WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

Very similar to my friend's knight base we made for him when we split IK Renegade.

It works, do a roads under the other foot, so a rhino's width of no sand and paint a central reservation marking.

dope as fuck, user!
really wish I had a KD mini, they are so damm detailed.

I was thinking the big square bits were the road, or some raised catwalk at least.

From churches

boooo

My first ever stuff arrives tomorrow (most likely), scared as fuck. I have 0 experience so I'm afraid I'll fuck it up.

Also, about how long does it take for the spray primer to dry? And how long for the base paint? Then the wash? I need to know how long to leave them for.

>scared of small plastic soldiers
I have bad news for you, user
That's the hobby

>Also, about how long does it take for the spray primer to dry?

Varies with temp, humidity and thickness

>And how long for the base paint?

as above

>Then the wash?

as above

>I need to know how long to leave them for.
If you wait an hour and it doesn't look wet you'll be safe

They are more the floor of a building / courtyard.

Spray primer dries to the touch within 30 minutes. I'd leave it to cure for a few hours at least before painting on top of it.

Acrylic paints dry pretty fast. You can usually add another layer within 10 minutes.

Washes take a bit longer to dry depending on ow heavy you went. I'd give it an hour.

I suggest you take time to prep your models well, get them all ready to paint, then do it assembly line style. By the time you apply one color to all your models, the first ones will be dry and you can move on to the next color.

do as I did when I first started collecting and, in fact, still do

leave 'em grey
don't paint them
clear grey is better than fucked-up paintjob
paintjob can be either good or bad, put grey is faultless. yes, it is no good, but it is no bad either.

It all depends on the brands and how much you apply. Army Painter spray dries within a few minutes, so say 30 minutes to an hour to be sure before you can start painting.

Base paints should be dry within 30 minutes at the most. Washes depends a lot, mainly how much you apply. It could be ten minutes or an hour. But you will be able to tell when it's dry by looking at it most of the time.

I bet you leave the moldlines and sprue bits on them, too.

Forgot to mention, you should invest in a new blades for your xacto knife, a pair of micro flush cutters, and some basic files. Use toothpicks to apply the glue you're using so you have more control and dont end up with glue running all over the detailed bits.

no sprue bits, no, that's dirty
don't care about moldlines though

I wish I could not care. I've spent most of my free time the last 4 days scraping mold lines.

wow, your life is miserably
my minis are fabulous with their moldlines

>don't care about moldlines though

I just want what best for my little genestealing children.

If you put half the effort into your army as you do defending your sloth on the internet they'd be done by now.

Not an option, I want them painted.
I'll never get better if I don't even try.

So guys, should I leave the primer for one night, then the base paint for an hour and then a second coat if it needs it? They're all citadel stuff if that helps.

oh I put plenty of effort enough. I assemble and convert new minis or make stuff out of leftover bits. moving forward is important. going back is only worth it when I improve an old conversion with new bits or disassemble a crappy old kitbash to salvage the bits

and that's a work that is never ever done, not until mini market completely dies out

How'd I do?

Overnight should be more than enough. When applying bases and layers make sure you thin them out sufficiently and it wont take nearly an hour for it to dry to touch, but if you have the time to wait it wont hurt anything.

After priming, I'd leave them for a few hours. For paint brushing, 10-15min is enough, you'll see it on the mini though.

Also, what did you order user?

Start collecting stormcast eternals + paints/tools/brushes.

One Imperial Knight is too much.
Nearly 300cm of edge highlights, just end my life senpai

look at full-painted Titans and quit your whining

Not bad, but seems a little flat. You could probably benefit from a final highlight. Are the glossy parts near the horns and face because a wash wasn't dry yet?

Fabric with PVA is genius, that should give some nice texture. Searching shows plasticard is polystyrene, seems good as long as I don't do something dumb like letting it degrade to styrene.

The airdry itself cracking after a knock or during drying is the major concern, but with combining materials, the paper might work as a backbone. Maybe the airdry can fill gaps and cover seams. Thank you user, I'm back to the experiment board, time to try making paperclay out of some crayola clay laying around.

Good call with gloves, sadly it's mostly carcinogens and inhalants I'm scared of. Cancer once is bad enough, especially with the neural effects chemo can have. I don't want it again.

WIP.

The wash is oil paint, so I will clean up the messy bits with some mineral spirit. Get those lines nice and crisp.

Other than that, just need to do shoulder pads, decals, and weathering.

What did you order user?

Don't forget, we are here for you if you struggle with some things.

This

Looking crisp. Airbrushed, I suppose?

9/10
Lose one mark for not having a tiny church.

I'm good with a 9.

If I could suggest anything it would be to add rubble where the walkway is broken and around the beams.

Has any of you guys experience with the fit of the old metal shoulder pads?

I found 15 ancient shoulder pads in my stash but when i was about to dry-fit them on some marines i noticed that they are to small, or the shoulders to big. Was that always the case?

Or is that an issue with newer generations of Space Marines? (I think i bought these metal bits in 2nd or 3rd edition, so the minis could be different in size these days)

Thanks. I was planning to do that. That picture was just dryfitting where I wanted the pieces to be, I've begun actually assembling the base now.

Show me how you drybrush without getting wet paint all over. There doesn't seem to be a point between "no paint on my brush" and "still liquid" for me.

Please.

Could you explain what you mean by using spirits to clean up the messy bits?

use a paper towel, not a palette

the paper towel will absorb some of the moisture

qtip with alcohol.

>2nd or 3rd edition
They're probably not made for modern Space Marine models then.

It means he performs a ritual, summoning the Spirits of Hse'fhf to clean up the paint that's spilled onto the clean surfaces. Many virgins are needed. Per model.

Oil paint can still be manipulated long after it has dried (days even) using thinner (artist grade white spirit).

Just put a tiny bit of thinner on the brush and wipe away the bits you want to clean up.

Basically this.
Keep in mind that if you wipe or rub to much you will rub off your paint underneath it with the white spirit.
To prevent that its recommended to seal the mini with gloss (!) varnish before doing anything involving enamel washes and once thats all done applying a matte varnish to get the shine away.
It can be done without, but its risky.

2nd edition marines had different shoulders.
Metal pads were always smaller though. Even on the 2nd edition marines.
Only got more obvious from then on.

Maybe you can work around it, by shaving a bit of the plastic shoulder off, and if necessary hide the asymmetry behind a purity seal or something like that.

Interesting, thanks.

Nah, I've never had any problem working with white spirit on unvarnished acrylic paint.

As i said, it can happen if you rub around with that stuff to much. Most likely not from removing a little bit of wash with a brush, but personally i'm rather on the save side. I use it for weathering stuff mostly though, so i rub around a bit more with q-tips.

Here is a tutorial if you want more details on this:
youtube.com/watch?v=SlzQhDt4TNM

Its pretty simple actually.

Thanks. I'll scratch away a bit of the shoulder part then. Its will be invisible anyway.

I haven't postet anything big since crossing the 1000 point mark on my army, so here's my next big thing: 70 zombies done and done. Only took me a few days, i think i'm getting the hang of this speed painting thing.

It'll look good enough with some sand on it. I'm honestly suprise i didn't see more meme-spewing trolls come out of the woodwork posting churches.

I'm with you user, all the way. Big projects are always the worst projects, but by going all the way we make the tabletop a better place.

Looks damn near perfect already user. Weathering will make these guys look downright excellent!

If you were going for a look of abject horror, good job

Got around to doing the slaughter priest from white dwarf. really like how valhallan blizzard works right out of the pot.

I don't have a palette, will an old plate work?
Or do I have to go out and buy one?

I use blister packs. Use whatever works for you.

Get a piece of top laminated tile

>my bretonnian paladin on foot arrived
Oh baby. I love the smell of paint stripper in the afternoon.

fullborerminiatures.com/articles/wetpalette.html

nah mate you have to go out and buy a plate that says palette on it

>really like how valhallan blizzard works right out of the pot.

The zombies look bloody great! I'm jealous of your painting speed.
I'm the user working on the Castigator, and it's the largest model I've ever painted, so it's a new experience for me.

Not whining, just see above. I'm halfway through the highlights now. Time consuming but absolutely worth it.

On a related note, I'm unsure how to base it. I've got some spare Knight bitz from a friend and I'm scratchbuilding a small church, but what does /wip/ think makes a large base look really good?

Larger bases let you tell a bigger piece of the story, as they say. It should be based to match the rest of the army it'll be deployed with, but incorporate larger elements of that theme. Like if you're doing a forest theme, putting a fallen tree across the base might look cool. Or if you're doing a city, put a part of a house on there, or whatever.

>not following duncan's advice and drybrushing the metal areas

Come on man, it's one of the few situations where it works well and it's so much faster.

Put one of these at the base instead of a church

I don't get the churches meme. Where did it come from?

Hmm, should I do this?
Is it easier to clean after you're done?
I have the stuff needed.

Does the paint go through the paper?

it doesn't even look like a church. did you even try?

The paint doesn't go through the wax paper, but the water goes through the wax paper to the paint.

Looks good.

well... at one point KnightAnon posted a gorgeous Knight with a snow base with some stone scenery on it. One part of it (the railings from an Imperial City terrain sprue) looked a bit like a tiny church.
When KnightAnon was pointed this out he sort of freaked out I think, which cemented this as a TG meme of sorts.

Paint doesn't go through paper, but water from beneath it does, thus preventing your colors from drying out. Also, easier to clean up.

you must be new

I see. Thanks!

Not really, but I don't look at every thread and I don't go onto Veeky Forums every day, so I miss some maymay threads. I've seen the churches meme for a while now, but never got around to finding out why everyone keeps saying to add churches.

Don't confuse ChurchAnon with KnightAnon over at /hhg/. ChurchAnon can paint, KnightAnon can not.

working on some long neglected orks and grots. Got some Space Wolf and Blood Angels themed grots (I just haven't put the fetishes and medals on them) and some Bad Moons with yellow camo done on parts of them, though it may be hard to see in the pic.

whoops then I forgot the pic

My mistake, I thought they were the same user.
Don't follow the discussions at HHG too closely, just look out for some good bits.

Thanks for the input
The glossy parts are from coating it in Future then coating it in matte varnish. It's not totally flat like the paints are but necessary to keep the paint on. Here's what it looked like before varnishing. A lot of what looks like glossiness on the body in that pic is actually from the highlight pass I did.

>>I told you about super glue.
>>I WARNED you, dog
Woke up this morning and found this happened overnight to my canopy. What should I do? Suicide?

Might just have to sacrifice your interior and paint them a shiny black.

paint black over the white. make it oil and dirt.

I don't think there's any real way to magically fix frosting after the fact.

If the frosting is on the outside, you could try polishing it off of the plastic with a tiny bit of acetone on a q-tip. Acetone will fuck with the plastic, but only if you leave it for too long. Or try with non-acetone nail-polish remover if you want to be safer, if less effective.

Also why didn't you use plastic glue?

There is a way to fix the frosting, but you'll need to be careful.

You can remove the frosting effect by gently wiping it with acetone and a soft cloth.

The downside here is that acetone eats polystyrene plastic (ie. everything that's not canopy), as well as the paint.
So if you can remove the canopy from the model and then try the fix, if it's on the model you risk damaging the plastic.
You can glue it back using acrylic glue or White Glue / PVA.

As for the source of this info: Warsenal Pro-Tips flyer thingy included with their orders, so I assume it's legit.

>Also why didn't you use plastic glue?
Doesn't work on clear acrylic plastic, that's not styrene plastic, so plastic glue won't work.

oh also also;

DON'T DO ANYTHING ON THE MODEL UNTIL TESTING IT ON SPARE GARBAGE SPRUE PLASTIC FIRST. GET SOME SUPER GLUE. FROST UP SOME SPRUE. THEN TRY VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING IT OFF.

BECAUSE YOU DO NOT WANT TO FUCK UP AN EXPENSIVE MODEL BASED ON INTERNET ADVICE

For real? And acetone doesn't eat it as much as the standard polystyrene? Interesting.

I guess haven't worked with a clear canopy in ages. Last time I did was a model F-14 back in the 90's, and I didn't know shit about modelling back then.

well, it's what Warsenal recommends for their laser cut acrylic, so I think it indeed does't harm it.

Styrene is probably the softest type of hard plastic, clear acrylic is pretty tough in comparison.

One other way of protecting the canopy would be dipping it in Future Floor Polish (Pledge these days), a thin coat of floor way will keep it much better than almost anything else you can put on it.

Getting one half of my Tau Kill-team done. Other half is 11 Fire Warriors, gonna prime them White after soaking.

How do you folks figure i should go about painting a DDPAT on these lads?

I'm really really really enjoying the work on bases. I need to get some clear resin and crushed glass to pimp them out further.

what's the best way to strip plastic and metal minis of paint and glue? It's just regular superglue, I've heard that acetone works but softens plastic and that brake fluid works but just eats the plastic, so both of those sound ideal for metal but I have no solution for cleaning the plastic that makes up 2/3rds of the minis I own.