegitimate. Refusing, Harrison stated that each tribe had the right to treat separately with the United States.

Departing, Tecumseh began secretly accepting aid from the British in Canada and promised an alliance if hostilities broke out between Britain and the United States. In August 1811, Tecumseh again met with Harrison at Vincennes. Though promising that he and his brother sought only peace, Tecumseh departed unhappy and Tenskwatawa began gathering forces at Prophetstown. Traveling south, he began seeking assistance from the "Five Civilized Tribes" of the Southeast and encouraged them to join his confederacy against the United States.

In the wake of his meeting with Tecumseh, Harrison traveled to Kentucky on business leaving his secretary, John Gibson, at Vincennes as acting-governor. Utilizing his connections among the Native Americans, Gibson soon learned that forces were gathering at Prophetstown. Calling out the militia, Gibson sent letters to Harrison urging his immediate return. By mid-September, Harrison had returned along with elements of the 4th US Infantry. Forming his army at Maria Creek near Vincennes, Harrison's total force numbered around 1,000 men.

Moving north, Harrison encamped at present-day Terre Haute on October 3 to await supplies. While there, his men constructed Fort Harrison but were prevented from foraging by Native American raids. Finally re-supplied on October 28, Harrison resumed his advance the next day. Nearing Prophetstown on November 6, Harrison's army encountered a messenger from Tenskwatawa who requested a ceasefire and a meeting the next day. Wary of Tenskwatawa's intentions, Harrison accepted, but moved his men onto a hill near an old Catholic mission.

A strong position, the hill was bordered by Burnett Creek on the west and a steep bluff to the east. Though he ordered his men to camp in a rectangular battle formation, Harrison did not instruct them to build fortifications and instead trusted to the strength of the terrain. While the militia formed the main lines, Harrison retained the regulars as his reserve. At Prophetstown, Tenskwatawa's followers began fortifying the village while their leader determined a course of action. While the Winnebago agitated for an attack, Tenskwatawa consulted the spirits and decided launch a raid designed to kill Harrison.

Casting spells to protect his warriors, Tenskwatawa sent his men to the American camp. The attempt on Harrison's life was guided by an African-American wagon-driver who had defected to the Shawnees. Approaching the American lines, he was captured by American sentries.

Despite this failure, Tenskwatawa's warriors did not withdraw and around 4:30 AM on November 7, they launched an attack on Harrison's men. After a minor diversion against the north end of the camp, the main assault struck the south end which was held by an Indiana militia unit known as the "Yellow Jackets."

Shortly after the fighting began, their commander, Captain Spier Spencer, was killed followed by two of his lieutenants. Leaderless, the Yellow Jackets began falling back. Alerted to the danger, Harrison dispatched two companies of regulars, who, along with the Yellow Jackets, sealed the breach. A second assault came a short time later and struck both the northern and southern parts of the camp. The reinforced line in the south held, while a charge from Harrison's dragoons broke the back of the northern attack.

For over an hour Harrison's men held off the Native Americans. Running low on ammunition and with the rising sun revealing their inferior numbers, the warriors began retreating back to Prophetstown. A final charge from the dragoons drove off the last of the attackers. Fearing that Tecumseh would return with reinforcements, Harrison spent the remainder of the day fortifying the camp. At Prophetstown, Tenskwatawa was accosted by his warriors who stated that his magic had not protected them. Imploring them to make a second attack, all of Tenskwatawa's pleas were refused. On November 8, a detachment of Harrison's army arrived at Prophetstown and found it abandoned except for a sick old woman.

A victory for Harrison, Tippecanoe saw his army suffer 62 killed and 126 wounded. While casualties for Tenskwatawa's smaller attacking force are not known with precision, it is estimated that they suffered 36-50 killed and 70-80 wounded. The defeat was a serious blow to Tecumseh's efforts to build a confederacy against the United States and the loss damaged Tenskwatawa's reputation.

Tecumseh remained an active threat until his death in 1813 at the Battle of the Thames. On the larger stage, the Battle of Tippecanoe further fueled the tensions between Britain and the United States as many Americans blamed the British for inciting the tribes to violence. These tensions came to a head in June 1812 with the outbreak of the War of 1812.

When William Henry Harrison ran for President of the United States during the election of 1840, he used the slogan "Tippecanoe and Tyler Too" to remind people of his heroism during the battle.

The wars of the young American state fighting against the Indians of the "Old Northwest" have always been a popular gaming subject. Terrain and manoeurve become all important, and the focus on company-sized actions is perfect for skirmish fans. At the moment there are a number of appropriate rules systems available.

(There is actually a Campaign covering this battle, and a recent one too, but as luck would have it I can't find it anywhere online.)
mediafire.com/file/bg759w9l37fnkvb/Osprey - MAA 352 - The United States Army 1783-1811.pdf
mediafire.com/file/u8vkiv5tou9lw0q/Osprey - MAA 467 - North American Indian Tribes of the Great Lakes.pdf

This month's community project is a recon or scout asset.

To when it is due?

The 16th

Anything new and exciting in the troves lately?

Lets talk about Waterloo.

I got the Black Powder starter set and started to research the units involved at Waterloo.

A french infantry brigade is roughly 2000 men strong.
Excluding the reserve brigades and brigades with light infantry regiments each brigade consists of two regiments, which itself consist of two battalions, each 6 companies strong.

Looking at the Perry and Warlord boxes one battalion consists of 36 figures, six each for one company. This makes a brigade four units, each 36 figures.


On the british side though brigades range from 2000 to 4000 men and each brigade has different unit types and sizes.
For example III/1st Foot Guards is roughly the strength of a french regiment but consists of ten companies. So, would I split the unit in two 30 figure units, each representing five companies or make it a huge 60 figure unit and double its stamina, shooting and hand to hand combat stats?


Is this problem worked out in the waterloo supplement book?
Are there common ways to handle this problem in the historical war gaming community?

Sorry, what is the problem?

Is your question about the differing sizes of French and British battalions?

>Are there common ways to handle this problem in the historical war gaming community?

Yeah;
1: Don't fret about it too much.
2: Unit size is generally more important than figure count. Just increase the 1 miniature = however many people ratio until acceptably not insane.
3: Play in 6mm or 10mm if you are genuinely insane or rich of space, time and money enough to even consider a unit of 60+ miniatures as something to be gamed with, especially in 28mm

sorry rereading it I think I understand - the problem is that you would end up with a double strength unit due to army organisation.

I don't play BP, but in general in wargaming you want units to be fairly similar in numbers (even though the manouever elements of different armies had different sizes) to avoid unstoppable super units.

For example the Grande Armee rulebook has a system for creating army lists from historical orders of battle, but suggests that units shouldn't too often go above a strength of 9 (i dont remember the exact number but it's around that) and that if they do you should consider breaking the unit into 2 smaller units of 5 and 5 or 6 and 6 or what have you.

Ergo I would put the Foot Guards in as 2 units of 30.

If that isn't your question then uhhh never mind.

Excuse me if I'm wrong, but isn't Black Powder fairly scalable? A "Unit" can represent something as small as a company or large as brigade, no?

>1: Don't fret about it too much.
This is how Napoleonics should be approached under any circumstances.

Napoleonics should be treated like a good bit of Sharpe's imo. Rousing tales of history being the main draw, with the dedication to historical accuracy being important, but not to the button-counting level.

Yeah.

1) How many men were doing fight that day?
2) How many units were they divided into?
3) How many toy soldiers do you have handy that you can fit on the table?

Massage numbers until your toy soldiers are appropriately distributed with approximate density - that is, if one side has larger units, their units should be a bit bigger. If one region of the battlefield had twice as many regiments as the other flank, put more units there.

>3: Play in 6mm or 10mm if you are genuinely insane or rich of space, time and money enough to even consider a unit of 60+ miniatures as something to be gamed with, especially in 28mm
Haha! 60+ miniatures! What kind of moron...!

My 2017 plan involves a bunch of Charles Grant's The War Game-sized regiments of ancient spencer smith minis, so 48 rankers and 5 officers a unit. but at least they're cheap and not excessively detailed, I should be able to paint them without going crazy.

>My 2017 plan involves a bunch of Charles Grant's The War Game-sized regiments of ancient spencer smith minis, so 48 rankers and 5 officers a unit. but at least they're cheap and not excessively detailed, I should be able to paint them without going crazy.

And argh, fuck, I just discovered these: caliverbooks.com/Partizan Press/partizan_18thTTT.shtml

Going to have to buy a few, based on battle write-ups I've seen on blogs. I always have enjoyed CS Grant's scenarios... there goes even more money.

Given your plans, looks like you could spare the cash anyway.

...

I did some math and dividing the number of soldiers by 20 and rounding to even numbers and dividing units over 40 figures produces good results except for some huge units.

You'll get bored by the second unit.

I use universally 24-men units.

1 miniature = 40 people is not an uncommon scaling. Produces reasonable sized units as even a 1000 strong is only 25 figures.

How does Osfront handle artillery?

when you move to a battle where 1 unit is 1000 men maybe 28mm is no longer the best choice.

And airstrikes, for that matter

No, but people do insist on doing it that way anyway.

I have played in a game like that but it was on a 21'x6' table with a half dozen others and not using our own models. Good times were had but utterly impractical for gaming under normal conditions.

Eh, it's abstract. It's about playing with toy soldiers at that scale. Looks pretty cool to me, although of course playing in 6mm or 10mm or 20mm is perfectly good too.

28mm's nice even on a small board with a handful of 12-figure units on 4" frontage.

What's a good book on the Thirty Years War? I've heard the aptly titled The Thirty Years War by C.V. Wedgwood is a pretty good one, but I figured I'd ask /hwg/.

Been wondering about this also, pretty hard to find stuff in English about it that's actually good but not out of date or incredibly restrictively priced.

You and your opponent include "units" of air support in your army lists up to a certain limit defined by the scale of the battle. When the game starts, air support cancels each other out. If you bought three and your opponent two, you get to keep one. At the start of each of your turn, roll 1d6 per unit of air support, a result of 5+ gets you an air strike.

They're powerful, but expensive and a little hard to call in. I like to include 2 to 4 units, depending on the points available. AA units can protect other units within their range from air attacks, but the best AA can be as expensive as air support itself.


Artillery is a unit on the field. You call out a target without measuring and, depending on the distance, throw a number of dice along with a scatter die. The result is direction and distance.

Artillery is expensive and somewhat unreliable when it comes to hitting things, but still good against infantry and light vehicles.

I enjoyed "Europe's Tragedy" although I'm not sure how good that makes it.

The air support system seems neat, a nice little bid kind of thing going on.

Nice, simple and engaging, I like it.

So you don't have off-table artillery?

I've heard both good and bad about it. Which isn't helpful.

You can buy preliminary bombardments, which are used right after deployment. Larger area of effect, but wildly inaccurate. They're the only off-map artillery option I think.

If you're willing to deal with the added scatter, you can put your artillery further in the back, where they can only be hit by counter artillery, air support or expensive units that are short on targets. The last one isn't that likely to happen in my experience.

Have some WiP Romano British

...

...

BMP

what is the best scale to get tanks for a fistful of tows and how many vehicles would i need for a good game.

6mm, and depends on the sides, though usually about 10-30 a side is good for tank complements, double that for mechanised or motorised infantry transports. Easiest thing is to go for a company/battalion/regiment structure.

yeah 6mm. 3mm would also work.

You could start with just getting a battalion per side and grow that up to larger units as you get more models. For scenarios obviously you'd want larger force for the attacker (typically 2 to 3x the defenders) but just to get playing a couple Bns will work for a meeting engagement.

Looks like Hobby Boss is starting a line of quick build armor kits

Interested to see how the track setups are for a quick build.

What scale?

1/72

Very nice looking user

Whichever scale you like. If you have the space and money for 28mm, be my guest.

In the last game I played I was able to sneak a T-34/85 and an aerosan right around the opponents flank and destroy both his artillery batteries. That doesn't happen very often, and I just happened to be in a position where I was behind cover and protected from most of the enemy guns, and could spend 2 turns picking off one battery, then move slightly and spend another 2 turns picking off the next one. It was the end of the game by the time this happened, but I think it helped my infantry in the centre survive, and helped me win the game.

You can see the T-34 and aerosan in the top left of this pic. That huge piece of terrain to their right gave them cover from all the big guns. You can see the first howitzer battery turning and attempting to shoot open sights at them (it has the horse on the base, just to the right of the terrain piece)
There was a king tiger and a tiger that I tried my best to take down but just couldn't. Literally spent my entire game firing 2 howitzer batteries at that king tiger - only managed to damage its tracks. Artillery isn't the most effective way to take down heavy tanks heh. Air support is much more effective, but less reliable.
The IS-2 at the bottom of the pic had a bit of a chance, but never quite got the hit it was looking for, and it was eventually destroyed by the long barrel 88 on the king tiger.

Anybody have any recommendations for painting German uniforms? I have some Vallejo German field gray but I think it might be a little too green.

Wip volksgrenadiers for German fieldgray

...

>German field gray
>but I think it might be a little too green.
>German fieldgray

OH SHI-

Nah it's field grey

I also enjoyed it, but then I'm the sort of person who sees a 17th century currency-conversion chart and pores over it closely instead of throwing the book away in disgust, so bear that in mind

I also thought this when I first got it, but everyone assures me field grey uniforms really were that green. If you look at reenactor's uniforms, they very a lot, from greener than that to full-on grey.

You could gently drybrush it with a light (proper) gray highlight to make it slightly greyer without losing the greenness if you want something more like the pic on the left, or use a brown wash and mix 2:1 field gray+white for highlights to get it more like the pic on the right

warlord probably has a tutorial for this now that i think of it...

Thanks. I suppose the variation makes sense, given the allied bombing campaigns. I'll do a highlight on some to add to that aspect.

Well, it's awesome to see, tho I'm really uninterested in the Merkava as I happen to have six of them for some reason.

Iam most likely receiving the Painting War Napoleonic British and French issues today, would there be an interest in scans of those?

>those mountains
That is a pretty board that I would be proud to play on.

Stuff like that is always gratefully appreciated user, so go ahead if it's no hassle (I know how much of a pain scanning can be).

Fieldgrey is very greenish.

You can use a blue wash if you want to represent some more blue-ish batch, but green-brown-grey is the best and most fitting color, especially for late war.

Your blue helmets and the cap look very out of place though. Besides, thats a camo cloth covered helmet, so it shouldn't be blue anyway.

This was probably posted 5000 times already, but here you have it again. Almost everything works for german late war units when soldiers from different original units were merged into new squads/battalions etc.
A unit which was formed in Nuremberg and trained in Poland and sent to Belarus would wear uniforms from a different batch than a unit formed in Hamburg, trained in France and then sent to Ukraine. And if in 1944 soldiers from both of these divisions were merged into a new Volksgrenadierdivision, they would get new cloth, but wouldn't replace ever part of their stuff with the new ones, so in the end you had a unit with gear from 3 origins.

Dont forget replacements from nearly everywhere.

This is the real beauty of historicals. I can tell someone to fuck off when they don't like my colors, because as long as it ain't neon, its probably a color that got worn on the battlefield.

..well I got a friend who is playing to paint up some germans in Wolfenstein 3D colors, that might not be accurate.

>I got a friend who is planning to paint up
i make some weird spelling errors sometimes

I don't know, did Napoleon lost at Waterloo?

Absolutely mate, especially if you have a decent scanner, sadly the WW2 German leave something to desire.

I have the German one in the mail too, as the scan was of unsatisfying quality and missing pages.

>Less reliable

Every single game I try to field a Tiger it gets instantly BTFO by the USA and it's unlimited airstrikes. I've decided to drop it for a couple of Pzkf IIs at this point.

How does Recce interact with air strikes?

>How does Recce interact with air strikes?

Are you talking about Ostront or Bolt Action?

If you're worried about your heavy tank being air-striked, take a "neutralizing" air element: 1 or 2 air support units, and some Flak88s and maybe mobile AA. Flak88s are great for defending against air strikes, or perhaps quad flaks. If you can knock your opponent down to 1 or less air support, it will become much less reliable, and when it does finally show up, you'll have a good chance of defending it with your AA defense units.

Medium tanks are pretty reliable in ostfront, things like the PZ.III and Pz.IV perform pretty well and are relatively cheap and you wont mind if one or two get blown up. always worth taking a few.

Recce requires you to play with the recon cards - the first unit to make contact with the card can take it into their hand - it could be a free air strike or artillery bombardment, or a camo tank appearing, or it could be a free shot during the enemies turn. Essentially recce gives you a minor bonus, not really game breaking but a boost to reward you for scouting out the area before the enemy.

You could potentially use mobile AA trucks as recce - they're not as cheap as regular armored cars and jeeps but pretty much a bofors on a truck with can fire at ground targets or defend from air strikes - pretty versatile.

What size games do you guys usually play? how are you finding the system?

So, i've got the new Armies of Germany book and i'm really disappointed at this point.

None (expect the Sturmpioniere) of the "new" units (from the Blitzkrieg, Desert, Ostfront or the Western front book) are in the new book. No Brandenburgers, no Stug-Begleit..

At least there is an entry for Mountain troops now.

Lots of spelling errors.

Theater selectors are lacking. Some from the mentioned additional books are missing, others really lack originality and are simply copied over from the first edition of the book.

There is, for example, the "Anti partisan security patrol" selector for eastern front 43/44.

The book allows only Heer Infantry, Waffen-SS (early) and SS-Cavalry as infantry choices here.

Why not allow units such as Osttruppen or Luftwaffe-Fielddivision (or even the new Gebirgsjäger like SS Handschar for example) for these security actions.

Its really lame.
The mini i got with the book looks great (and has almost no flash/mold lines), but since medics can't have rifles its use is kinda limited..

>but since medics can't have rifles
AFAIK they can, or at least they could in 1st ed.

1st edition: Pistol or none
2nd edition: Pistol or none

Eh, wouldn't fret too much about it anyways. In the Eastern front Soviets didn't really give a shit about medics' crosses, so they got some weapons with them.

True, and personally i don't care since the mini looks really good, but it feels kinda sloppy to have rules that say A and then the model shows B.

What are the special rules Germany has now?

...

Blitzkrieg (Officers can activate +1 one unit compared to the other nations, so 2nd LT can activate 2 instead of one etc)

Tiger-Fear (Tanks with that rule (Panzer 4 G and bigger) will give every enemy +1 pin if in direct line of sight for their activation. Only shots against the "tiger" are tested without that extra pin)

Initiative training (Same as in the old book, but it got buffed so the NCO is replaced if you roll a 2+ instead of 4+. I think this was already in the V2 core rules)

Hitlers Buzzsaw (+1 dice for machine guns. Now also vehicle-mmgs)

Have they made the germans special rules abit too good

Have they made the special rules abit to good

>Lots of spelling errors.
they really are ex GW

Hard to tell if the rules are too good, i have not played with them yet. Time will tell.
But since they lowered the range of ARs maybe it balances itself out nicely.

I never used a Pz4 or one of the bigger tanks. (I always felt a Pz3 or Stug combined with Panzerschreck and -fausts is enough AT). I might get a Pz4 now to see how that Tiger fear works out.

why did you change "too" to "to"
it was correct the first time

So i started to paint these soviet scouts. Its the first time i attempt to paint "Amoeba"-camo.

How does it look? Alright or should i re-paint them?

obviously wip so pls don't tell me that there is no wash/highlight :^)

>>mouldline

Otherwise, it's looking nice.

FFFFFFFFFFFFF...

seriously.. i hate metal minis. I always miss some.

Are you a texture paint fot the bases?

Nice quint.

Yes, its vallejo "brown earth" texture paint. Once washed and drybrushed it will way better than now.

The uniforms looks nice. You need to do something about the metal bases on your bases, though. Looks moderately like shit right now.

Yes, i will either slap on more of the mud paste or glue a little bit of sand around the metal base in the middle.
Its always a bit tricky with the texture paint because it shrinks as it dries and then that "edge" is visible again.

I would advice some putty for the initial bulk filler, saving the paint 'til last.

static grass patches are good at hiding them

Putty like GS?

That will be the last resort, but a bit more texture paint should be enough.

I'll post some more pics once i did some more painting.

Any good painting guides for modern US desert camo? Couldn't really find any.

Is a video ok too?
youtube.com/watch?v=DTTSgtUYfS0&index=13&t=1441s&list=PL5hm9OqGuJAQAzUfoQSFWOtvAOrmoW_00

Yup, thanks! Totally forgot she did a video on these.