WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

This duder (which perhaps stupidly I chose as a test model) is almost finished, just a bit of touch up/detail work and decals whenever the fuck they arrive from FW.

Lookin' smooth!

I like it, looks really neat! maybe the staff could use some work, though.

it seems to be that the styles of the plasma gun and the rest of the model clash a bit, though it may be just me. other than that it all is painted really well.

>game tomorrow
>want to finish army
>start painting
>get diarrhea
>run to toilet every 4 minutes

I wish I could paint while taking a shit.

is your toilet so small? not even a sink there or something you can put a piece of cardboard on to make a makeshift table?

or if it's really runny you can sit in the bathtub, butthole over drain hole, a board across the borders, paint on that

Who shits in their bath?
What kind of person are you?

Problem is that I'd have to paint on my lap since nothing is in range to put my stuff on. And I sure won't risk one of my models falling off my lap and somehow getting into the toilet.

And it's not fluid enough to just shit down a drain.

Not like I'd even try that, holy shit man.

You're not going to see the base below the miniature....

And if you use strong enough glue it won't fall off. Like superglue? You don't need to attach the model by scraping paint away, but you could pin if you REALLY wanted to.

Has a anyone ever used colored primer here to basecoat a vehicle? I'm getting frustrated with brush painting my Rhino and I'm considering just grabbing a can of Krylon colored primer so I can get a smooth green base coat.

>user your paintjob looks like shit

Asking this in Warhammer threads.

How does the size of the island of blood Magee on gryphon compare to the Phoenix? Similar or big discrepancy?

Pictures would be great but I'll take what I can get

I am a person without diarrhea, so I can paint at the table and don't have to make choices like that

well, if you change your mind, you can drink a lot of water and eat some laxatives, that should fix the drain problem

or you could just run to a dollar store real quick (wear brown pants just in case) and buy a tray with tall borders - paint on it, it will prevent models from taking a shit-dive. don't paint metal minis for the time being though - unlike plastic they will actually sink through shit

>mostly paint Warmahordes stuff
>occasionally pick up a commission here or there to paint a few pieces of 40k
>have urge to paint 40k army (not play, I hate the rules with a passion)
>In between jobs so food is more important.

My style of painting doesn't even fit 40k models anyway, but the itch is still there.

>food is more important
casual amateur.

The IoB gryphon is quite small, the size of an horse, even if the stretched pose makes it look bigger.

I've been through my phase of "hue hue time to buy 17 new models fuck now I have to eat noodles for a month".

Actually considering how fat i'm getting I should probably go back to that.

see? SEE?!
I passed that phase too once, and started getting fat. now I'm back to expanding my armies and i'm getting fitter.

food is overrated anyway. you can go without food for day or two with little problems.

You seem to have lot of personal insight on the matter Sir.

Thanks

spent some time on /b/, you wouldn't believe the shit you see.
people burning their dicks in microwaved feces they were trying to fuck for example

I wish I could stay home and paint today

Being a wageslave sucks sometimes

I've actually considered bringing in a cutting mat and some paints so I can actually do something in my lunch hours instead of reading clickbait.

I know that feeling.

Tried to get VPN access so I could work from home sometimes while my boss was in no fucks to give mode because he was leaving. New boss started before he could approve it.

I don't have VPN access now.

At least I can browse WIP

>Actually considering how fat i'm getting I should probably go back to that.

Well, if Han Solo (dumping his - sorry *your* - shipment at the first sign of an Imperial starship? And he calls himself a smuggler?!?) would pay you all that money he owes you, maybe you could finally afford to eat *and* buy miniatures.

Thanks!

Yeah the staff I'm not happy with for sure, plasma I've not decided on yet - I have some tactical supports to paint so I'll play around with stronger glows or brighter greens.

Cheers for the feedback

Yeah, it can be hit or miss depending on the colour - I've seen people do ultramarines like that.

Any tutorial in creating minis with paper,bottle caps and stuff like that? i want to create some final fantasy minis

Thanks. I have some of that but it just doesn't seem very strong

I was a bit worried that if I superglued the feet directly to paint, there's a chance of it all flaking off under stress.

I usually have a few toolboxes I'm bringing back and forth between home and work. I'm thinking about setting one up with all my modeling tools (need to anyway) so I can scrape dem moldlines and get paid for it.

Anyone else having issues painting with Pallid Wych Flesh? I either thin it too much and it comes out watery, or it always shows brush strokes. This is the only paint I've had these kinds of issues with. Even just flat white colors are easier than this.

>Any tutorial in creating minis with paper,bottle caps and stuff like that?
I don't understand.
What kind of miniature could you even build with paper and a bottle cap?
Do you mean something like printing a picture and gluing it onto the bottlecap as makeshift gaming piece?

Cause for actual miniatures you better start wit a cork, wire and the modeling clay of your choice.
A knife, your finger and a needle will do for most sculpting, if you want to get fancy you can get a set of wax carving tools cheap on amazon.

Pallid Wych Flesh is very translucent, so you're going to have coverage issues quite easily.
Maybe create a base to work from that's closer to PWF?
Say 75% PWF, 25% some high coverage white and then layer up from there?
Not sure if that would work, but a base that's similar should help hide any brush strokes more easily.

I'm doing an undercoat of Rakarth Flesh. Think that's close enough? I was thinking maybe do an average coat of PWF then a second thinner coat to improve coverage too. It just makes for a ton of work and it consumes a ton of paint since I'm painting a swarm nid army with it.

Basecoats about finished. Now to start the fun of highlighting.

Not sure if I want to have her be a brunette, or go with blonde.

It could work, but for an entire swarm that's a lot of extra work... The paint is a secondary concern given the number of models involved.

Maybe try airbrushing that stuff?
That should give you more even coverage from the get go, and a lot quicker for a swarm of 'nids.

haven't seen those instructions yet, pretty sweet! Thx!

Anyways: Made some progress on my harlequins. First full Troupe will be finished soonish™...

Where did you get that lady from user?

>brother-sergeant Valerius rallyes the local peasent militia to fight the heretical Tau-empire xenos...

looking pretty sweet! they already look good the way they are... what are you planning to do with the bases? Well, blonde always works for me...

Hasslefree minis, should be.. Alicia, I think?

I agree, an airbrush would definitely be a better option. I guess it's time to invest in one at this point.

Sold out on their website btw

Battlefield Berlin has her in stock though if you aren't afraid to order in germany. I don't know any other source.

Bases will likely be the standard fantasy grassy knoll. Not entirely sure. Got a bunch of others waiting to be painted afterwards, so I've some time to decide.

Yeah, Hasslefree's just gone through a big halloween sale and (I think?) a kickstarter, so I'm not sure what their stock's going to be like for november.

Yeah, I'm looking to buy one this Christmas as well. Are there any good beginner guides (including a shopping list or smth) out there?

Dr Faust on yt has a couple of airbrush related guides.

To play devil's advocate; I would pin. If you follow 's advice, you're relying on the bond between the paint and the base. Plus, unless it's a show mini, you have to assume the mini's going to be dropped/knocked around at some point.

I've been trying to avoid pinning with my models, but I might as well learn to do it right at some point. You're right though, I do expect these minis to be dropped at some point.

>you can sit in the bathtub, butthole over drain hole, a board across the borders, paint on that
>mfw picturing the scene in my mind

They are cool user, love the scheme.

What is the sauce of that gif?

Would airbrush users here recommend the method of applying shade and highlight first, then basing over that, or applying shades and highlights over the basecoat?

The second is how i do my imperial fists.

>What is the sauce of that gif?
Hero. Jet Li film.

>saving money by buying noodles instead of potatoes/rice/legumes/in season vegetables/cheap cuts of meat
>losing weight by eating noodles instead of the above, calories in calories out

Enjoy your wasted money and vitamin deficiency, you lazy cunt.

Be careful what you wish for. I've been a NEET for over a year living off of savings and my motivation to paint is close to zero.
It's so easy to procrastinate your painting from "later today" to "tomorrow" in an endless cycle while doing things that provide more short-term entertainment such as video games/TV shows/movies/fapping etc. Without sadness, there's no joy and so on.

Noob here, Would one of these forge world Cerastes knight heads fit on a paladin or an errant? if not, how much and what kind of work would be needed to get it on.

thanks!

Kinda digging how this DIY banner ended up.

Tho I totally forgot to decorate it before washing it.

I imagine the connecting joint will be fairly similar, but I have no idea if they're actually the same or not.

Fug

Is there a painting guide for 30K Dark Angels anywhere? Google seems to be failing me.
Just starting to assemble my Burning of Prospero box.

I'm making a Daemons of Tzeentch army with an allied renegade Knight, and I need to make the Knight more Daemon of Tzeentch-ish. He's mostly there to support my Screamers while they fly around and fuck shit up, so I was thinking I'd make him look like a Screamer. I've got a good idea of what I want to do, but I'd love to hear what you guys think.

Pic related is something I posted a couple of weeks ago when I first started coming up with ideas on making my Knight look more Daemonic, and I think I'm gonna stick with this. I'm also thinking lots and lots of eyeballs around the armor, and I'm gonna add a bunch of teeth to the armor plate on the battle cannon to make it look like the barrel is coming out of a lamprey mouth.

Thoughts? I also need a color scheme for my army. Something bright, but not too loud if you know what I'm saying? Possibly a soft lunar yellow primary with a nice rich blue secondary.

>paint black
>affix wing decal to shoulderpad

Look up a tutorial for black and do that. DA are probably the least complicated Legion to paint.

I'm new, give me the retard's painting guide.
Mainly what I need to buy.
So far I think I need a black spray thing to put first, then base paints then a wash.

Is that right?

U the guy of the aos general? Looks pretty okay. Take a look at some of the basic GW painting guides to get a feel what they're doing. Also, check YouTube, warhammertv for example.

>U the guy of the aos general?

Yep.
Okay, thank you.

Primer goes on first, it helps paint stick to the model. Doesn't have to be black, depending on the main colors you want your mini to be.

Base goes on second, this is gonna be the main color of your model.

Washes are next, they'll shade the model.

Layers are for brightening up spots on the model, like for building up highlights.

You'll also need some clippers (wire cutters work great) as well as a scalpel to clean mold lines.

Watch this video for a good idea of how the painting process works:

youtube.com/watch?v=enUqWuU-Nns&list=PL3lM6q3XSpms-TJ_KfVt6RkBHM0yO-F8M&index=18

Longer answer:it depends on the army and on the color scheme you are going for. As a start, I'd get one black, white, brown, blue, yellow, red, silver (maybe gold/bronze) and green color. If you want to paint skin, one skin color. If skulls or bone, one bone color. Additionally, for the main colors of your model, get 2 or three different shades of that color, so you can get consistent highlighting results without mixing (I would suggest Vallejo colors, as they're cheaper than GW and come in superior bottles). Also, get based Nuln Oil and Reikland Fleshshade, maybe one more shade of your choice. I'd advice you to get original GW shades, as they are better than most of the others on the market. Get one medium sized brush (2) and one finer detail brush (0/00). Important: read how to handle brushes properly. Also get one rattle can of the primer of your choice. Some ppl recommend a cheap brand (can't remember which), I personally use army painter spray. Really important is to thin your colors and try to be as accurate as possible while painting,even if you need multiple layers. And don't get discouraged if your first models look like shit, you'll progress pretty fast.

That should be like 50-60$ and will get you pretty far

Thanks.

Forgot to say, I'm going to buy the citadel starter set and it includes a "starter brush". Will that do or do I need to get another brush? I'm mainly worried about the small details.

I really wish more companies made comprehensive starter packs like the Army Painter pack. I love their package, but I just can't actually recommend their paint.

It's great to be able to just say, here, get this, it'll cover everything you need to paint for pretty much ever, at least until you're ready to start working with some advanced shit and by then you'll know what you want. But, unfortunately, their actual paint is weak shit, so I can't really recommend it.

Does anyone have advanced tutorial for bronze?

Yeah I never used their paints, only the primer. But so far everyone told me their paints are shit, so I'm staying away from them

Get 2 or 3 more brushes.

One intended for "drybrushing".
Also get a size 1 and a 0. (look for sable brushes in the $3-5 price range here)
These won't be the best brushes ever, but they are good enough to not completely suck and if you handle them correct they will last a while. If not, the damage to your wallet isn't to big.

If you plan to paint lots of big stuff like vehicles, consider a bigger brush like a 3 or maybe even a 4 too.

Iron Without!

What exactly is shit about their paint?
While i only used some of their spray cans and a single bottle of brown wash so far, a friend has 2 or 3 of their paint sets and never complained.

I don't have a gw shop within 100 miles of me, and I can't paint for shit. Wat do?

>One intended for "drybrushing".
Another user here, what kind of brush would you recommend for this air quotes "drybrushing" thing?

I'm... not going to lie, I have an easier time doing wet blending than I do with drybrushing. I don't understand it, either you don't have paint on the brush and it does nothing or you do have paint on the brush and it's like slapping paint on the mini in a retarded manner.

I'm not certain what I'm doing wrong, and I suspect it may be the brush I'm using.

It's fine, really.

The difference between all the paints from all the differences are just different shades of grey.

You'll be fine with Army Painter, Citadel, Vallejo etc etc

It doesn't matter.

>the emperor and his custodies are now being produced by gw and have their own codex. They are ridiculously OP but the look kool as fuck.
Wat do, Veeky Forums?

Nah u can drybrush with every brush, but it will take a toll on it, so a dedicated drybrush is advisable. You either use too much or too little paint, when it seems to not do anything, do some more strokes on the mini and you will see an effect. I normally use my finger to get rid of most if the paint from my brush.

A drybrushing brush obviously.

something like this:
games-workshop.com/en-US/L-Drybrush

Since he seems to be a total beginner i figured he might drybrush a lot in the beginning.. which would kill his brushes very effectively.

Maybe he figures out how to wet blend over time, but for a starter, drybrushing is a solid technique.

So, I'm and I actually did start with the Army Painter mega paint set, because it looked like a great value. 42 pots of paint and some brushes for $100, that's a ton of paint in a huge range sure why not. And for a long while I loved it and even recommended it to friends, with one of the poor sods buying it, just because I never tried any other company's paint range and so lived in blissful ignorance.

But, as I kept painting, I occasionally found that it lacked a color I wanted, so I supplemented. I found a nice ivory and a nice chocolate brown in Vallejo, along with some flesh paints, and as I used these I realized they were so much better than the Army Painter stuff. The AP paints took literally two to three times as many coats to get good coverage, thinned down to the same exact consistency, and they had a very gloss, plasticy finish to them compared to the matte finish that Vallejo paints have. I felt pretty sheepish after realizing that, and eventually ended up buying into another paint range after messing around for a bit.

tl;dr; they have poor coverage and a crappy finish to them. They're better than craft store paints, but not as good as Vallejo / GW / P3. However, their washes are actually downright excellent, so at least that's good.

I'm not a fan of the new GW drybrushes, does anyone make them like the small drybrush before?

I was just the first thing that came to my mind when i thought about a link to a drybrush.

Army Painter and Vallejo also sell brushes, maybe they have what you want. I have one made by vallejo and i think its fine, but i have no idea whats wrong with the "new" GW ones so idk.

If you're sending someone to the art or hobby store for brushes, he might as well get some sort of flat shader for drybrushing instead of ordering Cidatel shit seperately.

the new ones are square and flat. The old one with the blue bit at the end had a fine tip and was more like a short normal brush that was a bit firmer

The old Bretonnian men at arms are some of my all time favourite models, especially the spearmen. Lucky you!

Keep in mind they updated and expanded their range of paint quite some times.

I remember when army painter had like 20 different paints. Now they have like 60 i think.

I use alot of Vallejo, and some of their paint is great. I love their Game color "extra opaque" stuff.
Some other paints (for example the "German Camo Dark Green" from the model color range) is like you describe: poor coverage. It takes at least 2 coats to cover.

About your starter sets.. i think all companies do them.. GW has starter sets, vallejo too. For example (ignore the store, just some random result from google)

lukestoystore.com/Vallejo-Paint-Starter-Set-of-16-Bottles_p_105.html

They also have huge sets with their whole range

Been trying my hand at sculpting. Working on some Darkest Dungeon minis atm.

The Necromancer is still wip in regards of painting, just got done basecoating and stuff. I know the proportions are a bit wonky and the paintjob needs work but its my first sculpt. Any cc?